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Minimalist’s ride through Mexico.

I wonder how many times it has been asked what is the best "starter" or "beginner" bike on TWT. This thread is an effective sell for the Ninja and proves it can go about anywhere, anytime.

I think that Jeff has shown that it isn't just a "starter" bike since he already had the Nighthawk first (he did Big Bend on the NH last winter - another good story). The EX250 is just a good, general purpose, economical bike.
 
Jeff,

What's the deal with altitude? Did you take a timing light with you or is the Ninja one of those bikes where you can't adjust that yourself? On the Nighthawk you can do this.

Mike
 
SL350 - sponsors...that would be a hoot! A trip just to Mexico and only costing $550 pobably wouldn't draw much! Now around the world on a ninja 250, that would be sponsor worthy (espeically if done by some one with better picture taking and writing skills).

Mike - The timing was just fine, it was just lack of oxygen for combustion. While the ninja has plenty of power here at home, we are also at 500 feet above sea level.

Thanks so much for all the replies!!!
 
Day 6:

I was sad to be leaving Zacatecas after the 2 days; I could probably spend another 2 days and not get bored. Zacatecas was just the right size, had very friendly people, and not too many tourists.

I was headed for Guanajuato. It was only 180 miles or so direct, but I made it a bit longer. I went through Aguascalientes first, and got a bit lost. I was attempting to stay on the free “Mex 45” and had to ask for directions twice. Gas station attendants are usually pretty good about giving directions. Keep in mind that many will just tell you something for the sake of being helpful, even if it is wrong!

When getting gas in Mexico, they pump it for you. Normally they ask how much you want. I am not sure why you wouldn’t just fill it up, but they ask anyhow. They are normally friendly, and will chat it up with you if they are slow. They are pretty good about keeping gas from dripping outside the tank rim. The gas in Mexico was just as good as it is here. I used the regular stuff called “MAGNUM” without problems.

Roads continue to be very good (when not cobble stone!). Rail road tracks here can be quite uneven, and I recommend slowing way down for all of them!
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I was 10 miles out of Guanajuato I saw a sign for “Christo Rey”. I had read about this statue and figured I had time to go check it out. “Christo Rey” is “Christ the King” in English. It is on top of a 8,900 foot mountain, is 65 feet tall, and is said to be the geographical center of Mexico.

Little did I know that I was in for another 20 miles of cobblestone (each way)! Although bumpy and steep, the ride was extremely beautiful. I kept it at 15 to 25 MPH most of the way up and down.
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Underneath the statue was a small chapel. I noticed a few that crawled in on their knees. I found the statue inspiring and spent about an hour enjoying it and the views.

I stopped at one of the many eateries on the way down. It was a late afternoon lunch, and I was starving. Here, you pay a set price and just serve yourself. The cook will warm things up for you as you go as well. I had a stuffed pepper, a quesadilla, some more chicharon, and a few fried potato cake things. Dona Lupe really took care of me!
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The ride back down was just as bouncy. Man these rides on cobble stone make me need to pee frequently!
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I made it into Guanajuato, and proceeded to get EXTREEMLY LOST! Actually, lost is not the best word, as I didn’t really have a set destination. Since I have no reservations, I typically take a spin around a town, pick a decent looking hotel near the center and go for it. In Guanajuato, the streets are half underground. Taking in the sights from the road was not possible. I would surface, see a hotel, but have no idea how to get to it! My trial and error finally paid off, and I checked into Motel de las Embajadoras. It was the most expensive room of the trip at $32, but I was there!
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The first thing I did after checking in was run to the “XOXO” store to grab a few beers. They went down great after riding around in tunnels for the last hour!
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I rested up a bit, took a stroll around town that evening, and got a late dinner. Tomorrow was set aside for sight seeing in beautiful Guanajuato.
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Stay tuned for day 7 when I take in all the sights of Guanajato, and spend some time in here:
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Jeff,

This is some quality writing. Very funny on the getting lost quip. LMAO! :mrgreen:

Please don't come out of that barber shop wearing a Mohawk :eek2: But you've got us anticipating the worst :mrgreen:

On the timing wrt lack of oxygen. What I meant (I don't have a chart with me) is that you can set the timing so the oxygen starvation issue isn't a problem at your altitude. You would need to advance the timing. To do this on the fly you would need a timing light in your travel kit, and a small can of oil to replace whatever sputters out of the timing window. I know you can do this on your Nighthawk (I have a baby Nighthawk right now), but I am not sure if the newer bikes like the Ninja allow for this (I'm without knowledge on anything that is liquid cooled or has injectors). By the way, I'm always looking for a good big brother Nighthawk, so if you ever want to sell her give me a shout :)

Mike
 
DAY 7

Today I did some sight seeing in Guanajuato. I was feeling a bit lazy this morning, so I had breakfast and coffee about 30 feet from my room. You can find some pretty good French toast here in Mexico, as well as coffee when it is not the Nescafe.
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First I took a walk around so I could see everything in the daylight.
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This guy seemed quite happy, and who wouldn’t be if they had green shoes and a blue guitar?
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I visited the famous Callejon Del Besso (alley of the kiss). The legend is that a high class family lived on one side and common miner on the other. The two fell in love and would exchange kisses from the balconies. Now, if I was that close, I think I would have exchanged more than just a few kisses.
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I visited the market that was really quite tame compared to some others I have seen in Central America, but very interesting none the less. You can pickup almost anything here. I just got a few postcards for grandmas. Grandmas love getting postcards!
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Do you need any chicken feet…or, perhaps some sweaty meat???
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Next, I took a long hike out to the Museo de las Momias (mummy museum). The mummies are exhumed from the cemetery if surviving relatives can not pay the upkeep fees. In the soil here, it only takes 5 years to become preserved. Some bodies are cremated, while others are put on display here and around the world. Only 1% or 2% that are exhumed are display quality.

If you do not wish to see a picture of a mummy, please close your eyes and scroll down. I just took one, and maybe shouldn’t have. I think some may find this interesting as I did. If seeing one picture from the museum makes you come down and see it for yourself, then it was worth it.
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Equally bizarre, was a horror show exhibit connected to the museum. It had some large holograms, torture devices, and horrible looking chastity belt.
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It was taking the long walk back to el centro when I saw this.
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I stuck my head in and was coaxed in by the barber. I figured what was the worst that could happen!

I took a seat in this old school barber chair, and he asked how I wanted it. Confident in my Spanish I answered “Solo tress pulgas”. He looked at me like I was crazy. My mind raced over the sentence I just said. I had attempted to tell him “Only three inches”. I soon realized he has no idea what an inch was, I needed to use centimeters. Then I also realized that I had the Spanish word for inches terribly wrong. When I said “Solo tress pulgas”, I had asked for THREE FLEAS! To summarize Pulgas = fleas, Pulgadas = inches, don’t ask for things in inches in a country that uses the metric system!

We had a good laugh, and he went off to sharpen his scissors on the door step. He said “this will take lots of sharpening”.
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This is the best $2.50 haircut I have ever had! Ok, this is the only $2.50 haircut I have ever had, but a darn good one regardless! Here is the handsome devil in the hotel after a shower.
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I was starving after all of this activity! I headed back to the market for some grub. There were lots of venders. I tried to pick one with the pretty girls working, as well plenty of locals eating. The cooks and waitresses wave their menus and shout to bring in the crowds.
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This girl looked very sad, after they didn’t bring anyone in.
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I tried to cheer her up by going to her place, but they didn’t have what I was hungry for. I did get a smile out of her with my messy Spanish though! I wanted to try some Birria. Birria is chili seasoned lamb that is smoked then steamed and served in a broth. I found a girl that had some, and it was delicious!
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After lunch I found lots of activity in the plaza. There was a bike show going on today. These young guys were doing some crazy jumps on their regular bmx style bikes. These bikes didn’t look suitable this type of use, but they were doing it. Also, the riders wore minimal safety equipment!
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This young gal was in love with one, or maybe all, of the jumpers. She was gushing over all the boys. It was funny to watch her try to catch the jumper’s eyes.
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The day was coming to an end quickly. I took the funicular (incline railway) up to the monumento a el Pipila for the sunset. The views were fantastic!
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I had some street tacos at the top, took the funicular back down, and saw some music in the plaza.
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It was a great day in Mexico! I finished it off with a beer called Noche Bueno before bed. This beer is high in alcohol content, and made for a good night’s sleep.
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Stay tuned for day 8 when I check out a retired gringo’s dream town.
 
Day 8.

After being off the bike for a day, I was ready to ride! My destination was San Miguel de Allende. Sad to leave Guanajuato, I took one last stroll around that morning. I will be back to Guanajuato, hopefully soon.

A few local bikes:
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Nice paint job:
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Some local scenery…nice shoes too…
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I went to San Miguel via Dolores Hidalgo. The ride was only 100 miles, and took under 2.5 hours. It was nice to finally be hitting some twisties that weren’t cobble stone! I didn’t get any pictures of the ride, as I was having too much fun.

I arrived in San Miguel before lunch, and parked at the plaza. I walked into the shade of the park to get my bearings and figure out the hotel for the night. There were TONS of gringos here! Most were older, but some younger folks too. A few came to talk to me, as I was the “new gringo in town”. San Miguel is a retirement hot spot due to the nice climate and charming streets.
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Real Estate offices are on every corner. I heard stories of retirees coming down for a week, buying a place, and never leaving. Anyone have a spare half mill to spend on a second home???
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Perhaps this one will fit your budget better?
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I have dreamed of retiring early and moving south of the border. I have crazy ideas of staring a free trade coffee program, or other humanitarian project to give back and fill my time. I am in love with Guatemala, but Mexico isn’t half bad. While San Miguel is not my dream retirement location, it was a very pleasant place to spend the day.

Across the way was the police office. They had some old and new transportation out front.
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I found accommodation at Parador de San Sebastian for $25. The court yard was nice, and the room very clean. They also had a secure parking garage.
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It was time to sight see. The church was amazing. The designer based the pinnacles off of a postcard of a Belgian church. He instructed builders by scratching plans in the sand with a stick.
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It was a Sunday. Many of the locals were out for a stroll, and relaxing in the plaza.
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Night came and there were a few parades in the town. Dia de Guadalupe was only a few days away.
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I got an elote (my stomach and intestines paid for this one dearly), and sat back and admired the illuminated church.
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I toped off the evening in a popular gringo bar. Charles was visiting from Canada. He said the choice of shoveling snow or coming down here for a few months was an easy one. Despite our age difference we had lots in common. He was an avid traveler, and we had been to many of the same countries. He owns few seasonal small businesses, as do I. We chatted over quite a few beers and closed the place down around 11 PM.
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Stay tuned for day 9 when I head north, work on my chicken strips, and see some ruins.

Thanks for all the comments and reading along!!!
 
The people pics are great! All really natural looking instead of posed.
 
Day 9.

Today was all about the ride!!! I left San Miguel de Allende early. I had no set destination or plans today. I was heading north on Mex 120 for the twisties and side trips.

After a quick 60 miles on the toll road, I was at the exit for Mex 120. The sign showed Jalpan to be only 80 miles away. The side trip to San Joaquin would add a few to that. With the mountains in view, I was excited about the day of riding.
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Mex 120 started getting curvy after I passed Tequispuiapan. By the time I got to the turn off for San Joaquin the tires were plenty warm. The stretch of pavement from Mex 120 to San Joaquin was amazing. The scenery and road condition were fantastic

I was thrilled with both Ninja’s performance, and my own riding performance. I can not begin to describe how fun this little Ninja 250 is on the twisty stuff. The little sewing machine motor happily hummed away at 9 K RPMs and leaned almost effortlessly in and out of the turns. It is a great feeling, using the bike to its full potential.

There were very few turn offs for pictures, but I did get a few.
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The main reason for the side trip to San Joaquin was the ruins. After the ride up there, I would say the road is reason enough.

I passed through the town and down a rough dirt road to the archaeological site of Ranas. It is from the 8th century and has several ball courts and pyramids.

I always lock up my gear to the bike when day tripping. The cable also came in handy when there was no indoor parking at hotels. I locked the frame to a telephone pole a few nights.
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Ranas:
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After Ranas, it was getting past 12PM. I was only 100 miles from Jalpan, and figured I would be there in no time. On these roads, you can forget the 50 MPH average that you get in the states when touring around. With all the fun curves, picture taking, stopping for a coke, and general lollygagging around it took me close to 5 hours to make it to Jalpan.

It was one AUESOM RIDE!!!!! Mex 120 climbs to 8000 feet before descending 6000 feet to Jalpan. My “Lonely Planet” guide states that after the peak there are 860 turns to get into Jalpan. This doesn’t count the number of turns it took to get up there on the other side!!!

This sign translates to “Door to the sky”.
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I rolled into Jalpan at dusk. I went to the square, and got a room at Hotel Mision del Carmen. The lady behind the desk was about as helpful as a rock.

In the lobby there was a small Christmas tree that was playing Christmas songs in a loud annoying shrill of cheep music box tones. The reception lady must have become brain dead from sitting there listening to this thing whine on all season. She seemed almost like a zombie. I had to struggle to get her attention. Once I had the room it took three trips back to the desk to get better directions how to find the room. Her description of where to park was terrible at best. I blame the signing tree. (The hotel was in two buildings where the floors didn’t line up making floors and half floors. It was also a maze of courtyards and swimming pools).

After the checking in ordeal, I realized I had not eaten breakfast or lunch! I was really having too much fun to eat today! I consulted the Lonely Planet, and went to the “best place in town”.

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While lying in bed that night, my body felt a sensation of movement of the bike in turns. It was the same sensation as “sea legs” after you have been on a boat for a few days. I smiled to myself and sleep came fast.

Stay tuned for day 10 when I continue heading north, and check out some crazy concrete stuff.
 
GREAT posting. Great riding. I love to ride in Mx. Hope you took time to see Real de Catorce, outside Matauala, not far from Saltillo. Looking forward to your posts.
 
It sure looks like you're having a great time! Hats off to you for having the gumption to travel (follow your dreams)alone. I hear seeing Christmas in Mexico is fantastic! Keep the posts coming...someday I GOTTA learn how to post pictures.
 
Outstanding report, waiting for the latest installment!
BTW, it seems that Mexico is not the only one big (pun intended) on Nescafe...
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Noche Buena also means Christmas Eve

They produce this beer only in December.

By the way, I have seen you tried several brands of beers, which have you liked best?:chug:
 
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