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Broken header bolt

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Trying to remove stock headers and a bolt broke off in the head of a 07 bandit 1250.
Can this be fixed? One other bolt won't budge so I left it. I'm stuck with this bike like this for now.
First bandit and I want to get rid of it. Any advice would be great thanks.
 
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You could try soaking the one that won't come out with PB Blaster if you can get behind the flange where the bolt goes into the head. Try not to get the PBB on other parts to avoid possible staining. Let it soak in for several hours and spray it again every couple of hours. You may be able to get it out with an impact afterward. The one that's broke off will probably have to be drilled out and, if you haven't done it before, seek someone with experience. You probably don't want to hear this, but it would be much easier with the head off.
 
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You could try soaking the one that won't come out with PB Blaster if you can get behind the flange where the bolt goes into the head. Try not to get the PBB on other parts to avoid possible staining. Let it soak in for several hours and spray it again every couple of hours. You may be able to get it out with an impact afterward. The one that's broke off will probably have to be drilled out and, if you haven't done it before, seek someone with experience. You probably don't want to hear this, but it would be much easier with the head off.
Thanks I'm gonna soak them but will load the bike up to take take to a mechanic before I break the other bolt also.
 
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Wish you luck, someone can get them out. Wonder if running the motor to get it hot would have helped? Probably not
 

TWTim

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Thanks I'm gonna soak them but will load the bike up to take take to a mechanic before I break the other bolt also.

Old header bolts are just about the worst when it comes to seizing. It'll need to be drilled and maybe rethreaded, and that sometimes means pulling the head. Look at the bright side though –– this might be a great excuse to call Dale and order a big-bore kit for it. :D

http://holeshot.com/suzuki/bandit/600-1200
 
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Sometimes when a bolt is tight getting off, I will soak with penetrating oil then put pressure to tighten first, the try to loosen. Then work it back and forth to get the bolt out.
I,m not telling anyone else to this but I use Never Seize on a lot of bolts and my spark plugs that go into the aluminum head. Just a dab and It has worked well for me.
 
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Thanks everyone for the help. I'm gonna bring it to a mechanic. I was trying to install the headers I bought from Dale Walker. I was looking the throttle bodies over and I don't think I can do the blade removal. Not sure I far I can get I have fuel controller also
 

TNC

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I've seen this done many times with a welder where the end of the broken stud is built up to where you can grab the built up weld or weld a nut to the buildup. It sounds scary, but unless the welder is an idiot with a large stick welder, it works like magic. The type of welder used is one of those small wire jobs that you can be precise with...I'm not knowledgeable on the tig, mig, etc. types by detail. And while it sounds odd to weld on a broken steel stud in an aluminum head, that is exactly the scenario that works the best. The two diverse metals in the weld heat cycle tend to actually help loosen the stud or bolt. And while it sounds scary to do this on aluminum, it is quite apparent that the head is a lot tougher than most think. If you think about it, there is combustion going on inside this head normally. Now...any idiot can use the best welder with the best intent and damage the head, but the many times I've seen this done on motorcycle and automotive heads...most of them aluminum...a good welder who knows his stuff doesn't even leave a mark on the head other than the soot from the burn which wipes off with a rag. I'd check around and talk to some good welders and/or mechanics who've used this method. Unfortunately if the space where the broken stud resides is so tight that the wire weld head cannot reach, then removal might be necessary.
 
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I've seen this done many times with a welder where the end of the broken stud is built up to where you can grab the built up weld or weld a nut to the buildup. It sounds scary, but unless the welder is an idiot with a large stick welder, it works like magic. The type of welder used is one of those small wire jobs that you can be precise with...I'm not knowledgeable on the tig, mig, etc. types by detail. And while it sounds odd to weld on a broken steel stud in an aluminum head, that is exactly the scenario that works the best. The two diverse metals in the weld heat cycle tend to actually help loosen the stud or bolt. And while it sounds scary to do this on aluminum, it is quite apparent that the head is a lot tougher than most think. If you think about it, there is combustion going on inside this head normally. Now...any idiot can use the best welder with the best intent and damage the head, but the many times I've seen this done on motorcycle and automotive heads...most of them aluminum...a good welder who knows his stuff doesn't even leave a mark on the head other than the soot from the burn which wipes off with a rag. I'd check around and talk to some good welders and/or mechanics who've used this method. Unfortunately if the space where the broken stud resides is so tight that the wire weld head cannot reach, then removal might be necessary.
Hey thanks for the reply. The mechanic is good and the bolt isn't broke off flush it sticks out about 1/4"
I'm just bummed I wanted to try to complete this on my own but once again I have to ask for help, makes me feel so freaking useless.
Not sure how much more I will do with bike because this set back has really killed my drive. Sad but little things like this keep me awake at night and depress me. I want to thank everyone again for the replies
 
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I've seen this done many times with a welder where the end of the broken stud is built up to where you can grab the built up weld or weld a nut to the buildup. It sounds scary, but unless the welder is an idiot with a large stick welder, it works like magic. The type of welder used is one of those small wire jobs that you can be precise with...I'm not knowledgeable on the tig, mig, etc. types by detail. And while it sounds odd to weld on a broken steel stud in an aluminum head, that is exactly the scenario that works the best. The two diverse metals in the weld heat cycle tend to actually help loosen the stud or bolt. And while it sounds scary to do this on aluminum, it is quite apparent that the head is a lot tougher than most think. If you think about it, there is combustion going on inside this head normally. Now...any idiot can use the best welder with the best intent and damage the head, but the many times I've seen this done on motorcycle and automotive heads...most of them aluminum...a good welder who knows his stuff doesn't even leave a mark on the head other than the soot from the burn which wipes off with a rag. I'd check around and talk to some good welders and/or mechanics who've used this method. Unfortunately if the space where the broken stud resides is so tight that the wire weld head cannot reach, then removal might be necessary.
I did this once for a friend who broke off an aluminum footpeg with a steel bolt stuck in the end. I covered the peg with aluminum foil to keep the spatter away from it, wire feed welded a bolt onto the part sticking out, and used a wrench to turn out the broken bolt. It wasn’t seized though; just too short to get anything on it to unscrew it out.
 
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I did this once for a friend who broke off an aluminum footpeg with a steel bolt stuck in the end. I covered the peg with aluminum foil to keep the spatter away from it, wire feed welded a bolt onto the part sticking out, and used a wrench to turn out the broken bolt. It wasn’t seized though; just too short to get anything on it to unscrew it out.
The mechanic said he will weld something on it to try and remove it. I just havet load the bike in my truck which I can't do alone so it will be a few days before I can get the bike to the mechanics shop.
 

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The mechanic said he will weld something on it to try and remove it. I just havet load the bike in my truck which I can't do alone so it will be a few days before I can get the bike to the mechanics shop.
Honestly if that is his response, find a different helper/shop.
This is a common issue and a known solution by those that will get it right.

It is not "weld something to it"
If the broken stud is flush then you weld a plain steel washer to the stud, and a plain steel nut to the washer, then remove with the nut.
If it is as you described, the broken stud protrudes above the head, you weld a plain steel nut to the stud and remove.

It literally took me longer to type that then it would make the extraction
 
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Heat. I use Liquid Wrench, it's just like PB Blaster but older. More heat. Maybe a vice grip if you can get a bite. If not, one of those reverse thread bolt removing kits ($30?) and get a good one.

Edit: Take it to Erik.
 
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Thanks guys sorry for the delay we have been dealing with some storms here in southern louisiana. I dropped the bike off last Saturday and the mechanic is still working on it. Hopefully he will be done with it this Saturday. I will let you guys know how it goes.
 
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Got a update there were 2 stuck bolts, mechanic said one was a real pain to get out and the other still not out. He has to drill it. Told me he worked most of the day on it which sucks because it's 95 bucks a hr labor, this is gonna be expensive fix.
 
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Just heard from mechanic he ruined 3 drill bits and can't get the bolt out. He has to order special bits which are over 100 bucks. He will have the bike another week. I can't keep this up I won't be able to afford it. I'm screwed at this point.
 
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Sorry for all your problems. I've got no Bandit experience but I can't understand how this is so difficult unless it was JB Welded. I'd sure start talking total $$$ with him now. Start looking for a replacement head and use that amount in the price negotiation. Any good mechanic ought to always keep that in mind for the customer.
 
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Thanks for the reply. I spoke with the mechanic and it looks like it's gonna be atleast 400 bucks at this point. I needed to replace the fork seals and brakes but can't now. The fork seal has leaked so bad it's all over the disk and pads, the bike stops horribly and it might be the fluid on the pads. Anyway it will just sit I guess till I can afford to fix them. Sucks I just bought the bike and got to ride it once with a couple trips around my neighborhood. Bummed to say the least.
 
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Just a update guys I have the bike back from mechanic. He had to put a helicoil in and cleaned out the rest of the bolt holes. Thanks to everyone who replied now I'm going to try to finish working on the bike. Still have alot to do, remove secondary blades and install exhaust and fuel controller still.
 
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Another update, removed the secondary blades and reinstalled the throttle bodies. Installed the fuel controller and exhaust. I have to install the radiator and add coolant and bleed system. I have read about the fan shroud being loud. Gonna look up some more info on this. Sorry been awhile but health issues keeping me down.
 

DFW_Warrior

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Reading through this has me thinking about what kind of trooper you have been through all this. It will get better, and then once it is all fixed up it will be awesome to get it out and on the road. :)
 
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Thanks for the kind words sir. Yeah I'm trying to keep my spirits up. Been alot going on with doctors and stuff still have more test to do. The bike has been slow to come together and I'm no mechanic so I'm learning as I go. Never done anything like this before so it's all new to me.

I'm so excited to finish it up and I hope I notice a little more performance. It's really close to finish so hope to able to take it for a ride soon. I have a new chain and sprockets to install but don'thave the tools, guy i know was supposed to give me a hand but haven't heard from him. I need to get it finished doctors want me to start on oxygen so not sure I will be able to ride.

Hate to have to sell my bike before I even get a chance to take her out for a spin. Will keep you guys posted
 

DFW_Warrior

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Learning how you go is how most of us got to where we are now. Heck, I've been breaking things on motorcycles all in the name of learning since I was 5 years old. By now I've broken so many things that I've kind of figured out how to do most of the simple stuff. Electronics though, I bow out of messing with those as there are far more gifted people out there than understand it better than I do. :)

You'll get it up and running, and be out enjoying it soon enough I hope.
 
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