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Respoking A Wheel

Joined
Apr 18, 2007
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Location
Salado
The spokes on the XL350 were loose, bent and a couple were broke so I decided to respoke the wheel. On-line I could get it done for about $200 a wheel, including shipping at Buchanons. I didn't want to spend $400 for it so I decided to give it a try. First I ordered a wheel balancing/truing stand, spoke wrench and rubber liners from Pitposse for $100 shipped. I found a set of OEM DID spokes on e-bay for $45. They are advertised for an XL250, but from my research, the wheels for a 250 and 350 are the same. I didn't want to waste too much money if they didn't fit so I only ordered the rears.

First I measured the offset for the wheel on both sides.

HPIM1524.jpg


HPIM1526.jpg


I used a straight edge and tape measure as you can see.

The offset recorded on my "pad"

HPIM1528.jpg


Then I took the tire off the rim. The first side came off easy, but the second was a royal ****. I've never had so much trouble getting a tube tire off a rim. I finally ended up cutting the back side off so I could slip a screwdriver inbetween the bead and the tire and it fell right off.

Then, just for grins, I measured the roundness and runout on the rim as it was before I started. It was out of round about 90/1000ths, but pretty square when it rotated. It didn't feel that bad riding it.

HPIM1530.jpg


I chickened out and instead of taking the rim completely apart, I replaced the outside spokes one at a time and had to replace the inside spokes in pairs because they interfered with each other. Here, you can see one spoke removed and the general condition of all the spokes.

HPIM1533.jpg


The nipples screwed off with a regular screwdriver. They were aluminum and the new ones are steel with yellow cadium plating. The new ones are shorter than the originals and don't cover the entire threads of the spoke. I'm thinking of going back to the original nipples or ordering some replacements that are longer.

The wheel with a few spokes replaced.

HPIM1538.jpg


And is only 30/1000ths out of round which is close enough for me. Runout is about 20/1000ths. To tell the truth it doesn't feel that much smoother.

HPIM1539.jpg


It really wasn't hard to align the wheel. I snugged all the spokes down lightly, then measured the out of roundness and tightened the spokes on the high side and loosened the spokes on the low side. I did that about ten times and the rim was essentially round. It took about a minute each time.

Then I measured runout which was more than it was originally, about 50/1000ths. I tightened the spokes on the high side and loosened the spokes on the low side a few times then measured runout and roundness again. When I say tighten and loosen, I did it about 1/8th turn each time going in really small increments.

In all it took about an two hours from removing the tire to installing the new one. Maybe for the front I'll take the rim off the hub and do all the spokes at once just to see if it is any harder.

The finished rear wheel.

HPIM1540.jpg
 
It's my experience that if you are running some type of knobby tire, you will not notice anything less than 1 millimeter of runout.

It impressive that you were able to get that old wheel that true.
 
Very good job for your first time. It will get easier every time and you learn all kinds of shortcuts. Even on street tires, you would be surprised how much you can be out and not noticed. The more flexable the tires, nada nada nada. ;-) Thanks for posting.
 
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