Removing the secondary throttle blades makes a huge difference above 6800 rpms, especially with a header. Removing the ugly center stand drops ~ 10 lbs.Names Rob
stuck in the People’s Socialist Republic of Seattle
I’ve had it just a few months.
great bike, love it
I’m already doing the classic mods:
currently trying to solve an F1 indicator
full open air box lid, K&N
O2 sensor bypass
holeshot Corbin seat
upgraded headlamp bulbs
add auxiliary driving lights
install wideband O2 sensor for Autotune
raise handlebars 1/2 inch
Yes it doesn’t drop much.Removing the secondary throttle blades makes a huge difference above 6800 rpms, especially with a header. Removing the ugly center stand drops ~ 10 lbs.
Adding fuel with a stock header is a recipe for disaster. The stock header pipe is very restrictive and the added fuel will kill the cat. Once you install a header, be sure to remap the PCV as more fuel is needed for the added flow. The PAIR system should be removed or blocked for more accurate air fuel ratio readings. You should remove the secondary throttle blades at the same time as you do the header install to save time and money on a remap of the PCV. Otherwise you will have to remap the PCV again when you remove the secondary throttle blades.Yes it doesn’t drop much.
but it’s a start, and I may get one of those lightweight batteries as well, and replace anything that is steel with aluminum that is an easy bolt on (diminishing returns...)
or just water fast for 3 weeks =]
I am curious of what decating might do as well
Welcome LV! I did much the same taking time off to raise a family which ended up with the whole family getting into riding by the time they were late teens early twenties. Heck even my wife who back in the day nagged me to drop the MC endorsement put almost 30k miles on her own FZ1.
Riding with friends is fun but nothing beats riding with family.
Nice looking Bandit!
Welcome LV. The Bandit is super reliable and very easy to modify for performance. My bike was 100% stock when I got it and what world of difference now after Dale Walker’s stage 2 with full exhaust. I just turned 8K miles and loving every mile.
ahhhhh - I was going off of what the seller told me lol - have never actually seen another newer Bandit 1250S in person.Your pictures show the stock OEM header with catalytic converter and a slip on silencer - not full exhaust. An aftermarket header such as Arrow or BlackWidow would definitely keep the bike running cooler, add more power above 7k rpms and drop ~10 lbs of weight. You would definitely need to add more fuel ~ 6% in the upper rpms or remap the ECU if adding the header. I ran mine with stage 2 and the stock header for ~ a month before splurging and getting the BlackWidow race header. The LED headlights and signals are definitely needed as stock filament bulbs suck. I also have a Zero Gravity double bubble screen which I like a lot. You have a lot of nice touches and personalizations which make it your own. Enjoy.
Yes, I replaced the low beam, high beam, tail/brake, turn signals with LEDs. Stock filament bulbs in headlight were terrible. Overdriven the illumination beam at 50 mph. I put LED H7 bulbs in each the low and high beam and they make a huge difference to say the least. Much brighter with a superior beam pattern which illuminates everything. I used the below in the 3600lm model since the base was smaller which allowed the rubber bulb boot to slide on without modifications.ahhhhh - I was going off of what the seller told me lol - have never actually seen another newer Bandit 1250S in person.
Have looked at Holeshot's stage 1 and stage 2 - maybe in the future - right now I'm really happy with the way the bike runs - love the power band and torque! and the Yoshimura slip on gives it a really nice sound - sporty but not at all loud.
Did you put LED bulbs in yours? Have read lots (and not just on the Bandit) of riders posting that since the housings are not optimized for LED's, that they don't really get a good clean throw with their lights - I actually just spent $20 to get what seems to be advertised as one of the brighter Halogen H7 bulbs - will probably install it this weekend on my low beam.
The first time I rode my Bandit on a dark moonless night, I was shocked at how crappy the lighting was - I had to do some reading to realize that it was mostly the AIM was way off - the headlight was pointed almost directly down right in front of the bike - made some adjustments with the easily reachable Allen screw adjustment, and it's much better - haven't had a problem with drivers coming at me flashing me, so it must not be aimed too high now. Light is still kind of old school "yellow" in quality - hoping the new bulb helps.
Got the new low beam bulb installed today - only took about 10 minutes, and took it for a ride tonight. Very pleased with the result for $20.just spent $20 to get what seems to be advertised as one of the brighter Halogen H7 bulbs - will probably install it this weekend on my low beam.
Do you have a pic of the light pattern on the road at night? Or even at your garage door? (Curious if there is a focused cut off point like the headlight housings create with the halogen bulbs - read the reviews on the LEDs you linked and someone complained about this on one of the bulbs.Believe it or not this picture was taken in the bright a55 daytime around 1pm. Parking lights are Sylvania LED 168/194 and low and high beams are ShowChrome Ultra Bright Cree LED H7 bulbs with constant current power regulators. No flicker or dimming at idle just bright a55 illumination that has worked flawlessly for the past 2 years. Very pleased.