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Motohermandad 2010, Tampico, Mexico

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Location
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Finally, a ride report for our latest trip to Mexico, the 3rd annual Motohermandad 2010 motorcycle rally over Memorial Day weekend. I haven't finished the write-up, but maybe posting the start will spur me toward the finish. As usual, you can find more pictures on Picasa at: http://picasaweb.google.com/andyc740/Motohermandad2010#

The trip wasn't about Herman's moto, or Herman's dad, hermandad means brotherhood in Spanish. A big group of us went last year from Corpus Christi to the rally. It was a smaller crew this time; only Dale, Rick and I went. Sandi, Dale's wife, wanted to go in the worst way, but we talked her out of it, due to health and the political climate. It wasn't advice she accepted easily.

The entire state of Tamaulipas is under a Travel Advisory from the U.S. State Department due to the ongoing conflict between the Gulf Coast Cartel, another group called the Zetas, and government forces in the area. News reportage is spotty due to threats from the GCG and Zetas against the press. However, some research turned up several blogs that keep a running account of conditions and incidents in Northern Mexico. Two Spanish-language blogs are Blog del Narco and Reynosa Libre. An English-language blog covering the same subject is Borderland Beat. Reading these blogs is pretty sobering. There are too many people caught in the crossfire.

However, after following the blogs for a while and checking with people in Mexico, we decided to go anyway. We were warned NOT to ride at night and to stop at all checkpoints, regardless whether they are government or cartel checkpoints. So, 2:30 Thursday afternoon, May 29th, the three of us saddled up our mounts at the usual Stripes convenience store and headed out of town, forgetting to take the usual departure picture.

The route is pretty straightforward, hit Hwy 77 from Corpus Christi, cut over to Hwy 281 at Riviera, then head south for about 8 hours. Total distance to Tampico from Corpus: just under 500 miles.

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It's a ride I've done several times a year for the past several years, so it's beginning to seem routine. We stopped for gas (for Rick's bike) and a drink in Falfurrias, then continued on to the border crossing at Pharr-Rio Bravo (our usual crossing point). After exchanging money, topping off the gas tanks and renewing the paperwork for Dale and I and our bikes (Rick still had current papers), we headed off into Reynosa traffic, hitting highway Hwy 97 south. When we got out of town and crossed the overpass for the new shortcut under construction to the Pharr-Rio Bravo bridge, we saw traffic using the road. The customs official at the Aduana checkpoint just down the road assured us it was open all the way to the bridge. Cool! Now we can avoid all the Reynosa traffic on the return trip.

Because we didn't want to ride after dark, we pushed on without dinner until we reached the "Y", the intersection of Hwy 97 with Hwy 180, which runs between Matamoros and Ciudad Victoria. It's pretty close to the halfway point of the ride. We didn't see the usual number of family sedans speeding down the highway. Traffic seemed to be mostly locals and truckers.

Arriving about 7:30, we found $30 rooms at the Rancho Viejo hotel and ate at a taco stand across the highway for a few dollars apiece. The ladies from the dozen or so taco stands line up along the edge of the highway yelling out their menus at anyone that looks remotely interested in eating. Some seem able to reach the same decibel levels as the jake brakes on the trucks passing through.

I like the landscaping at the hotel, the rooms are clean and the AC fairly cold.

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Though it's spread-out and mostly empty, they're busy adding more rooms.

This is one of the taco stands along the highway. I took the picture on a trip south last year.

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Dale checked out the pool a bit, but we sacked out fairly early, wanting to head on in the morning.
 
Part II - The Rest of the Way to Tampico

In the morning we got up, coffee'ed up at the Oxxo and headed out. The military had a checkpoint on the highway at San Fernando, but they waved us through. At the next checkpoint, just north of the intersection heading towards Soto la Marina, we were stopped again, but waved on our way after a question or two about where we were headed.

Coming into Soto, we found out exactly how far Rick's 95th Anniversary Ultra Classic will go on a tank of gas. It hit reserve 150 miles from when we tanked up at the border, with 35 miles still left to go to Soto, then ran out of gas rolling up to the pumps in Soto la Marina. We had deliberately stretched it out to find out his range. Dale carried a siphon hose and could have put another gallon or so in his tank and still made it to the station. His Gold Wing has a pretty good range. My Trophy falls somewhere in between the two, usually hitting reserve at about 175 miles, then running out just past 200.

We had a late breakfast/early lunch in Soto, winding up at El Torito, just a block west of the bus station and enjoyed talking with Hector, the proprietor, chief cook and bottlewasher. Hector spoke quite a bit of English, having lived a number of years in the states. He asked us when we'd be coming back through (Sunday morning) and said he'd have something special for us. Sounded good to us.

I enjoy the ride down through Soto passing through Aldama, hitting the Ciudad Victoria - Tampico highway about 50 miles north of Tampico. The first 50 miles from the turnoff to Soto la Marina is now new road all the way, nice sweepers, wide shoulders, little traffic. We usually see one patrol car on the highway, parked on the shoulder about 10 miles north of Soto, but he wasn't there this time. The 50 or so miles between Soto and Aldama is older pavement with some potholes and no shoulders and a bit more traffic, but it runs through some nice hills and has some pretty views along the way. I saw the spot where my oil pump went out last July, returning from Huatusco. The last 20 miles from Aldama to the main highway are flatter and straighter.

This is a shot Sandi took last year on our way to Tampico. The Acacia trees are gorgeous when they're in bloom.

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The road crosses the Tropic of Cancer about 35 miles south of Soto, but the sign is between two curves and I never manage to see it in time to stop. I was determined to get a picture on the way back. Palm trees become pretty frequent and there are some nice views of some mountains to the west and a reservoir or two along the road with lots of drowned trees.

There were several burned out cars in the ditches on the side of the road. We couldn't tell if they were the result of mechanical problems or attacks and we didn't stop to take pictures or look for bullet holes.

We rolled through Aldama without stopping, then took a butt break when we hit the highway again. The last 50 miles into Tampico is mostly 4-lane divided highway, but traffic is heavy, potholes frequent and construction ongoing. We reviewed our route to the rally at our stop, just in case we got separated, but had no problems. We also offered to race a couple girls on a scooter, but they didn't take us up on it. We were stopped again at the checkpoint just north of Tampico and were asked to show our papers, but were then waved on our way after we produced them. We've learned to keep our papers where they're easily accessible.

In Tampico, Motohermandad is right on the beach, about 1/2 a mile from the Rio Panuco. By far, the easiest way to get to the rally without getting lost in town (very easy to do and the cops are busy rebuilding their reputation for having their hands out when they see gringos going by) is to take the turnoff to the Playa Miramar at the north end of town, then follow it to the beach road. About 10 miles, not much traffic, one stoplight, just a couple topes (speedbumps), then follow the beach road past the hotels and the turnarounds until you get to the end.

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We pulled into the rally site on the beach at Tampico about 12:30 and found Alex, the rally organizer without any trouble. They were getting set up for the rally, registration hadn't opened yet, and only a few people were there. Alex was his usual effusive, friendly self and parked us under one of the canopies and said we were welcome to use it for the rally if we managed to hang on to it. We rounded up a table, several chairs, hung up our Bike Blessing banner and dug out some of the 100 Spanish Biker bibles we brought with us to give away to folks at the rally (our normal procedure at Mexican bike rallies).

The stages were more elaborate than last year.

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And we were soon set up. It seems kind of funny to see the CMA banner hanging from a canopy with a giant beer logo, but that's just how things are in Mexico. We certainly don't want to trailer our canopy all the way down there. Rocinante looks right at home enjoying the shade, doesn't she?

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I left Dale and Rick at the rally while I went to find our hotel and get checked in. This year I made reservations before we came down. We were sharing a triple room at the Hotel Real del Mar, just off the beach road, about 2 miles from the rally site. I was told the rate was $100 a night when I made reservations, but when I got to the hotel, they rented me the room for about $75 a night. That was a nice break.
 
Part III - Setting Up at the Rally

Back at the rally, I relieved Dale and Rick and they went to check in and get squared away at the hotel. The next thing I knew, several military planes flew overhead and a bunch of paratroopers jumped out. I thought it was cool of Alex to arrange the demostration for the rally goers, though almost nobody was there yet to see it. He must have some pull with the military. I like all the "Vees" in this picture:

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The group with the globo del muerte was there again, setting up. A bystander later on at the rally told me he'd seen one at a circus when they ran four motorcycles inside it at the same time. I told Alex I wanted to volunteer to be one of the people standing inside it with the rider going round and round me, but I didn't get the chance. Maybe next year. How cool would it be to have video taken from inside the globe of the bikes doing their thing?

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A bit later, some fellow came by and like we usually do, I asked him if he'd like a bible. He accepted it, then sat down about 10 feet away and read for more than an hour. The next time I looked up, he was gone. Very few people at the rallies turn down a bible, especially when they find out they're free. I just wish their print was a bit bigger.

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Still waiting for Dale and Rick to return, I wandered around the rally and Isak asked me to do bike blessings for his stable of Harleys. I asked him if he was a dealer and he said, "No", they were all his. He just likes Harleys.

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Some Mexicans like REALLY pointy-toed cowboy boots. This would make a great cockroach killer!

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Part IV - Things are starting to roll.

Registration finally got underway at the rally. It was P$250 or $20 U.S. and included a rally T-shirt, a nice rally hat, a free drink, keychain, and several other goodies, and some raffle tickets.

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One fellow, Marcelo, brought greetings from Manolo in Huatusco. Apparently, he's a neighbor of Manolo's. None of the CMA-Mexico people made it to the Tampico rally this year. We missed seeing them.

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FYI: I think it's pretty cool to have a T-shirt with my age on it! Having a rally right on the beach is also pretty cool.

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This is Alex, the rally organizer, and his wife. They're REALLY cool.

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and I've got to learn not to take pictures facing into the sun.
 
Re: Part IV - Things are starting to roll.

This is Alex, the rally organizer, and his wife. They're REALLY cool.

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and I've got to learn not to take pictures facing into the sun.

Or force the camera flash to fire ;-)
 
Part V - Friday Afternoon

In the U.S., bike rallies are about the bikers. In Mexico, rallies are as much a spectator event as anything else. Spectators have free access to the rallies and often make up at least half the crowd. They wander around gawking at all the goofy bikers, take pictures of the bikes, and often ask if they can sit on the bikes for a picture. Invariably, the bike's owner will say yes and the spectators go home with some cool pictures from the rally. Only bikers that want to bring their bikes onto the rally site, get a T-shirt, etc, will pay the registration and get a wristband.

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A bunch of students wandered through after school was out, wanted pictures with the bikes and spent some time talking to us.

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That little kid is obviously overwhelmed by the whole experience and the exotic gringos.
 
Good stuff. Keep it coming. This was a great pick me up this morning. I was kind of dragging and reading about you all giving away the bibles got my spirits up.
 
Part VI - Mexican Bike Rally Bikes

And then there's the bikes. Bikes at Mexico bike rallies come in all shapes and sizes.

Jesse's 1980 FLH (said he restored it himself):
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Extra points for the first person to identify the donor bike for this bobber. (No fair looking at the Picasa picture.)

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I saw this bike on Saturday. According to it's owner (his dad bought it from the original owner years ago), it's a 1950's Islo. The parts were manufactured in Italy, but assembled in Mexico. It had a pretty interesting story to go with it.

Apparently all the milk delivery people in San Luis Potosi rode these bikes delivering milk back in the 1950's and '60's, and some still do. Their nickname in SLP is "Lechero" (milkman). The owner said body and frame parts are no longer available, but everything needed to rebuild the motors is still being manufactured and sold. If anybody's really interested in one, let's go poke around San Luis Potosi for a few days and we could probably find one.

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This auction page has a good write-up on Islo (no idea how long it will stay active). http://www.batorauctions.com/2010_Fell_Islo_Carrera.htm

Here's the gist of the description:

Moto Islo was founded in 1955 by Sr. Isidro Lopez in Saltillo, Coahuila, Mexico, shortly after a fact finding mission to Italy to study the Italian motorcycle industry. His dream of creating motorcycles was fulfilled when he contracted with a number of Italian motorcycle component manufacturers to supply all the parts necessary to assemble motorcycles in his new plant in Mexico. At that time (and even today) motorcycle manufacturers ordered components from a large selection of parts manufacturers. Only a couple of Italian factories made their entire machines. Isidro chose Franco Morini engines, Ceriani suspension, Pieracci frames and tanks, Delorto carburetors, Giuliare seats and Grimeca brakes for his new bikes. He chose the name Islo for his motorcycles, using initials from his name. Assembly began in 1955 and for the first year or so, specialized in creating motorcycles for delivery men and post men who found his machines tough and durable. The market place loved them, and the plant kept very busy. Islo produced more motorcycles than the Gilera assembly plant in Argentina in the same years.​
 
As the evening wore on, we ate dinner at one of the beach restaurants pointed out to us by a new friend. The grilled shrimp tasted pretty good.

Later, the stunters were doing their thing in the stunt corral right in front of us and one rider got a bit too enthusiastic with a stoppie. I watched him as the bike came right over and he did a face plant on the concrete with the bike landing on top of him. Some medics showed up immediately (an ambulance was stationed at the rally) and I think the final verdict was a separated shoulder when they hauled him off in the ambulance. Dale went to rescue our chair after the ambulance left.

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A few bikes were doing burnouts. People were stopping by our tent to talk with us and we had some long discussions at the rally. I think Mexicans are feeling worried and unsettled with all the violence happening in their country and they are taking a long, hard look at their lives. It makes for some fertile ground for ministry.

The evening wound up with a Presidents' Meeting back at the hotel. The rally organizers encourage all the club presidents or their representatives to meet and hash over anything on their mind. Last year, when Lefty (our president) attended the meeting, there were about 40 people there. This year, there was about 20. They mentioned many people hadn't come to Tampico because they were leery about travelling. Some folks from Tampico itself hadn't come. There wasn't anything significant to the discussion, just the chance to spend some time and get to know each other a bit better.

One thing did come up, Mexico's Dia de la Marina was June 1st and the Mexican Navy was in town for a big exercise that would be attended by Mexio's president. They were closing the beach for their exercises Saturday and Sunday until 2:00 in the afternoon and the rally would have to be shut down until that time. We were welcome to walk down to the waterfront to watch, but no vehicles were allowed in the area. They said this was a one-time occurrence as the site for the Dia de la Marina rotates between towns on the Gulf Coast and the Pacific Coast. This year just happened to be Tampico's turn. Well, that explained the paratroopers I'd seen earlier that morning.

Rick hadn't shown up for the meeting. I knew as the only Biker for Christ member at the rally, he wanted to be there. Turned out he had run out of gas on the way back across town and neither Dale nor I noticed. Shame on us. A fellow he had met at the rally was in the area, went with him to a gas station and got him going again. Rick was rather peeved with us when we were all back at the hotel, and with good cause.
 
Great pics and trip log. Donor bike for bobber looks like an old Connie!

Right the first time! Man, that was too easy.:clap::clap:

I appreciate the thanks (and those from others, too). I just get wrapped up typing everything up and forget to respond, but I do appreciate feedback, back pats, etc.
 
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Part VIII - Tropical Morning

After the night at the hotel, Dale and I were up early to enjoy the morning. From our balcony, we could see some of the Navy ships parading up and down the beach several miles offshore, so we walked down to the beach to get a better look.

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Here's a shot of the hotel itself.

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We had a nice view of a tank farm and some flares with downtown Tampico in the background:

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We had done a bike blessing for this fellow's motorcycle two years earlier at a bike rally in Matehuala (The infamous mudhole trip. We spit on rain!):

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We didn't give him this sticker:

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And another fellow asked us to pray for him, his wife and his bike. Dale commented his saddle must be pretty uncomfortable (talking about the pliers on it if you're bad-joke impaired):

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and then it was time for breakfast.

I have a hard time writing these things and know I'm probably putting in too much detail, giving too much of a blow-by-blow account, but I enjoy the trips, remember them pretty vividly, and so wind up talking about almost everything (I did leave out Rick's stomach troubles Friday night. You have to give me points for that.)
 
Part IX - Breakfast with Andrés

We decided to eat breakfast at a small taco place (the place was small, not the tacos) across the street from the hotel where we'd stayed the year before. Another biker pulled up and we invited him to sit down and eat with us. He said his name was Andrés. We had given him a bible the day before and he'd spent several hours reading it. Turned out to be the same guy I had taken the picture of reading the bible. He'd been looking for us at the rally, but hadn't run into us, so was happy to find us eating breakfast.

The trees across the street from the taco stand:

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Our hotel last year:

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Andrés (with his Vulcan 1500 seen over his shoulder):

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Dale wasn't feeling too well at breakfast, settled for a coke and decided to go back to the hotel. Rick, Andrés and I went down to the beach to see what we could of the Navy's practice run for Dia de la Marina.
 
Part X - At the Malecón

Down at the Rio Panuco ship channel (or the Malecón, as the Spanish-speakers call it), we spent the morning talking and waiting around for something to happen. I walked out to the end of the jetty and spent some time taking pictures. Helicopters and planes flew overhead sporadically, making us think things were getting started, but they were just teasers.

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Andrés told us many stories about his life and travels.

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I took some pictures of the beach (the blue canopies mark the rally site),

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and watched the harbor patrol cleaning fish they had caught.

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Some Christian graffiti:

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Part XI - Dress Rehearsal, Día de la Marina

It was after lunch when things finally started happening. There was a lot going on for a while.

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and then it was over. We headed back to the rally to check in before someone commandeered our spot.
 
Part XII - Motohermandad Saturday Afternoon

The rally was pretty busy Saturday. I walked around a bit, but mostly stayed at our tent, talking with whoever happened by and wanted to talk. Dale didn't show and Rick left to go check on him at the hotel. Some fellow spent the better part of an hour telling me my view of Christ was wrong; Christ was a sort of spirit that had been around forever and was a part of everybody. He was busy digging out hand-drawn posters to show me how it worked, when Rick showed back up. He tired of discussing theology with Rick pretty quickly and moved on, I guess to point out others' lack of knowledge.

People in Mexico generally have a good time when they can.

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Not all candid shots work too well. After I commented on his name, Baltazar Reyes (picking at his chin on the right) told me he was the second in a line of four generations named Baltazar Reyes in his family. His family name, Reyes, means "Kings". "Baltazar" is one of the three wise men, or kings, that visited Jesus after his birth. Baltazar's father was born on January 6th, Epiphany, also known as "Día de los Reyes" in Mexico, the day celebrating the arrival of the three kings in Bethleham. So, his father was named "Baltazar." He passed the name on to his son (the Baltazar in the picture), who gave his son the same name, who also passed the name along to his son. They don't share the same birthday.

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A fellow in the next tent told me this guy rode his Triumph all over Mexico, so after he had backed in and parked it, I went over to talk to him. He showed me some very nice large pictures of his trips, pictures of his family, and spent quite a while explaining his philosophy of life. He looked very deeply in my eyes and told me he saw a bit of egotism there, but if I could get rid of that, I would do OK. I imagine he's right.

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This lady became my new best friend (don't tell my wife) and made me take my glasses off when she took my picture so my blue eyes would show up.

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And this fellow was one of three or four people circulating around the rally collecting all the empty beer and pop cans.

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Rick eventually showed up and said Dale was still holed up in the hotel. He had got him some crackers and something to drink, run an errand or two and finally made it back. He and I went for an early supper, and I went to check on Dale. Dale was pretty wiped out. Something he had eaten had definitely disagreed with him, but he was slowly recovering. I got him some more crackers to eat and some gatorade, and went to rejoin Rick.

The rally was solid people by this time, and many of them were fairly well lit.

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We gave away the few remaining bibles (We'd brought more than 100 with us.), packed up our stuff and left. In the process of jockeying my bike out, a neighboring bike started to go over, and when I lunged for it, Rocinante started to tip over and wound up breaking off an ear, or a mirror if you want to call it that. I hate those no-speed tip-overs.

All in all, it had been quite a rally. I went home with a number of names and addresses of people we had met and talked with. It had been the most productive rally we had attended in the past two years. Our ultimate goal for our Mexico trips is to see a CMA chapter started in northern Mexico, capable of doing their own outreach at bike rallies. This was the first time the goal seemed feasible. CMA does have several chapters in Mexico, namely Huatusco and Guadalajara, and we have close ties with them, but they are too far south to make it to the rallies in the upper end of the country.

We were invited by one of our contacts at the rally to attend their first rally in Saltillo in July, Moto-Fest 2010, sponsored by Los Dinosaurios, July 23rd through 25th. We're already making plans to be there. You're welcome to ride along.
 
Part XII - Heading Home

We got up reasonably early at the hotel. Dale was feeling better but pretty weak. He wasn't really looking forward to the 500-mile ride home, but knew he had to do it (we've all be there at one time or another), so we gassed up, coffee-ed up and headed out.

Once out of Tampico, our first stop was at a fairly nice restaurant in Aldama, about 75 miles up the road, for some breakfast.

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When Rick got on his bike, he noticed a big spider on his speedometer and got rather excited. Dale got rid of it for him.

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Farther up the road, I surprised Dale and Rick when I pulled over to take some pictures at the Tropic of Cancer (finally). Guess I'd forgotten to mention I was planning to do that, and it came up pretty suddenly.

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Going through Soto la Marina, we remembered we'd promised Hector we would stop there, so we pulled in, even though we'd eaten about an hour and a half earlier in Aldama. Hector fed us some stewed goat. It was pretty good stuff. Dale stuck with his coke.

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This picture of Hector and I came out a bit blurry. Probably because I'd eaten too much.

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If you want to eat at Hector's in Soto, look for the bus station on the highway with the roof that points up in the air over the road. Asador el Torito is just one block behind it. You will see it from the highway on the south side of the street.

We gassed up leaving Soto, then I surprised Dale and Rick again several hours later when I pulled over to take a picture or two of a school I'd seen on the way down. This looks like a typical squatters' settlement, where the campesinos just move in on someone's land and claim it. This was more common back in the '60's and '70's when people had a lot more socialist sentiment. Many of the ejidos (farm cooperatives) started this way, I believe.

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Once past the aduana checkpoint, south of Reynosa, we tried the new bypass and it took us right to the bridge. One overpass was closed to traffic but we dealt with that. It cut about 30 minutes off our usual trip through Reynosa, especially when I get confused for the signs to Hwy 2 and turn too early.

Then it was back across the bridge, clear US customs, call the wives, change our leftover pesos, get something to eat, and head on up the highway. It did take a bit longer than usual to make it back to Corpus, due to stopping to put on raingear for one thunderstorm (we spit on rain!), and getting ambushed by a Dairy Queen, but we did make it home.

It was a great trip. Thanks for riding along!
 
Re: Part XII - Heading Home

Farther up the road, I surprised Dale and Rick when I pulled over to take some pictures at the Tropic of Cancer (finally). Guess I'd forgotten to mention I was planning to do that, and it came up pretty suddenly.

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Great trip. Good photos.
Re. the "incidents" in Northern Mexico, they still happen. The blogs that you mention are good starting points. You can also check #Reynosa and #Reynosafollow on Twitter. They are mainly in Spanish, but if you ask for help in English, someone will try to help you.
Re. the Tropic of Cancer marker, I took some photos there about 30 years ago, and it was clean of graffiti... Probably it was new back then.
Saludos desde Reynosa.
macnifico
...
..
.
 
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