DL650 wierd idle problem

[tshelfer]

Hey Strom techies - I had a strange problem with my DL650 while on the road a couple of days ago. We'd been riding for about 100 miles. Bike was running fine, except I did notice the idle felt a little wobbly at a couple of small-town stoplights. Then, as we pulled into the next little town and I came to a stop, the bike just died. I was able to restart by holding the starter button for several seconds and giving it some gas, but the bike immediately died again. With some trouble I restarted again and the motor seemed to rev just fine, but died instantly when I released the throttle. We repeated this several times. During all of this, there was a strong smell of gas.

Redpill & I kicked the tires for a few minutes & pondered what was going on. After about 10 minutes of just sitting there, I hit it again, & it started instantly & idled fine. We headed cautiously back onto the road & had absolutely no more problems over several hundred miles of hard driving. The bike ran perfectly for nearly 800 miles of driving, with the exception of that weird incident near the beginning of our trip.

The problem was reminiscent of a flooded carburetor in the olden days, but how does one flood a fuel-injected bike at 70mph?

Does this scenario sound familiar to anybody?

 

[Fiddyone]

Suzuki says you must synch your throttle bodies like you do carbs. Dont know if thats the issue but it sounds like it could be.

 

[focus frenzy]

the fuel injectors work very much like the float seats in carbs, something gets in them and they will flow gas when they are not suspose to.
normaly when this happens you have to replace the injector/s but sometimes they clear up on their own.

a good injection cleaner would be good.

 

[VRoss]

I would say a TPS. You need to put it in diagnostics mode and pull the codes,.

 

[tshelfer]

Hi, VRoss. Pardon my ignorance, but does TPS stand for throttle position sensor?

 

[VRoss]

Yes, this was the only problem my Wee ever experienced. When you put it in diagnostics mode, if there are no codes, then you can still see if your TPS adjustment is off by the indicator on the panel. That's how I tracked down mine, I rode with the bike in diagnostics mode.

For the diagnostics mode, you can buy a fancy switch that the dealer uses and mount it under the seat or you can use a paperclip ( I did ). Also TPS adjustment requires the use of a security bit. HF has them.

 

[Gilk51]

Hi, VRoss. Pardon my ignorance, but does TPS stand for throttle position sensor?

For the diagnostics mode, you can buy a fancy switch that the dealer uses and mount it under the seat or you can use a paperclip ( I did ). Also TPS adjustment requires the use of a security bit. HF has them.

Ihave the factory diag mode switch (it was a pricy $13) and also a set of security bits for a mechanical screwdriver if you want to borrow them.

Also, watch for similar issues as time goes on. A year ago, I noticed that my Wii would stumble when I really accelerated hard. Also ran rough at highway speeds. Turns out it was a fuel pupmp issue & went away when I replaced it with a GSXR pump (bike is much faster now )

I suspect your problem was some foreign matter in the gas that eventually blew through. Might be worth pulling the airbox and looking at your air filter...

 

[tshelfer]

Actually, Chuck, the air filter did cross my mind. I'll be looking at that about Monday. Certainly the easiest & cheapest fix.

 

[DaveC]

dead thread necromancer! I am having TPS issues and was wondering if anyone has had any experience, good or bad, cleaning them. Being a former KLR owner ( how cheap are they, they a KLR owner cheap!) I was not wanting to drop $80 plus on a electrical part that may just be dirty.

 

[DaveC]

well, I pulled the TPS. Drilled two holes in the out side ( inside being the throttle body side) using a 1/8 and my drill press. one hole near the M in "made" and the other near the "a" in Japan , second "a". Just enough to poke through the plastic. Sprayed some contact cleaner in( I am out of brake cleaner) . When I started I could not get it to sequence, the ohm meter would jump and I had trouble getting a linear response. I got it act right and remounted the TPS. BTW you can do this without removing the tank and airbox, your going to need a flex extension or a wobble extension. Move the lower radiator hose with a long flat tool and you well be able to see the screws. Anyway I have factory white mark and getting it set to 0 was easy. Results, well when its cool and after extended throttle up (3 to 4G) it well return to idle after it sits and gets heated the high idle returns and is not as hard to reduce by blipping the throttle. so I think if I had used brake cleaner would my results been different, meh, I sprayed liberal amounts of contact cleaner, I could have worked it more when it was wet and maybe it would have cleaned it a bit better. so it was somewhat successful, I have tape over the holes so I well try some more cleaner. I have a TPS inbound from Partszilla.