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Electrical wire and connector recommendations

RollingJ

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It's time to replace my dual sport lighting wire harness. It works but it's bulky and uses about a thousand bullet connectors.

I'd like to drop the wire gauge down and use sealed connectors. I'll need a crimper as well.

I'm willing to invest in a decent system, but I only want to do it once.

What will give me biggest bang for my buck?

Wire example
Connector example (last two on the page)
 
Oh hello there, my Name is Erik, with Marquez Motorcycle Services and I am the COOFSOPM state wide and have international regions assigned as well.

How may I be of assistance?
 
I've used these with success:


Get a good crimping tool though; it makes all the difference.
 
Wire: ANCOR Marine rated Jacket: PVC Jacket Rating: TEW 600V 105oC (221oF) Dry 75oC (167oF) Wet Strands: Tinned High stranded copper
That is the bare minimum in my book, buy it on amazon in the color and gauge you want... I buy what I need from other sources but get it in 250 ft rolls or larger, for 25, 50, 100ft spools, Amazon is your best bet.

If you REALLLLLLY want to do it right, do it once then you use M22759/32 Tefzel Wire from someplace like Prowire for small quantities. https://www.prowireusa.com/c-59-m22759-32.aspx

Every motorcycle connector you can want can be had from Cycle Terminal http://www.cycleterminal.com/ and or Corsa https://www.corsa-technic.com/
For wire sheathing look to TechFlex https://www.techflex.com/ Only Business can order on line, but you can look online and call in an order.

For adhesive lined heat shrink tube, TE Connectivity RE-25 is considered top of the line and it is all I use on a Motorsport harness...BUT TechFlex has good options as well for high quality low quantity and purchase amount., for extra sealant in a boot or a multy wire run into a piece of heat shrink tube TE Connectivity RayChem S1297 is the cats meow , but agin it only comes in rolls.

If you find you want 2 ft of this wire, 10 feet of that wire, 1.8 ft of a third kind of thing and dont want to buy 3 100 ft rolls plus 2 1p sealed connector and 1 3P connector chances are good I have what you need and could sell you at a per ft, per connector.

As for crimpers, the only one works for everything is a $180 crimper handle set and dies at $65-180 each, BUT there are several $25 low budget tools that can cover open barrel, closed barrel in a size range you would use on bikes. Most of the better auto and Motorsport connector pins and sockets use a specific tool, for crimping the wire and seal...they can be price as well.
For the thick solid brass ring terminals I suggest, tiny hand crimpers are a stretch to get even a working crimp, never mind a good solid one.. For those you might farm it out.

If I may...look at where you want connectors tell me gauge and number of places, I can make a suggestion for a connector and a budget tool.

If you have more then two add on electrical devices, consider the FZ1 Fuse block https://www.fuzeblocks.com/Fuzeblocks-FZ-1-Distribution-Block_p_1.html It dos a few things, organizes your protected circuits to a single device. Allows you to choose at will key on or key off power., allows you to cut out all those inline fuses, making the cable runs smaller and neater, easier to run and protect. Puts all your fuses in a single location not spread out all over the bike.
 
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I just installed this on the FJR to add in some aux lighting in a modular and easily-disconnected fashion.

Pre terminated Deutsch DT connectors is an option and can be had in many pin place sizes... but can end up very bulky harness when your but splicing then protecting 6,8, 10 wires...There are much cleaner ways to do it for the home wrench.
 
Consider TE Connectivity RayChem heat shrink boots for your wire to connector sealing https://www.google.com/search?q=TE+...me..69i57j0.7895j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8




The Break outs and transitions are the right way to do a sealed cable run that has circuits branching off

If your not going to seal the cables, then use one of the PET sheathing options from TechFlex, and use a piece of adhesive lined heat shrink tube at the branch
power cable.jpg
 
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Feel free to ask questions of your friendly COOFSOPM

Respectfully;

Erik

Erik Marquez
COOFSOPM
Marquez Motorcycle Services
254-423-0454
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And advanced Rider training
 
That's a lot of good information.

Thank you.

I think that my best bet might be to draw out my harness with dimensions and give you a call.

Or,

I could spend quite a bit to save a little money.
 
That's a lot of good information.

Thank you.

I think that my best bet might be to draw out my harness with dimensions and give you a call.

Or,

I could spend quite a bit to save a little money.
Let me know if I can help with supplies or advice.
Id offer to make the harness for you, but Im expensive, not a boast, just reality, harnesses done right is not a quick endeavor unless you have the automated measuring, stripping machine, layout and other tooling to speed up the process.. which I do not.
Doing a complete harness is time consuming and for that its pricey.


Along with wire run length, consider where in the cable you want circuits to branch off, add some length for a service loop, and have an idea what true amperage each circuit will carry is ..best way is to measure, but using manufactures specs can work as well. That way wire gauge can be selected that will have a less then 3% voltage drop and a 10-15% overage in capacity yet not be oversized with adds unneeded bulk, less flexibility on path and bends, more expensive in supply cost.
If your not going to use a fuse block (highly suggested if you have more then 2 non stock electrical add ons), plan where you want the inline fuses to be in a circuit.. closest to battery is best, but sometimes you have to move that a bit to put the fuse in a spot that fits, is accessible without removing more than say the seat.

Plan the cable runs so they do not restrict other maintenance, ideally that is both the cabling itself but also your securing mounts..its a pain to need to cut cable ties, remove cable clamps just to clean an air filter, replace a battery, remove a carb.
And again consider later maintenance / add ons and place disconnects (connectors) in a location along the run that service and add on items can be removed without removing 20ft of wiring and a dozen clamps.
 
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