Chain theory

[veriest1]

I think there is something to be said for a cooler running chain and sprocket set. With the bar oil or the oilier, it is pretty much always wet so that can really help in keeping the heat down. For most of us that use some form of dry lube or something else similar I'd make the case that we are just doing it to make ourselves feel good about the whole process.

That's my theory and why my CB has an oiler on it. But I use leftover oil, partial bottles, or whatever I can scrounge up since it's applied easily and frequently. Time will tell....

 

[swoody126]

this issue used to raise it's ugly head from tyme to tyme when i was still riding

one component many fail to understand is how to properly ADJUST a chain

a huge number of folks experience premature bearing and seal issues along w/ short life of their chains due to improper chain tension

the centers of the counter shaft, the swing arm pivot bolt and axle MUST be lined up in a straight line to measure proper ADJUSTMENT for each individual skoot

this process involves either removing the rear shock(s) or or using a ratchet strap to raise the rear axle to line them up(note string)

the rear tire needs to be raised to do this

once alignment is achieved the axle needs to be adjusted to where the chain is just snug not taught and the chain actually lines up on the front and rear sprockets

getting down on your knees and sighting fwd on the top of the chain is the 1st step

once it appears straight lay a straight edge on it or pull a string to make sure

now tighten/torque your axle nut to specs

you have just adjusted YOUR chain

release the strap/replace the suspension to the fully extended/relaxed state and take the jack stands/box from under the skoot

lean the skoot onto the side stand or center stand whichever is appropriate for YOUR skoot

now neasure the upward deflection in the center of the bottom of the chain from totally relaxed to snug

you have just determined how much slack in the relaxed chain equals properly adjusted

adjusting YOUR chain can now be done w/o going thru all this monkey motion ... just by checking the slack

the only force on a properly adjusted chain is the torque applied by the engine not the leverage or jerking applied due to improper adjustment a/o swing arm stretching

this process must be done every time a drive line component(chain a/o sprocket) gets changed

the WEE uses(or at least mine did) an endless chain and proper/special tools are required to replace it

now back to your lube arguement which i shant enter into at this time

BON CHANCE

sw

 

[Cagiva 549]

At some point every bike I’ve had the shock will be pulled out , I will always put the wheel and axle back in just to check and be sure my tension is good then measure the chain slack with the rear wheel off the ground so I have a good reference point to work with .

 

[Ouroboros]

Run it on the loose side and lube it. If it looks loose to you its probaly just right.

 

[kenray]

I save a pint or so of oil whenever I change oil in my bikes and add some 90w gear oil to it. I use a paint brush to apply the oil to my chain while I spin the wheel. Just make sure you put some newspapers under the bike while excess oil leaks off the chain. I use to buy chain lubricants but for me this works better and is cheaper and the old KLR seems happy with it. ken in katy

 

[Tharunner]

Iv always changed the sprockets with the new chain but honestly never paid any attention to how long anything lasts or when it was changed.
My bike is for enjoyment and to a degree it does not matter what it costs.
A friend was saying he put a new chain made by BMW on his Africa twin. They claim its a life time chain???? I dont know how that could be and what about the sprockets?? Anyway the bigest advantage to a chain and sprocket system is the 65# weight savings. Off road and dirt road that is a significant advantage over shaft drive.

Tim
Excellent point!
I have around 11,000 on my chain and sprockets. Starting to show some wearing and a few kinks I'm not able to clean or work out. So before I do November's big trip I'm replacing both sprockets along with chain. Really it's not that much. $ 175 ish?? Also I'm giving her a new set of tread! But I ride her pretty often and hard!

 

[tshelfer]

I tend to get 20-22K out of a chain. I could get more, but it's an area - like tires - where I prefer to be on the conservative side of replacement. I do both sprockets at the same time - or more to the point, somebody I pay does the sprockets. Hey, it's just money.

I do lub my chain about every 1000 miles, usually with whatever O'Reilly's or Autozone is selling. And while I don't take my chain off & boil it or whatever, I do spin the chain through a clean shop rag to wipe the excess gunk off. If anything, though, I'd chalk longevity of my chains up to the fact that I'm pretty gentle to my bike in general - I habitually short-shift, and I'm easy on the clutch. Those factors will help extend a chain's life.

But as far as cost? As "other Tim" pointed out, it really isn't about cost. I did the math years ago and figured out that given the general maintenance cost of motorcycles, I'd probably be better off fiscally by buying a used Corolla as a 2nd vehicle. I ride because it's fun like nothing else.

 

[misterk]

On my 2016 Africa twin I had to adjust the chain at around 10k miles. By 18-20k miles I replaced chain and sprockets.

my 2020 Africa Twin has a much shorter swing arm (I believe they took 4 inches off the length). At 14k miles, no adjustment needed.

I am wondering since the chain is 8” shorter it causes less stretch?

I have always used a tutoro chain oiler, which i

 

[RTL]

I have tried RK, DID, Regina and EK brand chains. Have not found any one to be much better than the other. 12-18K miles is about all I get out of any of them. All have been O-ring or X-ring chains that I try to lube after longer rides. Grew fond of the Dupont semi-dry lube spray that I used to get at Lowes or Home Depot but I can't find it anymore. Always change chain and sprockets.

 

[Plane Dr]

No chains any more. I specifically went shaftie again.

Alignment is critical, the adjusters may match but they don't mean it's good, just close. I tended to lube mine whenever needed mainly after a wash or a good mud bath. Obviously the DRZ got it more than the Z1000. I did actually buy an alignment tool since it was just a helpful aid.

Also various bikes have different wear rates. The DRZ was a solid 2 front to a rear. The Z1000 didn't seem to matter usually 1 to 1. Part of that is the proportion of the front to rear size. It has a huge impact on the life expectancy of the chain and sprockets.

 

[Scorch]

My chain theory just got an update.

So, I watched about 100 videos, many saying contrasting things. This guy is a tech for DID and he shows replacing the chain without replacing sprockets... while other experts such as this Motorcyclist.com tech claim you must replace it all at once. He evens says this while working for RevZilla (this guy gets around ).

So, I went ahead and replaced the whole set. The last 800 miles my chain has made loud and ominous crunching sounds whenever I took off from a stop. I could not pull the chain off of the sprocket very much, but it was at the end of the swingarm adjuster limits. The bike has 14,000 miles total and is garage kept, 3 years old, and almost never ridden in the rain (maybe about 50 miles total). I have never lubricated thein once and I keep it adjusted at the specified limit using a tape measure.

When I got the old chain off, it was as stiff as a surfboard, so it was definitely no good; kinking and binding galore. Honestly, both sprockets were fine. I don't think there was enough wear to cause a new chain to fail in a significantly shorter period of time than replacing the chain with new sprockets. But since I was into the job, I replaced them both.

Now, just last night I came across this video and the guy asked a scientist named Dr. Mario Craft with the Dr O. K. Wack factory in Germany (helluva name, right?) the same questions that many of us have: Why lube a chain if the grease is sealed behind the O rings? Does it do anything? Who cares if the chain is rusty, how does that affect the longevity? Now, this guy is a doctor with a white lab coat and German accent, so he must know what he's talking about, right?

So, I am guessing the O rings simply dried out over time and that's why the chain went bad at 14,000 miles. As I said, I'm guessing, not claiming to know. But I am going to lube this chain every 500-800 miles and it it develops any buildup, gently clean it with kerosene. I'll rub a talisman and hope the lubing of the chain keeps those O rings fit and supple and let me get 30,000 out of this chain.

 

[jkelley82]

Looks like the front sprocket was worn pretty good to me. I would have changed it as well.

 

[RTL]

I believe lubing the outside of the chain with an o-ring safe lube is more about keeping the o-rings soft and pliable so the can do their job than providing any lubricant for the chain and sprockets interface. I do know that the most reliable chain drive system is an enclosed oil bath setup. We have some chain drives where I work like that and they last a very long time. I think Yamaha had a v-twin road bike years ago with an enclosed chain drive. Guess it didn’t sell well?

 

[Tim Scholz]

I believe lubing the outside of the chain with an o-ring safe lube is more about keeping the o-rings soft and pliable so the can do their job than providing any lubricant for the chain and sprockets interface. I do know that the most reliable chain drive system is an enclosed oil bath setup. We have some chain drives where I work like that and they last a very long time. I think Yamaha had a v-twin road bike years ago with an enclosed chain drive. Guess it didn’t sell well?

My dad had a GL 175 honda designed for agg or farm use. It had a totally enclosed chain and rubber plug where you added oil. He was excited about the set up at first but it was difficult to adjust the chain and when water got in from a deep water crossing it could not get out. Eventually he took the enclosure off and discarded it.

 

[Ben Eberle]

If you replace the chain early enough, your sprockets will last a lot longer. When I see the "red dust of death" on my chain links, I replace it, also if it starts to need frequent chain adjustments. Trying to milk a few thousand extra miles out of a chain by constantly adjusting it is what ruins sprockets. The stretched chain no longer matches the sprocket pitch. When the chain starts to need weekly or monthly chain tension adjustment, the sealed-in lube is gone, and you need to accept the fact that its useful life is over. Also, some bargain brands of chains are out of spec when brand new. Spend the money for a premium chain, even if you own a small bike like mine and you won't regret it.
The sprockets barely wear, until the chain starts to "stretch" out of spec.