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2000 DR650- $2300 (neg)

Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
1,216
Location
Dallas
Selling my 2000 DR650. Current ODO reads 14945. I don't have too many photos as she sits this very moment and I don't have the time to post all the stuff I have done to it or added to it but right now top of the list is carb and exhaust parts from Procycle (plus other goodies from them as well). It has 2 practically new tires on it that are the Shinko 705's with about 300 miles on them but the front has a slow leak, since the day the tires were put on (which is kind of a pisser but it happens to the best of people). It has been slow enough to where I only worry about it when I get time to put around on it, which is seldom. I replaced all the plastics after I bought it because the original stuff is painted an ugly green, for the price of the bike you can have it all as well, funky color and all. I have done the rear fender mod and added a LED rear brake light. It has a Seat Concepts commuter seat on it now and it totally transforms the ability to go out and drain the tank. Man, so many little things to list. I will have to follow up more as I can think about it and write it down.

I just have too many bikes, and this is a great thumper, fun to ride,

The short list for now is what I have mentioned above plus a whole set of plastics from front to back (painted the same ugly green as the Clark tank), plus a spare metal stock tank with the complete fuel valve and another plastic Clark tank (and a stock exhaust, plus the Titanium pipe that was from a GSXR that is considered the long one). Sorry no midpipe but the more time goes by that gixxer can will become more desirable for the swap. The metal pictured has stickers on it from whomever I bought it from I guess they must add 2 or three Horsepower to it. The other stock tank I got with it has a ding on the tank but it's still in much better shape. I just left the sticker tank on it because I was doing some riding in loose gravel and rocks for the first time in decades and did not want to bash up the better looking tank of the two. The Clarke I have I think was something like 3.9 Gallons or there-about. I would have put it on the bike but the color the PO had on it was terrible and it looked like crap and I did not want to experiment with it too much, but I am curious how they got the paint to stick to it so well. Also for what I was riding at the time up in the city there was a gas station around every corner. It also has a spare stock seat and its more akin to a 2x4 then it is a seat but the seat concepts seat makes it a real pleasure to ride. I think they day I ate dirt I had ridden about 50 miles to get there, then I think we rode around another 120 miles, and then 50 miles back home. The only thing that did not hurt afterwards was my butt so I also have that brand on my DL1000 now as well.

Some might think $2500 is too much, but this bike comes with a lot of mods already done, and a lot of spare parts that will keep you running for a long time. Likewise, I am open to some negotiation and perhaps some trades but if it has wheels and a motor I already have other stuff to occupy space in the garage or drivewayojects.

Here are a few pictures I have of it from when I first got her all tuned and cleaned up with all the new parts and if the weather isn't a mess tomorrow I will take some more pictures in the "I've been ridden some and put away with no care status, lol"

Here is also a link so you can see some before and after.
https://goo.gl/photos/DYx8ZtrjmoSE7CNq7

I've done a lot of maintenance on the bike but two things I profess to not have done is check the valves and the NSU update. It still pops a fair amount but I've been told multiple times that the DR650 is just really bad about that on non stock cans, and I have tuned the jetting. Right now I am running about as big a jet as you can and it still pops as if it is lean. I have not fiddled with it more because I just have not been riding it, but it does have the adjustable pilot jet and air box mod, plus the parts and instructions for fine tuning from the Procycle kit so it can be tuned a little more. I did replace the cam chain tensioner gasket because it was a mess, put on a new chain, and replaced all the brake lines with stainless lines. The rotors were in great shape and I just installed the stock pads back on after flushing all the fluids and just going over the bike with cleaner and making sure all the PO's lack of care was erased. It does have a slight oil leak now but I suspect it's from the cam cover gaskets and again, if I were riding it more I would tend to it, but its been on the long project list.

Some of the few pictures I have to upload right now and I will try and follow up with a list of parts I have either put on the bike or have to go with it (have a couple of power accessories still in the box Procycle sent me, along with a few extra oil filters and maintenance items.

Likewise if you have a question just send me a PM and I'll respond as quickly as I am able. Thanks!

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Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Messages
45
Location
Archer City
Doubtful, but would you by any chance be interested in a 2002 Kawasaki voyager xii?


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Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
1,216
Location
Dallas
Some additional info for anyone wondering why so much:

Here is the stuff I got for it or did to it while doing the rebuild

Has a new chain (sprockets were in good shape. Can't remember tooth counts but I know the front was at least one tooth smaller but it has been up to 103 with my 260 pound carcas on it (verified by GPS).
Cush rubbers appeared to be in decent shape so I left them
Procycle Stainless Steel C/S Sprocket Retainer Plate with new sprocket bolts
New Twinair filter with Pro-cycle breathe easy kit (Basic rejet with adjustable screw type fuel misture screw)
New Countershaft seal
Procycle Countershaft seal retainer
Cam chain tensioner gasket
Procycle 5/16 fuel filter
Procycle Remote choke cable kit (relocates the choke so it is super easy to engage or disengage without having to stick your hand into hot areas)
Procycle Case Saver Chain Guard (original chain cover was full of grease and slightly cracked so I left it off and put on a case saver style to just avoid it busting the case if the chain ever let go.
New lower chain roller (moose racing) and the upper one was already snapped off before I got to it, otherwise I would have put a block off screw on it
Lock-Nut Style Rear Axle Nut
JNS Engineering chain guard (original plastic piece was garbage)
DG Performance V2 Slip-on muffler (has the DB killer installed as well)
SAE battery charging adapter
Seat Concepts Touring/Commuter seat (along with an original seat)
ebay branded wider foot pegs (originals in a box with the spare oil filters) I do not believe they are lowered but they are about a half inch wider for foot comfort while riding
DSA Side panels (in white)
DSA rear YZ style fender complete with license holder and LED brake light (in Blue)
Acerbis Front Supermoto fender (has a white mark on it from when I went down hard last April but I could use the heat gun to remove the discolor in about 5 minutes)
Removed the lock gizmo from the gas cap so you do not have to take the key out of the ignition to refuel
Suzuki OEM wingarm pivot caps
2 new Shinko 705's in OEM size. Both now have probably about 500 miles on. Had HD tubes installed on both wheels but the front has been leaking slowly since it was installed and I was just to excited to go ride it when I got it back to take the front wheel back and mess with it. It will usually hold for a while and then when the temp's dip it loses the pressure.
Front stainless braided brake line. At that time I inspected the rotor and brake pads. I rebuild the caliper, flushed all the fluid and put new pads on. The rotor was in good shape
Rear stainless braided brake line. Same as above only the pads were still in good shape so I reused them.
Outland bar risers (If I recall I think they were a 1 inch riser to get the bars out of my knees). I do have the original risers somewhere if you need them and are a little smaller stature
Rocky Mountain ATV Anodized blue bars (nothing fancy, they were cheap and blue so I liked them. They are a somewhat flat bend, I think close to a Carmichael bend
Trailtech Digital Tach/Hour meter
Progrip 714 Rally grips
Warp 9 three finger levers
Doubletake Supermoto mirrors as well as some Ebay knock-off Tuono styled mirrors
Tie down strap rings for front forks

Have but not installed:
AE Motorsports Dashboard
auxillary power plug (goes to the power outlet hidden in the dash, so you can add switched on power without cutting the OEM harness
10 spare oil filters
5 spare oil drain plug crush washers

Additionally when I got the bike I broke it down to the major components and cleaned and wiped down everything as best I could. I loosened some of the major fasteners and either retorqued, added anti-seize, regreased, or put loc-tite where needed. Once I got it running a changed the oil and ran everything for about 100 to 150 miles and changed the oil again to basically just sift through with a magnet and see if I could find any metal in the oil each time. At the time I never found anything and after the first oil change it looked really clean and I have had no issue's or real concerns about it I changed the oil the last time back in October but that was just because it had been sitting quite a while and I had a friend coming in to ride and the DR was his for the day, he had no issues except for one of the handlebar handguards loosened up, which I have tightened up since then.

The Battery is about 2 years old now if I recall properly, but I may be incorrect. I can not recall if I replaced it or if I was able to save it when I got it home by leaving it on a battery conditioner. It holds a charge if you ride it regularly but the bike is cold natured and I have run it pretty low to the point of needing to charge it before I can get it started so I usually charge it the day before I am going to fiddle with it and have just resorted to using a shot or 2 of start fluid to avoid the cold start annoyances. Once it warms up it will fire up easily. I have not tuned it properly since I first rebuilt it which was about 2 years ago so i am sure it's just a matter of cleaning the carb once, adjusting the fuel mixture and if you are a perfectionist you can try to dial out the popping but I am not a perfectionist and once you get used to it you'll probably say screw it like I have, lol

So as far as the tuning goes, I tried to get the perfect tune and stop the popping. I read on the DR forums extensively while trying to chase it down, sure I would get to a happy spot and the general consensus is that it's a pipe dream. The carb was about as well tuned as it could be for power without a way to gas analyze but time has passed and I know at least one time I decide to rejet it to chase the popping issue so to be fair I never did the idle drop tuning afterwards because I was in a rush to get rolling so realistically it probably could use a rejet and tune but right now it will run as hard as it did with the old jet (but I think there was maybe a little room for improvement at WOT on the top end. The thing that annoys me now is I can not recall what I bumped the jet up to. I know when I final tuned it on the old Jet it would hit 103 confirmed by GPS and I weight 250+. Not sure if it will do the same now because I have not tried it since then and the last time I did have a chance it was windy, I had just had a really bad fall (on the DR of course) and I was missing a mirror and had at least 2 cracked rips so I wasn't exactly paying attention to the speedo.
 
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