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Texas Fort Runs I: Fort Richardson

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Exit. Stage West.
Fast forward...........
..... I was so hungry by the early evening; my breakfast had long been burned up and then some. The image of Double J's cobbler danced in my eyes when they weren't crossed from riding into a strong southerly wind. Pulling into their gravel parking lot, I couldn't get off the bike fast enough and muttered to the hostess as I walked by for a table near the window, "Iced tea and don't bother with a menu."

"First, do you have cobbler today?"
"One slice of peach and some blackberry."
"Excellent!!"

I ordered an Old Fashioned Hamburger with all the fixings minus onions. They actually serve green lettuce, not the white water-filled kind. My mouthfuls were so big I must have looked like a starving squirrel with stuffed cheeks.

A deep plate of hot blackberry cobbler and two scoops of vanilla ice cream was on the table just as I wiped my mouth from the last mouthful of delicious burger. It was goooood.

I'm stuffed. I'm surprised I didn't fall off the bike on the ride home. I missed two turns according to my GPS (maybe it needs airhorns, too) and any bumps caused me to wince. I take shallow breaths. I must nap.

Then I'll start at the beginning.
 
Plans for the morning thwarted by a holiday weekend, I turned to Plan B......

I began what I have wanted to do since I first moved to Texas ten years ago: visit the forts and learn the history of this state. Now that first desire has grown to an expanded endeavor; a personal quest of the Trail of Tears and an understanding of the clash of two cultures. It began with my visit last year to a few historical places along the Trail traveled by the Cherokee in Arkansas. Until I can return to Tennessee and Arkansas, the presence and history of Cherokees in Texas have captivated my attention. Texas has its own Trails of Tears.

To fully understand the historical course of events, I have to know both sides of the battle lines. Even within the Indian tribes themselves, for they battled each other, too. I've found that trying to stay impartial to either side is nearly impossible, but also, as in any course of events in history, the realization is that it has been repeated elsewhere around the world. The actors have different names, languages, and skin colors. The atrocities committed by both sides of the Indian and 'white man' battles were similar. And echoed throughout the world during the history of our civilization.

For information, one can read books. And even those can be deceiving or misrepresenting. Going to the original sources for facts and personal perspectives is the best approach. One of those sources is the land itself upon which historical events occurred. It has its own language and speaks in a way many are deaf to.

This is one of the many reasons I ride a bike; to visit and experience these places. Other than walking, it is the closest way for me to realize that. In essence it is my horse, my war pony, my time machine. Considering many of our modern roads were once military, trading, or war paths and trails, I'm on my own scouting and exploring party.

This is the first stop in my Texas Forts visits. In essence, they too are on the Trails of Tears. Tears of whites and Indians alike.

Fort Richardson, Jacksboro, Texas.
N 33°12’22.8”
W098°09’24.9”

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A raid by Noconi Comanche Indians* on several settler families in Parker, Palo Pinto and southern Jack Counties set in motion a wave of events that would rapidly change the futures of both whites and Indians alike. The 1860 slaying of mostly women and children enraged legislators in Austin leading to indiscriminate retaliation on all Indians by Sam Houston’s armies.

Ordinarily enemies, the Kiowa Indians collaborated with the Comanche and scaled up attacks on settler’s farms and Texas and Federal army posts. With increasing emigration by white settlers into western territory, the federal government established a line of forts along the ever-growing line of western expansion to protect settlers and state investments. The US army built a system of forts in Indian country: Concho, Griffin, Richardson in Texas, and Fort Sill in officially sanctioned Indian Territory, which is now Oklahoma.

While camped on the present-day square in Jacksboro in January, 1867, Major Starr sent men 26 miles north to Buffalo Springs to establish Fort Richardson. Because of a lack of timber and potable water, and after many encounters with Indian bands raiding to steal horses in only a few months, the army decided to move back to the Jacksboro area and establish Fort Richardson on the banks of Lost Creek. They also decided to build a sister fort on the Clear Fork of the Brazos River: Fort Griffin.

Construction of the fort began on 300 acres rented from the then current owner of the survey. Estimated at a cost of $800,000, it was the last army outpost in north Texas along the military road to Fort Sill, and the largest Army post in 1872, listing 666 officers and men. Of the original 55 buildings the hospital cost $150,000 to build. It was the largest building in the Texas fort system and stands fully restored today.

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Although the fort was decommissioned in 1878 after the area was secured and troops were ordered to Fort Griffin, it was reused several times after that for various purposes. Meanwhile, the original landowner allowed the buildings to fall into disrepair. Buildings were dismantled and used or moved elsewhere, even incorporated into construction of other buildings in the growing town of Jacksboro.

In 1936 the Texas Centennial Commission bought the 41 acres upon which the central area of the fort resided and several buildings still stood. In 1963 the National Parks Service declared the fort a National Historic Landmark. The Texas Parks and Wildlife Department assumed operations of the fort five years later.

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On the grounds of the park and its immediate surroundings are historical remnants of the area spanning nearly two centuries. In addition to the fort are reminders and remnants of growth that occurred in nearly all communities: the growth and demise of the railroad era, remains of technology and buildings that nurtured that growth, and the natural succession of environment as people moved through and established themselves.

It’s living history.

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More photos and commentary coming.........

* The Noconi Comanches were known as the fiercest clan of the fiercest Indian tribe of all the North American Indians. Ironically, the chief of that tribe, Nocona, was the husband of a famous white woman, Cynthia Ann Parker. Captured as a child and rather than returned for ransom, she was adopted into the tribe and raised as a Comanche. Nocona eventually took her as his only wife (chiefs usually had more than one wife) and they had three children. Their son, Quanah Parker, become a formidable and important chief of the Comanche. He was also their last great chief.

During the Battle of Pease River, Cynthia and her baby daughter were recaptured and returned to white society. After 25 years of living with the Comanche she had lost all connection with white society and resented her capture. After several years and attempts of escape, she died still mourning the loss of her children, husband and his people.

Nocona’s band was nearly decimated at the Battle of Pease River and he lived a few more years embittered and grief-stricken at the loss of his wife and daughter. Quahnah claims he died four years later of wounds inflicted in a skirmish with the Apache and a broken heart.
 
man, this is great! an excellent ride report AND a history lesson all in one!! how often are you going to visit these forts? i will look forward to each installment and post as many pics as you can...thanks for sharing.
 
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Part Two: Kiowas are trouble.


Because of a late start I chose the most direct route north to Jacksboro on Hwy 199. After gassing up in Azle, the only other stop was at McDonald’s in Springtown to fill my thermos full of coffee. The last of the coffee in my house was consumed the day before and I truly don’t function well without it. I had to squelch the massive headache from coffee withdrawal as soon as possible.

Traffic north of Springtown was almost non-existent. As I rode north over rolling hills and approaching short mesas in the distance, I felt as though I was alone on a fast horse traveling the plains. While alone with the thoughts in my head, I wondered if Hwy 199 was once a military road or Indian trail. Later I learned that Hwy’s 380 to Graham and 281 to Mineral Wells were military roads. Butterfield’s Overland stagecoach trail –a 2,800-mile route across the US linking Missouri and California- connected most of the Texas forts, including Fort Richardson and nearby Fort Belknap via present day Hwy 380 [1].

Just south of downtown Jacksboro, the GPS alerted me by a green area on the map that I was approaching the state park. Turning onto the park road the park headquarters was the recognizable brown wooden building seen at most Texas parks. Actually, the headquarters at most of the Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas and Tennessee state parks are similar: plain, simple, brown wooden buildings (there are notable exceptions, of course).

While inside paying my three-dollar fee for a day pass, the friendly staff alerted me that the buildings would be closed and locked at 12:30 pm for a local Easter Egg Hunt. Since it was already near noon-time, I felt compelled to hurry on my way to the historical site.

The park road runs very close to the historical site so it was easy to find. Pulling in the parking lot, I parked the bike in a front spot in between a truck and a SUV. A few people milled around the grounds, mostly staff preparing for the Easter activity. I fished the camera out of the sidebag and walked towards the closest building.

The interpretive center is a reproduction of an officers’ barracks and contains displays relating the history of the fort. Luckily it was open so I walked in and obtained a guide to the park and historical grounds. Everyone was busy so I decided to guide myself rather than try to recruit a staff guide. Before I left the building I quickly glanced at the exhibits on one end wall. There were photographs of several Kiowa chiefs that were involved in a decisive battle that was the Fort’s most famous Indian excursion.

In May of 1871 three Kiowa chiefs led 100 or more warriors on a raid, later called the Salt Creek Massacre, attacking a wagon train carrying corn contracted by the government to feed the armies. On a stretch of road called the Salt Creek Prairie, from Jacksboro to Graham, seven of the twelve teamsters were killed. In response to the outrage of the local settlers and army personnel General Sherman ordered Colonel McKenzie, whom was stationed at Fort Richardson, to pursue the Kiowas with companies of soldiers from his fort and nearby Fort Griffin.

The Kiowa chiefs –Santanta, Big Tree, and Satank- rode to Fort Sill in Indian Territory (Oklahoma) where Santanta boasted about his part in the raid. The three chiefs were turned over to General Sherman who ordered that they be returned to Fort Richardson to stand trial for the murders. (Satank was killed during an escape attempt enroute to Jacksboro.) The trial was a celebrated event because it was the first time Indians were forced to be tried in civil court. The jury convicted the two Kiowa chiefs and sentenced them to hang [2].

Chief Santanta.
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Chief Big Tree.
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Two period costumes are on display in the center, both women’s dresses. Looking at them, I couldn’t imagine wearing those things, not even back then. I’d be wearing pants and more practical clothes that allowed me to ride horses, run and do whatever I normally do. I’d probably be branded a weirdo and renegade. As long as I could shoot and ride a fast horse, I wouldn’t care.

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I wanted to get to the other buildings before they were closed and doors locked, so I left the building before browsing the remainder of the exhibits. My first destination was the most prominent building on the grounds, the hospital.

To be continued.........

[1] This year marks the sesquicentennial of the Butterfield Overland trail in Texas. Several celebrations and events are scheduled at various points around Texas. I’m very tempted to attend the event in Fort Davis, August 30th.

[2] Because of uneasy political climate between all the Indian tribes and Texas factions, Santanta and Big Tree were escorted to the state penitentiary in Hunstville. Their death sentence was commuted. In later years, Santana committed suicide by jumping out of a building window after he was re-arrested and returned to Huntsville.
 
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Part Three: The Post Hospital

“…your chances of surviving on the frontier were better going on an Indian campaign than having to go into the hospital.” [1]


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Upon reaching the hospital building I discovered, much to my dismay, that the doors were locked. In lieu of access I walked around the building peeping in the windows and took some photos through the glass as well as the building itself.

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(I walked around the grounds and on the paths along Lost Creek for an hour or so before heading back to my bike. On the way I was told by a park staff that the buildings would be reopened after the children had gathered their Easter eggs and departed. So I peeled off the rest of my gear under which I was profusely sweating, and sat on a rock while finishing off my coffee and watching the foray. I met up with the staff I had spoken to before and I had my own personal guided tour. I don’t recall his name –I have Name Amnesia-, but he was a walking encyclopedia of the fort, and all the Texas forts. Not satisfied with general media accounts, he has researched the history of the fort in original documents –diaries, journals, personal statements and letters, federal and state documents, etc. He related information that few are probably privy to. I am grateful and indebted to his guidance and sharing. So basically, I visited some of the landmarks twice; first on my own, later with his narrative. For purposes in my story, I will intermix his information in with my retelling of my visit to avoid redundancies and confusion.)

I love old Texas architecture. An integral feature of both old southwest and northeast homes is the covered porches. Because I’m an outdoors person, I cherish extended living spaces of homes into the outdoors. Decks, porches, extensive windows….any way to extend the view and presence of the outside into the inside and vice versa. The design of the building that served as the hospital was a perfect example. The porch was magnificent and the windows tall and spacious.

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Much of the building was restored to the original state. All of the outside walls still stood. The sandstone blocks that form the 18-inch outer walls were harvested from nearby quarries and chipped or sawn by hand. Looking closely at the blocks, saw and tooth marks can be seen in all the buildings made of these blocks.

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Before the recent restoration hardly any of the wooden floors and roof remained. All the interior walls were also stone blocks because they are load bearing. They were plastered on the inside, and some of the original plaster remains today. Photos from that period and later show the evolution of the building as it went from decay to restoration and back again to decay.

In the photo below –from 1940- the porch is absent; it rotted completely and was not rebuilt until the 1960’s. The balcony was not a part of the original building. After that also rotted away, it was not replaced; the intent was to restore the building to its original design.

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The main portion of the building consisted of the Dispensary,

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the post surgeon’s office,

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and dining room.

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A kitchen and surgery were attached to the back of the main building.

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Because the homes I’ve lived in for nearly fifteen years were heated with wood stoves (and cooking, too), I was intrigued by the woodstoves in the building. The one in kitchen got my attention; I have never seen one with several tiers like this.

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The upstairs was used as a morgue (or Death Room) until a separate building was built behind the hospital. I wonder how disconcerting it was for bedridden patients in the North ward to see the morgue outside their window. After the morgue was built the upstairs served as a storage area. Supplies, including medical, were received only twice a year.

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The north and south wings of the building were the patient wards with a capacity of 24 beds total. I was told the story of when the hospital was finished, beds and mattresses were ordered from the federal government. Because it took many months for anything to arrive at the fringes of the frontier, the head of the hospital was frustrated when only beds arrived but no mattresses. Sending a letter back to Washington requesting mattresses to equip the beds, the reply was to ship the beds back to their origin and an order for completed beds and mattresses would be relayed again. Myself having worked for the Federal government for several years, the ‘red tape’ and incompetence is far reaching back into our history.

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Hardly anything in the hospital building is original. All the furnishings were obtained by the historical society or donated. Everything is, however, representative of that era (many items are from that era, just not original to the fort). The only original items are personal belongings –rifle, sword, etc- of a lieutenant that served at the fort and donated to the historical society to be displayed.

An amusing story related to me is of a man that built his house as an exact replica of the hospital building at the request of his wife. What anyone would want with a 3,400 square foot house that resembled a fort hospital, I can’t fathom. But his wife wanted it and he obeyed.

The South ward contains displays, including a model built of the original fort and all the buildings. Now, I was told that some of those buildings in the model were never there, or vice versa, according to his research. They were added and placed based on the assumption that “all forts had the same buildings, the same layout, the same sizes”. Considering the wide variety of terrain, environment and sources of building materials I can’t imagine that all the forts were the same. To add evidence, I found stone blocks mostly emerged in the ground near the hospital that clearly implied the foundation of a rectangular building. No such building was in the model.

I was titillated at the juxtaposition of, well, toilets. The building contains two modern restrooms: tiled floors and walls, flush toilets and sinks with running water. On the other side of the wall of the woman's room is what served as the 'toilets way back when'. Anyone with a sense of imagination knows the shapes of those ovals.

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After leaving the hospital, I crossed the parade grounds over to the barracks.

To be continued……..

[1] "Interpretive Guide for Fort Richardson State Park and Historic Site"

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man, this is great! an excellent ride report AND a history lesson all in one!! how often are you going to visit these forts? i will look forward to each installment and post as many pics as you can...thanks for sharing.
I'm glad you enjoy it; I enjoy visiting them and relating what I see and learn.

I will be returning to Fort Richardson next month. April 12 is when they have their annual Fort Reinactment: soldiers, canons, powder rifles, etc. I was told that a large period canon will be present, as well as one or two chiefs from the Kiowa tribe. (they didn't know if the Comanche would be represented. Ironically, they STILL can't get along - more on that later.) Supposedly, aside from the reinactment event at Fort McKavett, this one is the largest in the state.

I will post a thread in the Upcoming Trips/Events section for anyone else that would like to go.

My next fort visit is Forts Belknap and Griffin, both relatively nearby.
 
:popcorn:

For more than a couple of summers, as a child, my family spent every weekend visiting Texas forts. Our travel trailer sat loaded, ready to go on Friday night, we rose in the wee hours of Saturday morning and headed for the fort that was our destination for that weekend.

I spent some time, plying my childhood imagination among those restored and not so restored buildings. Hearing the sounds, seeing the sights and smelling the smells of those times...at least in my head. :sun:

I'm looking forward to more of your report. :clap:
 
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Part Four: Where the men roamed.....

The officers’ quarters and the men’s barracks were simple buildings, and there were many of them. The common area, also referred to as the “Parade Area,” separated structures for the enlisted men and the officers.

The same materials and design were used for both types of buildings: wooden tree trunks of relatively small diameter, set on end picket-style, and chinked with dried horse manure and mud. Some of that adobe-style material is still present in between poles of the buildings, but cement was used later to chink places where the adobe material had vanished.
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In answer to my question where the wood materials came from, I learned that all the cottonwoods in the area were felled and used for the fort construction. When they ran out of that, they contracted wood harvested as far as Denton and south. All the wooden floors were rough-sawn oak planks. The only original flooring is in the commanding officers house.

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From outside the officers’ quarters and the men’s barracks were the same. Inside the former, the structures were divided into small rooms with separate doors and windows. On the other hand, the men’s barracks were one long open room with bunks and accommodated more men per building than the officers’ quarters. Because so many officers were in and out of the fort, many lived in a line of tents called Officers’ Row. Some officers even brought their families to live at the fort and they occupied tents.

Mattresses for the enlisted men were made of ticking stuffed with straw which was changed every month. That straw was fed to livestock (ick!) and new straw from harvested wheat and oats repacked into the ticking and sewn shut.

Their bunk beds were double bunks: two slept on top, two on the bottom. Space and materials were optimized as much as possible. Although two wood stoves, one at each end, heated the building, body heat probably helped keep them from freezing in the winter.

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The commanding officers quarters was the biggest house on the grounds. The quarters at Fort Richardson is the only remaining wood frame standing in Texas from that era. Cottonwood board and batten covers the external walls and the interior walls are plastered. Of course, the porch adds more than charm to the building; it was also an excellent vantage point to observe most of the fort activities.

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The ground floor contains a foyer,

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parlor,

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dining room,

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kitchen, and two bedrooms. The upstairs rooms were used for storage. Remember that arrival of supplies was unpredictable and infrequent.

Behind the officer’s quarters stands a thicket of mesquite and prickly pear cactus. These were some of the late arrivals into this area, after the fort was abandoned as the town grew. Up until that time, the entire area was tall prairie grass upon which buffalo and deer grazed. Cottonwoods and oaks grew in stands near and along the creeks, along with some native fruit trees and vines. Manhy of the natives used to periodically burn the prairies to rejuventate the grasses and kill weeds and shrubs. Now, mesquite and the prickly pear have encroached everywhere except for the immediate area where the main post has been restored.

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Leaving the barracks and quarters area, I moseyed to the opposite corner of the post where other buildings remained, either intact or in ruins.

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Part Five: Bakery, Guardhouse and Magazine

Three noteworthy buildings on the post grounds are pictured below; in the foreground, the bakery; the background, the magazine, and in between the remains of the guard house.

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The bakery occupied its own separate building because it was in operation all day and week, supplying the fort with 600-800 loaves of bread a day. That is a phenomenal amount of bread!! I haven’t eaten that much bread in my lifetime. The ovens inside are only partially intact. I photographed it from a side window (door was bolted shut). The chimney remains but the ovens themselves have deteriorated. Normally they are small holes surrounded by stone or bricks into which the bread dough is slid to bake. The back room contained a large beehive oven which is also no longer there. I was told the historical society is still debating further restoration of the inside.

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Also missing is the stone flooring. The original landowner ‘donated’ the large stones from the floor inside the bakery for inclusion in constructing a church in the town.

Keep in mind that the US government rented the land upon which the fort was built, which was common practice. Consequently, when the Calvary was no longer required in the area of the fort, they were sent to another fort, or elsewhere, and the fort was decommissioned. The troops took everything from the fort that they could transport or auctioned supplies and equipment off to the locals. Sometimes they even dismantled wooden buildings to salvage the wood and use elsewhere. The ground was then returned back to the landowner to do with as he/she wished. Some of the landowners just left structures to rot or fall to disrepair, others rented the remains out for trading posts or other lucrative opportunities.

While meandering between buildings and around the Parade area I found what appeared to be a buried stone foundation for a building. There was no mistaking the shape: long rectangle. I also immediately noticed that the ground was absolutely peppered with deer scat. Little round deer nuggets everywhere, even some appearing to have been deposited in the early morning. Ah ha! So this is where the local deer hang out and party!

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Moving on……Only the foundation of the guardhouse remains. The first structure was made of block like many of the other buildings. Cells were tiny: 4 x 8 feet. Sometimes they were packed with drunken enlisted men. Chiefs Santanta and Kicking Bird were held in the two cells at opposite ends so they could not communicate with each other. Space became limiting so a rock addition with more cells was added onto the block building. Part of those walls still remain, too.

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At the far boundary and nearest to the creek is a lone building of fortified cut block: the magazine where explosives and gun powder were stored. The walls are four feet thick and the roof is also brick, vaulted so that the building would implode in the event of an explosion. The original six-inch thick cast iron door has disappeared (I wonder if it is hung in some building in town).

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Now it was time for a walk closer to our time.

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Lost Creek and Trailway

A few more photos before I go:

These are for you, Chuck.

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Trailway

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The obligatory and long awaited bike photo:

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Re: Lost Creek and Trailway

Nice bridge! I may need to go check that out! :thumb:
The fort is having a re-enactment Sat, April 12th. I plan to go and I think Ed might, too. I thought you and Bill might be interested.

Someone is bringing a huge period cannon, and a mounted calvary with period gun power will be there. They told me one or two chiefs of the Kiowa tribe might be there, too. They didn't know about the Comanche being represented; apparently the two tribes STILL don't get along :yawn:
 
Since I can't do much else, I'm using this time off my feet and wheels to catch up on some writing. The entire account of this trip to Fort Richardson is on my blog site, including the final segment which I didn't post here. At the end of that last post is a link to a slideshow.

I can't physically go anywhere, but my head and fingers can.
I don't sit still very well...........
 
Re: Lost Creek and Trailway

Thanks for the great write-up and pics! That was immensely interesting to me. I recently read Dee Brown's "Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee", and it mentioned several of the people you talk about. What a sad, sad story.

One thing I have to bring up, though, because it is a pet peeve of mine:

Someone is bringing a huge period cannon, and a mounted calvary with period gun power will be there.

Calvary is where Christ was crucified. Mounted soldiers are cavalry.
 
Great post! I'm myself I history buff and enjoy reading anything related to Texas/US History.
 
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