Trip Report: Big Bend Flooding

[Ixta]

Trip Sep 19-22 to see the Rio Grande flowing at 33k cu'/sec. I just could not pass up the opportunity to see this, so a friend and I packed up a WR250R and XT-225 and headed west.

Lots of photos will follow this post

First the sad news:

The small Mexican village across from Lajitas appeared to have about 4' of swift water running through it. Santa Elena appeared to be in similar condition. For the most part, Boquillas, was untouched except for a few structures near the river. There was major flooding across from La Linda, but I don't think anyone has lived there for many years.

Big Bend has taken quite a hit from the floods. It will be some time before it recovers. The Rio Grande campground is under water and the water was within 5 feet of the store. The visitors center remained dry. A ranger told us that the roads and sewage infrastructure had been severly damaged and it would be awhile before RGV would be open again. In addition, park service employees have been displaced from RGV housing due to imminent flooding.

River roads east and west were closed. Maverick is in OK condition. However, Ross Maxwell was underwater in both directions past the intersection with Maverick. The only mid-park access to the river was via Glenn Springs and Black Gap roads. Lower Glenn Springs road was in as bad of shape as Black Gap normally is due to the recent rains. River Road east was flooded at La Clocha and River Road west was closed between Tally intersection and the pavement. River road between Solis and the Glenn Springs is in very poor condition due to the recent rains and isn't passable unless by extreme 4WD (possibly requiring winching) or an appropriate dirt bike.

The road to Santa Elena canyon past the overlook has pavement damage (apparently from high flow out of Terlingua Creek).

Now, the good news:

We had a blast! We experienced great weather, the park was practically vacant, we had three days of safe riding, and once in a lifetime views of the Rio Grande.

Here's a sample photo of a camp visitor (Coachwhip) to make sure I have Photobucket configured properly:

 

[Ixta]

We arrived expecting crowds of people. Persimmon gap said we were the 91st to enter the park when we arrived at around 1PM. We expected quite a few of the backcountry sites to be taken. However, we were only one of two groups camping the backcountry as of Friday evening. So, we chose an old favorite: Roy's Peak and headed off to set up camp:

Since we only had several more hours of daylight, we headed off down Old Ore road towards Boquillas to check out the flow. Old Ore road:

Shot of the Rio Grande entering Boquillas. For those of you familiar with this part of the park, this shot is at the top of the trail entering the canyon. The lower ledge (where the lower grinding mortars are) is underwater as well as the rest of the trail into the canyon.

View upstream from the same point.

Boquillas parking was empty. We had the park practically to ourselves. Note the green from recent rains.

 

[Ixta]

The next day, we headed to La Linda, downstream (and outside of the park) from Boquillas. We stopped off for gas in Stillwell and were thoroughly (but unintentionally) entertained by some of the colorful locals hanging out on the front porch. By thy way, Stillwell store has gas and is open 8AM until 9PM 365 days a year.

Water flow at the La Linda bridge. Note the water on the back side of the Mexican customs house.

And a view upstream from the bridge:

We met a ranger group and one of the local outfitters exiting the river after scouting it for permitting. They flew through Boquillas in about four hours on an inflatable with a 15hp outboard. The rangers are now permitting Boquillas. If you are a river runner, this would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

 

[Ixta]

Next on the agenda was Black Gap. Given the recent rains, Black Gap was actually in better condition than lower Glenn Springs or River Road. Quite a bit of this past years maintenance work is now headed downstream to become Lake Amistad silt.

Black Gap road:

About half-way through Black Gap we ran across a clear stream running about 6 feet wide and 8 inches deep. It was obviously spring flow. I don't recall ever seeing this wash run this clear and fast before. The same stream disappeared back into the gravel before reaching River Road. We followed it upstream for awhile, but could not see the source.

Shot of the road down to Solis. This is the take-out for trips through Mariscal Canyon. This was taken from what is normally the hill above the Solis campsites. The river was approximately 300 yards wide at this point.

Another view of Solis

We rode down River Road heading east to see how far we could go before the road became impassable. There were several areas which were washed out enough to prevent passage by anything but extreme 4WD and possibly requiring winch assistance.

River Road was unusually green from the recent rains

River Road East became submerged just to the west of La Clocha.

More to come.

 

[Ixta]

The only access to Santa Elena canyon was via Maverick road. Ross Maxwell road is flooded past Castolon. Cottonwood campground is underwater.

Maverick Road opened up on Sunday, so we rode down to check out Santa Elena.

Road approaching what used to be the parking area for Santa Elena

Same spot, looking back up the road. There is quite a bit of pavement damage here.

Several views of Santa Elena canyon all taken from the overlook:

In search of breakfast, we discovered that Cathy was closed Sunday mornings The little place next to the Fina was also closed. However, a fantastic breakfast was had at the Ghost town Cafe. We ran across a fellow San Antonio rider on a GS and enjoyed swapping Mexico travel stories.

Lajitas was typically and appropriately vacant. The golf course at Lajitas has a new and rather large water hazard.

Water over 170 just past Lajitas

This is the parking area just north of Lajitas that serves as the put-in for Santa Elena canyon trips as well as the former crossing to the village across the river.

View across from Lajitas. The village appeared to have about 4 feet of flow through the middle. There was no sign of activity across the river. Two Mexican gentlemen standing on the US side of the river somberly described the situation as "bad".

More to come.

 

[fastmonstr]

Wow.

Thanks for the pics.

 

[JUSTRIDE2666]

WOW!! I havent been to those places in 30 years makes me want to do what y'all did and try out my new klr thanks for the insperation. just need to find someone to ride with me to be on the safe side.THANKS FOR THE GREAT PICS...THAT WILL BE ON MY BUCKET LIST.. GAVIN JUSTRIDE2666

 

[TexasShadow]

Wow... and another WOW.
Amazing what rivers can do, and I'm sure this is not the first time. I wonder when the previous flooding was at that level.

Thanks a bunch for taking the trip and the report/photos. It will be very interesting to see how it changes between now and late December.

 

[The Bruce]

Many thanks for scouting. We're heading down there in a couple of weeks on street bikes. We have hotel reservation this time. Hope it is down some by then. If not, it's all good.

 

[Ixta]

On Sunday after visiting Lajitas, we headed North out of Terlingua on South County Road with the intention of linking back to Highway 118. However, this was not to be the case as Terlingua creek is impassible due to very nasty clay mud.

Northwest of Terlingua:

Approaching Terlingua Creek, we ran across a local Terlingua Ranch weekender/landowner who was seriously stuck with his dog and 2WD quad.

I gave him a ride back to his place (claimed to be "about 4 miles") while Scott stayed with the dog. I clocked quite a few more than that on the odometer, so this guy would have had quite a nice afternoon hike if we had not come along He was very appreciative of the ride.

After securing his jeep and winch and after a bit of digging, the quad was freed from the nasty stuff.

Crossing Terlingua Creek at North County Road probably ought to be avoided until it dries out a bit. The mud is deceptive. It's fairly hard on the surface, but is many feet deep just below the crust. It's that really nasty fender-clogging shoe-sucking super-sticky bentonite clay mud which can ruin your whole day. Also, it is very obvious that none of the locals come near this place (except for our recent acquaintance), much less attempt a crossing in these conditions, so that's a good sign to stay away. Those of you who have been victim to this mud will certainly be chuckling at this, eh?

We scouted the path downstream to the rock bed as a possible crossing, but the water was pretty far up the bank and the mud was still fresh. YMMV, but it's a long recovery if it does not work out.....

We decided La Kiva was a good way to end the Terlingua adventure and back-tracked County Road. With regards to color, La Kiva did not (and rarely does) disappoint.

Unfortunately, we were not able to offer breakfast or refreshments at La Kiva to our favorite local resident, as he was elsewhere. Perhaps next time, friend.

 

[Ixta]

I wonder when the previous flooding was at that level.

Hey, Elzi.

One of the locals relayed that the last time the river was near this level was in 1978. However, it was not as high as it is now. The previous flooding was also due to release from the same in Mexico and also due to a tropical storm.

The desert beckons you. Can you feel it pulling?

Hope to see you guys again in December.

Regards,

Joel.

 

[Bandit33]

When I rode North and South County rd last December, I remember crossing Terlingua Creek, thinking that could be pretty tough if there had been recent rains......a lot of potential for mud. Great report and pictures.
I am sure that guy and his dog were glad you guys came along.

Don

 

[TexasShadow]

The desert beckons you. Can you feel it pulling?

Yes. It's torture

Hope to see you guys again in December.

I hope so!
You joining us then? It would be really interesting to go back to those places you were recently (although I recognize most of them) and see how they change in a few months time. Put together some before and after photos maybe?

 

[Ixta]

I sure hope to make it. As it stands now, I'm shooting for a long weekend before Christmas - something like the 18th thru the 23rd.

 

[beemerchef]

Thanks for the report! We have been here a couple days now and have not gone into the Park yet... We will be here on and off for 6 months... Let us know when you come back...
Be well... Ara & Spirit

 

[ed29]

I have slung some of that mud up on my fenders when I got a little off line as the tail end rider in a group. I was glad to get out the other side without being stuck. That landowner must be in his first season down there.

See you in December and thanks for the pictures!

 

[db]

Thanks for the report! We have been here a couple days now and have not gone into the Park yet... We will be here on and off for 6 months... Let us know when you come back...
Be well... Ara & Spirit

Hmmm...where is 'here'?

 

[Ixta]

Here are a few more photos as well as movie clips.

http://web.me.com/km5ca/Site/Big_Bend_Flood.html

Enjoy,

Joel.

 

[Ixta]

Let us know when you come back...
Be well... Ara & Spirit

Thanks, Ara. Will do. I hope to make it back out no later than December. Like a lot of others, I've followed you exploits with great interest.

I also drive a Ural side-car hack. Unfortunately, mine is attached to a Ural...

Regards,

Joel.

 

[skinny]

On Sunday after visiting Lajitas, we headed North out of Terlingua on South County Road with the intention of linking back to Highway 118. However, this was not to be the case as Terlingua creek is impassible due to very nasty clay mud.

Northwest of Terlingua:

Approaching Terlingua Creek, we ran across a local Terlingua Ranch weekender/landowner who was seriously stuck with his dog and 2WD quad.

I gave him a ride back to his place (claimed to be "about 4 miles") while Scott stayed with the dog. I clocked quite a few more than that on the odometer, so this guy would have had quite a nice afternoon hike if we had not come along He was very appreciative of the ride.

After securing his jeep and winch and after a bit of digging, the quad was freed from the nasty stuff.

Crossing Terlingua Creek at North County Road probably ought to be avoided until it dries out a bit. The mud is deceptive. It's fairly hard on the surface, but is many feet deep just below the crust. It's that really nasty fender-clogging shoe-sucking super-sticky bentonite clay mud which can ruin your whole day. Also, it is very obvious that none of the locals come near this place (except for our recent acquaintance), much less attempt a crossing in these conditions, so that's a good sign to stay away. Those of you who have been victim to this mud will certainly be chuckling at this, eh?

We scouted the path downstream to the rock bed as a possible crossing, but the water was pretty far up the bank and the mud was still fresh. YMMV, but it's a long recovery if it does not work out.....

We decided La Kiva was a good way to end the Terlingua adventure and back-tracked County Road. With regards to color, La Kiva did not (and rarely does) disappoint.

Unfortunately, we were not able to offer breakfast or refreshments at La Kiva to our favorite local resident, as he was elsewhere. Perhaps next time, friend.

You'll notice 2 sets of tracks on the opposite bank...we crossed Friday by going down stream a ways and avoiding the mud where the ATV was stuck...the other bank is not as muddy...

 

[skinny]

Thanks for the report! We have been here a couple days now and have not gone into the Park yet... We will be here on and off for 6 months... Let us know when you come back...
Be well... Ara & Spirit

Hey Ara...

It's good to have you back in Texas...Rocketman and I will be in Terlingua 9-25 thru 9-28...staying at the Chisos....come see us...

Skinny