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Africa Twin thread

Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Messages
21
Location
The Woodlands
Happy Father's Day to all!

Yes, I've ridden in Sam Houston years ago, before permits were required on a dirt bike. It's mostly tight single track.not sure I'd take the AT in there, but maybe I'd try.
There are several paved FM roads through the area though, and some gravel back roads.
Been meaning to go to Bastrop and meet up with some of the guys that ride some trails there, but haven't yet. Used to ride in my grandpa's farm below Elgin and Manor way back when. Out on Hogeye road. Place has sure changed a lot since then.

There is a route from Mason, down near Doss, with some Creek crossings I'd like to see soon. Maybe when it cools a bit, it would be a good starter route? I'll have to look up the name of the roads. Maybe you've heard of them.

Furthest west on the bike so far is LaGrange.
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
1,256
Location
Elgin
Happy Fathers day. No riding was done this weekend. Spent the time with pop. Now a whole week of rain and I don't have rain gear. Thinking Saturday may be my day!
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Messages
21
Location
The Woodlands
Yeah, no riding here, either. And this coming weekend the kids want to take me somewhere for my B'day. Hope they bring me back! Haha.
Hopefully, the next weekend is clear
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Messages
21
Location
The Woodlands
The road out near Mason that I was thinking of is James River Road. Traced it on Google Earth, and looks pretty good. Probably too long for a weekend ride from the Houston area, though.

Decided not to even bother checking out the new AT Friday. My AT is running great, no problems that I know of, other than it's parked too much.
 

Jarrett

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Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
1,429
Location
Waxahachie
Rode Jason River Rd (and many others) last weekend on my AT. Good times.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJgxkA-vhdc"]Hill Country Dirt - YouTube[/ame]
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Messages
21
Location
The Woodlands
Jarrett,
Nice, liked the video. That area looks great, but I'd have to overnight somewhere. Just need to make time. Always seem to find these rides right after they are finished.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
1,256
Location
Elgin
Has anyone done their own valve check? Has anyone had to adjust them? I'm at 13k miles and was going to have Woods check them while I had the do the tires and brakes. But they wanted 1000 for the valve check! That seems way high to me. It takes maybe 45 mins to strip the bike down. So I can see an hr for that, but they are saying its an 8 hr job. I'm guessing they want me to pay for their lunch time too.

Anyways, guess I'm just going to have to do the tires and brakes myself. I just didn't want to have to spend the time in the hot garage!

Any idea on a set of tires that are more road? I'm looking for more of an 80-20.

OH, and which pads are you using?
 

Jarrett

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Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
1,429
Location
Waxahachie
I've only changed the oil on mine so far.

And I've been running the Shinko 804/TKC80 combo after stock.

I'll be lucky if I get 3,000 out of the TKC80 rear.
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
1,256
Location
Elgin
I've only changed the oil on mine so far.

And I've been running the Shinko 804/TKC80 combo after stock.

I'll be lucky if I get 3,000 out of the TKC80 rear.
I have the 804/805 now. I don't like the on road feel of them. 90% of my ride is on the hardball to work and back. So I'm just going back to a more street tire.
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
1,256
Location
Elgin
Picking their noses is two-man, two-hour job at Woods...
Seems like it. I will say I've had good service at the parts counter. The only issue there is they don't seem to know their parts. It took two guys to look up my brakes and then they didn't know if they had the tires in stock. On that note, we had difference of opinions on what the definition of IN STOCK meant. They said they had them in stock at their Dallas location (somewhere north). I laughed and said I thought in stock meant you had them on hand, in THIS store. He didn't reply.:trust:
 

Jarrett

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Apr 12, 2018
Messages
1,429
Location
Waxahachie
I have the 804/805 now. I don't like the on road feel of them. 90% of my ride is on the hardball to work and back. So I'm just going back to a more street tire.
I couldn't tell much difference between the 804/TKC80 from my stock tires on the road, which surprised me. But man does that rear tire wear fast.

I think I'm going to reverse it next time. TKC80 front, Shinko 805 rear. I'm always trying to get my AT off pavement though.

I thought about the Shinko 70x tires, but I hear really mixed reviews on them regarding traction both on and off the pavement.
 

kubotamiketx

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Joined
Feb 29, 2016
Messages
793
Location
Austin
I loved the set of Pirelli MT90AT tires I put on my twin that I ordered a new set the other day and will put them on when I take off the Mitas E07's.

They work perfectly on the road and really great on the hill country stuff we have around here. Even did the Hill Country 500 in the rain 2 years ago with them. The wet slim is a challenge but still road the entire loop the second day in the rain with them.


https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/pirelli-mt90at-enduro-dual-sport-tires
 

kubotamiketx

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Joined
Feb 29, 2016
Messages
793
Location
Austin
Oh that is a bit of a shocker about the cost for the valve check. Need to check the service manual, if it requires taking off the tank and airbox, then I can understand the 8 hours. Getting all the way down to the airbox is a PIA and I am not anxious to do it again anytime soon. Glad I am only at about 7,000 miles then :)
 

misterk

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Joined
Jul 21, 2015
Messages
899
Location
Colleyville
Replaced rear spring with cogent 10.7kg.

Suspension set up just right for me now. No revalving required.

sag is now set where I like it.

I also replaced fluid in forks with 10w.

ac21802abaf4f52535f02c342bcc5991.jpg
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
2,296
Location
League City, Texas
Back in ‘06 when I was shopping for a new XR650L and while working in Austin one week, I stopped by Woods to see what they had to offer. The sales guy said they didn’t have one in stock, but would get back to me when they did. Galveston Honda got one in and they made me a deal on it below MSRP. Got a call from Woods saying they located one and would sell it to me for MSRP plus the shipping cost to get it sent to them. So not surprised by what they asking for a valve adjustment check.
On a different note, what are you guys using for driving lights? I’ve got an Eastern Beaver relay kit to install and would like to put on some driving lights as well. Whatcha usinin’?
 

kubotamiketx

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Joined
Feb 29, 2016
Messages
793
Location
Austin
By the way my wife just discovered you can get 15% off parts, accessories and service at woods and other dealers if you are a member of Costco.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

misterk

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Joined
Jul 21, 2015
Messages
899
Location
Colleyville
like a champ. I am on my second mitas. when I was in colorado in june, I couldnt get to come out of valve stem. The rubber spoke protector I left on over the tape shifted and covered the valve stem. I removed it when I got back and installed a new mitas.

Did you fix your rear yet? (tire....lol)

I am also using the balancing beads inside the tire, very smooth.
Kevin:

How is your tubeless set up working?

Thanks

Rich
Sent from my Acer Chromebook R11 (CB5-132T / C738T) using Tapatalk
 
Joined
May 29, 2005
Messages
4,594
Location
Out Riding
like a champ. I am on my second mitas. when I was in colorado in june, I couldnt get to come out of valve stem. The rubber spoke protector I left on over the tape shifted and covered the valve stem. I removed it when I got back and installed a new mitas.

Did you fix your rear yet? (tire....lol)

I am also using the balancing beads inside the tire, very smooth.

Sent from my Acer Chromebook R11 (CB5-132T / C738T) using Tapatalk
Thanks

Haven't fixed mine yet. Still working on wearing out the tire. It has 8300 miles on and still has a long ways to go.
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
1,256
Location
Elgin
Well, the Texas heat did me in. The bike is at the dealer getting brakes and tires. I'm not fighting the heat.
 

kubotamiketx

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Joined
Feb 29, 2016
Messages
793
Location
Austin
I just came in from my workshop trying to install new air filters in the twin but the little window ac can’t cool the space down enough to want to say out there for morn than a few mins.

Guess tomorrow is supposed to be a bit cooler


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

kubotamiketx

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Feb 29, 2016
Messages
793
Location
Austin
This is insane weather all over the nation, 105 in Austin today, will be in Ouray CO this Saturday, highs in the 80's :)
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
1,256
Location
Elgin
Im in Glacier National Park on my AT and it is 90+.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Seems kind of normal for this time of year. The record high for July is 97. Monday the high temp between Manor and Elgin was 113! 3rd highest recorded.:giveup:
 

misterk

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Joined
Jul 21, 2015
Messages
899
Location
Colleyville
The cogent rear spring was the ticket! No more wallowing front end, geometry is how the oem is without rider or luggage:)
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
1,256
Location
Elgin
The cogent rear spring was the ticket! No more wallowing front end, geometry is how the oem is without rider or luggage:)
I may go that route. But it'll be a while. Just got mine back from woods. New tires and brakes. The new more street times sure make a world of difference on the toll road. So much more stable and that's makes the ride more enjoyable for me.:rider:
 

Jarrett

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Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
1,429
Location
Waxahachie
My last tire change was done at a KTM dealer. I'm getting ready to attempt my first DIY rear tire change on my AT and noticed this:

at_stop.jpg


I'm guessing that's not right, but not sure what right looks like.

My CRF250L looks like this:
250_stop.jpg


What's going on in that AT pic and what do I need to fix there?
 

misterk

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Joined
Jul 21, 2015
Messages
899
Location
Colleyville
Who did that work on the bike? I'm still kicking around suspension upgrades.


Me, I took the shock to shop that had a spring compressor. Took them 10 minutes! Easy install and remove.

Todd at cogent said this was the best spring for my weight with gear without revalving. I will probably add a shin to the rebound this winter. I told him I weighed 195 and gear was probably 60??

Btw, the spring is only $150 shipped!
 

Jarrett

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Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
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Location
Waxahachie
Me, I took the shock to shop that had a spring compressor. Took them 10 minutes! Easy install and remove.

Todd at cogent said this was the best spring for my weight with gear without revalving. I will probably add a shin to the rebound this winter. I told him I weighed 195 and gear was probably 60??

Btw, the spring is only $150 shipped!
Very cool, thanks for the info.
 

Crew Chief

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Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
3,323
Location
Rendon TX
What's going on in that AT pic and what do I need to fix there?
Those are the adjusters for the chain tension. The bolt heads should be in contact with the blocks. There is likely an alignment mark on both sides of the bike and they should should be adjusted the same. The nut is a lock nut. It should be snug against the base of the bolt, not the head.

Edit: On the AT, those lines are likely the marks that you want to be equal from side to side.
 
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Jarrett

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Apr 12, 2018
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Waxahachie
Those are the adjusters for the chain tension. The bolt heads should be in contact with the blocks. There is likely an alignment mark on both sides of the bike and they should should be adjusted the same. The nut is a lock nut. It should be snug against the base of the bolt, not the head.

Edit: On the AT, those lines are likely the marks that you want to be equal from side to side.
Thanks for the info. I'll get them adjusted before I remove the wheel. Much appreciated.
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
2,296
Location
League City, Texas
On a lot of bikes, those marks aren’t accurate - not sure about the AT. Usually the best way to do it is adjust the chain side to get the correct tension on the chain and then adjust the other side so the rear sprocket aligns with the center of the chain (not hitting the links on the left or right side as the chain meshes with the sprocket teeth. There are tools you can buy to make sure it’s properly adjusted. But, if you take your time and sight it from the rear, you should be able to get it properly aligned.
 

UncleBuck

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Joined
Aug 13, 2016
Messages
102
Location
Fort Worth
Those are the adjusters for the chain tension. The bolt heads should be in contact with the blocks. There is likely an alignment mark on both sides of the bike and they should should be adjusted the same. The nut is a lock nut. It should be snug against the base of the bolt, not the head.

Edit: On the AT, those lines are likely the marks that you want to be equal from side to side.


The below is from the service manual:

3b9bb81257facbaaf47422ad8aac66b3.jpg


Edit: The marks on my AT are pretty close to even. I’ve verified it with a chain alignment tool as well.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
1,256
Location
Elgin
On a lot of bikes, those marks aren’t accurate - not sure about the AT. Usually the best way to do it is adjust the chain side to get the correct tension on the chain and then adjust the other side so the rear sprocket aligns with the center of the chain (not hitting the links on the left or right side as the chain meshes with the sprocket teeth. There are tools you can buy to make sure it’s properly adjusted. But, if you take your time and sight it from the rear, you should be able to get it properly aligned.
Hey, never thought of doing that way. Sounds MUCH easier and probably more accurate than me eye balling it from behind! lol:trust:
 

Jarrett

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Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
1,429
Location
Waxahachie
On a lot of bikes, those marks aren’t accurate - not sure about the AT. Usually the best way to do it is adjust the chain side to get the correct tension on the chain and then adjust the other side so the rear sprocket aligns with the center of the chain (not hitting the links on the left or right side as the chain meshes with the sprocket teeth. There are tools you can buy to make sure it’s properly adjusted. But, if you take your time and sight it from the rear, you should be able to get it properly aligned.
At first glance, there seems to be a cover over the top of the chain that prevents the eye ball method. Has anyone tried it this way?
 

misterk

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Joined
Jul 21, 2015
Messages
899
Location
Colleyville
Put another oem chain on yesterday. Got 20k miles out of first one. It had a tight spot in it, so decided to change it.

I am happy! I change my sprockets out every other chain. Tutoro Oiler works like a charm.
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
1,256
Location
Elgin
Put another oem chain on yesterday. Got 20k miles out of first one. It had a tight spot in it, so decided to change it.

I am happy! I change my sprockets out every other chain. Tutoro Oiler works like a charm.
I'm right at 14000 on mine. I'm not sure how to tell when you need one other than when it stretches so far you can't adjust it.
 
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