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FJR trailered with a Rabbit

cdc

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I recently bought this small, foldable Harbor Freight trailer from a fellow TWT. For the past couple of days with help from a friend, we have re-painted it and we are in the process of mounting the choke in a manner that would be easy to dismount (to be able to fold it back).

The trailer had additional support for the board with 2x4s that I now used to also support the 1.5" angles to mount the chock.

5875b096.jpg



We 'test loaded' the bike today to verify the trailer balance.

So far is looking good, next we will add hooks for the straps and finish other details.

c402c2a1.jpg



c5f3320f-1.jpg
 
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They'll hold more than that FJR weighs. They're great trailers for what you're doing. I have the smaller one (~4x4) and tow my dirt bikes and dual sports around on it with my Honda Fit. Watch the bearings, but no issues so far. =)
 

JT

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Hi Camilo, you have done a good job of securing the chock, but I 'm not sure the chock is far enough forward. Bumper pull trailers need to have the weight bias to the front, usually 5-10% of the total trailer weight should be on the trailer tongue to keep the trailer stable. The way your angles are mounted it will be easy to drill additional mounting holes to move the chock further forward if necessary.
When I hauled the HD on the trailer, I loaded it all the forward and still had barely 100 pounds on the hitch, but it didn't fishtail.
The trailer is rated for 1150 pounds cargo.
 
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Let me echo the advice concerning tongue weight that brother John offered. I lost a good Jeep scrambler 20 years ago because of making that mistake. The trailer was built right - just loaded wrong.

One of my guys was pulling it through a long sweeping down-hill curve and it started whipping. He had trailer brakes but didn't think to reach down and activate by hand...he knew not to brake with the Jeep.

Physics took over. When I looked back, the Jeep was in the air doing a cartwheel. The guy would have been crushed were it not for the seat belt and heavy roll bars. Totaled the jeep. Sent the driver to the hospital.

Make sure you have a tongue heavy load. Like ours that day, a trailer may pull just fine on flat ground but get ugly when things turn less than ideal.

And yes, carry a spare set of bearings and tools to swap em out on the road.

I really dislike pulling a trailer.
 

SL350

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You can add a spare tire and carrier up front and it will add to the tongue weight. Might be best to weigh it as-is first, photos can be deceiving.
 

cdc

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Thanks for the great advise.

As it is now, it is easy to lift the tongue. I will weight it and then again adding the spare and the ramps secured toward the front, I think the added weight will be enough to have the 5 to 10% John suggested.

Thanks again!!
 
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Nuther picture of that beautiful FJR is always welcome but I'd rather see one of a bathroom scale set under that tongue at hitch height. :rofl:
 

JT

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Nuther picture of that beautiful FJR is always welcome but I'd rather see one of a bathroom scale set under that tongue at hitch height.
I agree, and the 5-10% is really the low limit. It wouldn't hurt to have 100-150lbs, the car should be able to handle it. What is the rated maximun tongue weight for that hitch on the Rabbit?
 

cdc

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I agree, and the 5-10% is really the low limit. It wouldn't hurt to have 100-150lbs, the car should be able to handle it. What is the rated maximun tongue weight for that hitch on the Rabbit?
The max tongue load is 200 lbs.

We will settle this in a few days...

Again, thanks for the advise!

Camilo D.
 

cdc

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I am almost done with the 'trailer project' and it's taking longer than anticipated (not that I am in any rush as no trip is planned yet...). Fortunately I have a friend helping.

Yesterday we (fsierrai) loaded and secured the bike, took around the neighborhood and on the feeder of I-10. And obviously you can feel the weight with my car.

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.
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We then weighted the tongue:
Tongheweight004.jpg


Once I add the two ramps and the spare tire, I think I will have about 100 lbs in the tongue.

Today, we finished replacing the wires and connecting the electric converter in the car and everything is working fine.

I still need to finish side rails to mount the ramps for transportation.
 
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i have a simular setup to yours. been on a few 500 mi trips with no probs so far. those wheels that the trailer rolls on when its folded are crap though.

bike053.jpg
 

cdc

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i have a simular setup to yours. been on a few 500 mi trips with no probs so far. those wheels that the trailer rolls on when its folded are crap though.

bike053.jpg
It's good to see others using this set up!
 
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Austin
It's good to see others using this set up!
the trailer flexes(sp?) when you take a turn. it still unnerves me the first few miles. then i just accept it. but you'll def see the bike lean in the rear view. but if it'll handle the st1300 it should be fine for most bikes i'd think. and my buddy used it for a full bagger harley too.
 
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Nice job, motor is in front of the axle so that certainly helps. Good that you'll be approaching the 100lbs on the front.

I bet your Rabbit does a better job than my old car.



Yes, that MR2 was rated for 1K pounds too.
I remember my dad hauling an entire palate of sod on a '65 Ford truck bed trailer, with a '69 Bug. He hauled railroad ties that way, too. He wasn't poor, just REAL CHEAP...
 
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I'd recommend finding a better way than those little bungies to hold your ramps down. The vibrations will allow the ramps to slice through those and then you'll reach your destination and start wondering where you lost your ramp. Don't ask how I know this.
 
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I'd recommend finding a better way than those little bungies to hold your ramps down. The vibrations will allow the ramps to slice through those and then you'll reach your destination and start wondering where you lost your ramp. Don't ask how I know this.
gotta a truck now. so the ramp'll get tossed in the bed. guess i got lucky:mrgreen:
 
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