• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

Carb issues, 82 Suzuki GS650

Joined
May 1, 2020
Messages
15
Reaction score
2
Location
Vermont
Hello all. Working on my 82 Suzuki GS 650 I took off, took apart, and cleaned the carbs,..replaced many o rings, set the float height, and re-installed. The bike will run, but #4 cyl will not fire. It has good compression, and a good hot spark, that leaves fuel. Any suggestions on where to start?. I'm a retired HVAC tech, but a novice on carbs! Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Sounds like that carb is still clogged up somewhere. If the cylinder is firing only at certain revs, its likely a jet. If the cylinder isn't firing at all, it could be a problem with the diaphragm or blockage in the fuel feed. Is the slide moving with the other carbs? In any case, if you're absolutely certain you have spark and air, the carbs need to come off again. Good luck. I'm in the middle of bringing an '80 GS1000 back to life and just got parts in yesterday, so my carb journey is similarly about to begin.
 
Sounds like that carb is still clogged up somewhere. If the cylinder is firing only at certain revs, its likely a jet. If the cylinder isn't firing at all, it could be a problem with the diaphragm or blockage in the fuel feed. Is the slide moving with the other carbs? In any case, if you're absolutely certain you have spark and air, the carbs need to come off again. Good luck. I'm in the middle of bringing an '80 GS1000 back to life and just got parts in yesterday, so my carb journey is similarly about to begin.
Thanks. I'm getting really good at removing these carbs! I did notice that one of the slides was not acting like the other three. Oh well, I'll rip them out again, but first I'll remove the bowl plug to see if there is gas in there.
 
Sounds like that carb is still clogged up somewhere. If the cylinder is firing only at certain revs, its likely a jet. If the cylinder isn't firing at all, it could be a problem with the diaphragm or blockage in the fuel feed. Is the slide moving with the other carbs? In any case, if you're absolutely certain you have spark and air, the carbs need to come off again. Good luck. I'm in the middle of bringing an '80 GS1000 back to life and just got parts in yesterday, so my carb journey is similarly about to begin.
Just want to tell you about a great resource. BikeCliff's website.......http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/ enjoy
 
Yep. BikeCliff is an offshoot of www.thegsresources.com

He has a ton of good info he's keeping alive.

For your carbs, make sure the vacuum diaphragm doesn't have a crack or tear in it anywhere. Also, did you drill out the caps on idle mix screws and replace that impossibly small O-ring in there?
 
Yep. BikeCliff is an offshoot of www.thegsresources.com

He has a ton of good info he's keeping alive.

For your carbs, make sure the vacuum diaphragm doesn't have a crack or tear in it anywhere. Also, did you drill out the caps on idle mix screws and replace that impossibly small O-ring in there?

I did not do that because I didn't have that information, dammit. I did check the diaphrams by holding them up to a strong light, and they looked OK. But I did find a wiring diagram for the ignition coils. I attached the plug wires where they belong, and it is firing on all 4's! But I can only rev it up when the choke is on. So I guess that is the next problem. The filter box does not have any gasket. I'll make one and try again. About those mixture screws,....... do you think it could be fowled up in there? I have the small o rings.
 
If you have the tiny O-rings that's awesome! Those idle screws adjust how much air bleeds in during idle, but if they are leaking (as I bet yours are) they will throw off the A/F mix everywhere. Those O-rings get eaten up if you dip the carbs. They are also just old and most likely just worn and cracked already. Those air screws were capped at the factory to prevent you from messing up the emissions which were carefully set and measured at the factory. lol Be extra careful when drilling the caps, then be extra, EXTRA careful to screw them in and count the turns until they bottom out. you need to know how many turns, BUT the tips are fragile and can break off if you bottom them out too hard. Just barely turn them until they hit bottom.

This would explain why it only rev's with the choke on. You have an air leak, and the choke is contributing more fuel to the mix.


So the thing to work through is making absolutely sure you have no air leaks from the airbox lid to the airbox-to-carb boots, the carbs themselves, and most importantly the carb-to-engine boots. Those get cracked over time and leak air. I replaced mine with radiator hose which worked really well, but you'r may have the kind that bolt to the engine. Mine is a hose clamp on the engine side as well. Having a completely sealed intake system is the key to a good running bike.
 
If you have the tiny O-rings that's awesome! Those idle screws adjust how much air bleeds in during idle, but if they are leaking (as I bet yours are) they will throw off the A/F mix everywhere. Those O-rings get eaten up if you dip the carbs. They are also just old and most likely just worn and cracked already. Those air screws were capped at the factory to prevent you from messing up the emissions which were carefully set and measured at the factory. lol Be extra careful when drilling the caps, then be extra, EXTRA careful to screw them in and count the turns until they bottom out. you need to know how many turns, BUT the tips are fragile and can break off if you bottom them out too hard. Just barely turn them until they hit bottom.

This would explain why it only rev's with the choke on. You have an air leak, and the choke is contributing more fuel to the mix.


So the thing to work through is making absolutely sure you have no air leaks from the airbox lid to the airbox-to-carb boots, the carbs themselves, and most importantly the carb-to-engine boots. Those get cracked over time and leak air. I replaced mine with radiator hose which worked really well, but you'r may have the kind that bolt to the engine. Mine is a hose clamp on the engine side as well. Having a completely sealed intake system is the key to a good running bike.
Thanks for the tips. I did replace the o rings that seal the boots to the head, you're right, they were bad. I will pull the carbs again,....4th time, and get to those o rings.
 
OOPS, I was mistaken. I do not have the tiny o rings. Guess I'll have to order them.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I got her running today. I replaced ALL the o rings. She fires up in a half second og hitting the button. Not idling quite right, but it's a good sign!
 
Back
Top