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DRZ experts inside

Stack height has been an issue several times for me when a customer supplied non OEM clutch disks.
The OEM hold 60 HP with no drama

I have a 2003 that has original disks taken out for a year and put back in when the auto clutch broke.

I know riders that can burn a clutch up in a single season and others riding the same bike/ build/ terrain get a dozen years use
 
I have had bad luck trying to use Non-Suzuki stuff. I will go and see what I have a post up on here.
 
How about $160.00 shipped for the whole shebang, a complete clutch, factory Suzuki. Includes cover gasket, 6 springs, all 7 fiber plates, the second fiber plate, the 7 steel plates. Not bad, I think it was closer to $240.00 but I do not know.

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That’s a good deal @OldTLSDoug ...I’ll be doing my due diligence and inspecting the springs and plates to see what needs replacing. I was reading how sometimes the springs only need replacing if the plates are still within spec. I can pm you in a few days
 
Just so you know it is an all or nothing deal, don't want to piecemeal it. Let me know.
 
I will be going through my 2007 DRZ400S to hopefully sort out some issues. Previous owner did 3x3, full FMF, and jetting. The bike pops on deceleration.

Oil smells of fuel - I have ordered a carb rebuild kit as I suspect the float valve o-ring. OR the float height. I need to see which jets were used when I have the carb apart. I also plan to inspect the petcock. I did leave the fuel line disconnected over night and did not have any fuel leaking, but I have not checked the vacuum line.

Front brake rubbing - I loosened pinch bolts, axle, etc and realigned the front. I bled the front. The rubbing went away, but came back after engaging the brake lever. I think I need to inspect the pins and check the piston.

I would also like to perform some of the preventative loctite fixes described on Thumpertalk. Do any of you guys get together for a garage day?
 
There are some tech days periodically. I have done them here south of Ft. Worth, but not lately. If there is fuel in the gas my first guess would be the o ring. For setting the float, this thread @ Thumper Talk has some good info on that. I have always set float levels with the carb upside down, but that doesn't work on carbs with spring loaded plungers on their needles like this one has. I learned that the hard way. The pictures at the bottom of that thread are good info. The carb is pretty basic. Getting it in and out is a bit of a pain but not impossible.
 
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Oil smells of fuel - I have ordered a carb rebuild kit as I suspect the float valve o-ring.
It will be the seat O ring.
And the petcock may also need a rebuild.
Front brake rubbing - I loosened pinch bolts, axle, etc and realigned the front. I bled the front. The rubbing went away, but came back after engaging the brake lever. I think I need to inspect the pins and check the piston.
Sounds like sticking piston or not sliding on the pins
I would also like to perform some of the preventative loctite fixes described on Thumpertalk.
Please dont do that, Perform ALL of the preventative fixes.

I know a guy if you need any info on them.
 
I found some original AB “E cams” for sale. I have a few pics from the seller and wanted someone’s opinion on whether the pics help or hurt a possible purchase.
 

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I found some original AB “E cams” for sale. I have a few pics from the seller and wanted someone’s opinion on whether the pics help or hurt a possible purchase.
Ask for a pic of the cam lobe tallest point... your looking for wear and pitting. Ask if the decomp device is loose at the pivot point
 
Ask for a pic of the cam lobe tallest point... your looking for wear and pitting. Ask if the decomp device is loose at the pivot point
Will do! I’ll also post up his reply. My drz already has a bbk, fcr39, full yoshi, 3x3, and a k&n filter. Hoping the e cams give me that last extra bit of oomph while still keeping things on the “tame” side(3 layer base gasket)
 
Gentleman stated that the decompression device seemed fine to him...
 

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I found a coolant leak on the front of the motor after my last ride. It appears to be coming from the thermostat housing. The parts diagram does not show a gasket here. Any ideas what may have caused the leak?
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I found a coolant leak on the front of the motor after my last ride. It appears to be coming from the thermostat housing. The parts diagram does not show a gasket here. Any ideas what may have caused the leak?
View attachment 251561
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The gasket only comes with the thermostat itself it’s not available as a separate item.
A cheap way around that If your thermostat itself does not need to be replaced is to buy the gasket for a E model
E water neck gasket.jpg

Remove the rubber gasket throw away the metal ring restrictor, install the rubber gasket on your old thermostat and good to go.


SEAL
92093-S049

$5
 
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The gasket is integral to the thermostat itself it’s not available as a separate item.
A cheap way around that If your thermostat does not need to be replaced in itself.
is to buy the gasket/restrictor for a E model
remove the rubber part throw away the metal Ring
install the rubber part on your thermostat


SEAL
92093-S049

$5
Thank you for the info on the thermostat. I have ordered a replacement.
 
Thank you for the info on the thermostat. I have ordered a replacement.
Great.

Hopefully you ordered THERMOSTAT,WATER 49054-S005 as its the exact same part as the one that comes in a Suzuki tagged bag., to include the Suzuki part number tag UNDER the Kawasaki parts tag
 
Great.

Hopefully you ordered THERMOSTAT,WATER 49054-S005 as its the exact same part as the one that comes in a Suzuki tagged bag., to include the Suzuki part number tag UNDER the Kawasaki parts tag
I was able to change my order to the Kawasaki thermostat and saved some money. Thank you.

Will the radiator need to come off to replace the thermostat?
 
Will the radiator need to come off to replace the thermostat?
No, there is room to remove the T state cover and flex the hose out of the way. That said, Id likely remove the radiators, get them out in the open and good light, check for damage, flush well in addition to giving you more room to work on the head.
 
New/old thermostats. The gasket material was in bad condition. I took the radiators off as suggested which made everything easier to access. The tstat cover and head mating surfaces have baked gasket and corrosion that I am cleaning up before reassembly. I will be replacing the hoses as well.

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New/old thermostats. The gasket material was in bad condition. I took the radiators off as suggested which made everything easier to access. The tstat cover and head mating surfaces have baked gasket and corrosion that I am cleaning up before reassembly. I will be replacing the hoses as well.

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If you have a dremel tool, the stainless steel wire wheels work well to clean up the head and water neck. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES and know if you press too hard, use the wire wheel too long (service life) you will have fine bits of wire in your shirt hair and even face if you dont use a shield.........Yes, I get wire in my shirt and hair a lot....lol, just cant throw them things away when I should .
 
If you have a dremel tool, the stainless steel wire wheels work well to clean up the head and water neck. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES and know if you press too hard, use the wire wheel too long (service life) you will have fine bits of wire in your shirt hair and even face if you dont use a shield.........Yes, I get wire in my shirt and hair a lot....lol, just cant throw them things away when I should .

I used my dremel wire wheel to clean up the head. It looks a lot better and the thermostat fits better. I'm not sure how to get it cleaner than the second pic though. There is still some white corrosion in the edges where I couldn't get the dremel wire wheel. Will the remaining corrosion affect the seal?
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The thermostat cover has some minor pitting. Will this affect the seal?
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Thank you for the advice and info.
 
Cover is fine it should seal.
For the head, use a pick, run the point of it in the corner to scrape out that last bit. Go easy your not mining for aluminum
 
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