Baja and Mexico Mainland

[CeeBee]

I thoroughly enjoyed Miltonotto's ride report and am feeling guilty about not contributing to the madness!
------------------ So here's to you Milton for forcing it out of me -----------------

Not knowing where to start, at the risk of boring you, I guess I'll start at the beginning.

A friend from Washington state called in mid Jan. and invited me on a Baja ride March 4th. I had the perfect bike for a ride like that but it was in pieces. You may have seen pics of it but here they are again. A 2000 Honda XR650R, Bought off E-bay with a blown engine in boxes

It sat for a year while I gathered parts - Then the phone call - And the build starts with a deadline in a new garage not setup for anything but storing boxes.

The frame oil screen - Big end thrust washers went bye bye - pic out of focus but that's brass all over the screen

My hopeless garage - let me clean a little corner and get started

Cleaning

Building

Wiring

To cut a very long story short - there it is, ready for the trip to Yuma, AZ Sat. afternoon March 2, 2008
Finished it about 1:00 am Sat. morning, so no engine break-in or shake down ride - Straight to Baja!!
veeeery stupid or confident - we shall see. Either way I didn't want to cancel the trip on a technicality.

My plan was to ride with the group to Bay of L.A.; solo to Cabo, back up to LaPaz, take a ferry to Mazatlan, up to Batopilas, Creel and back to Yuma.
Made the blast in the pickup to Yuma in record time, sleeping in rest areas. I Stayed at a motel waiting for the 20 others to assemble at Burt and Tim's house. I think it was Tuesday morning, I went to fill up the tank; The air compressor for the tires was out of order so I told Burt I was going for air, he said there was one on the freeway and to join the others when they pass by. Well, nobody ever went by! "Burt left my butt in Yuma". Figured Tim freaked him out bringing twenty some friends on a ride to Mexico. Ever try to keep an eye on twenty kids? Adults are probably worse. Oh well, I'll just start my solo ride early.
Headed west and saw an exit that said Mexico, turned off, crossed the border and saw Tim wondering around looking for Burt. My new buddy Burt even left his own son, I felt like part of the family!

Burt and Tim

Second and last flat tire of the trip - and both were Burt's

San Felipe - our first overnight stop

Slept in Palapas by the beach

Sun rise

On the way to Puertecitos

More later, Chuck

 

[thumper]

So you saved the route? More pics!!!!! And the details!

 

[mcrider]

Chuck, It didn't dawn on me you were on the long apart XR the other Sunday. It did good on the madden ride.

 

[Rman of 237]

 

[CeeBee]

A break near Gonzaga Bay with Mike, Rick and myself

Pat, man handles that big GS and makes it look easy

Arrived in Gonzaga Bay - At the store -

Sherry setting up her tent under a palapa

Arrived at Coco's Corner

On the way to bay of L.A.

More later, Chuck

 

[CeeBee]

Chuck, It didn't dawn on me you were on the long apart XR the other Sunday. It did good on the madden ride.

Chris,
Actually, that was after I got back and 2,600 miles later.

 

[Texason]

I am looking forward to the rest of this one!

 

[Duke]

Keep it coming

I hope to ride down there too one of these days, thanks for posting this up!

 

[CeeBee]

Stayed in bay of L.A. for two nights. Part of the group filled up all the palapa's on the beach and the other part moteled it. Most did a day trip to the San Borja Mission. Split up into little groups and met at the mission.

Changed the break-in oil, adjusted the chain and gave the BRP a 1st service. Right upper radiator bolt vibrated out. Had to pull the tank to get to it - no big deal, I had enough tools to rebuild it if I had to. Talk about poundage - tools are heavy and considering my situation I brought plenty!
Feel very lucky so far, the bike was doing great. Even the new Eldebrook carb. didn't need to be adjusted, right out of the box!!!

This little Suzuki 200 was brand new and Sherry rode it from Longview TX to Yuma AZ to Bay of LA back to Yuma to Death valley to 600 miles short of Washington state. Had to be picked up due to snow on the road. Who said little bikes can't go on big mileage road trips?

Desert was in bloom

The Mission

Looking from the mission into the parking lot

On the way back to Bay of LA I had the opportunity to give Bacon a ride. Bacon is a hand puppet that started in Australia and is being past from rider to rider in hopes of traversing the world.

Bacon before the ride

Bacon after the ride

On the way back to the hotel

The route to the mission took several bike causalities and one Knee. He was still able to ride. After more that his share of tequilla that night, went straight to San Diego for X-rays. The next morning the group was heading back but that night six riders got sick. everybody split up. Some riders went back on pavement, some on dirt and some stayed in bed to convalesce until they felt better.

This was going to be the start of my solo journey but Jorg, a canadan fron Victoria island, asked if he could travel to Cabo with me.
He was on a XR650R also and wasn't afraid of the throttle.

Headed to Francisquito for lunch ( I just called it Frank's Casino) after a few beers.

Rode on to San Ignacio and arrived just before dusk. Checked into the famous Rice and Beans hotel and restaurant. In the morning, while eating breakfast, guess who I was talking to at the table next to mine?
Malcolm Smith

And a guy named Jimmy - Haydon was driving the sopport van

More later

 

[Texian]

whoa. very cool!

 

[thumper]

Dang! I knew I should've gone!

 

[FirstMan]

This a great story, thank you for posting it.

 

[Teeds]

Ditto on the great story.

Looks like you had REAL fun there.

Now get busy and write faster!

 

[CeeBee]

If anybody wants to follow the travels of Bacon It is posted on advrider
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=287919&referrerid=28820

 

[Greasemonkey]

Good write up Chuck.Thanks for sharing.

 

[CeeBee]

Rusty will like this - Dick and his Transalp that he rode down to San Ignacio and didn't avoid the dirt.

The Mission off the town square. This town was great and we should have spent more time there. Quaint, relaxed feel, with date palms everywhere

Sweeping the square with a palm branch after a fiesta, Sat. night.

Cruised through Santa Rosalia and down to Mulege'. Mulege is a great town with a good feel to it. Met a guy that directed us south a couple of miles to a camp site and got a bungalow for the night from this chica.

At this place

Some may recognize the murals

Sunrise - Normally, I'm not a morning person, I think I saw most every sunrise on this trip.

Rode south a little bit - to breakfast on the beach here.

The restaurant owner said the beach is usually filled with RV's this time of year. Thinks the travel warnings the U.S. put out were the reason it is so slow.

Rode a little loop just south of where we spent the night that was alota fun - Rosarito to San Nicolas to a Fish camp and back to the main road. Loose rock hill climbs, sand and river beds - sorry no pics.
Moving south again.

Taking a break at some ancient graffiti

Stayed in Loreto, Did laundry, had real coffee and bought a hat to replace the one I lost on the trail leaving Alfonsina's out of Gonzaga bay.
Made it to La Paz after donating a little fuel to Jorg.

Morning coffee

Both Jorg and I burned brand new rear tires down and replaced them here. We had our oil changed and Jorg had to replace both wheel bearings. His spokes were so loose he should of had them replaced too.
Jorg rebuilding his bike - Mine was still holding together and looked great - so far!!!! fingers crossed.

Rode down to Cabo on pavement, Partied that night and headed back to LaPaz looking for the ferry. - What happens in Cabo stays in Cabo????

Check out this ficus tree and it's trunk, it is a house plant here.

Jorg and I split up, He headed north to the border through the Baja and I to the ferry.

More later

 

[Teeds]

Thank you

I know how difficult it is to balance work and reports after you return

 

[CeeBee]

I planned on taking the ferry to Mazatlan but that one was a day late and 18 hrs. long. The Topolobampo ferry was leaving in 3 hrs. and I was told it was 6 hrs. long. Mine was the only bike and had to wait because bikes loaded last. The ship was so full that two hands and I had to lay the bike down, slide it under a truck, then move it against the outer wall, on top of a mass of coiled rope, to find a spot. Then they told me to get out and go around to the passenger area. I said "no way it's not secure!" They argued and I said "just lift the ramp, I'll handle it." Tied it down with some parachute cord I brought, as a light weight tow strap, against two-by-fours wedged between the bike and hull. Now underway, find myself in the belly of the beast 5 stories down; surrounded by big rigs flexing their anchor chains. The ship was packed so tight that I took off my camel-back to get between the trucks and when that didn't work, went under or backed out for a different route - an unusual kind of maze for sure. Finally worked my way to the upper deck, dripping with sweat from the cargo hold sauna, walked into the bar and, from the look on their faces , it was like a Martian had just walked in with MX boots and all the riding gear. Felt kinda awkward but the beer was good.

6 hrs turned to 8 1/2 and I unloaded in the dark. Broke rule #1 and rode to Los Mochis at night. Found a hotel room in town. Wish I had a pic because the entrance to the lobby was barricaded with furniture, that's right, the door was missing. I was so tired and hungry I didn't care. Room turned out to be nice and clean though for 300 pesos. Turns out it was just across the street from the Federali's building......You never know if this is a good thing...
I had no map for the mainland, after an enjoyable morning interacting with the locals, trying to buy one, I had success only after talking to a Federali, in the building across from my hotel! Four hours later I had two, people in Mexico have no clue about maps. While eating lunch and reading the map to get a basic route, I shared my ideas with an interested Mexican and the only response I got was "May God be with you". What kind of a response was that? Screw it, I'm going anyway.
The plan was to go the back way into Batopilas, but instead of going the normal known route through Choix, I would head straight east out of El Fuerte.
Sorry for all the text but didn't pull the camera out until later!
Went to El Central in El Fuerte, It must have been around 1:00 on Friday I think. The place was hoppin with the markets and these high school kids all dressed up in Indian garb playing instruments - real cool, no pics. After 30 min's. and a few conversations (Take that last word lightly) I find the right road and head out.
The road was paved for about 1 or 2 miles then turned in to what I have been after this whole trip - Mountainous rough dirt, leading to the middle of no-where, to see the real Mexico.
The riding was great and getting better (or worse, depending on your perspective) every mile.
Rode into a small village and saw some people eating and drinking on a little patio and decided to stop. Started taking off my riding gear and the women start grabbing the children, the men came to full alert, I walked up and ordered a bottled water. Don't think they ever saw a white boy on a bike before! After a while I handed out stickers for the kids and bs-ing with the men and we were all buddies. A truck came tearing up the road passed us, stirring up dust and for what ever reason I said ahhh chingow. The guys started laughing and I said "I probably shouldn't have said that cause I don't know what it means". In unison everybody in the patio started chanting "you son of a beech" "you son of a beech" and laughing hysterically. Quite a moment! Got my maps out, two of the people there were bus drivers & they started adding towns on my, one step above, worthless maps. Each time they added a town they described it and what was there. This later proved to be very valuable info.
My bus driver buds - Yes that's a beer can he's drinking from

Continued on and found my progress on the map moved ALOT slower than previously expected. The shadows were getting long, the gas low and my stomach growling. Thanks to the bus drivers and my new time line, figured I could make LaJatias by dusk. Even though I never planned to use it, I had comfort knowing I still had my sleeping bag.
Made it there a little before dusk and everybody was friendly. Four girls in their early 20's gravitated toward this crazy gringo dressed up like a man from the moon. Two brought me to their mother's house to feed me and the other two to their mother's house for a room. In my present position, this added a whole new meaning to "Getting Lucky"

Food cooked off a wood burning stove and a couple of hams in the back ground and 'mom'

I asked Diana (the one in the pink, her mom owned the hotel) if she wanted or needed anything from the states and she said yes - a Tundra - A new truck?!?
Kids are the same everywhere. I should send her a matchbox Tundra.

The Hotel

The room

They wanted me to stay for the fiesta the next night and do a lot of bailando but was afraid their mothers would put me to work during the idle hours of the day! The bike was running pretty bad at 5,000 feet so I took the tank off and leaned out the carb, adjusted and lubed the chain among other things. Said my goodbye's and it was a big ordeal like I was at my uncles or something. Left late, full, rested, with mucho gasolina.
Every little town I went through, I had to ask for directions, because there were multiple roads out and was misled a few times (not on purpose I'm sure).
One led down a road that turned into two track, then single track. Although fun, I lost over two hours. Not that I had a schedule or anything but when the sun went down it was pitch black and in the upper 30's and low 40's. The good was: the stars were beautiful and filled the sky, temps. in the upper 70's during the day. Next I stopped in Morelos for the night, early at about 3:00pm. Not knowing the next place to stay and the slow going, decided it was wise , plus I'm not in a hurry. (what wisdom has to do with this trip I am unsure, Tawnya the wife)
Rolled into town and was greeted by my new guides
They showed me a place to stay and had to go to three houses before I could get something to eat. They said 3:00 was a weird time to eat!

Saw quite a few vehicles cast to the wayside - Bus drivers drinking beer?

Typical road

About half of the places I stayed didn't have toilet seats???

A few pics of the area

No guard rails anywhere - Mexico is a land of self responsibility!!

Next morning rode on to Batopilas (I like Batopilas but only spent a short time there) thru San Miguel. Right before and a long way after Bato. the road was like an expressway. Kind of liked it at first but got old fast, and after a while it got a little better.
Arrived in Creel and checked into Margarita's ( It was nice but would probably choose a different place next time).

Next morning it was snowing and decided to wait until 11:00am to leave

Headed north to the intersection in San Juanito so I could take a short cut to Basaseachic on 23 and got about 20 miles or so. Trucks were flashing their lights and honking their horns at me tilling me to turn around as I was wiping ice from my face shield to see. Already frozen and wet, facing a muddy road under construction, I decided to turn back a go the long way up to 16. Thinking this might happen, I had wired the XRR for an electric jacket, well that didn't work. Oh well, if that was the only thing that didn't work on a 2,600 mile break-in /shake down ride, I will be happy and feel fortunate.

Hotel in Basaseachic

Looking out back when I arrived

The next morning

Thawing out the bike in the sun, after finding out all I needed was a bigger fuse for my jacket to work.

One of 6 or 7 times I got stopped by the military - this time when he said I can go, I returned with "no way - Let's take a photo"

I was stopped in the middle of nowhere twice by walking solders and one was on a loose rock hill climb. After they said I could go ( In all the stops they never searched me) I had to get two to hold the back of the bike so it wouldn't roll down the hill and one to keep it from going sideways while I kicked it alive. It must of looked hilarious. I actually liked those guys, if I ever felt threatened (which never happened) I would get help from them.
On the way back thought it would just be a boring blast back to Yuma AZ. but was thrilled to find out I was wrong. From Basaseachic to about 120 kms from Hermosillo was fabulous, Tail of the Dragon, type roads (better actually) A sad thing, I passed a section where a car went over a 1,500 foot cliff min's. before I got there. I passed three federali pickups en route to the scene.
Those roads can be dangerous, but that's probably why we like them. A truck rounded a corner and pushed me in a ditch next to the cliff wall face and the bike went tit's up. Bent the light and broke both rear view mirrors, the truck just kept going. (thank God for the wall side and not the precipice) Hadn't seen a car all morning, but a pickup happened by, and saw me struggling and helped me gett'er back on two wheels. Those bikes can be heavy when the tank is below the wheels. A few tie straps and I was good to go, it took forever to stop panting like a dog at that altitude. I rode off whistling and happy it wasn't the 500 foot drop of on the other side of the road!!

Would do it again in a minute


Over all the bike did excellent. An electric start would be nice though. 2,600 mile and just a radiator bolt vibrated out. Would take it again.
The feeling one gets, after your friends leave, looking into the mountains, with no real plans other than a proposed unproven route and all the other unknowns ( Is there gas, hotels, food, will I break down, crash or or or) is hard to explain. It left me a feeling of excitement and exhilaration! Looking forward to the next sunrise and first times. My wife said I'm weird, but think I'm not alone. Kinda reminded me of a night dive. Jumping off the boat into the black abyss of the ocean and coming back with stories of awe.

Thanks for your patience
Chuck

 

[thumper]

Gheez Carlos, Lady Luck treated you well on this trip... no break in, ran into Malcolm, custom maps, and the Chicitas! Great story!

 

[skinny]

Great trip report Chuck... ...we're leaving next Fri. for a week in the same area...hope you didn't leave the locals mad at dirt-bikers...

 

[FirstMan]

Great write up, I enjoyed it all.

 

[CeeBee]

Chuck, It didn't dawn on me you were on the long apart XR the other Sunday. It did good on the madden ride.

I am looking forward to the rest of this one!

Keep it coming

I hope to ride down there too one of these days, thanks for posting this up!

This a great story, thank you for posting it.

Ditto on the great story.

Looks like you had REAL fun there.

Now get busy and write faster!

whoa. very cool!

Good write up Chuck.Thanks for sharing.

Gheez Carlos, Lady Luck treated you well on this trip... no break in, ran into Malcolm, custom maps, and the Chicitas! Great story!

Great trip report Chuck... ...we're leaving next Fri. for a week in the same area...hope you didn't leave the locals mad at dirt-bikers...

Thanks guys and don't worry Skinny , everybody had a great time except maybe the wildlife!

 

[Hoop]

great report! You are definitely not alone, just a lot braver than most.

 

[OLDERMXER]

Wow! I finally got the opportunity to read the entire report. What a trip it was. I can feel the excitment at the end of the report and at this point could only dream of being in that situation.
Great meeting you & I had a good time Sunday riding in the forest. Wish we could have talked a little more at lunch about your trip but what the heck that is what they make the next ride for. Thanks for the use of the tie down.

Bryan

KLX 250

 

[dbdolan]

Excellent adventure Chuck, you helped me kill the last hour at work.