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Africa Twin thread

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bjhughes said:
At that time I am also going to convert the wheels to tubeless ...
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Riders,

What do you think is the best method to convert to tubeless? Should I replace my wheels with tubeless wheels or convert my existing wheels to tubeless?
 
I did the tape and spoke seal conversion for about 20k miles. Don’t use dynabeads if you convert. Front wheel does not have a rim lock second ridge, so choose wisely.

Personally I now prefer tubes. If you get a flat and break a bead on the trail...good luck setting the bead with a portable compressor.

I can change a tube in about 30 minutes, no big deal. I know one can plug a tire in 5.

However, if i plug a tire I am thinking about that plug until I wear the tire out and get a new one.

Even with tubeless you still have to carry spare tubes for the big what if?

I also run dynabeads in my tubes FYI.

Also, I love my $50 tpms from Amazon.
 
Richard, I used the Outex Tubless kit, ordered it from ebay. It worked perfect for the two years I owned the bike. There are a ton of youtube videos that suggest grinding down the nipples, don't do that. Just put the buttons on, lay down the tape, good to go.

www.ebay.com

CRF1000L CRF1100L Africa Twin Tubeless Kit 21×2.15WM18×4.00 MT/FR21214 OUTEX | eBay

This product is Front & Rear Set for CRF1000L / CRF1100L Africa Twin / DID Rim. Part Number:FR21214. OUTEX CLEAR TUBELESS KIT. "Features of the OUTEX clear tubeless kits". Or search the right title on YouTube → OUTEX Tubeless Kit.
www.ebay.com

woodyswheelworks.com

Outex Tubeless Kit

The Outex Tubeless Kit for tubeless motorcycle wheels is durable, easy to install and reduces the risk of blown tires. Make your motorcycle wheels tubeless today with Outex's tubeless wheel kit!
woodyswheelworks.com woodyswheelworks.com

advrider.com

OUTEX Tubless Conversion

After a long time deliberating , bit the bullet and fitted the OUTEX tubeless conversion kit to my spoke wheels. Easy and worked well (well they...
advrider.com advrider.com
 
Flipit said:
That bike would sure look nice with a pair of Givi Trekkers on it.

www.twtex.com

DAL/FTW: - >>>SOLD<<< Givi Trekker Outback Luggage for Africa Twin 2016-2017 >>>SOLD<<<

>>>SOLD>SOLD
www.twtex.com www.twtex.com
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I have the rear rack. I took it off for now. I don't really plan to do any extended trips on my AT. I did order a tail bag for it and I already have a small handlebar bag. If I need to pack luggage, I'm taking my Harley and staying on the pavement. I grew up racing dirtbikes for 15+ years. The AT is not a dirtbike. Too big and heavy. Some dirt roads? Maybe, but at 63 years old I'm not looking to relive my dirtbike exploits.
 
I had slow leaks in both of my Outex rear wheel only installs. If the bike sat a few days, it was flat. Air it up and ride all day and all was good. Then add a little more air the next day.

To me that was preferable to a 2+ hour rear tube swap on the side of the road. For the front, I just left it tubed and didn't have flats there.
 
Jarrett said:
... For the front, I just left it tubed and didn't have flats there.
Click to expand...
I have a couple of AT buddies that went tubeless, and both had issues with the front tire. The issue was the bead, not the spokes. Both went back to tubes in the front. I personally don't trust a tubeless setup on the stock AT rims.
 
I used the Outex kits to convert my BMW to tubeless. It worked great, but I'm following this conversion for the AT:


Truth is, I will most likely be about 90 to 95% riding this thing on pavement so I prefer tubeless. I've experienced tube and tubeless flats many times over the years. Typically happens when you are way out in BFE with no help or services to be found. I carry a Stop & Go plug kit with pump. I thought about maybe leaving the tube in the front, but reality is for mostly street use I'm not worried about popping the bead on the front.
 
I am running Outex both wheels and very happy. Had an early rear flat I believe due to my installation. Put a tube in it and left it in until the tire needed replacing. The tube healed whatever the problem was. Pulled the tube when I changed the tire all is good tubeless. Front has been flawless. I haven't had to add air in 2 or 3 months. Currently running K60 on front, and original style E07 rear.

I still carry tubes in the event of a bent wheel off road that that won't seal at the bead.
 
5f217ee12a8022b3a5484e43229c7fc2.jpg

d1a2e07268a6352877462be7527177bb.jpg

The stock windscreen was OK for me – not terrible, not great. So I decided to try the wind screen system from Britannia composites. The screen is adjustable up-and-down. In the down position it’s 3 inches or so lower than the stock screen. In the upper position it’s about 5 inches taller than the stock screen.

I need to do more testing but it does seem to be somewhat better than the stock screen.

And per the advice received here on TWT, I added the camel brace too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Gentlemen,

I present the Swegotech Forkshield.
062612422665--1841220087276558388-IMG_1258_heic-XL.jpg


020062612421140-39677257536679452-IMG_1257_heic-XL.jpg


I get some helmet buffeting, especially when the windscreen is raised. The theory is the buffeting is from wind coming up the space between the forks and gas tank. This shield is designed to divert that wind and, thus, eliminate the helmet shake.

I just installed it today and haven't had a chance to test it yet. I will report back when I do.
 
I had that on my VTX. Theory was that low pressure was created behind the windshield causing air to rush up around the tank much like you experience . Venting the shield solved much of the problem. Not saying you should do that on your AT. Helped on my X bike.
 
I filled the gap with some left over fork tunnel foam filters from my Goldwing. Swegotech wouldn’t work for me because I have a Scott’s steering stabilizer.

Either covering that hole solved my problems.
 
misterk said:
Rich, do you miss that pesky little clutch lever?
Click to expand...

I haven't decided yet. :shock:

My friends all told me I was making a mistake buying the DCT version. They said I wouldn't like it.

One buddy, who happens to own a DCT AT, said he likes his a lot and thought I would enjoy having a DCT.

I've put 1000 miles on the bike. So far there have been many times when I like the DCT. There have been a few where I miss the clutch.

I haven't figured out if I like the DCT more than I miss a manual clutch. I'll probably reach a conclusion after 5000 miles or so.
 
I haven't ridden a DCT bike in 7 months or so. I'd kind of like to try it again and see if it feels weird now. I now actually have more miles on non-DCT bikes than I do on DCT bikes, which seems a bit odd.

I can totally see if you are riding 2,000 miles with a Jeep full of stuff on your bike like misterk that not having to worry about shifting would be really nice. But when I'm out being a hooligan, which is much more often than it should be, I REALLY like having total control over every aspect of shifting. So many little nuances with that.

The main thing I really miss about DCT right now, the auto downshift when coming to a stop. Especially, in a hurry. Even in manual mode, it does it. I don't know how many times I've come to a stop on non-DCT bikes only to realize I'm in 3rd or 6th or something and have to do a clunky quickshift before I can leave. With DCT, its always in 1st at the stop, ready to roll. Wish all bikes had that feature.
 
Trail Boss said:
I haven't decided yet. :shock:

My friends all told me I was making a mistake buying the DCT version. They said I wouldn't like it.

One buddy, who happens to own a DCT AT, said he likes his a lot and thought I would enjoy having a DCT.

I've put 1000 miles on the bike. So far there have been many times when I like the DCT. There have been a few where I miss the clutch.

I haven't figured out if I like the DCT more than I miss a manual clutch. I'll probably reach a conclusion after 5000 miles or so.
Click to expand...
I bought a DCT model only because that's what the guy had and I got a screaming ridiculous deal. I've put 17,000 miles on it, and so far the only time I didn't like it is while racing some guys up a mountain through some twisties. And even that could have been remedied by just putting the bike in manual. The engineers at Honda built this bike so the rider could concentrate less on the mechanical experience and more on the environment around them. I feel like they did a very good job. No one has revoked my Man Card, and I still get laid, so everything is ok.
 
I like the DCT too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Trail Boss said:
Gentlemen,

I present the Swegotech Forkshield.
View attachment 267260

View attachment 267261

I get some helmet buffeting, especially when the windscreen is raised. The theory is the buffeting is from wind coming up the space between the forks and gas tank. This shield is designed to divert that wind and, thus, eliminate the helmet shake.

I just installed it today and haven't had a chance to test it yet. I will report back when I do.
Click to expand...


Interesting. I experience uncomfortable wind currents (steady blast of air coming up under the helmet, irritating my eyes) on my Wee IF i don't have the tank bag on it. The bag is worn out, sun faded but I fear changing it, lest a new one not do the job of deflecting the wind like this one does.

Anyway, carry on, gentlemen.
 
Flipit said:
The engineers at Honda built this bike so the rider could concentrate less on the mechanical experience
Click to expand...

I like said mechanical experience. I'll agree they did a good job, but I much prefer having a clutch. ****, I wish my truck wasn't an automatic. I can live with it on the truck, but I'd never tolerate it on a bike. The bike is for fun!
 
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