• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

Enough with the freaking snow already! - Motocamping from TX to CA

Day 8: Sunday, 5/22/11
420 mi - Map
Canyonlands National Park, UT to Woods Lake, San Juan National Forest, CO

After my early and full day yesterday, I figured let myself sleep in today. I woke late and slowly packed up camp, finally getting on the road towards Moab with the sun high in the sky. The plan for today was to ride back to Moab, grab some breakfast, fuel, and camping food, then find a campsite in Arches National Park and spend a night or two there. It looked to be another great day for hiking around the Utah redrock country.
DSC00605.jpg


My fuel light was already blinking from my riding around the park yesterday, and I was hoping I would have enough in the tank to get me to Moab, but it was not to be. I ran dry about four miles outside of town and had to dip into the 2-liter reserve I had stashed away in a saddlebag. Good thing I had bought extra fuel along! Arriving in Moab, I refueled and stopped in at the Pancake Haus for a bite to eat (good food, slow service).

At breakfast, I caught up on email, FB, and the weather report. Things look all clear throughout this part of Utah... and southwest Colorado. The forecast in the San Juan mountains is for bright and sunny weather today, chance of rain tomorrow, snow the day after that. The road conditions are supposedly clear and dry. I thought I was done with Colorado, but I still really want to ride 550, and this is looking like my last chance to do it. The window is open now, and it will be closed again in a day or two. I mentally weigh a relaxing day in the national park right next door against a long day of riding with no certain destination. It’s not like I’d be getting an early start either; it’s almost 11am as I’m finishing breakfast.

Ah, who am I kidding? It’s no contest at all. Let’s ride.
DSC00606.jpg


I head back down 191 and east on CO-90, the same way I came two days ago. The ride is just as fun the second time. Crossing the Paradox Valley again, I have to slow waaaay down for a giant herd of cattle along, and in, the road. There are hundreds of them. About halfway through, I stop for a second and grab a picture, but it doesn’t quite convey how many cows there were; the herd must have stretched for two miles along the road. There were a few places I had to come to a complete stop and wait for a path through them to open up in front of me; I found that a quick rev of the engine is a reliable tactic to get them out of the way.
DSC00607.jpg


Leaving CO-90 behind, Hwy 145 is another great ride. West of Norwood it is very scenic, with the Uncompaghre Plateau to the north and isolated mountain peaks to the south. East of Norwood it drops into a canyon along the San Miguel River and mile after mile of smoothly-paved medium-speed sweepers.

Lone Cone, to the south of Hwy 145.
DSC00610.jpg


As I climb up and over the Dallas Divide to Ridgway (Hwy 62), it starts to rain again. Dammit, Colorado.
DSC00612.jpg


I reach Ridgway at 1pm, only two hours after leaving Moab. It’s sprinkling sporadically, and there are dark clouds scattered about. But, I’ve made it to the north end of the Million Dollar Highway, the road is clear, and I can’t wait. As I ride south out of Ridgway the road perfectly splits the blue, sunny sky to the right and the black rainclouds to the left. I wonder which one will win out.
DSC00615.jpg


The sun wins, after a few miles. 550 is a terrific, thrilling ride, a bit sandy in places, but mainly dry and tons of fun. The section along the canyon is amazing... the edge of the road really is *the edge of the road*; no shoulder, no guardrail, just a vertical drop to the river far below. There are right-hand turns where my wheels are on the pavement and my body is suspended over the void. What a ride.

The road climbs up into the mountains through a series of three high passes. The weather is perfect and sunny, warm enough that I don’t even need to turn on my heated liner at the 11,000ft elevations of the passes.
DSC00619.jpg


DSC00620.jpg


Silverton, CO
DSC00623.jpg


DSC00628.jpg


DSC00629.jpg


DSC00630.jpg


DSC00632.jpg


Upon reaching Durango, I stop for a bite to eat, and then head back west towards Dolores. I know there is a state park there with a large campground, and even some hot showers. I’m thinking that would be a great way to end the day. However, when I pull in to a gas station in Dolores at around 530pm, I can’t stop thinking about Hwy 145, heading north back into the San Juan mountains. It’s supposed to be raining tomorrow, and I’d really like to do that road when it’s still dry. It’s a 60-mile ride to Telluride, and I’ve got 3 hours before sunset; I can do 145 and be back at the campsite in plenty enough time to make camp. My day isn’t over yet.
DSC00633.jpg


DSC00635.jpg


DSC00637.jpg


DSC00639.jpg


DSC00641.jpg


Lizard Head Pass
DSC00643.jpg


DSC00644.jpg


DSC00647.jpg


Goal accomplished!
DSC00646.jpg


I stop for a bit of relief at a gas station and find out about a Forest Service campground a few miles down the road that’s apparently open (I’d passed several on the way that were still closed for the winter, as I thought all the ones up here were). I debate heading back to Dolores, or stopping here for the night, and the latter wins out. I’ve done a lot of riding in the past eight hours and am quite ready to make camp.

A few miles farther north along 145, I pass a sign for “campground” and turn onto the side road. It turns to dirt after a short distance (what’s with my attraction to sunset dirt road rides into the mountains?), but it’s a pretty good, 45mph dirt road. I soon come to a fork and am unsure which one to take; my gut says Woods Lake, but Wilson Mesa is much closer in case I guess wrong. I’ll check Wilson Mesa first.

DSC00649.jpg


Guessed wrong. Woods Lake it is.
DSC00650.jpg


Up, and up...
DSC00651.jpg


I eventually reach the campground at Woods Lake, deserted and silent. Since I have my pick of the place, I snag a site with a great view of the lake below the peak of Mount Wilson. Talk about a room with a view. It’s worth skipping a hot shower for this.
DSC00653.jpg


Of course, it’s freezing cold up here at 9,400 feet, so I quickly prepare a hot bite to eat and retreat into my tent as darkness falls. I’m exhausted, but it’s been a great day of riding, and I was able to check a few of the must-do roads off of my list. Colorado, you’ve redeemed yourself. Tomorrow, back to Utah to continue my national parks tour!
 
Great report. :clap::clap: Get all the riding you can in while you can. US 550. My first remembrance of that road in '04. I had a note in my journal. " Next time take 550 last as it sets too high a standard for the rest of the places about here." I had run all the way up to Cascade Park on that ride.
Keep em coming. :clap::clap:
 
Sure glad you had the opportunity for such a great trip. :rider:

Thanks for taking the time to share your memories with us.
Looking forward to the next episode....:coffee:

/Lee
 
The ring replacing the zipper pull on your boot looks like it's probably OK (pretty small), but be sure it can't hang up on anything around your foot peg. It's no fun trying to put your foot down and finding out it's attached to the bike.

Great report. I spent some time at Moab and Arches in 1990. The terrain reminded me of those 1950's sci-fi movies, or Mars w/ tourist.
 
Read through the whole thing - awesome report. Didn't realize that I had driven 550 until I saw your picture of Silverton. Spent one spring break snowboarding in Durango and sleeping in Silverton - crazy road when it's iced over.
 
A+ report--nice balance of excellent shots and commentary. D***, I miss riding.
 
It just keeps getting better! I dont want it to end!
 
Day 9: Monday, 5/23/11
371 mi - Map
Woods Lake, San Juan NF, CO to Capitol Reef NP, UT

I wake up to another beautiful, frigid mountain morning. It had rained or sleeted a bit overnight, and my rainfly was crusted with frozen droplets. I spread it out in the weak sunlight to hopefully defrost a little before getting packed up.
DSC00670.jpg


DSC00671.jpg


I took a short walk around Woods Lake with my coffee before hitting the road. Everything up here is just perfectly calm and still.
DSC00665.jpg


Back at camp, it was time to stuff everything away and get loaded up. My route for today would take me back west, into Utah again. I’d decided to trim off a number of days from my original 3-week estimate for this trip; I was starting to get a little road-weary, and every time I talked to Victoria she would be asking me if I could come home a bit sooner, and that she was having a tough time without me there. So, despite Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP being less then two hours to the north, and Arches NP just a short day’s ride back towards Moab, I decided to skip them both and make for southwest Utah, where there were still a few parks I really wanted to visit, and that I was not willing to skip.

I had a choice of three routes to get to the start of UT-95, which would take me up through Glen Canyon: yet another ride across CO-90 to La Sal and US-191, retracing my route south on CO-145 to Dolores and US-491, or splitting the two and riding the southern half of CO-141 from Naturia to Dove Creek, which was the only one I hadn’t done yet. I’m always up for something new, so CO-141 it is.

The ride back along CO-145 through Norwood, where I stop for a bite to eat, is a blast, just as it was yesterday. Sadly, partway through it, I come across one of those big programmable road signs: “CHIP SEAL COMING SOON!,” and a bit farther on, construction drops the road to one lane as crews are laying down gravel and tar. WHY? That road was wonderful--no cracks or potholes, minimal tar snakes... WHY WOULD YOU DO THAT, COLORADO?

Turning south on CO-141, I discover a road that could have used a good chip-sealing. It was a bumpy, cracked, tarsnaked nightmare. Maybe my extremely full stomach had something to do with my discomfort (I’d had a big breakfast), but riding that road was just painful. It wasn’t nearly as fun as it looks on the map, either... just a boring, unpleasant ride.
DSC00673.jpg


They really nailed it with the names around here. Note for future travellers: If trying to get from Monticello, UT to Montrose, CO, avoid CO-141. UT-46/CO-90, CO-145, and US-550 are all vastly preferable.
DSC00676.jpg


Finally, back onto nice smooth roads, but strong gusty winds. Ugh, this is a day of riding I could do without.
DSC00679.jpg


Interesting engineering along UT-95.
DSC00682.jpg


Approaching Natural Bridges National Monument.
DSC00686.jpg


I paused at Natural Bridges to take a break from riding and do a bit of hiking around. I’m almost tempted to stay here for the night, but the campground is full, so I’ll have to move on. Natural Bridges is a very small park, with three impressive river-carved formations. You can see them from overlooks along a paved drive in the park, or do short hikes down to river level to see them from beneath. The first, and largest, bridge that I come to is the Sipapu Bridge (near the center of this pic). Viewing it from above doesn’t do justice the scale of this thing.
DSC00688.jpg


This is a bit better at illustrating the size of it.
DSC00703.jpg


With a span of 268 feet and height of 220 feet, this is the 2nd largest natural bridge in the world. If you could somehow suspend it over a large body of water, you could sail a Nimitz-class aircraft carrier through it. It’s just huge.
DSC00692.jpg


Viewed from below...
DSC00696.jpg


I skip the hike to Kachina Bridge in the interests of saving time, and instead stop at Okachomo Bridge, the oldest bridge in the park. It look small and fragile compared to Sipapu.
DSC00707.jpg


The afternoon is getting late as I leave Natural Bridges and speed off in the direction of Glen Canyon.
DSC00715.jpg


The Colorado River bridge, at the north end of Lake Powell.
DSC00718.jpg


DSC00722.jpg


I’m once again crossing my fingers that I have enough gas to make it to the next fuel station, in Hanksville. I’m running on fumes as I pull into this nifty stop, the Hollow Mountain. I passed a similar once back on US-191 south of Moab called the Hole-n-the-Rock, but I didn’t get a chance to stop there.
DSC00725.jpg


The sun is falling quickly towards the horizon and dark clouds are gathering as I’m getting ready to leave Hanksville. A quick call to the seedy-looking motel across the street gets me a quote of $90 for a night--more then my hotel back in Grand Junction! I’ll risk the rain and press on to Capitol Reef.
DSC00726.jpg


DSC00727.jpg


A few couples out having fun in their four-wheelers.
DSC00729.jpg


It’s raining lightly but steadily as I pull into the Capitol Reef visitor center at some time past 7pm. A sign informs me that the adjacent campground is full... not entirely unexpected, but... ****.
DSC00732.jpg


However, a friendly couple that I strike up a conversation with tell me that they found a small public-lands “campground” just outside the park boundary to the west. It’s not much of a campground--no water or bathrooms, just a place to pitch a tent--but it sounds like it’ll do for me. I thank them and head off to find it for myself.

Yep, this will do. The clouds are still threatening rain, but it stays dry as I warm up a bite to eat, and then climb a nearby hill for a view of the Reef in the distance as the sun sets.
DSC00733.jpg


DSC00734.jpg


DSC00736.jpg


I haven’t actually come that far today, but I feel like it’s been a long day of riding. I think tomorrow I’ll spend the morning doing a few hikes around Capitol Reef, and then run down to Bryce Canyon, a mere 130 miles away, and see if I can snag a campsite there. I figure as long as I get there earlier in the day I should be fine...
 
When I quit, get fired or win the lotto, I am riding this route! Amazing pictures, thanks for sharing.
 
Thanks to your inspiration Kegan and Vic, wifey and I will be doing our own Colorado escape :rider::clap:
 
Day 10: Tuesday, 5/24/11
188 mi - Map
Capitol Reef NP, UT - Bryce Canyon NP, UT

I’m very pleased (and a bit surprised) to get through the night without any heavy rain. However, the skies are still dark and cloudy as I pack up camp and ride back to Capitol Reef.
DSC00740.jpg


In case you were wondering, Capitol Reef was the name given by early settlers to the 100-mile long escarpment that is known as the Waterpocket Fold (despite quizzing several rangers, I couldn’t get a clear answer as to which name came first, or why today the park is known as Capitol Reef, but the geographic feature is labelled as the Waterpocket Fold on topographic maps). This giant mismatch in the earth’s crust runs from the mountain range north of Torrey all the way to Glen Canyon, and creates a major barrier to east-west travel. Such formations were called “reefs” in the pioneer vernacular, and the great white domes of sandstone that dot the landscape are reminiscent of the dome of the Capitol building, hence, Capitol Reef.
DSC00742.jpg


There is a short, 7-mile scenic drive that runs southward along the west face of the fold. Most of park, farther along the 100-mile length of the fold, is accessible only by dirt roads. The scenic drive, while paved and full of potential, doesn’t quite live up to the standard set by the road in Canyonlands.
DSC00746.jpg


At the south end of the drive, the road turns to dirt and starts into the Capitol Wash, a narrow canyon through the fold. Signs warn not to enter if it’s raining or threatening rain, as this area is subject to flash floods. Hey, the sky doesn’t look *that* dark.
DSC00749.jpg


DSC00751.jpg


DSC00752.jpg


The dirt road eventually ends in a small parking area, and a trail continues on into the canyon.
DSC00758.jpg


At one point, this canyon was the main path through the fold. This wall, in one narrow section, is called the Pioneer Register. Early travellers chiseled their names into the wall as they passed, proving that even a century ago, people couldn’t resist scribbling “Joe was here!” on the landscape.
DSC00760.jpg


DSC00761.jpg


The hike continues down the sandy wash, offering great views of the towering domed rock formations on either side.
DSC00762.jpg


DSC00764.jpg


DSC00766.jpg


A small spur off of the main trail climbs up a narrow side canyon to a series of large natural pools. These pools can hold thousands of gallons of water, even deep into the dry summer months, and were a valuable resource for early travellers. They are also the source of the name of the escarpment: the Waterpocket Fold. You can also see a small natural bridge in the upper left of this photo.
DSC00776.jpg


Erosion has produced some interesting features along the trail. This rock looks almost like it’s flaking apart, and exposed edges look burnt.
DSC00768.jpg


DSC00770.jpg


Back at the parking area, there’s another trailhead. It’s still early in the morning; why not?
DSC00782.jpg


Up, and up...
DSC00787.jpg


DSC00788.jpg


Ah, that’s pretty. Not sure if it was worth the hike, but whatever.
DSC00789.jpg


DSC00791.jpg


This little, twisted tree at the edge of a cliff wasn’t even two feet tall. I wonder how many decades it’s been struggling to survive. Natural bonsai...
DSC00792.jpg


The dark clouds started to gather again as I made my way back down to the trailhead, and I felt a few sprinkles of rain. That flash flood warning is looming large in my mind as I hurry back to the bike.
DSC00795.jpg


There are some *funky* rocks here.
DSC00797.jpg


Looking north along the Waterpocket Fold on my way back to the highway.
DSC00803.jpg


I leave Capitol Reef at about 1pm and head south along scenic UT-12. This should be a great ride, but for some reason, I’m just not feeling it. I can’t seem to click with the bike or the road, and I constantly feel unsteady and nervous, like every single road imperfection is causing me to slide around. At one point I even pull off into a lookout point to check my tire pressures, because I feel so unsteady I’m *sure* I’ve got a flat. But, they’re both fine, and I press on.
DSC00808.jpg


DSC00810.jpg


DSC00812.jpg


DSC00815.jpg


Both the scenery and the road are great, but I’m not really enjoying it. I pass one thrilling section that runs high along a ridge with huge dropoffs on either side, and I find myself yawning as I ride across it. That’s when the realization hits me: I’m tired. I’m not sure why; I’ve been getting a good amount of sleep every night. OK, no night of sleeping in a tent is going to be *great* sleep, but still... I find a place to pull off on the side of the road and climb the small ridge along it. A stunted pine tree is giving shade to a fairly flat rock; this will do nicely, I think. I lay down in the shade, still all geared up, and set my alarm for an hour. It’s not long at all before I’m fast asleep.

I’m awake 40 minutes later, without the help of my alarm, feeling refreshed and much better. The Ironbutt Motel works it’s magic once again. I’m halfway tempted to re-ride some of those sections of Hwy 12 that I wasn’t all there for, but I need to move on... it’s getting later, and I’m worried about being able to find an open campsite in the park.

I roll into Bryce Canyon at around 5pm and grab a spot in the north campground, practically on the rim of the canyon. There’s a general store a short walk up the rim; hot showers, laundry facilities, fresh pizza... I feel like I’m staying at the Four Seasons.
DSC00817.jpg


This view is literally a ninety-second walk from my tent.
DSC00820.jpg


DSC00818.jpg


As dusk falls, I go for a short walk around the campground and end up around a nice fire with a couple of fellow travelers, trading stories into the evening. I head back to my tent before it gets too late, as I’m hoping to be up to catch a sunrise over the canyon tomorrow morning.
 
Good on ya for properly diagnosing yourself (being tired) and pulling over for a short rest. I didn't do that last fall and paid dearly for it. Great report! :thumb:
 
:eek2: You must have been tired to be yawning through UT 12. I rode the opposite way down it two summers ago and I loved every second of it. :zen:

Looking forward to the rest of your adventure. I know what a pain it is to put the report together.
 
Great country you are riding in. Rest is a very important thing. Don't ignore it. I'm good at taking naps on the bike, on a bench, on the ground. Seems like the older I get, the more I take. ;-)
Thanks for the time and work to share with us.
 
This is my summer vacation. Thanks for having it for me! :clap:
 
Day 11: Wednesday, 5/25/1
40 miles around Bryce Canyon National Park

It was a bit cold hanging out around the fire last night, and I knew it was supposed to drop down close to freezing overnight, really? 27*F? I was very tempted to say screw the sunrise and just stay bundled up in my tent. I was able to force myself out eventually, and went for a short walk along the rim to Sunrise Point.

DSC00831.jpg


DSC00834.jpg


DSC00838.jpg


DSC00841.jpg


Something to warm up with as the sun rose.
DSC00837.jpg


There seemed to be a crust of ice on everything. It was very pretty.
DSC00843.jpg


DSC00844.jpg


After sunrise, I headed back to my campsite to repack my bag, and headed off for a short hike through Queen’s Garden and Wall Street. This hike is described in the park guide as “the best 3 mile hike in the world.” It winds down amongst the forest of hoodoos that make up the Bryce Canyon Amphitheater, which is the focal point of the park.

While a lot of natural parks awe you with their size and grandeur, Bryce seems like a rather small, intimate park; the Amphitheater is only two or three miles across. However, like the Upheaval Dome in Canyonlands, it is just a bizarre landscape. If you hadn’t seen the park before and someone showed you a sketch of it, your first reaction would be, “that’s not a real place, you just made that up.” That the slow process of erosion could create thousands of these hoodoos in this one little valley is just amazing.
DSC00854.jpg


DSC00855.jpg


The hoodoos can seem almost translucent when the light hits them just so.
DSC00851.jpg


This is the formation from which the Queen’s Garden gets its name. (I’m still confused as to why there’s an airplane following her feet).
DSC00852.jpg


The hike back out of the valley, up a trail called Wall Street, is jaw-dropping. It climbs up a narrow slot between towering walls of hoodoos. Signs warn that this is the most dangerous hike in the park.
DSC00927.jpg


DSC00858.jpg


DSC00862.jpg


DSC00930.jpg


Switchbacks climbing out of Wall Street remind me of Frogger. I managed to get here just as a busload of French tourists were coming down... “Bonjour! Bonjour!”
DSC00863.jpg


DSC00865.jpg


DSC00869.jpg


Once back at camp, I hopped on the FZ1 and rode over to the visitor center for a bit, then did the scenic drive all the way down to the south end of the park. The numerous scenic overlooks mainly offered the same sweeping vista of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument to the southeast. There were also a few hikes along the way; snow and fallen trees made some of them a bit of a challenge.
DSC00879.jpg


Heading back to the north, I decide to do another hike into the Amphitheater, the Peekaboo Loop. This hike also winds down into the forest of hoodoos, but from the opposite direction of where I was this morning.
DSC00903.jpg


DSC00904.jpg


The trail is eroding rapidly: landslides blocking parts of it, whole edges starting to slide away. In many parks you can see what erosion has carved over millions of years, but you rarely get the impression of it happening as you stand there. Bryce definitely gives you that impression; it’s as though you can feel the landscape falling apart around you as you watch.
DSC00896.jpg


DSC00897.jpg


DSC00901.jpg


This one reminded me of chessmen: pawn, bishop, knight.
DSC00910.jpg


DSC00917.jpg


DSC00906.jpg


Windows.
DSC00907.jpg


DSC00918.jpg


DSC00934.jpg


Back at the campground, I met up with my campfire friends from the night before, who wanted to head up to Bryce Point and get some pictures of the sunset. I tag along with them and get some photos of the photogs, Chris and Megan.
DSC00940.jpg


DSC00954.jpg


On the phone with wifey.
DSC00942.jpg


DSC00945.jpg


DSC00946.jpg


Ashley, Kate, and Megan watching the sunset.
DSC00958.jpg


DSC00960.jpg


Later on, we again got a roaring fire going and broke out the ladies’ supply of gin. We all stayed up way to late and drank way to much, ensuring a very rough following morning, but it was a ton of fun. I stumbled back to my tent at sometime past 3am, reminding myself that I need to be up at a reasonable hour to get to Zion and find a campsite there. We’ll see about that...
 
Your respective entries keep topping themselves. This last installment raised the bar in describing Bryce in words and images. Fantastic Kegan :-)
 
Day 12: Thursday, 5/26/11
105 mi - Map
Bryce Canyon NP, UT to Zion NP, UT

Thankfully, the hangover this morning isn’t that bad, and a bunch of water and some Advil are sufficient to chase most of it away. It’s also much warmer this morning then it was yesterday, which is great.

Just behind my tent is that of an Indian guy named Sylvan (sp?) who’s studying in Paris, and decided to spend his vacation touring the southwest US on two wheels, kind of like me. Except he needs to pedal. He’s been a month on the road and has ended up in Bryce by way of SF, LA, Death Valley, Vegas, Grand Canyon... and here I thought *I* was a bit adventurous.
DSC00973.jpg


I’m finally packed up and on the road at about 11am. Goodbye, Bryce Canyon.
DSC00978.jpg


Hello, Zion.
DSC00980.jpg


The ride from Bryce to Zion passes extremely quickly. It’s the Thursday before Memorial Day, and traffic is starting to pick up. The roads aren’t clogged, but there are frequent long packs of cars and RVs that are taken care of with a hard twist of the wrist. It’s a fun, almost video-gamesque ride, luckily devoid of any enforcement. I zip by numerous photo opportunites, focused on getting to Zion and snagging a site before they all fill up.

Arriving at the campground, I’m greeted by a sign: “FULL.” Oh, no... it’s not even 1pm! I stop by the camp host’s site and ask him if it’s *really* full, and he asks, “you just need a place for a tent? There’s one walk-in site left.” “I’ll take it!” The site is down near the river, about a thirty-yard walk from the road. There are no trees, and the site is infested with all manner of bugs, but it’ll do.
DSC00982.jpg


It is warm here, probably close to 80*F. The info board shows the forecast for the next two days to be highs in the 80s, lows in the 50s, and zero chance of rain. I don’t even bother with my tent’s rainfly... I think I’m in heaven.

After getting my site set up, I board one of the park shuttles (no private vehicles are allowed on the road into Zion Canyon) and head off to find an afternoon hike.

The scenery here is breathtaking. Zion is home to the tallest sandstone cliffs in the world, and as you travel up the canyon, the towering walls seem to close in on you.
DSC01003.jpg


DSC01002.jpg


Looking out the canyon to the south.
DSC01004.jpg


I do a short hike to the Emerald Pools, which are more of a opaque algae-green then Emerald. Eww. The upper pool does have a nice waterfall feeding it, though.
DSC00999.jpg


I continue walking north from Emerald Pools to the Grotto, where I find the trailhead for Angel’s Landing. This large outcrop is thrust out into the middle of the valley, away from the walls on either side. Early visitors trying to find a path to the top deemed it impossible and declared that only angels would be able to land atop it.
DSC01008.jpg


Today, there is a trail to the summit, and quite a trail it is. The first section climbs away from the river into Refrigerator Canyon, between Angel’s Landing and the west walls of Zion Canyon. It is significantly cooler in here then out in the open.
DSC01014.jpg


Then, out of the Refrigerator on a series of switchbacks called “Walter’s Wiggles,” after an early park superintendent who oversaw their construction.
DSC01015.jpg


The final leg of the hike climbs up the narrow ridge to the summit of the outcrop. In places it is only a few feet wide, and the rocks are slick with loose sand. There are chains along the rocks to provide something to hold on to... a slip here means a thousand-foot plunge to the river below. There are many hikes I’ve done where doing something stupid can get you killed. At Angel’s Landing, you don’t even need to be stupid... just unlucky.
DSC01021.jpg


I met up with a couple of other hikers, Brad and Todd, and climbed the final half-mile with them.
DSC01017.jpg


DSC01018.jpg


DSC01019.jpg


DSC01022.jpg


DSC01023.jpg


Lifeline.
DSC01027.jpg


At the top! Looking north up the canyon towards the Temple of Sinawava.
DSC01030.jpg


Looking south, out of the canyon.
DSC01032.jpg


IMG_2040.jpg


No Diving.
DSC01033.jpg


P1000561.jpg


Looking back at Angel’s Landing. There is a small group of people decending the ridge on the lower right.
DSC01043.jpg


Definitely quite the thrilling hike, and just an awesome view as a reward. There were still many other places in the park to explore, but those would have to wait for another day; the sun was almost set as I got back to my campsite and warmed up a bit of dinner before bed.
 
Oh my, a couple of those last Zion hiking pics made me weak in the knees. :eek2: I don't think I could do it. :giveup:
 
Day 13: Friday, 5/27/11
30 miles around Zion National Park, UT

I wake up Friday morning to the first rays of the sun catching the upper reaches of the West Temple. I could get used to this no-rainfly thing. After watching the light creep down the cliff walls a bit, I roll out of bed and gear up for a morning ride.
DSC01048.jpg


In the five minutes that I’m loading the bike and gearing up, I have no less then a half dozen people come up and ask me if I’m leaving. I know it’s the Friday before Memorial Day, but jeez, it’s like 7am. It makes me realize how lucky I was to get a site yesterday.

The Zion-Mt Carmel Highway runs from Zion Canyon to the east end of the park. It’s a fantastic ride, as scenic and entertaining as you could ask for. I had a blast on it yesterday, but was somewhat hampered by traffic; I’m hoping I can ride it again this morning before it’s too crowded, and get some pictures this time as well.
DSC01051.jpg


DSC01055.jpg


DSC01057.jpg


A short tunnel along the road. The more famous tunnel along Pine Creek Canyon is over a mile long, very narrow, with no lights. I got a bit tense riding through it.
DSC01059.jpg


Water running along the rock faces creates interesting patterns.
DSC01060.jpg


I think this may be my favorite photo from the trip.
DSC01067.jpg


A short hike off of the road leads to the Canyon Overlook, which provides a vista of the lower Zion Canyon and the highway dropping down into it.
DSC01074.jpg


DSC01076.jpg


Back at my campsite after my morning ride, I pack a bag and again catch the shuttle into the park for a day of hiking. I hop off at the Court of the Patriarchs, a side valley dominated by three towering monoliths. Left to right, they are Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob (which is partially hidden behind the smaller Mt Moroni in the foreground).
DSC01080.jpg


Rather then just doing the short hike to a viewpoint, I follow a dirt path up the valley to see where it leads. One of the first things I come across is a pickup parked on a service road, with a couple of turkeys admiring their reflections in the chrome bumper.
DSC01085.jpg


Isaac Peak.
DSC01087.jpg


The path roughly follows a creek up the valley, passing small pools here and there.
DSC01088.jpg


More wildlife.
DSC01112.jpg


DSC01093.jpg


Abraham Peak.
DSC01094.jpg


Looking back across the valley towards the Mountain of the Sun.
DSC01097.jpg


At the sheer wall of Abraham Peak, at the very back of the valley.
DSC01102.jpg


A good two or three hours after passing the pickup on my way into the valley, I pass it again on the way out... and that turkey is still there. Every thirty seconds or so, he swiftly headbutts his reflection in the bumper. I keep my distance in case he should decide to try headbutting me.
DSC01115.jpg


I catch the shuttle all the way to the back of the valley and hike up the Riverside Walk to The Narrows, which is a famous trail into the upper reaches of Zion Canyon. Sadly, the river is far to high to attempt to hike it.
DSC01125.jpg


A cairn forest along the river.
DSC01124.jpg


A tall waterfall along the Riverside Walk.
DSC01121.jpg


I do one more short hike to the Weeping Rock before heading back to camp.
DSC01139.jpg


It’s getting towards 3pm, and it is hot. I’m pretty tired and a nap sounds great, so I stretch the rainfly over my tent to give myself some shade and pass out for a few hours. I awake when it’s a bit cooler, and start thinking about dinner. I still have food that I can prepare on my stove, but I’m really hungry, and the town of Springdale is just a few miles away. I hop on the bike and ride into town to find myself a real meal.

Now THAT is what I’m talking about.
DSC01140.jpg


After dinner, it’s back to camp to watch the sun set and hang out by my small fire until bed. There are still quite a few hikes I want to do, so I decide I’ll stay here one more day and then head on.
DSC01142.jpg
 
Day 14: Saturday, 5/28/11
90 miles around Zion NP/Kolob Reservoir Rd

DSC01150.jpg


Another beautiful day in Zion! My goal today is to do one of the hikes to the actual rim of the valley, since I just didn’t have enough energy to do one yesterday. The most accessible of these hikes is the one to Observation Point, an 8-mile roundtrip with a 2,100 foot elevation gain. Well, I’ve got all day...

The sun had *almost* made it to the floor of the canyon when I started the hike at 9:30am.
DSC01151.jpg


The trailhead is the same one as the short walk to the Weeping Rock that I did yesterday; looking down at it, you can see how the water seeping from the rocks carved out a large pocket. There are some people visible in this photo if you look closely.
DSC01153.jpg


I finally get my first sunlight of the day at around 10:30am.
DSC01154.jpg


DSC01156.jpg


Echo Canyon.
DSC01164.jpg


DSC01166.jpg


DSC01195.jpg


A view of Cable Mountain from inside Echo Canyon.
DSC01167.jpg


It took me about 2 hours to get to the top of Observation Point. The views are fantastic in every direction.
DSC01181.jpg


This is looking south, with the Great White Throne on the left, and Angel’s Landing visible in the lower right. Angel’s Landing was crowded with hikers; I can’t imagine trying to constantly pass people along that trail.
DSC01178.jpg


The waterfall I saw along the Riverside Walk yesterday doesn’t look nearly as tall from up here.
DSC01176.jpg


The trail far below.
DSC01179.jpg


There were many places to just sit and take in the view, if you had the nerves for it.
DSC01187.jpg


DSC01186.jpg


DSC01191.jpg


I relaxed at the top for an hour or so with some snacks and my book, then headed back down. Near the bottom of the trail, a fork leads to Hidden Canyon, another slot canyon behind the Great White Throne.
DSC01205.jpg


Once in Hidden Canyon, the trail goes away and you just follow the canyon up as far as you like.
DSC01206.jpg


Water and time...
DSC01208.jpg


DSC01211.jpg


There are frequent obstacles along the walk up the canyon. It’ll be an easy, sandy path for a hundred yards, and then some rockfall or steep ledge will block the way, and I’d need to figure out how to get past it. It was actually a pretty fun hike.
DSC01218.jpg


DSC01221.jpg



After a mile of hiking and a dozen or more obstacles, I’m pooped. I remind myself that I still need to make it back down all those technical bits without injuring myself, and decide to turn around while I still have a bit of energy left.

Connor and Cameron, a couple from SF that I met along the hike, using some fallen trees to descend one of the rockfalls.
DSC01223.jpg


Back at camp, I was ready to heat up a helping of food over my stove, but a conversation back along the trail regarding the joys of Mexican food was still rattling around in my head. Back to town it is.
DSC01229.jpg


After dinner, I debate doing another short hike near the campground, but decide against it. Over the past five days I’ve hiked nearly 45 miles with 10,000 feet of elevation gain. I think I’m through with hiking. I instead decide to take a short ride up Kolob Reservoir Road, which leads to the less-visited central area of the park.
DSC01230.jpg


The peaks around Zion Canyon are visible from many spots along the road.
DSC01233.jpg


At the Lava Point Overlook.
DSC01246.jpg


DSC01252.jpg


Finally, it was back to camp for a good night’s sleep before getting back on the road tomorrow. I figure I’m no more then a few days from home; I want to ride up to Great Basin National Park in eastern Nevada tomorrow, spend a night or two there, and then across Nevada to the Sierras. Tioga Pass into Yosemite was still closed when I left Texas, but I’m hoping it might be open by now. If not, I’ll find another open pass, or in the worst-case, just pick up I-80 from Reno back towards the Bay. My trip is slowly coming to a close, but I’m enjoying it while it lasts!
 
Day 15: Sunday, 5/29/11
711 miles - Map
Zion NP, UT to Culver City, CA

I got a fairly early start out of Zion; Great Basin NP is only 200 miles away, but it’s still Memorial Day weekend and I’d like to get there at a reasonable time in hopes of finding a campsite. I head out of the park to the east, along the Zion-Mt Carmel Highway, and stop for a bite to eat at the Mt Carmel Junction. While at breakfast, I’m able to catch up with the outside world and check the weather forecast on my phone. Unfortunately, snow showers are predicted throughout the northern part of Nevada, including the entire length of US-50 and Great Basin NP. There’s only a slight chance of rain along the more southern route through Tonopah, and I’ve had my fill of snow in Colorado, so I’ll leave Great Basin and US-50 for another time and stay keep south. I’m sad about missing yet another national park, but it will trim another day or two off of my ride home, which should make Vic happy.

Leaving Mt Carmel Junction, I head north for a bit and pick up UT-14 towards Cedar City. It gains elevation rapidly, and before I know it I’m adding layers to keep warm as I ride through another snow-covered landscape. I’m taking some time to adjust to this, after spending the past three days in 80something degree heat!
DSC01257.jpg


DSC01260.jpg


The scenic drive up to Cedar Breaks was on my list of roads to ride, but it was still closed for the winter.
DSC01262.jpg


I passed under I-15 at Cedar City and continued west through Utah and into Nevada. The winds picked up the farther west I went, and the clouds ahead loomed dark and ugly. The wind gusts couldn’t seem to pick a direction, and I was getting blown all over my lane, going from a full right lean to a full left lean and back again in the span of a few seconds. I don’t think I was giving the bike this much steering input on some of those Colorado twisties.
DSC01267.jpg


DSC01268.jpg


The temperatures kept dropping as I continued into Nevada, and it started to rain here and there. My heated jacket liner had decided to go on the fritz and would turn off randomly and refuse to turn back on. I’d give up on playing with it until I was freezing, give it another try, and voila, it suddenly be working again, and then turn off a few minutes later. Frustrating.

I passed through the town of Caliente and decided that whoever named this place needs a swift kick in the face for being such a smartass.

Leaving Caliente, US-93 climbs over one of the dozens of low mountain ranges that dot the Nevada landscape. It was raining lightly in town, and as I follow the road, it starts sticking to my helmet. Oh, **** no, not again. This was all supposed to be way up north, IT WAS BARELY SUPPOSED TO BE RAINING HERE!
DSC01271.jpg


ENOUGH WITH THE FREAKING SNOW ALREADY!!!
DSC01274.jpg


It’s freezing cold, my heater isn’t working, the wind is still being a giant ****, and it’s snowing on me yet again. This is NOT what I had imagined today’s ride to be like.

I finally make it down out of the snow and to the intersection with UT-375, the Extraterrestrial Highway. The next gas is in Tonopah, 150 miles away, so I make a quick detour south to Ash Springs to refuel.
DSC01275.jpg


While at the gas station, I run into a group of cruisers that had just come down from Tonopah, including one guy on a stunning 1949 HD. I was impressed that he would bring this bike out in this weather.
DSC01276.jpg


DSC01277.jpg


Unfortunately, the news I heard at the gas station was not so good. “We just came down from Tonopah; we were supposed to be here earlier but the passes were closed. They’re open now, but it’s still snowing and nasty up there.” “I live in Ely, and we were supposed to get snow flurries last night. We got six inches instead. You don’t want to head north, trust me.” “If I were you, and I had a choice, I would *not* head to Tonopah right now.”

Arrrgggghhhhh.

Well, it’s snowing to the west. *Really* snowing to the north. I just came from the east, snow there. Guess there’s only one place to go.

Vegas, Baby. Vegas.
DSC01278.jpg


The wind along I-15 dropping down into the Las Vegas Valley is crazy, some of the strongest I’ve ever ridden in. At least it’s coming from a constant direction, but still, it’s downright scary. I decide to pull off the freeway to cruise the strip, and come to a stop at the traffic signal. I’m not a small guy, and the FZ1 isn’t really a big, heavy bike, and I knew that it was windy and made sure to plant my feet wide and firmly at the light. I *still* almost dropped it due to the wind.

A few sights from Vegas...
DSC01280.jpg


DSC01282.jpg


I had briefly debated staying the night, but it was still early in the afternoon and I decided to press on westward. This trip is getting real old, real fast, and thoughts of home are starting to flicker through my mind. I’m still quite a ways from San Jose, and don’t think I can make it there tonight, but I can at least get to Bakersfield or so, and be home by mid-morning tomorrow (Memorial Day) to spend the day with Vic.
DSC01283.jpg


However, when I call Vic from Baker, she informs me that she has to work tomorrow, so there’s no sense in me getting home early. “Why don’t you go visit Anj in LA?” she suggests. Well, OK. I call Anj, and old college friend, and she immediately offers me a place to stay, except that she’s in San Diego and won’t be back until 11 or so. It’s OK, I know how to kill time in LA.

I have an early dinner outside of the city to let traffic die down a bit, and then hit the mess of freeways into LA. I realize that despite living here for 5 years, and taking the MSF and getting my first motorcycle license here, this is the first time I’ve ever actually ridden in LA. It’s a lot of fun just cruising around the city, taking in the nighttime views.
DSC01290.jpg


DSC01307.jpg


If you are ever near downtown and need a bite to eat, go find Phillipe’s. Best french dip sandwich you will ever have. Easy on the mustard.
DSC01292.jpg


DSC01294.jpg


I decided to swing by another LA institution to pick up some cookies for Anj, as a thank-you for letting me stay with her. Diddy Riese makes some fantastic cookies, but it has two drawbacks: it’s right next door to one of the more distasteful educational institutions in the country, and there’s almost always a line out the door. The line tonight is rediculous even by Diddy Riese standards; it streches almost to the end of the block. Sorry, Anj, no cookies tonight.
DSC01308.jpg


My hostess for the night, AnjC!
DSC01314.jpg


I timed my arrival at Anj’s place perfectly, getting there just as she was getting home. After a nice, long, hot shower (ahhh!) we hung out for a while, catching up with each other, before hitting the sack. I fall asleep reflecting on how screwed up today was, that I should wind up nearly 600 miles from where I had intended to spend the night... Oh well, just have to roll with it. I’m still looking forward to some fantastic riding tomorrow on my way north.
 
Back
Top