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1250 Bandits on this Site

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I cut the rear fender with a rotozip after marking with masking tape. I followed the side line to the 1st bend for a slick look. I then used a sanding block with 600 grit sandpaper to get any burrs off. Lastly, I heated up at 450 degrees a small baking pan in the toaster over for 10 minutes and used oven mits to hold the heated pan bottom on the cut to melt edge for a factory look.
 
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The old saying, “If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself“. I wasn’t even happy after I removed the secondary throttle blades knowing the STVA was still connected and turning the slotted rod disrupting airflow. So I removed and separated the throttle body to get the STVA off and remove the rod. I used a Healtech STVE to keep the FI light code 28 from coming on. Going the extra mile allows me to sleep better at night knowing it was done right.
 

DRW

Joined
Apr 21, 2008
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Pismo Beach CA.
Been meaning to say "Hello" for a while. 2007 Red still satisfying in so many ways. I'm planning on putting on some travel miles in August, totally confident the Bandit will handle anything I put it through. I named the bike "El Diablo" when I bought it in 2007 because the last three of the VIN # are 666. I've reminded myself of that name each time I have started a ride and I'am venturing out on something potentially dangerous, crazy as it seems I believe it's worked for me. I just changed plugs and serviced the K&N, it's a joy to feel the smooth pull of this machine. Safe riding, from Doug, in Pismo Beach CA.
 

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Joined
Apr 9, 2010
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Location
Hillwood, Tasmania, Australia
First Name
Barry
Last Name
McKinless
Hi Doug, got a red 07 as well, not as many miles as yours but totally agree with your appraisal. Used to live up 101 a bit north of you at Paso Robles back in the mid 80's when I was in the Army, had an exchange thing going on between the US and Aust satellite bases. Loved CA, a lot like Aust in many ways. Stay safe, Barry (now in Tasmania, AU)
 

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Joined
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The People’s Socialist Republic of Seattle
Names Rob
stuck in the People’s Socialist Republic of Seattle

Red 07
19k
I’ve had it just a few months.
great bike, love it

I’m already doing the classic mods:
currently trying to solve an F1 indicator

full open air box lid, K&N
PCV
O2 sensor bypass
aftermarket exhaust
holeshot Corbin seat
forkbrace
upgraded headlamp bulbs
add auxiliary driving lights

Next:
remove secondary’s
install wideband O2 sensor for Autotune
Blockl/remove pcv
remove centerstand
raise handlebars 1/2 inch
 
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Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
77
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Location
United States
Names Rob
stuck in the People’s Socialist Republic of Seattle

Red 07
19k
I’ve had it just a few months.
great bike, love it

I’m already doing the classic mods:
currently trying to solve an F1 indicator

full open air box lid, K&N
PCV
O2 sensor bypass
aftermarket exhaust
holeshot Corbin seat
forkbrace
upgraded headlamp bulbs
add auxiliary driving lights

Next:
remove secondary’s
install wideband O2 sensor for Autotune
Blockl/remove pcv
remove centerstand
raise handlebars 1/2 inch
Removing the secondary throttle blades makes a huge difference above 6800 rpms, especially with a header. Removing the ugly center stand drops ~ 10 lbs.
 
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Removing the secondary throttle blades makes a huge difference above 6800 rpms, especially with a header. Removing the ugly center stand drops ~ 10 lbs.
Yes it doesn’t drop much.
but it’s a start, and I may get one of those lightweight batteries as well, and replace anything that is steel with aluminum that is an easy bolt on (diminishing returns...)

or just water fast for 3 weeks =]

I am curious of what decating might do as well
 
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Yes it doesn’t drop much.
but it’s a start, and I may get one of those lightweight batteries as well, and replace anything that is steel with aluminum that is an easy bolt on (diminishing returns...)

or just water fast for 3 weeks =]

I am curious of what decating might do as well
Adding fuel with a stock header is a recipe for disaster. The stock header pipe is very restrictive and the added fuel will kill the cat. Once you install a header, be sure to remap the PCV as more fuel is needed for the added flow. The PAIR system should be removed or blocked for more accurate air fuel ratio readings. You should remove the secondary throttle blades at the same time as you do the header install to save time and money on a remap of the PCV. Otherwise you will have to remap the PCV again when you remove the secondary throttle blades.
 
Joined
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Vegas
Hello All,

Back in May bought a clean, like new 2016 Bandit 1250S with just under 4k miles on the clock.
Have been on the forum now for a month or two, referring to all the info here, and have been skimming through the mega-thread (currently on about page 200 - it's funny and kind of sad to read so many posts from so many great guys and then click on their usernames and see that they haven't even been on the forum for 5 or 7 or even 10 years or more.....)

A little background, was an avid motorcycle rider from my teenage years up until about 30, (didn't even own a car until I was 26), with probably 80-100k miles on various street bikes during that time. Bikes I owned included an '83 Honda XL250, 82 Yamaha Seca 750, 82 Honda V45 Sabre, 85 Honda Nighthawk S, 90 Suzuki 750 Katana, and an 89 Yamaha FJ1200.

Gave up motorcycles when I turned 30, a couple of years after getting married, and a couple of years before starting a family.

Wife always knew I would eventually get one, and now in my early 50's, figure the clock is running out, so took an MSF class last fall to get the motorcycle endorsement back on my license, and have already bought 4 bikes and sold two (all private party - so didn't even lose any money) to find what works for me.


Looking forward to spending lots of time on this forum learning the intricacies of my new machine from the more experienced hands around here!
 
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My Bandit:
 

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Joined
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East, Tx
Welcome LV! I did much the same taking time off to raise a family which ended up with the whole family getting into riding by the time they were late teens early twenties. Heck even my wife who back in the day nagged me to drop the MC endorsement put almost 30k miles on her own FZ1. :mrgreen:

Riding with friends is fun but nothing beats riding with family.

Nice looking Bandit!
 
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Welcome LV. The Bandit is super reliable and very easy to modify for performance. My bike was 100% stock when I got it and what world of difference now after Dale Walker’s stage 2 with full exhaust. I just turned 8K miles and loving every mile.
 
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Welcome LV! I did much the same taking time off to raise a family which ended up with the whole family getting into riding by the time they were late teens early twenties. Heck even my wife who back in the day nagged me to drop the MC endorsement put almost 30k miles on her own FZ1. :mrgreen:

Riding with friends is fun but nothing beats riding with family.

Nice looking Bandit!

Thanks all for the warm welcome!


I've read about a LOT of guys like us that took 2 or 3 decades off from motorcycles while busy with family and career and then returned to riding - actually surprised there isn't a cool buzzword or nickname to describe us - sort of the motorcycling version of "empty nester" lol.







Welcome LV. The Bandit is super reliable and very easy to modify for performance. My bike was 100% stock when I got it and what world of difference now after Dale Walker’s stage 2 with full exhaust. I just turned 8K miles and loving every mile.

Already spent several hundred dollars with Dale, lol! Most of it for the Galfer stainless brake and clutch lines (still need to get installed), and handlebar risers (which I haven't decided if I really need, as the Bandit is pretty darn comfortable with the stock bars.

My bike came pretty well farkled but have already added a few things, including an Admore 8" LED brake/turn signal light bar, Skene Photon Blaster amber LED's in the front, along with their headlight modulator that keeps the high beam on at lower intensity during daylight, a USB power port/ voltmeter, and an FZ1Fuzeblock for the extra wiring, Atlas throttle lock, Pro-grip Superbike grips, HealTech GI Pro gear position indicator with ATRE, HealTech speedo healer.

Bike came with a Corbin saddle (with passenger backrest), SW-Motech crash bars, full Yoshimura exhaust, headers back, Zero Gravity smoke touring windscreen, rubber tank skins/protectors, and a nice set of SW-Motech soft saddlebags.
 
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Your pictures show the stock OEM header with catalytic converter and a slip on silencer - not full exhaust. An aftermarket header such as Arrow or BlackWidow would definitely keep the bike running cooler, add more power above 7k rpms and drop ~10 lbs of weight. You would definitely need to add more fuel ~ 6% in the upper rpms or remap the ECU if adding the header. I ran mine with stage 2 and the stock header for ~ a month before splurging and getting the BlackWidow race header. The LED headlights and signals are definitely needed as stock filament bulbs suck. I also have a Zero Gravity double bubble screen which I like a lot. You have a lot of nice touches and personalizations which make it your own. Enjoy.
 
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Your pictures show the stock OEM header with catalytic converter and a slip on silencer - not full exhaust. An aftermarket header such as Arrow or BlackWidow would definitely keep the bike running cooler, add more power above 7k rpms and drop ~10 lbs of weight. You would definitely need to add more fuel ~ 6% in the upper rpms or remap the ECU if adding the header. I ran mine with stage 2 and the stock header for ~ a month before splurging and getting the BlackWidow race header. The LED headlights and signals are definitely needed as stock filament bulbs suck. I also have a Zero Gravity double bubble screen which I like a lot. You have a lot of nice touches and personalizations which make it your own. Enjoy.
ahhhhh - I was going off of what the seller told me lol - have never actually seen another newer Bandit 1250S in person.

Have looked at Holeshot's stage 1 and stage 2 - maybe in the future - right now I'm really happy with the way the bike runs - love the power band and torque! and the Yoshimura slip on gives it a really nice sound - sporty but not at all loud.

Did you put LED bulbs in yours? Have read lots (and not just on the Bandit) of riders posting that since the housings are not optimized for LED's, that they don't really get a good clean throw with their lights - I actually just spent $20 to get what seems to be advertised as one of the brighter Halogen H7 bulbs - will probably install it this weekend on my low beam.


The first time I rode my Bandit on a dark moonless night, I was shocked at how crappy the lighting was - I had to do some reading to realize that it was mostly the AIM was way off - the headlight was pointed almost directly down right in front of the bike - made some adjustments with the easily reachable Allen screw adjustment, and it's much better - haven't had a problem with drivers coming at me flashing me, so it must not be aimed too high now. Light is still kind of old school "yellow" in quality - hoping the new bulb helps.
 
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ahhhhh - I was going off of what the seller told me lol - have never actually seen another newer Bandit 1250S in person.

Have looked at Holeshot's stage 1 and stage 2 - maybe in the future - right now I'm really happy with the way the bike runs - love the power band and torque! and the Yoshimura slip on gives it a really nice sound - sporty but not at all loud.

Did you put LED bulbs in yours? Have read lots (and not just on the Bandit) of riders posting that since the housings are not optimized for LED's, that they don't really get a good clean throw with their lights - I actually just spent $20 to get what seems to be advertised as one of the brighter Halogen H7 bulbs - will probably install it this weekend on my low beam.


The first time I rode my Bandit on a dark moonless night, I was shocked at how crappy the lighting was - I had to do some reading to realize that it was mostly the AIM was way off - the headlight was pointed almost directly down right in front of the bike - made some adjustments with the easily reachable Allen screw adjustment, and it's much better - haven't had a problem with drivers coming at me flashing me, so it must not be aimed too high now. Light is still kind of old school "yellow" in quality - hoping the new bulb helps.
Yes, I replaced the low beam, high beam, tail/brake, turn signals with LEDs. Stock filament bulbs in headlight were terrible. Overdriven the illumination beam at 50 mph. I put LED H7 bulbs in each the low and high beam and they make a huge difference to say the least. Much brighter with a superior beam pattern which illuminates everything. I used the below in the 3600lm model since the base was smaller which allowed the rubber bulb boot to slide on without modifications.
I would also recommend the below if the above models are not availabl:
I prefer the models with the braided heatsink as I have had the Pathfinder model from SoCalmotorgear.com on my Honda F6B which are seen below and performed well but not as good as the ShowChrome.
I replace the turn signals and tail/brake light with Sylvania Premium
Lastly, you have to replace the turn signal relay below the left side cover with a LED relay so they will blink normal instead of fast.
 
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just spent $20 to get what seems to be advertised as one of the brighter Halogen H7 bulbs - will probably install it this weekend on my low beam.

Got the new low beam bulb installed today - only took about 10 minutes, and took it for a ride tonight. Very pleased with the result for $20.
The light is noticeably brighter and whiter.
Combined with having raised/properly aimed the headlight, I now have good useable light.

Note also my Skene Photon Blasters in these photos, they flicker at a high intensity, and really make the bike a lot more visible from the front - also have their high beam headlight modulator, which keeps the high beam (lower headlight) on at 20% intensity whenever the high beam is NOT switched on as a fulltime running light (switching the high beam on gives it full 100% intensity).

OLD H7 bulb on left below, NEW on right, note the whiter color
(low beam on these bikes is the UPPER housing, so upper center light)
 

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Glad you were able to improve your lighting. Here is a picture of mine. Parking lights are Sylvania LED 168/194 and low and high beams are ShowChrome Ultra Bright Cree LED H7 bulbs with constant current power regulators. No flicker or dimming at idle just bright a55 illumination that has worked flawlessly for the past 2 years. Very pleased.
 

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Believe it or not this picture was taken in the bright a55 daytime around 1pm. Parking lights are Sylvania LED 168/194 and low and high beams are ShowChrome Ultra Bright Cree LED H7 bulbs with constant current power regulators. No flicker or dimming at idle just bright a55 illumination that has worked flawlessly for the past 2 years. Very pleased.
Do you have a pic of the light pattern on the road at night? Or even at your garage door? (Curious if there is a focused cut off point like the headlight housings create with the halogen bulbs - read the reviews on the LEDs you linked and someone complained about this on one of the bulbs.
 
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There is a very distinct cutoff just like stock. The brighter illumination beam is wider and further while being pure white instead of yellowish. I also replaced the 4 headlamps in my Honda F6B which I owned before the Bandit 1250 with the same benefit. I find that others that have had beam issues either do not have the bulb seated correctly or have the bulb installed slightly twisted with the LEDs not perpendicular. On my F6B, I adjusted the twist which made a huge difference in beam pattern. The bulbs originally came just a tad off from perpendicular which washed the pattern into a smear. The SoCal H7s had a small hex in the collar that held the bulb into the housing that you could loosen and twist to adjust. I would never go back to filament bulbs after the positive experiences I had with the F6B and Bandit LEDs. Brighter filament bulbs run hot and have a shorter life than standard filament bulbs. By the way, Motorcyle bulbs are different than auto bulbs. Motorcyle bulbs are heavy duty with thicker filaments and connections to deal with vibration. Look at the back of Sylvania packages at life expectancy which can be as low as 80 hrs on their brightest bulbs. That works out to less than a year if riding 2 hours on the weekends. The below picture is not mine but taken from the website I got my H7 LEDs for my F6B. I kid you not, that is exactly the difference. I also replaced them years ago in my wife’s old van which you can see there is no beam pattern problem.
 

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