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Two Amigos to Terlingua

GSer

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Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
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Location
Texas
First Name
Robert
Many years ago I heard about a mountain bike race in Lajitas, Texas, a semi-ghost town just outside of Big Bend National Park. The race was at the end of February
and watching it seemed like a good reason to make the 600 mile ride out there. Since then it has become a yearly ride for me, and
even though my original riding partners have changed, it is now usually the same group of guys that ride out there with me.

Temperatures throughout the 800,000 acre park vary greatly, and the weather there in February is always unpredictable. A couple of
years ago it was 85 degrees on the ride out there, but when we woke up in our tents the next morning it was 32 degrees.

The weather was comfortable and stable during last February’s ride, and I finally decided that I would have to make the trip out there more than once a year.

It turned out that two of my GS riding friends, Joseph (TinStar) and Chris also wanted to ride out there, so we made plans to go on October 25-28.
Unfortunately, Chris found out at the last minute that work commitments just wouldn’t allow him to go. But we will drag him away from work on our next ride.

Since I was going to work ½ a day on Wednesday the 24th and then head to Joseph’s house in the Hill Country I decided that it would be easier fighting
the traffic in my truck, so I trailered my GS the four hours to his house.

(these photos were taken by both me and Joseph)

:thumb: UPDATE: TinStar's (Joseph's) report on this trip can be found here: http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22333

After packing up the bikes on Wednesday evening, we were ready to roll.

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After some breakfast tacos, our wheels were rolling early Thursday morning. The closer we got to Big Bend, the less populated
the land became and it was easy to become mesmerized by the humming of the bike and the many miles of open road.

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One of my favorite rest stops is the overlook at the Pecos River, near Langtry, TX. This is where the land really opens up and you can stare
into the distance and even see parts of Mexico.

The view of the Pecos River bridge from the overlook.
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At the end of the cliff you can barely see where the Pecos runs into the Rio Grande. On the other side of the Rio Grande is Mexico.
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Joseph at the overlook.
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Me at the overlook.
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After a relaxing break at the overlook, we took off again and headed to the next gas stop in the desolate town of Sanderson.
Since we were going to be camping at our friend Roger’s place near Terlingua I called him to let him know that we would be there in a couple of hours.

Getting gas and calling Roger from Sanderson
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The motel across from the gas station in Sanderson.
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When we arrived at the park we had to take the customary photos at the entrance sign. A man and woman pulled up after us, so I took their
picture and they took ours. We must have looked like a couple of aliens to them. "Greetings earth people. We are here for your pulled-pork sandwiches."

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Paying the park entrance fee.
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When we rolled into Roger’s place he was there, so we visited for a few minutes and then set up our tents. The view from Roger’s is
incredible, and I often found myself looking out towards the Chisos mountains and wondering about the animals, the people, and the history of the area.

After setting up camp we headed to a local restaurant/bar, ate dinner and drank a few Shiner Bocks. :eat2: The long day of riding
tired us out, so it was time to head back to the tents. After getting into my tent I found that the slope I was on made me roll off of
my sleeping pad. I guess it wasn’t a very good idea to setup my tent near a cliff. Oh well, I just put my riding jacket under the downhill
side of the pad and it held me in place.

Roger's fantastic place
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Joseph's tent in front, mine in the back.
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Roger looking out across his land
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The view of the sunset from Roger's place
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The next morning we were up before the sun and anxious to get breakfast at Kathy’s Kosmic Kowgirl Kafe. Kathy makes some fantastic
food in her small trailer, and sitting around the fire drinking coffee and eating a huge breakfast burrito is a great way to start the day.

The early morning moon going down
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Kathy, me and Roger
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Joseph sitting in the "dining room"
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Kathy and me visiting
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There isn't anything like sitting around a good campfire.
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This dog magically appears when Kathy starts cooking. But Kathy's food is too good to toss any to him. His name is "Brown Dog"
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Roger was busy on Friday, so Joseph and I decided to make a loop through the park. We would start out on the dirt Maverick Road and
stop at Luna’s Jacal, and then Santa Elena Canyon.

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...more later ... :pirate:
 
Great story and photos! Keeping an eye on this thread. I'll be down there around x-mas on a KLR250 to hit some off-road riding. Making notes of your route for consideration.
 
Robert,

Love the pics.

When you were out there did Roger mention to you that he was going to be the new organizer for the annual Ride the Rio event held in Big Bend each Feb? He has scheduled it for the last weekend in Feb 2008 (the weekend after the bike race).
 
Hi,

Yes, he did mention it. I definitely plan on being there, and hopefully on
a bike smaller than my GS. Roger let me ride his DR350 on the dirt roads near Terlingua and it was a nice change from the heavy GS. If I can't find the money or a bike, I'll just put knobbies on my R100GS and ride it.


Robert,

Love the pics.

When you were out there did Roger mention to you that he was going to be the new organizer for the annual Ride the Rio event held in Big Bend each Feb? He has scheduled it for the last weekend in Feb 2008 (the weekend after the bike race).
 
This rock and stick home, called Luna’s Jacal, was the home to Gilberto Luna and his family. He grew crops in the arid land,
and managed to remain peaceful with warring Comanche Indians and Mexicans. He raised a large family in this simple home,
and died in 1946 at the age of 108.

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After looking at the jacal we headed towards Santa Elena Canyon.
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The canyon was formed when a fault line changed the Rio Grande’s direction and caused it to cut through the cliff.
We wanted to take the short walking trail that goes into the canyon. When we parked our GS's we talked with a guy
on a Honda XR650L. After hearing how inadequate our GS's were compared to his XR, :moon: , we shared information
about some of the dirt road conditions.

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We grabbed our cameras, started walking across the sandy riverbed, and looked for the trail.
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I noticed rabbit and raccoon tracks in the mud, and then one track really got my attention. What the heck?
A godzilla raccoon?!? :eek2: I knelt down to get a closer look and realized that it was a child’s hand print. Whew…
I could then get rid of the thoughts of being attacked my a man eating freak coon.

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We followed the trail leading through the trees lining the river and started the climb up into the canyon. The trail dead-ends
after less than a mile, but we could hear a donkey braying farther up the canyon. I have no idea what it was doing up there.

The trail through the trees. Even though I no longer feared giant raccoons, it did look like a perfect place to get snagged by a cougar. :uhoh:
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Joseph heading up the canyon
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Looking back to where we started. That's the U.S. on the left, and Mexico on the right.
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This is where we could hear the invisible donkey
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Pricks
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More pricks
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After our short canyon exploration we got back on our bikes and continued our loop through the park.
We stopped at the Mule Ears Peak overlook and visited with two ladies from Rockdale, TX that were painting
Mule Ears and the nearby landscape. They were very friendly, and enthusiastic about their paintings.

Mule Ears Peak
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Nice lady #1
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Nice lady #2
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...next, River Road and the dirt... :rider:

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Thanks for sharing. Big Bend and the adjoining area is one of my favorite places to be.
 
Little wild donkeys inhabit the canyon. Saw my first ones canoeing the canyon back in 1972.

Randy
 
Saturday was our busiest day of riding. After breakfast at Kathy’s (it’s the law) we decided to ride twisty
Ranch Road 170 north towards Presidio. It is a fantastic road with many curves, hills, and great views.
We stopped at the small overlook on top of one of the larger hills. At the top of the hill there is a sign informing us
of the hill. Uh, thanks, we noticed. :confused:

We walked/crawled to a rock outcropping and took a few pictures.

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Roger knows of an easy to miss, sandy road that leads to an abandoned movie set. I don’t remember
the name of the movie, but the rock formations there are interesting, and much different from the other rocks in the area.

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When the twisty road started to straighten out we turned around and headed back to Terlingua.
Roger suggested that he lead us on dirt county roads just outside of Terlingua. Thankfully, he offered
to let me ride his Suzuki DR350 because my R1150GS-Adventure would have been a handful in many of the
rough areas. After a quick trip to Study Butte for gas, we headed out. Roger rode his Kawasaki Sherpa 250,
I was on Roger's DR350 and Joseph rode his R1100GS like a pro rally rider. :flip:

We were busy keeping the bikes under control and therefore didn’t get many pictures of this area. Many miles
into the ride we came upon a creek crossing. There was water, and way too much mud to ride across.
But Roger found a way. There was a very small trail running parallel to the creek and it went to a rocky area
where we could cross. This wasn’t any trouble, but on the other side of the creek the trail was even smaller,
with deep sand. Roger went first and made it across. Joseph went next and he was nearly through it
when his GS sank in the powdery sand. With Joseph giving it gas and me and Roger pushing the GS was soon freed.
Here are a couple of pictures from one of our water breaks.

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After a long day of riding it was once again time to go to the Starlight Theatre for a few beers. :chug:

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We were in the mood for nachos, and we were stunned and terribly saddened when we were told that
they weren’t available. So, Joseph had chicken tacos and I had what was supposed to be a hamburger.

Even though it was a quick trip, we all had a great time. The Big Bend area is remote and harsh, and most people
either love it or hate it. I was hooked after my very first trip out there, and I’m always ready to go back. Our next
trip there will probably be in February and I’m already looking forward to it.

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Spirit should be charging folks for all the pics that get taken of him. A good time was had by all apppearently. :clap:
 
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