Texas Grasslands

[Gilk51]

actually saw a bobcat up close......near River Legacy Park in Arlington of all places. Was riding my bicycle on the trail that runs out towards 360 along the flood plain and he just wandered out of the bushes and walked right past me.

A co-worker and his wife have also seen a bobcat while hiking in River Legacy.

It seems like canines, especially domestic ones, have a wider range of physical characteristics than any other species - with the possible exception of the big cats. Quite a range from a Chihuahua to a Bull Mastiff and wolf.

This is a good read, however, I have a mental block on "grasslands" - the immediate response is "mow"!

 

[TexasShadow]

Mounds and Trails

At times the roads just capture me and take me on a magic carpet ride and I'm only a passenger in motion. Other times my mind is full of questions and wonder, wondering what life was like 50, 100 or even thousands of years ago on the ground upon which I ride or stand. Sometimes my insatiable curiosity gets the better of me and I just have to know. I don't know why, I just do (and am). Many times something beckons me, "What happened here?", and I want to understand. "No matter where you go, there you are." So this is the explanation why my posts are so long.

After our group left Forestburg Don guided us on the highway and then on a county road. We rode along creeks and up onto a high prairie, the gravel road winding alongside wire fences with tall grass, cows, and horses, or just empty stretches of prairie with the only movement the grass bowing to the winds. Only gnarled oaks broke the monotony as we rolled up and down the undulating stretches of grass. It was peaceful and beautiful in its own special way. I succumbed to it as I rode along, just enjoying the ride. Without wondering 'Why?'

Don pulled off the road at a bend and we followed, welcoming the break. While the others relaxed and chatted, Don and I walked through a cemetery. It was in a state of inattention judging by the tall grass growing everywhere. We found rebar stuck in the ground with bright orange collars and next to short grave stones, many of which were only remnants of former markers. This particular cemetery was quite large with perhaps only half of the markers intact and less were legible. It was an exemplary cemetery; in a grove of old oaks, beside a creek, overgrown. Most of the area was shaded by the trees and tall grass except for the sunshine hitting a few of the tall white granite and marble headstones. The mystique was so prevalent, it was almost as if some of the tall lit markers were ghosts themselves. It reminded me the irony of many of these old cemeteries: people gone and forgotten, their lives and histories gone with them. All that remain are these stones with chiseled dates and names.

Later I discovered that it was Antioch, later called Gladys Cemetery as it is close to the long-gone town of Gladys on Hwy 677 (yes, another ghost town). Pioneers, settlers, soldiers of the Civil War, victims of epidemics and Indian depredations are buried there. Some lived a long healthy life. Many are lost forever with broken stones marking their remains.

Soon we were on Hwy 677 and heading north to St. Joe. Another ghost town. There are many around that area. But the closer to the Red River, the longer and more interesting the history. Like the Rio Grande, that river is a boundary separating two areas with similarities and differences. The latter was more pronounced on the Red River during the period of western expansion than now. And this is when the land bordering the river was rich in exciting history.

To be continued...... St. Joe, a whisper of its former self

 

[TexasShadow]

Bold St. Jo

Despite the small sleepy town of St Jo that we visited that Saturday, the town boasts many things. One is being the oldest town in Montague County. This year is their sesquicentennial, although it was a town long before then. Also, from its conception in 1849 it was called Head of Elm until 1873 when the name was changed to 'Saint Jo'. No one really knows the origin of the name, but the popular myth (rural legend?) is below. It seems that alcohol plays a prominent part in the town's history, or, shall I say, 'notoriety'.

"In August 1873 the town promoters laid out the present townsite, encompassing much of the original village of Head of Elm. Some say they used a grapevine and followed a Spanish compass with the streets running southeast to northwest and southwest to northeast for one-half mile in each direction from the square. It is said that the promoters laying out the town were so impressed by the abstinence from alcohol of a surveyor named Jo that they named the town Saint Jo. ( A more scandalous version of the story is that Jo was tempted by alcoholic spirits so often that the town was so-named in jest!)"

One of my frontier 'heroes' is Captain Randolph Marcy.* His observation and intelligence was so keen, he was recruited by the federal govt. many a time to explore and chart trails, especially west. In his diary, he relates camping in that exact area in 1849. He was greatly impressed by the vast prairies, stands of timber (oaks, etc), clean and palatable water supply, and abundance of game. His famous California Trail went through the future St Jo area, which would also be intersected years later by the Chisolm Trail. In fact, St Jo became a favored and frequent stop-over for cowboys on the trail with their cattle: water for their horses and 'spirits' for them.

The town was fist called Head of Elm because, as the name implies, it is at the head of the Elm Fork of the Trinity River. Within a radius of 50 miles is a unique spot: watershed for three rivers; the Red, Trinity and Brazos. Marcy camped on a hill near that area where he reported in his diary that one can overlook the watersheds for all three rivers. He was greatly impressed with that spot (and I want to find it ).

Several buildings on the large town square are original and quite old. The most famous is the Stonewall Saloon built in 1872 by Confederate Captain Boggess and named after Stonewall Jackson.

"This establishment served drivers on the Chisholm Trail as they moved cattle north to the rail head at Abilene, Kansas. The Stonewall Saloon building still stands, having been restored as a museum. A bar well over a hundred years old is still inside. A rooming house was on the second floor, and stories differ as to what pleasures were available to cowboys staying there!"

Unfortunately it was not open when we were there. I would have loved to go inside. However, I did notice that a man was renovating the interior of the building next to it. Despite the caution and warning signs at the door, I stepped in enough to get a shot. He was on a scaffold with a power tool removing the stucco down to the original bare stone. I'd like to see it when it is renovated.

The town square was very busy long ago (check out these photos). That day the only vehicles in the large square were motorcycles and one lone truck (in front of the building being renovated). It appears to be a 'hot spot' for Harleys; nearly all of the bikes parked and going through were HDs. Our's were the only wierd ones.

We parked next to what as probably an old horse water trough and it seems that it's still used; a water spigot was next to it and still delivering. I think the water triggered something in Ed.

I wandered around the square and shot some interesting perspectives. Two historical markers are also located there. The town, especially the square, has some potential especially being located on US 82. It is quite charming and quaint and loaded with history.

It has a few operating businesses but most of the square's storefronts are empty and abandoned. Ironically, one in business is a bike shop, complete with boardwalk, rocking chairs and characters. I like that.

We took a break in the shade, ate a snack, drank some water, and relaxed. Then we headed out again.

*If anyone wants to read an intelligent recollection of those times, read his diaries. I have one of them and he amazes me. Let me know if anyone is interested and I'll relay how to obtain a copy.

 

[Gilk51]

Re: Bold St. Jo

Ironically, one in business is a bike shop, complete with boardwalk, rocking chairs and characters. I like that.

It looks like one of those "characters" is headed inside... ​

 

[TexasShadow]

Camping in the Grasslands

The remaining three of our group planned on camping overnight in the grasslands, and we already had a good idea where we wanted to set up camp. We ended up at Cottonwood Lake, down a sandy/dirt road, nestled in the woods and next to a creek. Temperature was dropping fast and dinner was calling.

Wiley wanted out; he had been relegated to inside the tail bag with the camera. But he was cold.

After setting up the tent, I turned to find him creeping out of his hiding place.

Bryan,s camp chair. A bargain from the kid's section at Academy. It is on my list of bike camping equipment to get.

The sun was setting quickly

and the moon was hanging high in the sky.

Goodnight, Moon.

 

[donroger1]

Have never seen a wolf in person,.....would love to.

I have. It wasn't romantic or fun. I was using an outdoor payphone in Lake Bronson, Minnesota to call my girlfriend (now my wife). It was the nearest town with a motel to my Grandmother's home. I had traveled there to celebrate my Great Grandmother's Hundredth birthday. The motel didn't have any phones so you had to drive into town and use the phone on the post. (No booth)
I was chatting away when I noticed a "dog" moving ever closer. When I realized it was a wolf, I calmly explained to my girlfriend that our calling time was over and I slowly moved laterally toward the car. The wolf watched intently. After what seemed like forever, I got to the driver's door and was able to bolt into the car as the wolf dashed around after me.
It was my last call back to Texas for the remainder of the week.

 

[RedRocker]

My wife saw one in Utah, went off by herself to an overlook over the Green River and it was stalking her. Watch what you wish for!

 

[TexasShadow]

Morning in the Grasslands

The three of us woke up to fog and frost. Only hot coffee was going to tempt me from my cozy sleeping bag. We enjoyed a relaxing breakfast as the sun rose and fog lifted off the lake.

After packing the bikes with camping gear, we took off in search of a place I learned about: a ghost town with an intriguing name on one of the many gravel roads in the grasslands.

The town of Audubon was once a thriving community with school, church, etc. Named after the famous naturalist, James Audubon.

All that remains is a church. But people still remember the life here.

Surrounding the rolling prairie land which was home to many settlers and their families is now pastoral cattle pastures.

Next: a bit of Maine in Texas

 

[TX_northstar]

Great posts! I have lived on the edge of the LBJ grass lands for 15+years. I guess over time I have taken them for granted. The first big spike in fuel prices a couple of years ago halted most of my trips. I used to get out there monthy, more often during duck season, to walk the dogs or just walk myself. My wife and I hiked the trail between black bear & cottonwood lakes for our second date. I got my first Rio Grande Turkey on lot 9.
If the weather holds for the weekend I may take my map & DL1000 and see how many of the bigger lots I can hit in an afternoon. Thanks for bringing back some fond memories.

 

[TexasShadow]

Ooops. I didn't finish this thread. Got caught up in work, work and more work. And then off on another bike jaunt. Trying to get in as much as I can before the weather turns it's ugly nose and goes "Nananananaaaaa!!!!!" since I couldn't ride for nearly four months. I know that one morning I'll wake up to ice all over my prairie grass and it will look like delicate glass. Wheels slip and slide.

I recently visited where it all started, or at least what Texas is most noted for: the Panhandle, Southern Great Plains, El Llano Estacado. It's known by many names: I prefer the older New Mexican/Comanchera name, the Horizontal Yellow. Sadly, not much of the original prairie on the table top is present any more. Only glimpses mixed in with the boundary ecology in the canyons of the eastern Escarpment. Although, some ranches are now trying to restore portions or all of their holdings to original prairie grasses. Ironically, conservation and preservation is more apparent in New Mexico. (both states share the Llano Estacado)

We need more public preserves like the LBJ grasslands, national or state. Of all the states in the nation, Texas has the least public land. And not all private interests have the best intents. Afterall, it was private industrialized agribusiness that wiped out 2,500 years of prairie ecosytems on the Estacado within less than a century and caused the Dust Bowl of the '30's.

Enjoy the grasslands.

 

[klrno2]

Darn, I wanted to hear more about 'Maine in Texas'. You're right though, Texas is 95% privately owned, and I don't ever see that chaning. Of course, I can't blame the folk that own the land, if it was mine, I wouldn't want to give any of it up either.

 

[TexasShadow]

Darn, I wanted to hear more about 'Maine in Texas'.

Okay, you twisted my arms. Soon.

You're right though, Texas is 95% privately owned, and I don't ever see that chaning. Of course, I can't blame the folk that own the land, if it was mine, I wouldn't want to give any of it up either.

I understand and empathize. Our lizard brains, just like any animal, retain that territorial dominance. Isn't that the foundation of most, if not all wars? The Llano was no exception. In fact, it was probably the most famous battleground of this nation: between native peoples, Spaniards, French, Euroamericans, cattlemen and the pastorales. Now the battle between native ecology and mass consumerism.

It's attitudes that make the difference. History has clearly demonstrated misuse and abuse of the land and its resources. Which, when you consider the long term effects, eventually renders it useless. The Dust Bowl is the most perfect example.

In addition to restoration, conservation and preservation, another aim of the National Grasslands program (as well as National forests, parks, etc) is to teach and demonstrate sustainable use of the land and its resources. It can be done; it is in many parts of the country. The predominant attitude of private land holdings is consume and throw away, move on to the next. That attitude is slowly changing, just not changing quick enough. I'll probably get blasted for this, but this is more prevalent in Texas than any other state I've lived in. (California is an odd mixture of extremes: severe abuse and fanatical environmentalism.)

I expect that if I were a landowner of a large area of land such as the grasslands, prairies, or even canyons, I would bequeath all or a portion to a public system with stipulation that it be preserved as close to its natural state as possible. I'm just as territorial as the next person (maybe even more so ), but this is one area to put aside and override my self and consider the future.

I'm a biologist, naturalist and realist. I know humans and nature can co-exist, but we are becoming too disconnected from the land to know, understand and appreciate that. Public access -to enhance appreciation, education and demonstration- is imperative to reverse that trend.

 

[DaveC]

Like the Christmas Mountians?


Some kind of wranglin' goin' ons about that.