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02 Sensor bypass on 2016 B1250

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I'd like to do this mod where snipping the wire removes the 02 sensor completely and prevent the FI light from coming on.

However my 2016 has a different ECU and I'm not seeing the wires the same way as the thread. Also don't really want to buy a manual for one piece of information.

Is there a way to find out which wire need cut?

http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63850&highlight=sensor+bolt+plug
 
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Can't give you a definite answer, but most vehicle companies tend to keep to the same color code for like functions, so I'd look for whatever the earlier model wire color was.

But can't you just plug in a resistor where the factory wiring hits the exhaust to simulate the o² sensor ?
 
I can tell you the four wires leaving my 02 sensor are the same and the earlier models, what doesn't match is my ECU. Second pic is the older one.
 

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'09 Wiring diagram. 02 Sensor is on the bottom right
 

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Can't give you a definite answer, but most vehicle companies tend to keep to the same color code for like functions, so I'd look for whatever the earlier model wire color was.

But can't you just plug in a resistor where the factory wiring hits the exhaust to simulate the o² sensor ?

Yes but it still trips an Fi light at steady cruising speed
 
Got a PC-V fitted on mine, the kit comes with a white O² bypass plug module, I've never seen the FI light come on whilst cruising in over 6 years since it was installed. The rest of the PC-V interacts with the fuel injection loom, nothing goes into or is cut from the main ECU cabling so I assume this little module is all that's required to trick the FI circuitry.
 
Got a PC-V fitted on mine, the kit comes with a white O² bypass plug module, I've never seen the FI light come on whilst cruising in over 6 years since it was installed. The rest of the PC-V interacts with the fuel injection loom, nothing goes into or is cut from the main ECU cabling so I assume this little module is all that's required to trick the FI circuitry.

Is yours a 2016? Dynojet told me they don't make one for my bike. What did you have to do do fit it?
 
No, I've got the first of the injected model, K7 (2007).

Not sure of the difference, as mentioned the PC-5 only goes into the injector loom (from memory), so logically it shouldn't matter what the ECU wiring was like.

Maybe there is a difference between the two, you'd think Dynatune would want to sell as many modules as possible, so by them stating it doesn't fit they are loosing sales.

Or maybe it's just a smog thing and they don't want a VW lawsuit ???

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
 
No, I've got the first of the injected model, K7 (2007).

Not sure of the difference, as mentioned the PC-5 only goes into the injector loom (from memory), so logically it shouldn't matter what the ECU wiring was like.

Maybe there is a difference between the two, you'd think Dynatune would want to sell as many modules as possible, so by them stating it doesn't fit they are loosing sales.

Or maybe it's just a smog thing and they don't want a VW lawsuit ???

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk

The ecu is different so I doubt it will work.

I found a local tuner than can flash it though, I can even keep the cat, sounds like they can plug into the 02 bung. Have you heard of that working on the bandit?
 
Yep, a couple of riders over this way have gone the reflash route, gives you other advantages than just fuel remapping such as control over the secondary butterflies, rev limiter etc.

I've got the Dynotune Auto tune on mine, it replaces the narrow band exhaust sensor with a wide band unit that does the full rev range not just the cruise that the OEM does. So depending on your tuner he might do something similar, or maybe just turn it off in the ECU.

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
 
Yep, a couple of riders over this way have gone the reflash route, gives you other advantages than just fuel remapping such as control over the secondary butterflies, rev limiter etc.

I've got the Dynotune Auto tune on mine, it replaces the narrow band exhaust sensor with a wide band unit that does the full rev range not just the cruise that the OEM does. So depending on your tuner he might do something similar, or maybe just turn it off in the ECU.

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk


That awesome, I was concerned he wouldn't get a good reading right next to the cat but that doesn't seem to be the case. Thanks!
 
Probably should of mentioned I'm also running Arrow Headers, so no cat to worry about, but still has the bung for the O2 sensor.

Went Arrow mainly due to they were the cheapest as far as postage to get over here to Oz. That's not to say they are a poor header, I've not got a bad word about them, the modular setup was an advantage in my situation. She's pulling very close to 130hp so it all works together.

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
 
Probably should of mentioned I'm also running Arrow Headers, so no cat to worry about, but still has the bung for the O2 sensor.

Went Arrow mainly due to they were the cheapest as far as postage to get over here to Oz. That's not to say they are a poor header, I've not got a bad word about them, the modular setup was an advantage in my situation. She's pulling very close to 130hp so it all works together.

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk

But others have had success making maps from the 02 bung on the stock header?
 
A good flash tuner can work with any of the original or aftermarket add-ons. I haven't hasd experience with this black-art as it really takes someone who knows what they are doing.

Just talking to your tuner about secondary butterflys and fuel maps under cold low temp conditions should give you enough gut-feel if they know what they're on about, if he can't give you good technical answers walk away, nothing embarrassing about having a well tuned standard Bandit, they were pretty good straight from the factory.
 
I had the FI light come on few times on a highways when was riding LD few hours straight, this August. First time I it took me off guard so I pulled over and turned bike off. After few minutes I turned it back on and no FI light. It turned back on after about 20 miles, so I just pulled the clutch and turned the bike off and back on after few seconds. No light. The light reappeared after about another 50 miles. I repeated the off/on procedure few more times.
After I got back home it never appeared again since.
I do run a PC-V and Yoshi, but no Auto-tune, so I don't think PC-V alone does anything to increase the power. Therefore I have an itch to remove it. If the PC was casing that issue? I don't know. It never comes on again.
 
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There will be some differences such as fuel type, environment, geographical etc, but my PC-V fitted, header modded, intake modded, secondary and pair denuded 07 Bandit is dynoed at 126hp, about 30% more than standard. There should be no reason a bike similarly kitted can't match or even better these numbers.

Just plugging in the PC-V without a couple of hours on a dyno IMHO would not give the optimum results.

Then there is the issue of your local laws, that's a whole lot of different problems. I've been very lucky and have changed rego in 3 different states here in Oz and not once been pinged for aftermarket exhaust or lack of smog gear, mileage my differ in your area.

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
 
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There will be some differences such as fuel type, environment, geographical etc, but ny PC-V fitted, header moded, intake moded, secondary and pair denuded 07 Bandit is dynoed at 126hp, about 30% more than standard. There should be no reason a bike similarly kitted can't match or even better these numbers.

Just plugging in the PC-V without a couple of hours on a dyno IMHO would not give the optimum results.

Then there is the issue of your local laws, that's a whole lot of different problems. I've been very lucjy and have changed rego in 3 different states here in Oz and not once been pinged for aftermarket exhaust or lack of smog gear, mileage my differ in your area.

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk

I have a guy that's going to flash it next month. He can remove any restrictions (if there are any), tune the secondaries, change the timing, anything to help it run right, or at least I'm hoping.
 
I have a 2016 and running without O2 connected. I removed the O2 and wire harness up to the connector. I have a plug resistor on the connector. Never a FI light due to that. Btw, I am running Dale Walker’s Holeshot SuperTuner set to stage 2 full exhaust since I have a BlackWidow header and the secondary throttle blades removed. No issues and she runs great !!!
 
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