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16-22SEP09 Western US MotoTour

Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Messages
366
Reaction score
7
Location
Seminole TX
First Name
Jeremiah
Day 1: 16SEP09 Hobbs, NM to North of Moab, UT - 700 Miles.

MAP

I had a meeting to attend Wednesday morning so I did not leave Hobbs, NM until a little after 900am. I saw dark clouds ahead and followed my better judgement and pulled over in Lovington, NM to put on my rain suit. Good idea. It rained for the next 200+ miles. My rainsuit was nice and dry by the time I pulled up in Rolando's driveway in Albuquerque, NM so it got rolled up and stashed.

Rolando is a nightshift truck driver. He had made a run on Tuesday night/Wednesday morning. The original plans were that he was supposed to have been sleeping while I was on my way to his house. He was too excited and couldn't get to sleep. This would not be good.

Off we go on US550...

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We made it to Cuba, NM when the clouds started getting dark. We pulled over to have a quick bite at my favorite Irish restaurant and put the rainsuits on. Not five minutes later, the heavy rains hit. We rode in the rain well into Shiprock, NM. The rains stopped for a minute at the CO/NM border on US491 and we were treated to a beautiful sunset.

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We continue riding and hit rain a few minutes later. We stopped for fuel in Monticello, UT. Our original plan had us camping somewhere around Monticello but somewhere around Monticello was covered with rain. We decided to try and find a room in Moab, UT. That did not work. Moab at Midnight is not a good place to look for a room. It had stopped raining about 15 miles back so we left Moab with the intention of finding a place to camp down the first dirt road we saw. The first road that looked suitable was the road to Gemini Bridges. We head up the road on our overloaded bikes in the dark to find ourselves stuck on a steep, narrow, very rocky and rough two track road. The first pullout we saw had a "NO CAMPING" sign. At 100am logic dictated that the only reason someone put up a "NO CAMPING" sign was that this place was at once a great place to camp. It really wasn't. But I was too tired to turn around and go back up the highway to look for another dirt road. The skies we clear so we didn't bother with the tents. Rolando threw his ground cloth and sleeping pad down and slept in his full riding gear and used his helmet as a pillow. I threw down my ground cloth, inflated my $20 air mattress (which rolls up smaller than a thermarest) and slept in my full riding gear minus the helmet. I carry a ski mask with me at all times (you never know when a ski mask will come in handy) and brought a pillow from home. From his tossing and turning I know that i would have slept better than him if I weren't waking up every time he would toss and/or turn. At 430am he finally gave up on getting and sleep and asked if I was ready to go. 3.5 hours of "sleep." This would not be good.
 
Day 2: 17SEP09 - North of Moab, UT to The Dalles, OR - 922 Miles.

MAP

Unfortunately, we rode through my favorite area of Utah in the dark. Sunrise came and illuminated a part of Utah that I had never seen. While beautiful, the southeast corner of Utah is still my favorite.

I love the early morning. The air is crisp and cool. The possibilities for the day are endless. My mind is at ease. Riding a motorcycle at dawn is my all-time favorite thing ever.

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Let's roll...

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Central Utah

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Then we made it to Fly-daho.

I was not very happy in that state. Lots of bugs and agriculture smells. Lots of hay clippings getting blown around on the highway and getting into your helmet. Statewide headwinds. Ridiculous traffic jams in Boise.

The Snake River Valley was great though....

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I am sure the rest of Idaho is wonderful. Just not along I84. I can understand that. I love New Mexico. All of New Mexico is great and wonderful and beautiful.

Except where I live.

Anyway.

We made it into Oregon an hour or so before sunset....

I really like Oregon.

A lot.

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It started to get chilly so we pulled over to put our jacket liners in.

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It was very dark soon after and didn't get to see much. We passed through a BIG, cold, sweet-smelling mountain range past La Grande, OR that was most likely very beautiful. Then we dropped into Pendleton. Earlier I stated that I liked Oregon. A lot. Not so much between Pendleton and Arlington. I was very tired and my brain was not working very well but that was the foulest smelling area I have ever been through. You should smell where I live. Dairies, oilfields, refineries, gas plants, etc. Yeah. Pendleton to Arlington has my hometurf beat. It was very dark but the arcsodium lights told me that these foul smells were foul smells of the local industries. I don't know what those industries are but they smell bad. One area smelled like it's primary purpose in life was to exchange sweet smelling air with air that smells like rotten fermenting carrots. Another area smelled of dairy feedlots. Dairy feedlots whose cattle are fed rotting beaver hides. I think there was one place that the locals were trying to combat the foul smells by burning creme-de-menthe schnapps torches which smelled kinda nice in a minty-burny kind of way. That was soon overpowered by a fifteen mile stretch of the rotten fermenting carrots. About that time I was blessed with severe sinus congestion and I decided that the world past Arlington was gonna be OK.

For quite a while I have noticed that Rolando is getting farther and farther behind me. Remember that he has not had any sleep for a while. I love riding with Rolando because Rolando is Japanese for mellow. Dude never complains about anything. I was starting to seriously worry about him. He would catch up to me and then get behind a car and simply not pass them. I could tell which lights were his when I would get way ahead so I kept going. Our original plan had us getting to Cascade Locks, OR but so far our original plan had not been working out so well.

We stopped for fuel in Rufus, OR (or somewhere around there...I just can't remember but it looks about right on the map) and Rolando was obviously losing a hardfought battle with pure fatigue. We decided that we should get a room at one of the three motels there. No vacancy. Getting a room at midnight in Rufus is about as fun as getting a room in Moab at midnight. We pulled our bikes up to the fuel pumps for our first experience with State Madated Full Service Station Attendents. Rolando's fuel guy looked like a real cool cat. I think the town was named after attendant that turned the pump on for me. Sure he might not practice good personal hygiene, sure he might scare small children, but he did know the location of the closest motel.

20 miles down the road.

This would not be good.

I didn't think Rolando would make it but there was nowhere to camp that would not require trespassing and our brains were not working well enough to be resourceful and find somewhere to camp anyways.

And Rufus was starting to creep me out.

Off we go to the next town.

NO VACANCY signs illuminated the valley.

Back on the freeway. The next exit took us on the business loop of The Dalles, OR.

We got a room!!!

Relief.

We had a tight schedule to keep. Places to be. People to meet.

We overslept.

This would not be good.
 
Day 3: 18SEP09 - The Dalles, OR to Newport, OR - 323 miles.

MAP


The original plan has us waking up early for three reasons. 1) to get through Portland, OR early to beat traffic, 2) to have breakfast with my buddy Karl, and 3) to make it all the way down the Oregon Coast.

That did not work.

So we overslept because we each thought that "there is no need to set my alarm because he always sets his...."

Oh well. It's a vacation. We live our normal day-to-day lives by starting early and without much sleep. We can get away with going against the original plan a time or two.

We were in the motel parking lot packing our bikes up at about 10am when out of the room next to us walks out a VERY intense looking old guy. He is wearing a DAV cap, wearing an ARMY tshirt, and has a Special Forces bumper sticker on his car. He is a VERY intense looking guy. He looks to be in his 80s but he also looks like he could probably mop the floor with both of us at the same time. I am typically not afraid of anything (except clowns and midgets.....but in a good way) but it is not good when a WWII special forces veteran is giving the evil eye to our German motorcycles.

I saw a tackle box in his car so I asked him how the fishing was. Turns out he was his honeymoon and on his way to Montana to do some fishing with his new son-in-law who is a hunting/fishing guide. He had outlived 5 women so far and looked like he would live another 20 years. Then out walks his new trophy wife. Easily 20 years his junior....picture a silver haired Peg Bundy.

That guy was awesome.

It was time to go....

We pass through the Columbia River Gorge en route to Portland...

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We made it to Portland and met up with Karl who treated us to lunch at The Press Club.

The Press Club is in the historic neighborhood of downtown Portland. Where I'm from, the downtown historic neighborhoods of the nearest cities are places to avoid. Not so much in Portland. This was not the gang infested drug den slum I was anticipating. It was all clean and friendly. People were riding around on bicycles and walking down the street. For fun. Where I'm from the only people I see riding bicycles are 40something Methheads riding around on pink girls 10-speeds, dragging lawnmowers with one hand and looking for something to steal. The only people i see walking down the streets are 30something Methheads who have not developed the skills to steal pink girls 10-speeds.

Portland is really nice.

So we went to The Press Club. I was totally out of my element but I was very comfortable there.

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And sat outside and ate some great sandwiches.

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Karl and Rolando

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Thanks for everything Karl.

It was time to go.

We go up into Washington for a few minutes the cross back into Oregon.

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I was so happy to catch Mt St Helens in the background and Rolando sensed my happiness and gave me a muscleman pose.

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Excellent!!!

So we make it to Astoria, OR.

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Exactly.

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The streets are VERY steep...

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Where I'm from we don't have fish and chips. We have Long John Silvers. BOOOOO!!!! This is where you get fish and chips...

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Has anyone ever seen the movie Goonies???

I have.

Here's the museum where that kid's dad worked...

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This is what I would look like if I was the thug brother in Goonies and just got out of jail.

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Has anyone ever seen PeeWee's Big Adventure???

I have.

Remember Large Marge??? We met her. She saw us taking pictures of each other in front of the jail and offered to take a pic of the two of us. She scared me. And i am not afraid of anything but clowns, midgets, and random disgruntled special forces vets. So we agreed and gave her our cameras...

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I don't see jail in Rolando's future...me on the other hand....

ummmm....

I saw a cool sign on top of a gas pump.

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Anyway.

Let's go see the ocean!!!!

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Wow!!!

I am at peace here.

The coastal forests are thick.

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We made it to Tillamook where I saw this in the distance.

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An old blimp hangar turned into a HUGE air museum. I had seen pics on the interwebz and wanted to check it out but it was close to sunset and therefore closed.

Speaking of sunset.

The original plan had us camping out somewhere between Gold Beach OR and Redwood National Park. We were in Lincoln City, OR at sunset and there was a storm blowing in form the ocean. We made it to Newport, OR and just got a room. We would need our rest as we were behind on mileage and we had a real cool guy waiting for us in Reno the next day....
 
Day 4: 19SEP09 - Newport, OR to South of Reno, NV - 613 Miles.

MAP


The original plan had us riding down the Pacific coast all the way down Oregon into Northern California. We overslept yesterday and had lunch with Karl instead.

We admit defeat but we will be back to defeat the OR coast in a year or two....

So we left our motel room in Newport, OR early and rode in the rain all the way to Grants Pass, OR. As you can tell in the above posts, I don't take pictures in the rain. I really like my camera and my wife does not like me enough to replace my camera if I ruin it by taking pictures in the rain.

It sure was a nice ride though....

So we make a fuel stop in Medford, OR where I shed the rain gear. On our way out of the fuel station parking lot, I get verbally assaulted by a whitetrash speed freak riding shotgun in her baby daddy fartcannonmuffler equipped 86 honda Civic because I was riding in a parking lot that they were trying to cut across to make a right hand turn instead of waiting at a traffic light. As is customary where I come from, I stopped my bike, turned around, shrugged my shoulders, and held my hands out palms up as a means to ask her and/or her baby daddy if they would like to discuss the issue a little more in depth. They kept going but almost had another wreck with a BIG turbodiesel dually....Goes to show that rednecks are a lot like coyotes and will adapt and settle anywhere in the country....

Welcome to California....

I watched Mt. Shasta for quite a while...

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That's about it for pics for today. Over the entire trip I shot 647 pics. Most of those shots were taken while riding. 458 of those were either VERY blurry, almost duplicate to the 2 pictures before and after, or were shots of my arm, glove, or tankbag....

We made it south of Reno where our new buddy Rob gave us beer and offered us a place in his yard to throw our tents down. And if we didn't want to fool with our tents, his HUGE camp trailer was up for grabs.

SCORE!!!

He figured we were tired of being on the bikes so he loaded us into his pickup and took us to the Eldorado Casino for their awesome buffet so I could eat till I puked. I ate six plates of shrimp, steaks, prime rib, mussels, and crablegs. Rob and Rolando were long finished and didn't appear to have the patience to sit there watching me eat and I told them it would be at least another hour till I was full. So I told them I was finished. Then I ate two coconut macaroons. Then I was finished.

Too bad I left my camera in my tankbag.

We proceeded to get a very detailed tour of downtown Reno and we learned things that could only be learned from a native. Reno is a very mellow place. Saturday night on the "strip" and there was very little vehicle or pedestrian traffic. It was nice to be able to enjoy looking at the buildings and not be holding up a crowd...

Thanks for everything, Rob!!!!
 
Day 5 : 20SEP09 - South of Reno, NV to Las Vegas, NV - 476 Miles.

MAP

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Yosemite Nat'l Park is on the other side of these mountains. Those white spots are snow.

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Yesterday, Rob recommended this route for us. He said the CA120 was well worth it. Right he was! None of the pics came out very well though...

Back in Nevada.

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Rolando said it was 105* here at Goldfield, NV.

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Clint Eastwood Unforgiven mural on the back of an RV.

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Since the trip started, we had not seen temperatures over 80. Where I am from, it is always miserable all of the time but I was getting spoiled to moderate climates.

I heard that Las Vegas has air conditioning.

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We got checked in and Rolando found out that his dad and brother were in Las Vegas. He went down to see about meeting up with them and I took a shower.

Where I am from, everyone drinks a lot of alcoholic beverages and then drives around until they get in a wreck or get arrested. In Las Vegas, people stand around and drink alcoholic beverages on the sidewalk. When in Rome....

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Day 6 : 21SEP09 - Las Vegas, NV to Silver City, NM - 601 Miles.

MAP

The original plan was that Rolando and I would split up today so that he could go hang out in California with some family for a couple of days. That actually happened. According to plan.

Leaving Las Vegas.

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I stopped for a Sausage McMangler in Boulder City, NV at my favorite Irish restaurant .

Hoover Dam.

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l-o-w water levels....

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I stopped for fuel in Kingman, AZ and decided to try to ride nonstop until my next fuel stop. I have an adventure tank with a drilled filler neck.

Near Flagstaff AZ

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Near Holbrook, AZ

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Near St Johns, AZ

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Finally approaching Alpine, AZ

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Where I stop for fuel.

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353.6 miles nonstop. I beat my previous record on this bike by 30 miles. I got really good mileage on this tankful so if there would have been a fuel stop between Alpine, AZ and Silver City, NM I would have made 400 or so miles....

I love this bike.

Onward to Silver City.

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Where I am from, It is customary for me to stop at the liquor store before I get to my brother's house to get a twelve pack. We typically drink Shiner Bock but they didn't have it in a 12 pack box so I got Negra Modelo Dark and a bottle of Sailor Jerry Rum. It is also customary for my brother to pick up a half dozen chile relleno burritos from Don Juan's before I get there.

A good time is had by all!

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ay 7 : 22SEP09 - Silver City, NM to Hobbs, NM - 641 Miles.

MAP

Where I come from, the roads suck. So anytime I am around SW New Mexico, I have to sneak into Arizona to ride "The Devil's Highway." US191 Between Clifton, AZ and Alpine, AZ. Today that detour added 200 miles and 5 hours to the trip but I wasn't ready for my trip to be over. Plus I love this road. After everywhere I have been on this trip and everything I have seen, this is still my favorite road. 100 miles of switchbacks, twisties, curves, swoops that take you from the high desert to the tall cool pines.

MAP

Ah yeah....

Typically I travel very light and when I am on this road I do not have my panniers or my topcase. Let alone all the crap I had in them on this trip. The original plan had us camping everynight except for Las Vegas and eating oatmeal and dehydrated food instead of sausage McManglers....

This is how I pack for a three day trip of coach surfing...
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Much better for the very tight switchbacks at Gray's Peak....

Being on this road was the first time on this that I really felt all the extra weight. I usually ride pretty aggresively through here and the GS wasn't having it today....So i just slowed down a bit and took some grainy pics!!!

First off, check out Clifton, AZ...what a cool town.

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Then there's the HUGE open pit mine beside the road for 12 miles.

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Day 7 : 22SEP09 - Part 2

The craziest thing about the whole Clifton/Morenci area is the hillside cemetery. The mine totally dominates the whole area and the original town of Morenci is long gone. The big pit is 1000ft below where that town once stood. But the cemetery has been left alone.

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The above were drive-by pics from this trip....below are a couple of closeups from one of my other trips....

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Crazy.

Back to the road.

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Watch out for the locals.

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Of course I couldn't take pics in the really tight stuff and some of the curvy pics were crap but looking at the map should give you the basic idea.

All the great scenery, great roads, and cool clean air that I have experienced over the last seven days do not help me want to go home to where none of those things exist but I sure do love my girls and I can't wait to see them....

Here's the downward spiral of scenery to get home....

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I even enjoy being in the area of the above pics....

Here's a picture outside of Roswell, NM. I am still 120 miles from home and this is where it starts getting bad.

Where I'm from, the only wild trees are those that grow in drainage ditches or over flowing septic tanks.....

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It's getting dark so you won't be able to see where I am from....

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Still 70 miles from home...

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That's all.

Thanks.
 
That was an epic trip. Thanks for sharing it with us.
 
Thanks for the good words!!!


Rolando sent some pics he shot of me on the road....

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That was quite a trip. Thanks so much for sharing it. Hopefully, my two sons and I will do one that long before I die. We've been on several trips to Colorado from the Dallas area, but nothing like this. In the future I think!
 
Great trip and a great ride report.
I noticed one error. One photo is captioned "near Tucson". Flagstaff maybe, but not Tucson.
 
Great trip and a great ride report.
I noticed one error. One photo is captioned "near Tucson". Flagstaff maybe, but not Tucson.

fixt.

thanks. i really knew better...just hard remembering locations of all those pics sometimes...
 
I did the 666 on 999 with five other bikes. Have to agree, what a great road. It's great to view it thru someone else's pictures. Great ride report!
 
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