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Almost OT: HFT Trailer Ramblings

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Cedar Park, Texas, USA
This is a long, boring, tedious post. Please skip it if you don't have patience for digging into a creative mechanical problem.

As a suburban dad, some 5 years ago I embarked on a project to build a deck and other things on the back of our house and as a part of the project, one critical tool I bought was a Harbor Freight 4x8 folding utility trailer. I figure I'd need a way to move materials to complete the project without ruining my almost-new Wrangler Unlimited. Turns out I have used this trailer a whole lot since then. Just this last week we used it to haul gravel, dirt, mulch, and concrete paving stones. In the past two months I've used it to haul junk from my garage cleanup project and two loads of tree branches and brush from the snowmageddon fallout, plus bringing home my gigantic tool chest. I basically use this for anything most of you would use a full size pickup truck for, but I prefer it over a truck because it's much lower to the ground and of course I don't have a truck. All this to say, this particular trailer has been the right one, the right size, and very usable for us. But now that it's about 5 years old, it's time for me to do some rebuilding and refurbishing so I thought I'd ask the smart folks here for some input.

Here's the crux of my problem. Our house sits about 10 or 12 ft above the street grade. Our driveway is about a 20% grade. That's steep, y'all. Given our HOA rules, I have to store the trailer out of sight. So I use the folding feature to store it upright and folded against the privacy fence on one side of the house. The routine for me to get the trailer down and use it is to roll out on the casters in folded form along the paved walkway out from the side of the house to the first big flat paved spot, then set it down and unfold it, and then by hand I have to haul it down the driveway and finish assembling it on the street (putting the sides on, etc.). When I am finished with it, the reverse, which includes pulling it by hand up the driveway at great effort. It's just heavy enough with only the decking on it (3/4" PT plywood) that it barely doesn't run me over going down the driveway and even though I am pretty strong and fit, it is just almost my limit to pull it up the driveway. I can't do this if the driveway is wet, my feet can't get enough traction on the pavement to take it up or down.

OK. So there's a problem I am trying to solve. My opportunity to solve it is at hand since I need to take it apart to service the wiring, replace one broken light, wire-wheel some rust, replace some rusted fasteners and repaint it. I will probably replace the decking while I am at it, since I will have to take the old decking off and might as well put something new on there.

To make it easier to handle getting in and out of the back yard, I already upgraded the casters to much larger ones to roll more easily over the paving stones in the side yard where it sits. I think if I could reduce the weight any at all it would greatly improve my ability to move it while it's folded.

OK so here is the project list where I would like some input:

  • Decking options lighter than 3/4" plywood. The frame has openings that are about 2' x 4' with no reinforcements between, so whatever I put here has to be strong enough to span those spaces without undue bending or breaking. I would seriously consider galvanized expanded metal mesh but I am afraid it would bend over the 2x4 ft span, although I could reinforce it with angle if needed. At a minimum I think I am going with 5/8" or 1/2" plywood next time. I'm open to other ideas.
  • Sides. My current sides are 16" high made from 1/2" PT plywood with PT 2x4s to fit in the pockets on the edges of the trailer. They are warped and a huge pain to use. The corners don't hold together well. There's no good way to do the "tail gate". I need a whole new idea. Here's where maybe making one foot high sides from galvanized expanded metal and some angle like you use to hang garage door openers for framing would maybe work very well, hooking them to the trailer using hinges that can be easily separated. Remember I have to completely remove and install these sides every time I use the trailer, and like the trailer they are stored up the hill on a storage rack at the back of my house.
  • I need to add some hooks to the frame to attach ratchet straps. When I build new sides I will put hooks on to attach a cargo net. Suggestions for what kind of hooks will work best for this?
  • I have a big plastic tool box I want to mount to the trailer on the tongue, but it needs to be a quick release on off kind of thing. Ideas for how to mount something like this? Again, we're concerned with adding weight to the trailer.
  • Pretty sure I am going to get a trailer dolly to help me move this thing up and down the driveway, but I need a more complete solution.
    • There's no way a powered trailer dolly would have enough traction on the driveway to be useful.
    • Mounting a winch to the floor/wall of the garage to pull the trailer. The trailer is rated for about 1100 lb so the entire thing loaded would only be 1500lb or less, and pulling that on wheels up a 20% grade is only like 300-400 lb of actual load on a winch. A 1500lb ATV winch would work perfectly for this. Problem is steering it.
    • Before you guys suggest I just learn to back it up the driveway attached to the Jeep, the problem with this is that there is no flat spot large enough to unload the trailer with it attached to the Jeep. I'd have to back the entire trailer into the garage, which only has one-car wide openings and doesn't have enough empty space to put the trailer in. When I pull it up manually, I have to turn it 90 degrees so it's perpendicular to the garage door opening. I can't do that with a car. And I still am not sure the hitch could handle the articulation necessary to make the breakover angles on and off a 20% grade.
    • Trailer mounted manual winch would require someone to crank it and someone else to steer the trailer dolly. Electric winch would add too much weight. I would consider a way to temporarily mount an AC-powered electric winch like on a 1-1/4" receiver bolted to the front frame of the trailer, running on a long extension cord. Then I could hook it to anything and pull it up, like a ring on the fence post or the garage floor.
    • Any other ideas, I'm all ears. I would be able to use this trailer a lot more if it was not such a monumental effort to get it up and down my driveway.
  • Of course I would consider trading this for a different trailer. I'm tempted to just sell it as-is and buy an aluminum 4x8 trailer with permanently attached low sides and just modify it to make it possible to tilt it to its side and roll it into the back yard. I could even just build some kind of dolly to hold a trailer in this upright-sideways position and pull it along, kind of like a stretch limo version of a garden cart.

Sorry for the drawn out post.
 
Where is the first big flat spot you mentioned? Is it down at the bottom of the driveway or up at the top? If it is up at the top, why not once the trailer is unfolded, just back up said tow vehicle to it and hook up to it there? Same for putting it away, back it up most of the way up the driveway, unhook it at or near the top and move it the rest of the way from there?

Second, can it not fold up and stay in the garage for easier access? If that is the case, you could back it straight into the garage and then unhook/fold it up.

As for the corners not holding up, and whatnot, I've squared up and welded a few of these in the past for friends. Once you do that to them, they become worlds better than when they are just bolted together. As for hooks, I actually like to use links of chain and just weld them to the frame of the trailer where I need them.

I have what sounds like a very similar driveway (just ask any of these TWT'ers that have had the joy of trying to back their bike down my driveway after we work on it), and I eventually put a side driveway up and around the house to keep 2 trailers parked.
 
This is a long, boring, tedious post.

Not really 'round these parts. I thought about the winch up the driveway, attach a couple bridle cables to both front edges of the trailer then hook it in the middle, and it SHOULD pull up straight fairly well. Other than that, bribe the HOA?
 
The flat spot is about 5 ft. I can put the trailer on it sideways. Can't get it up there in that orientation with it hooked to the Jeep. Plus, the angle the hitch would have to be at the street to back it in is way more than the 15 degrees that the hitch ball can take, and the angle at the top of the driveway when it breaks the other way is probably right at 15 degrees if not more. It's just not reasonable to try and get a trailer up and down this driveway using a vehicle to move it.

For example, recently we had 5 yards of gravel and a pallet of sod delivered to the house and they parked it all at the top of the driveway. The forklift stalled several times trying to get the 1 yard pallets of gravel up the driveway. The forklift spun out frequently with the grass pallet because the grass was not heavy enough to give traction. The 4x4 ft pallets just fit on the flat, with enough space to squeeze behind and open the garage doors. This driveway is steep! I swear one of the main reasons my wife and I stay fit is because we have to go up and down this driveway all the time for the past 20 years.

Th corners I mentioned not holding together are on my wood sides, not the trailer frame. So I need to use specialized corner brackets when I build new sides. The trailer itself has been solid. My only complaint about this trailer besides the fading red powder coat is the effort to move it up and down the driveway, and of course the weight of the trailer to tilt it up and down to fold. If I were a welder, I might consider welding the corners of the frame but frankly this has never been an issue with this trailer. The main mods I would consider for this trailer are all about weight reduction and ease of movement.
 
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Anyone have more input on this?

For lightweight decking, I am thinking of using Douglas fir or yellow pine 1x6s with a reasonably large gap between them of an inch or more, and coating them with linseed oil for rot resistance. I'll use a tarp if I need stuff to not fall between them.

To attach the sides, I am considering using break apart hinges like we use on guitar pedalboards. I just can't find any galvanized or stainless, but I guess gate hinges are powder coated and last a decade or more in the weather so they should be ok. Probably will use a pair of butterfly latches to hold the sides to the front gate, and specialized trailer gate latches in the back.

I'm still undecided on what to make the sides out of. For purely appearance sake, I like expanded steel with a steel angle frame. It's probably a lightweight enough solution but expensive.

Still no good ideas on attaching my tool box.

I'll probably start this project next week, at least repainting and rewiring the basic trailer frame and putting new decking.
 
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I don't have much to offer, but for ratchet strap hook points you can install stainless steel T-nuts in holes located where on the decking you want. Then use a round eye bolt with threaded end, plus a fender washer so you can tighten against the deck. These can be removed if you need to vacate the deck. I did this on my HF trailer, for both the hooks and the wheel chock. Most of the time I use mine as a utility trailer and need a clean deck for loading up at Home Depot.

I think you'd be hard pressed to find anything substantially lighter than PT 3/4" plywood for decking. Any steel reinforcement you add to the trailer frame to support thinner stock is just going to add weight back in. Realistically, a sheet of 4x8 isn't that heavy compared to the overall weight of the HF trailer.

FWIW, my HOA is pretty anal about keeping homes visibly clear too. Since I have a huge backyard, I didn't even bother to get the foldable trailer. I modified the 4ft tall fence between my house and detached garage, so the center 8ft section is easily removable with 8 screws. I can roll my non-foldable 4x8 (deck expanded to some 4.5x9 with a V-nose) in and out of my backyard in maybe 5min.
 
Thanks MidlifeCrisis... PT 3/4" plywood is really heavy ... and in my case it is degraded enough to warrant replacement. I think I am going to go with 1x6 Southern Yellow Pine boards with gaps between since they should be strong enough to walk on over 2' spans they have to cover and probably with 1-1.5" gaps my guess is the decking overall will be half the weight of PT plywood. Every pound counts when you have to pull this sucker up and down the driveway manually like I do.

For ratchet strap tie-downs, I like the idea of putting them on top of the deck. Given that I am going to put gaps in my decking between boards, I might just put some hooks between the boards. I'll figure something out.

Like you, most of the time I use my trailer to haul stuff home from the home store or nursery. I only use the sides when I have to haul brush which is about once or twice a year max. Plus, they don't have to be very strong to just keep brush from falling out. It's not like I'm moving furniture or appliances all the time.
 
OK, I am talking to myself here... But I am thinking of using some aluminum 6 ft or so long ramps as sides, since they will also double as ramps. Something like this:


Still working out how to affix them. I think the best bet is probably the break-apart hinges. I think this would greatly improve the "utility" of my utility trailer, since part of the time I need it, I need ramps. And the ramps doubling as sides would reduce the number of things I have to store.

I might use some cattle wire (welded wire mesh) for the rest of the front (side) and to span the space up to where it meets with my ramp/sides. I actually have some of that here. I can make up a frame from galvanized steel angle and just bolt the mesh to the frame using P-clips or small U-bolts. This part can hook to the trailer using lift-off hinges and a couple of clevis pins through the frame to keep it from slipping up and off over bumps.

Also thinking of putting some E-tracks in between some of the decking in the gaps. Should be handy. And using D-rings on the edges for tie-downs in addition to the E-tracks. Still brainstorming how to connect to the side/ramps. Could be lift-off hinges will work here too.

I got inspiration for a rear tailgate from this thread: safari straps.
 
One thing you could do to stiffen those 1x6 SYP is to add pieces of the same 1x6 SYP (across and under the decking) mid-span in the 2x4 openings. This will tie the whole row of them together, so that when you step on 1 stick, the load gets transferred to adjacent sticks to help share the load. It is nowhere near as strong as adding angle iron, but it adds very little weight for a decent amount of stiffness gain.

I'm not sure I explained the eye bolt & T-nut well. The Eye bolt does get installed on top of the deck. You drill a hole where you want the tie down point to be, install the T-nut from under the deck, where they will stay permanently. Then whenever you want the hook, thread the eye bolt through the deck into the threaded T-nut, and tighten down.

There are different styles of T-nuts, some with pointed barbs that nail into the deck, others have holes for you to secure with small short screws.

Ss-Eye-Bolt-with-T-Nut.jpg
 
Yes I'm familiar with the tie-down idea and using T-nuts. I think I want to put the tie downs on the sides of the trailer frame so I can have a 4x8ft space without anything intruding in it to make it easier to move 4x8 sheet material. That's why I like the idea of E-track recessed within gaps between 1x6s as a tie-down method.

I think the 1x6 should support my weight one at a time over the 2' span. SYP is pretty strong. But if I had to I could always put a 2x4 brace so no span was larger than 1' using a pressure treated 2x4.
 
Oh, I just remembered something you could use for decking. Years ago I used foam-core plywood for a college lab project I worked on. It was crazy light and super strong. I had to special order from a local building supply store, so I don't know off hand where you could get it from where you are. Probably not cheap either, so take that for what it's worth.

There are similar engineered panels that uses end-brain balsa wood, which is even stronger and lighter than foam core. Airplanes use panels like that with aluminum skin for load floors. Yap, you might have stepped on balsa wood when you boarded commercial airliners and not know it.
38588-13807831.jpg


BTW, some interior doors are made like this, so that's a potential source for material.

Then again.. nothing says you couldn't make your own, out of foam sheet, thin plywood, and contact cement (or gorilla glue).
 
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I've never looked into it, but what about those composite decking boards? I expect they are lighter than pine and strong enough to load on...but maybe not.
 
I've never looked into it, but what about those composite decking boards? I expect they are lighter than pine and strong enough to load on...but maybe not.

They are much heavier than equivalent wood boards, and also very flexible. I happen to have a bunch of them left over from building my deck. It was a good idea though!
 
The aluminum idea sounds the best. They already make trailers out of it. I have an Aluma MC210 6.5x12 trailer. Aluma uses 1/8” aluminum panels that are 10” wide and have a stiffner in the middle of each panel at 5”.
 
I have all but certainly decided on southern yellow pine 1x6s for decking, treated with boiled linseed oil. It will be lighter than the current plywood and easy to replace one at a time if they are damaged. I wish I could find some lighter non wood material but they are all way too expensive.

It might seem nutty but I am seriously considering using one of these reinforced plastic shelving units as material to make the sides and front panel:

that has five 48"x20" plastic shelves that will neatly make two 8 ft sides and a 4 ft front.

Tie downs will be D rings bolted to the sides of the frame.

I'll probably start tearing down the trailer for paint this evening, plus pick up the boards and that shelf from Lowe's. I'll take pictures as I build it up.
 
Have you considered an eye bolt in the concrete at the top of the hill and a block and tackle for getting the trailer up/down? Safe, reliable, simple, compact and cheap.
 
Have you considered an eye bolt in the concrete at the top of the hill and a block and tackle for getting the trailer up/down? Safe, reliable, simple, compact and cheap.

Yeah. Not worth it. If I am going to solve the "get heavy stuff up the driveway" problem, I want to SOLVE it. I'm sure a hand winch bolted to a trailer dolly and hooked to an eye bolt attached to the back wall of the garage would work just fine to pull this 350 lb trailer up the hill, but it would be nice to be able to also pull motorcycles up the hill, I have a couple of Gorilla carts, one that is rated to hold 800 lb, man that'd be nice to be able to get heavy stuff up the hill in that cart, etc.

The cheapest thing to do to fix this problem is to attach a snatch block to a hook in the back wall of the garage and just use my Jeep's winch to pull stuff up the hill. But by the time I would get all that set up every time, I could have just pulled the trailer up manually.
 
Many years ago I replaced 2x6 board floor on my trailer with 5/4x6 treated pine decking, lighter and has held up well. If you want a really nice trailer I used red oak for deck I built. Treated with Cabot's Australian Timber Oil, it looks great.
 
I ordered parts:
- 12x stainless D-rings and 1/4" thread-cutting stainless bolts to attach them
- a bunch of aluminum lift-off hinges to use to attach side panels to one another
- 8x break-apart hinges to use to attach the side panels to the trailer frame
- a bunch of #10-24 stainless thread-cutting screws to attach decking to the trailer frame

All of that will get here by the weekend.

Before then, I will run by Lowe's and pick up 8x 8' SYP 1x6s, some boiled linseed oil, and one of those poly shelving systems which will provide the side panel base material. Forecast is for rain on and off the next couple of days, so I don't want to paint. I also plan to get some black paint, either rustoleum or something from Lowes (brush-on) or I might use the cheaper stuff from Tractor Supply Co. So on the weekend I'll probably cut up the decking boards and paint/treat them with BLO, take the trailer apart and drill the holes to mount all the stuff, then paint the trailer frame with black paint after giving the whole thing a rough scuff with a scotch brite pad.

Still to-do is buy new lights. I think the wiring is fine but one of my light lenses is broken so I might upgrade the lights while I'm at it.

I really was on the fence about this whole project since it's a few hundred dollars and I can rent a trailer many times for that money. Something to be said for not having to reserve one, go pick it up, etc. But in the end if I find I am not using this trailer frequently, I suppose I can always sell it, and you never get money back after you pay it on rent. And this trailer will be much more fit for my purposes with a bunch of D-rings and a modular design.
 
I took the trailer apart partially yesterday and got started on paint. Removed the old stake pockets, removed remnants of the wiring holders and their ruined adhesive, used the pressure washer to get it good and clean before paint.

I also made a trip to Lowe's for materials and managed to get a floor display model of a Craftsman branded 5 tier 24"x40" shelf to use for the sides. For $10! Came home with that plus 8 syp 1x6s and a quart of boiled linseed oil. I cut the boards down to 4 ft and put a 2:1 mixture of linseed oil and mineral spirits on one side, will do the other side today.

With any luck I should have a coat of paint on most of the trailer today.

One piece of bad news, looks like the thread cutting ss bolts I got are not tough enough to make threads in the trailer steel frame so I'll have to manually tap about a million holes or go buy a hundred nuts and lock washers.

Pics coming as I get closer to the finish line.
 
Trailer was dirty but in otherwise pretty good shape despite a couple of slight rust spots in places. It's about 5 years old and has been stored outside in the weather the whole time, so some rust was not that surprising. The zinc-plated hardware that came with it is holding up surprisingly well.

1618844808266.png

A little rust at the weld on the tongue. Also, the way this chain was connected stock is pretty dumb. Im going to change it when I put it back together.

1618844870561.png

Notice the missing nut? !!! Amazing that was holding together!
Red paint fades really badly, you can see here that sitting with the underside of the trailer exposed in this folded position resulted in lots of faded paint.

1618844973858.png

Same nut was still there on this side, but barely! I wonder what happened with the cotter pins that were in these bolts? Probably rusted and fell off.

BTW in the background of that picture above you can get an idea of how steep my driveway is. The limestone block retaining wall is stacked level. You can see why pulling this sucker up and down the driveway is a chore.

I managed to take this trailer apart enough to get some paint on it. On the inside of the U-channel, I painted with a brush using Rustoleum flat black alkyd enamel which I had laying around. This was time consuming and covered poorly. I removed the tongue entirely and painted it separately from the rest of the trailer, and I used Rustoleum flat black spray paint on the inside of the U channel here and it worked way better. I plan to put another coat of paint on the inside of the main frame U-channel with this same rattle can flat black.

I got one coat of paint on the bottom side and some of the sides. I used the Rustoleum rattle can flat black to cover bolt heads and complex spots that I can't get to with a roller just to get some color on it. The rest, I used a small foam roller with Tractor Supply Co.'s house brand matte black farm implement paint. The paint went on with a sort of beaded finish and did not level much at all, resulting in kind of a textured/beaded finish. As long as it holds up, I don't care. Looks good. However, it didn't cover perfectly, so I will be putting another coat on.

I also removed the wheels and repainted them. They had a tiny bit of surface rust showing mostly in the crease. I just cleaned them, masked, and painted with Rustoleum "appliance epoxy" in the "stainless steel" color, I had this laying around. It's going to look a whole lot better than the stock off white.

Next step is for me to unfold the trailer and put it up on jack stands so I can paint the top side and the rest. I'll put the tongue on saw horses. I'll roll on a 2nd coat on the bottom side while it's on jack stands and then put two coats on the whole top side.

I also finished the new decking boards with a 2:1 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits, rolled on with a trim roller on all sides. It took a long time to dry but those boards are ready to go.

I'll take some more pictures as I get it up on jacks to paint.

Once the paint is done, next step is to make a jig for drilling the #10 tapped holes in the top rails to mount the new decking, and drill the 1/4" tapped holes for the 12x D-rings I will mount along the edges of the frame rails. I'll drill through the decking into the frame so the screw holes align. The sides are going to attach with break-apart hinges in place of the stake pockets, so I'll put these hinges on, probably with pop rivets, maybe with more of these #10 screws.

More pictures to come! So far the paint is looking good enough and the new decking looks so good I won't want to put anything on it that might make a scratch or ding! And I'm going to be loathe to store it outisde. But I can always power wash it.

The one thing I am noticing is that my plywood decking did a big job of holding the trailer parts square, and the 1x6 decking will not do this nearly as well. I plan to affix all of the decking boards with two screws on each side but I have no illusions that it will keep it square nearly as well as the plywood did. But it should be a lot lighter. I haven't weighed the parts yet but off hand I'd have to guess it's going to be maybe 30 lb lighter with the solid pine decking than it was with the PT plywood. It will also lose the weight of the stake pockets, probably 5 lb total. For a 400 lb-ish trailer, losing close to 10% of the weight will be meaningful.

TODO: get some new trailer lights, secure the wiring loom, make up the sides and front/rear gates. There will be some creativity involved in this process!
 
One other thing, I think the reason my 1/4"-20 thread cutting screws weren't working is that I am just using the wrong size drill bit. I ordered a pair of Number 1 cobalt drill bits along with a set of cobalt bits that includes the 11/64 needed for my #10-24 thread cutting screws. I needed cobalt drills anyway. Even if I tap the holes I will want the correct size drill.
 
With luck that will work. Stainless fasteners aren't as robust carbon steel. Hard to believe the steel of the trailer is that much harder than stainless fasteners but it is possible!
 
With luck that will work. Stainless fasteners aren't as robust carbon steel. Hard to believe the steel of the trailer is that much harder than stainless fasteners but it is possible!

Well, I think mostly I drilled too-small holes in my test piece (which is probably a thicker gauge steel). The required #1 drill is 0.228" which is about 14.6/64ths of an inch. I tried a 7/32" and I got one bolt to start cutting threads then it twisted off. With the next size up bit, 15/64", it went in but ate up its threads so the bolt spins in the hole. The key, I am sure, is getting the right size hole to start, even if I am hand-tapping it. I have done this before with a 7/32 but in aluminum, but this mild steel is not nearly as agreeable.

Since there are so many of these, I didn't want to have to hand tap every one. The 1/4" will need 24 holes which is not so bad but I need 64 of the #10-24 holes. If I have to hand tap the 1/4-20s then that's no huge deal. If the #10s won't self-tap I'll just knock the holes up a size with a unibit and use nuts and lock washers. It's just a big pain to hold inside that C-channel from underneath the trailer.

I am tempted to just use pop rivets to attach the decking. That'd be a whole lot faster but a lot less serviceable.
 
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Caution: wet paint

1619011340886.png


That "Majic" paint from TSC really does take a while to dry. I didn't spring for the $15 activator/hardener which would have sped things up.

I have a hauling project coming on Saturday, so I have just three days to get this thing back together. My cobalt drill bit set came in last night so I can do the #10 holes. Looking at the break-apart hinges for the sides, I think it's gonna be pop rivets definitely.
 
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