-
Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! 
Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!
1972 Honda CT70K1
- Thread starter bmcdonau
- Start date
StromXTc
0
Wow this is getting good, can you blast those Wheels in your cabinet?
The cheap Chinese carbs actually work pretty good. I've bought one for about $30 and used it to test for carb problems. If it's running poorly and you can swap in a known good one, it eliminates the carby as a problem. Takes 5 minutes to swap.
See if you can get some hex heads to replace screws on the engine. I use them on the carb to manifold too.
Great project and I enjoyed the pictures.
See if you can get some hex heads to replace screws on the engine. I use them on the carb to manifold too.
Great project and I enjoyed the pictures.
I can, but I'm going back and forth on it.
Carbs are rebuilt with all new brass so I'm hoping it works well.
I've been replacing the Philips head screws with the chromed flange hex heads. They are OEM Honda parts from 80s street bikes. Here they are on my 74 XL 350.
The carb is done -- all new gaskets, o-rings, filter, petcock packing and brass. The air box is a NOS Honda model. Hope the carb works!
I have a small rubber plug. I'm thinking of drilling a hole in this chrome cap so I can spray starter fluid into the intake. I can use the plug to cover it up
I installed a new coil, I need to cut the spark plug wire to length and install the cap. I have new points, condenser and spark plug to installl.
The step, foot pegs, and kickstand are done and work and look great.
New OEM ignition switch and wiring harness. I have a few more wiring issues to fix before I'm ready to fire it up.
New GMAT 6 volt battery.
Painted battery holder. The original was silver, but it was the only silver thing on the bike. This isn't a 100 pt restoration so its black now.
The front end of the wiring harness. I need the horn switch and horn.
The rear brake lever cable. Without it, the brake spring won't stay on the rear brake lever.
New wiring gromet to plug the hole. I have to put that cable stay in where that hole is.
New seat and I need the tail light. I blasted the chromed mount to get rid of the rust.
Right side
Left side
New levers, brake and throttle cables and hi/low headlight switch
There should be a horn switch on the right handle bar. I'm thinking about reversing the horn and dimmer switch.
I forgot to check the horn, it didn't work on the battery charger or battery. I even adjusted the screw on the back, but no joy.
Near as I can tell, I need a new horn, tail light, chain adjusters, chain, counter shaft sprocket, primary sprocket, fork springs, and fork seals along with two new tires and tubes.
I have a small rubber plug. I'm thinking of drilling a hole in this chrome cap so I can spray starter fluid into the intake. I can use the plug to cover it up
I installed a new coil, I need to cut the spark plug wire to length and install the cap. I have new points, condenser and spark plug to installl.
The step, foot pegs, and kickstand are done and work and look great.
New OEM ignition switch and wiring harness. I have a few more wiring issues to fix before I'm ready to fire it up.
New GMAT 6 volt battery.
Painted battery holder. The original was silver, but it was the only silver thing on the bike. This isn't a 100 pt restoration so its black now.
The front end of the wiring harness. I need the horn switch and horn.
The rear brake lever cable. Without it, the brake spring won't stay on the rear brake lever.
New wiring gromet to plug the hole. I have to put that cable stay in where that hole is.
New seat and I need the tail light. I blasted the chromed mount to get rid of the rust.
Right side
Left side
New levers, brake and throttle cables and hi/low headlight switch
There should be a horn switch on the right handle bar. I'm thinking about reversing the horn and dimmer switch.
I forgot to check the horn, it didn't work on the battery charger or battery. I even adjusted the screw on the back, but no joy.
Near as I can tell, I need a new horn, tail light, chain adjusters, chain, counter shaft sprocket, primary sprocket, fork springs, and fork seals along with two new tires and tubes.
Attachments
Last edited:
I've not seen your rectifier. If it's like my ct90, it's a terrible unit and needs to be replaced. There is no voltage regulator, it uses the lead acid battery to regulate the voltage.
Looks like it is coming along quickly.
Looks like it is coming along quickly.
+1. I used the Radioshack rectifier on my CT90, and it works great!
With the horn, some times they become rusty and stick. I had a similar issue with the one on my CT90. I read an old trick is to briefly give it 12V to help it loosen up. One or two seconds at a time.
Its got a selenium rectifier. It tests okay. None of them are really great.
Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try.
StromXTc
0
At least use some of this
I have their stand alone cheap blaster tank. Worthless as you know whats on a you know what.
Love the patina, it'll be a sleeper.
I couldn't get the horn to work. I even shot some rust remover into the vent and nothing happened. So, I ordered a new horn and switch.
I've got to address this issue and another with the stator.
I need to get the rotor off so I can change the points and condenser, but I don't have the right flywheel puller. I've got 4 and none of them fit! I also think I have a stator problem because I hear a snapping sound when the bike is turned over. I may need to have the coils rewound or replaced.
I did manage to finish the wiring and modernized the fuse holder. I ran the loom in this flexible conduit to protect the wires. The new solid state rectifier should be here next week and I'll be able to fit everything back into the frame once I sort out the stator and connector wiring that got fried.
You can see the coil down at the bottom of the frame.
The speedometer cable was a challenge. The end of the old cable looked like this.
And the new one looks like this.
Those two prongs were broken off in the hub and it took me forever to remove them and get the gear out so I could clean it.
I've got to address this issue and another with the stator.
I need to get the rotor off so I can change the points and condenser, but I don't have the right flywheel puller. I've got 4 and none of them fit! I also think I have a stator problem because I hear a snapping sound when the bike is turned over. I may need to have the coils rewound or replaced.
I did manage to finish the wiring and modernized the fuse holder. I ran the loom in this flexible conduit to protect the wires. The new solid state rectifier should be here next week and I'll be able to fit everything back into the frame once I sort out the stator and connector wiring that got fried.
You can see the coil down at the bottom of the frame.
The speedometer cable was a challenge. The end of the old cable looked like this.
And the new one looks like this.
Those two prongs were broken off in the hub and it took me forever to remove them and get the gear out so I could clean it.
The flywheel removal tool came in yesterday so I was able to take the rotor off this morning. The stator is trashed, it looks like the end of the coils rusted to the steel magnets in the rotor, then pieces broke off and hit the coil. That's why I was hearing snapping sound I was hearing.
That sucker was on there tight!
Lot of rust in there.
The rotor is aluminum with steel magnets embedded in it.
I found a place that sells all the stuff inside here for $35. Unfortunately, they are out right now, but expect to have new stock within two weeks.
That sucker was on there tight!
Lot of rust in there.
The rotor is aluminum with steel magnets embedded in it.
I found a place that sells all the stuff inside here for $35. Unfortunately, they are out right now, but expect to have new stock within two weeks.
I have a tail light now, but it was an arduous route to get a working one. The original tail light was rough, but usable enough for me. It was missing the lens and the wiring was rough so I located a new socket and wiring, but the lens was tougher. A new one from Honda was $44, but I could get a complete Chinese knockoff for $29.95. That seemed like a better deal, but after I got it I knew I wouldn't use it. It's thin, thin, thin and missing the big reflector around the light bulb. It's also a slightly different shape than the original so the lens wouldn't just fit old fixture. I ended up grinding a little metal off those tabs with the holes for the screws that secure the bezel and cut down the reflector. Its not perfect, but it works and looks right.
The Chinese copy.
The original with the new lens.
You can see the lens is a little small for the fixture at the top here. It's got a gasket behind it so it should be weather tight.
The Chinese copy.
The original with the new lens.
You can see the lens is a little small for the fixture at the top here. It's got a gasket behind it so it should be weather tight.
Honda horns can be quite valuable & rare. When I restored my CB400F the horn was completely dead and NOS replacements were impossible to find. I ended up hiding a modern horn up under the tank & left the original for looks.
Zonie
0
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2017
- Messages
- 924
- Reaction score
- 850
- Location
- Granbury, Texas
- First Name
- John
- Last Name
- Ebert
It is coming right along. Good for you.
I've sprayed and soaked the vintage horns with wd-40. Test w direct current and bypass the switches, they can be the problem.
Another trick is to just bolt on to your handlebars an old squeeze bulb bicycle horn from Academy. Remove it after your inspection. Let's face it, the ct70 horn has never been audible to that mini-van that's making a beeline at you. How much do you need the stock horn? If concerned get a decent air horn.
I prefer the CT90 and 110 but I admire the ct70s too. It's a different ride with those wide tires.
Another trick is to just bolt on to your handlebars an old squeeze bulb bicycle horn from Academy. Remove it after your inspection. Let's face it, the ct70 horn has never been audible to that mini-van that's making a beeline at you. How much do you need the stock horn? If concerned get a decent air horn.
I prefer the CT90 and 110 but I admire the ct70s too. It's a different ride with those wide tires.
Wondering if this little CT70 ever got finished?
I have been running beads in my HF cabinet for years. Did you change anything to start using soda? Arm & Hammer?
Sorry for the late reply. It went to a new owner who was going to make it look new.