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'83 GL1100A rebuild

I tend to listen more than talk. Since the wife will be with me most of the time on the Wing, I doubt rag chewing will be much on the agenda.

I haven't decided what rig I want to put on the Wing yet. The FTM-10R is the obvious choice due to its weather resistance, but the FTM-350R/AR and D710 and the similar Icom (forget the model) units are quite tempting with their APRS-ready and dual-rx. But they don't like being outside in the weather.

I'll likely be building a custom interface for a comm system as I'm not quite happy with how the on-board comm works nor does an aftermarket one provide what I"m looking for. More custom building :trust:
 
Well, just when things were looking good, I find coolant on cylinder #1.
Here I thought it was the carbs draining down and hydro-locking it :doh:

oh well, such is life.
 
Was going to try some stop-leak in it, but found the #3 carb is pouring fuel out of the joint with the plenum. Lovely.
 
The right front cylinder is the one with water on it. I think that's #1, but could be quite wrong. Forget the layout of those engines.

Doesn't look too complicated, its a flat-four afterall, just don't really want to have to deal with it.
I'll take the carbs off tomorrow and see about fixing that leak. Then we'll try the stop leak and go from there.
 
The right front cylinder is the one with water on it. I think that's #1, but could be quite wrong. Forget the layout of those engines.

Doesn't look too complicated, its a flat-four afterall, just don't really want to have to deal with it.
I'll take the carbs off tomorrow and see about fixing that leak. Then we'll try the stop leak and go from there.

Not to be a buzzkill but there is no way i would run that engine with a leaking head gasket with stop leak or otherwise. The cylinders are under pressure and you will do more damage to the engine if you try to run it like that. They can easily warp/crack a head from a blown head gasket. Its less than a couple hundred dollars in parts to rebuild the entire top end, even less if you dont put new rings in it.
 
The suggestion for the stop leak came from my dad. His background is auto repair. Been doing that for something like 35yrs.
He's built plenty of bikes in there as well. That's how he paid his way through college.

From my perspective, I don't think it would hurt the engine anymore to try this stop leak. Worst case, it won't help and I'll have to do the head gaskets anyway.
I could be wrong, so feel free to correct me if I am.

This particular stop leak dad has had very good luck with. Several cars with that were severly over-heated are still running now after using this stuff. Its not the traditional stuff that clogs the radiator.
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/152/liquid_glass_metallic_seal_up/

Opinions?
 
Something I'm not quite getting here. For one, when I let it sit up, it was running fine, no leaks except that water pump oil seal you fixed. But, you fired it up and it ran fine? No miss, no white smoke or anything? Just wondering, 'cause if it's leaking at the head gasket that bad, it should be missing on that cylinder. Also, are you noticing the water level drop as it leaks? Is it leaking into the cylinder?

If it is a headgasket, I'm skeptical of stop leak, but if you can get it to hold without plugging up the radiator or something, okay. But, I wouldn't wanna be out in West Texas on I10 halfway to nowhere knowing I'm relying on stop leak. Just me, I guess. :lol2: The head is quite easy to pull, nothing, but the engine case guard in the way, don't even have to drop the motor out of it. I'm worryin' that if the gasket IS leaking, there might be some head warpage, too. I'd wanna check that, anyway.
 
It ran fine and I didn't notice any missing once I got her fired up.
I don't know where else the water would be coming from.
I know it didn't get hot while I was running it.
I'd be more than happy to hear it's just about anything but the headgasket!
 
Pulled the carbs and found I'd missed putting an o-ring between the right rear (#3?) Carb and the plenum. :doh: carb leak solved.
I'll fire her up tomorrow when I get home from work and see about the water on cyl #1. Nothing in there this evening, but radiator is only half full and only static pressure on it. We shall see :pray:
 
I'd be more than happy to hear it's just about anything but the headgasket!

Well, it COULD be a cracked head or something. :lol2: Unless it IS the carbs leaking into it, the head gasket is about the easiest/cheapest job I can think of that it might me. But, I blew the head gasket on the left side and it died on the cylinder it was leaking in, about 2 miles across down. I got it home no problems, but it was givin' white smoke all the way, water fouled the plug. Once the parts got here, the job didn't take much over an hour. Of course, I have air tools to take everything apart with. But, I always assemble with hand tools and, of course, it takes a bit longer to torque down head bolts and such with a torque wrench. I take my time and concentrate on the job. I learned to do that years ago. :trust::lol2: I cannot stand the pressure working in a bike shop being forced to get things done fast. That's how things get screwed up. Kudos to those that can handle that sort of work. Me, when I'm slow, I'm thorough. When I get in a hurry, well, I don't do that. :lol2:
 
After messing with it some more, at the very least the head gasket is blown. Getting oil in the water and vice versa :doh:

I'm heading out of town next week, so I'll order gaskets and all the other bits that need done while thats out when I get back.
 
I haven't got them off yet. Been working on the cage in what little spare time I have right now.
Need to get cranking on those heads though before I get started on the FILs GL1200 carbs
 
Well, I replaced the head gaskets, bolted it all back together, unstopped the idle jets in the carbs (again).
Just when I thought I was close to getting it on the road (again) It looks (sounds?) like I have either a rod or piston loose.

I'm going to go use my 9mm paper punch to blow off some steam :miffed:
 
Well, I replaced the head gaskets, bolted it all back together, unstopped the idle jets in the carbs (again).
Just when I thought I was close to getting it on the road (again) It looks (sounds?) like I have either a rod or piston loose.

I'm going to go use my 9mm paper punch to blow off some steam :miffed:

Was it making this sound prior to changing the head gaskets?
 
no, I am pretty sure it was not making the noise prior to the headgasket change.
I checked the cylinder walls while the heads were off and they looked good.
The knocking/tapping isn't there at idle, but even a slight increase in RPM and its there.
I've double checked to be sure the rocker arms aren't doing it and all is well in there.
the sound is very centralized in the engine.
 
no, I am pretty sure it was not making the noise prior to the headgasket change.
I checked the cylinder walls while the heads were off and they looked good.
The knocking/tapping isn't there at idle, but even a slight increase in RPM and its there.
I've double checked to be sure the rocker arms aren't doing it and all is well in there.
the sound is very centralized in the engine.

Is it getting oil? When you pull the valve covers off is there alot of oil in the top end? You could leave the covers off and start it briefly. You'll know right off the bat if your getting oil pressure...
 
Oil pressure was first thought, its squirting oil with the valve covers off.
Double-check the valve clearances already.

I've got new exhaust gaskets/copper seal things in it, and I'm pretty sure I don't have an exhaust leak at the head, though its hard to tell as I crossover is leaking pretty good.
I'm 99% certain it's not an exhaust leak.
 
Oil pressure was first thought, its squirting oil with the valve covers off.
Double-check the valve clearances already.

I've got new exhaust gaskets/copper seal things in it, and I'm pretty sure I don't have an exhaust leak at the head, though its hard to tell as I crossover is leaking pretty good.
I'm 99% certain it's not an exhaust leak.

I'm just trying to think what could have changed when you did the head gaskets. I think your going to need to pull the timing belt covers and recheck valve timing. It's real easy to get it off when your putting the belts on.
 
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