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COPPER CANYON '13 - THE FROG TOUR

Someday!!!

It has been awhile since the last post about this wonderful trip. I'm gonna try finishing it. We
We were in Urique and the following day we were heading out of the canyons back toward Creel. There was a stop JT wanted to do to see this expatriate's place. I can not remember the name of the town or the guy. That's what happens when you take a long brake between postings.
We headed up the road out of town and the climb was fast and easy. The road was nicely maintained which meant extra precautions had to be taken. We arrived at the Mirador de Urique where we stopped to enjoy the marvelous views.

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So we arrived at this town which I can not remember the name and Hugo had to make some repairs. Again, the locals did not disappointed us. Hugo found a hardware store where he bought some nuts and bolts and the lady owner told him that he could use the shop down on the back to do his repairs at no charge.
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While he was doing repairs, the rest went out to explore the town and find a place to sleep. We found two great places, one for RG and the other for the rest. I think we found the jackpot. Hotel Mision in Cerocahui. Finally I remember the name.

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Since it was the slow season, we had some great rates and we were considering staying another day just to enjoy the amenities. This hotel has its own vineyards and make its won wine. However, we decided to head out the next day. In the morning, we had breakfast at a restaurant by the town square.

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From here was back to Creel where we stopped in Divisadero to check out the views and the local vendors.
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Once we got to Creel, we stopped at a gas station and saw this mural on a wall. It describes our complete tour of all the canyons.
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Surely brings back some good memories...

Cerocahui. Seems like this little community reflects a mix of traditional and progressive elements of Chihuahua in general. The region contrasts contemporary Mexico - racing toward a prosperous future with industry and agriculture - to a rural population largely holding fast in honoring cultural history and family pride.


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We rolled into town earlier than our usual hour and immediately started making repairs to motorcycles. Most everyone had at least some little tweak that needed to be twuk. The folks helping Hugo were kind enough to let me borrow the biggest honkin vice grips I've ever held to straighten out a kink. Trail was tough on equipment. And you know....KLR's just crave affection...and Locktight.

This is where our trails briefly diverge. The crew found a really nice motel with poolside bartender and it's own vineyard. The lobby was opulent and the rooms looked nice. You know you've found the exclusive side of town when walls carry electrified barbed wire around the perimeter.


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I rode over to a little store just on the square that also had a few rooms for rent out back. It was run by Mamacita and her daughter, Karla. After checking out the rooms, I asked if they could cook up a bite to eat for me. Those two acted like they were delighted to feed this filthy moto dude...after he'd knocked off a few layers of trail dust and cleaned up a bit, that is. I must have been their sole boarder that day cause they scurried around like getting me fed was their only goal. Later, Karla came to my room to say that supper was ready. I went up to their kitchen, sat down at their table and enjoyed a feast.

Folks, these were THE best danged tacos I have had in this bizarre lifetime - how there is actually a picture to show beforehand is still a mystery.


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They were pounding away at me with questions about riding motorcycles through the mountains and how many banditos had I seen along the way. And, could I possibly eat just one more taco. Pretty soon it felt like these folks had taken me on as a project and part of the family. Very cool experience.

These are Karla's little girls. They romped around like two little kittens the entire time I was there. They had the run of Grandma's store, house, yard, everything - and were in and out and under and over and through it all.

Cute as... well, here they are on top of the freezer...in the window...wrapped up in the curtains. These two were simply beautiful works of the Almighty's hands. Nuff said.


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After supper, I went to visit the crew while they splashed around the pool and gave the bartender a solid workout. Just across the street was this old Mission. Something was getting started so I stuck around. No doubt I could use some church time and besides, it was starting to rain.


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Seems they were having some kind of - what we might call - graduation of a Catechism class. It must have involved most of the young people in that community. Lots of young folks down front with the priest. All of them dressed in brilliant formal white from head to toe. The young men wearing traditional heavy white sleeved shirts and white trousers along with a red sash tied midsection. The young girls looked like a field of white poppy flowers in their long flowing dresses.


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I noticed an older Indian (indigio - indiginous) lady setting on a pew alone. I asked if I could join her since the rest of the church was filled and things were about to kick-off. She looked surprised at first, then smiled and invited me to sit down in the same manner as all folks have in churches near and far. I later learned that the indigios are considered a very separate class of folks in Chihuahua. They may or may not speak Spanish...by choice.


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About those pews... designed and built in the late 1700's to ensure that NOBODY falls asleep in church....EVER. Pure wood polished to a bright sheen by untold generations of parishioners butts. Their hard straight backs carefully angled forward just so slightly...and without a hint of padding. I've heard this is done to help remind congregants about the suffering of saints. Trust me here...It works!

Afterwards, I walked down to the gazebo in the old square. Some young folks were avoiding the showers while working on a school project related to dinosaurs. Seems they were building a diorama from a computer lesson. The contemporary contrast.


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After a nights rest and good breakfast it was time to head back toward civilization. You know how these times go...not much to speak of...just burning for the border.


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Izz had some excitement with the Transalp. It suddenly started popping like a two cylinder John Deere and quickly got worse. And, we were a looonnnggg way from anywhere. This is one of those instances when the mind starts racing through all sorts of contingencies about recovery options or abandonment. ( the bike...not Izz )


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He had a pretty good idea of where the problem was after diving for the ditch and tearing into the engine. Doggone air filter is small as that of a KLR and this one was choked down with dust as in - that's all folks. Amazing how much dirt came out of that little filter. Back on the road soon enough.

Again, our trails diverged as the main group voted to beat it across the river and overnight back in the USA. JT and I decided to explore the nightlife of OJ and spend one more evening enjoying the charms of old Mexico.

Ojinaga is a community of past and present. Passing through the main drag toward the bridge, a person could decide that it's just another border town with the usual trappings. A little further west on the hill though, is the old section of town. We like that part.

Our home for the evening..and a pretty decent place.


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We spent some time just walking around town. OK...truthfully we were searching for the best deal on some high-end cactus juice. Saw a few curiosities along the way. Couldn't find the inspection sticker on this one...


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I believe Mexico is the land of perpetual elections. At any given moment, somebody seems to be running for office all over the country. Not sure if I could vote for Cesar, here.


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Finally found some iguanas in a local pet store...no eggs for Mudd Missle, though.


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Following my rather prominent nose, I staggered into this bakery off a side street. Aromas from Heaven.... Couple of guys tending this old brick oven cranking out all sorts of goodies. You know how colorful traditional Mexican pan is. They had it racked up all around the place in piles. Were do you even start? It just don't get much better....


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Here's their secret ingredient out back:


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Left loaded down with a sacks full of breakfast and dinner and snacks and...


For supper we went down to a restaurant called Dos Comals. Good doggone eats and cold, cold beer.


Next morning it was time.


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Ahhh...normalcy descends like a dark impending cloak to snuff out the last spark of life. It had been cheated, delayed and avoided to the last possible moment but - there it is.

Great trip. My impression of the state of Chihuahua and the areas in the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains is way different than that of areas in the SM Orientals around Galeana. On balance, I much prefer the latter. Shadow and light...neither any greater or less than the other but necessarily different.

Good food, great riding and some of the best riding mates ever to put up with my hapless shenanigans. A time well spent.
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Really Cool Trip. I'd prefer more gnarly single track but those days are dwindling fast...Thanks for sharing. Awesome!
 
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