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Fort Worth, Alaska, Tuktoyaktuk 2018

That pic with Denali poking through, I would have that framed.

I remember when you rode with us last spring right after you bought the 701. At that time you had concerns about the seat. Did you do something with the seat? Congrats on this epic ride and thanks for this great report.

when you told me you were going to ride the 701 to alaska in June, my first thought was NOOOOOOO Wayyyyyyy will he do it!

We’re you going to post your video of trip somewhere?


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What a great adventure Ps. 19:1. came to mind when just the summit appeared through clouds. I never saw the top when I was up there in June of 2003.
 
I always think of the Psalms when I am riding in the mountains, or even just the little county roads here in East Texas. The whole act of riding a motorcycle makes me think of the incredible intricacies of the physics, thermodynamics, engineering, etc,... all made possible because of the amazing world in which we live and breathe. Find joy in the great things and find it in the little things because it can be found almost everywhere. I does wonders for my attitude when I make this a discipline.

This is an excellent report! Can't wait for the rest :popcorn:
 
Praise the Lord!

I enjoyed reading your excellent ride report. The pictures are outstanding as well.

I think you have catapulted to the top of the TWTEX ride report section in terms of endurance and also persuading others that a mid-bore dual-sport bike is more than capable in handling long days in the saddle. Although with the stock seat, my rear would have been on fire after just a few hundred miles. <lol>

More importantly, when you reached Alaska you could go on routes and remote dirt roads that a GS or African Twin would no even begin to venture.

Awesome work!

RB
 
June 14, 2018 Thursday 09:39 pm
Lat: 63.888, Long: -142.242

389 miles today. Made it to West Fork Campground about 20 miles south of Chicken. It is a state campground and the best of trip thus far; only ten dollars. Mosquitoes are the worst I have encountered so far. There is a river passing through this area but I am too tired to make the hike down to it.

Beautiful day! Clouds with on and off sun. I think it might have reached 70 degrees.

One early highlight of the day was breakfast at Peggy's in Anchorage. I met a man from Weatherford. He is an AC contractor and has been doing work for Alcon (where I work) since 1982. He knew many people that I know in facilities. We sat at a counter together and chatted over breakfast. Peggy's is the real deal right across from the airport. I had a great breakfast that included homemade pie.

Anchorage was too busy for me. I was pleased to move on. I did not really give it a fair look around. Coming into town was like I-35 in Dallas.

More mountains almost continuously. Curvy mountain roads were a lot of fun. I saw several moose today and I think I have video of two crossing the road. Still photographs remain elusive. They move away before I can get to the camera. No bears today.

It is 7:00pm and I am moving into the tent. I am tired and will continue this when I am horizontal.

Okay this is better except I may fall asleep.

I will cross back into Canada tomorrow. The border is only about 50 miles away and doesn't open until 8:00am. I think it is only another 100 or so miles into Dawson City. That should put me there early enough to get the tires changed. I should be able to start my push north on the Dempster Highway on Saturday morning. Maybe. Last forecast I saw was for rain Saturday. I think I will get an Inreach forecast now.

It never gets completely dark here now.

Met two guys from Brazil at the hotel in Anchorage yesterday. One of them had crashed his BMW GSA 1200. They had to replace the sub frame. They were able to get one overnighted from California. They were working on it when I went to bed. When I left the next morning it was all back together.

Ran into two guys in Tok that had attempted to ride the Dalton up to Prudhoe Bay. One was on a GS and the other was on a Gold Wing. They made it about halfway and turned around. They advised me that the Gold Wing was not the bike to take up there. The Wing was, shall we say, scuffed.

Oh, I also noticed a broken blood vessel in my eye today. It does not seem to hurt.

I stocked up on food when I passed through Tok. I also found the little boxes of wine again.

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One of the Glaciers off the Glen Allan Highway.

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No electricity in Chicken Alaska but they have these. When I arrived early to buy gas they had to start the large diesel generator first.

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View from the Top of the World Highway.

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T Did you do something with the seat? .....

We’re you going to post your video of trip somewhere?

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Made the journey with the stock seat. I guess I adapted. I did stand often. I thought I would post the link to the video at the end. It would be a spoiler if I did that at the beginning :)
 
^^^Ditto^^^ :thumb:
I've made some miles among the mountains but never seen anything even close to that. Wow!
 
June 15, 2018 Friday 10:33 pm
716 Klondike Hwy, Dawson, YT Y0B 1G0, Canada | 69°F

128 miles today. Perfect, warm day. Passed over the top of the world highway thru Chicken into Dawson City. Crossed the Yukon River on a ferry. Back on Pacific coast time now.

Tires were waiting for me at the campground in Dawson City. I washed the bike at the car wash before I changed the tires. I spent the afternoon changing the tires and going over things on the bike. I adjusted the mirror that I knocked out of whack when I fell on Petersville Road. Cleaned and lubed the chain. Did not change the oil. Still another 1,000 miles to go. I originally thought I would do that here but I was tired and needed to rest.

Went to town and ate, not so good, Chinese food. It was the first restaurant I came to.

I have met a few guys that have just returned from Tuktoyaktuk. One guy from Quebec only went to Inuvik because of cold and snow. Another guy, Nic, from Wisconsin made the whole trip but fell twice. His BMW R1200, with street tires, is missing a windshield and headlight housing. He had ridden to Inuvik in one day. That would be a 500-mile day on gravel on a road bike.

A guy from Quebec, with a French name I could not pronounce, gifted me a rotopax gas container that he was going to discard because he didn't want to carry it anymore. I think it was a gift from God.

Met a guy from Ireland that had been across Europe, Russia, Mongolia, including the Road of Bones on an older KLR. He had his bike shipped to Vancouver. Those things (KLRs) are amazing. He had a Mitas E07 on the rear that was bald as a bean. He had 12,000 miles on it and told me he was going to try to make it back to Vancouver with it. I offered him my old tire. It was a different size of course.

This place is noisy. I am going to try to sleep but there is a truck or RV making a hideous racket.

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Hit the car wash before I started. Leg Up telescoping prop works pretty well at keeping the bike upright for a tire change. There is a Velcro loop on the front brake lever and rock-straps stabilize the bars.


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Heidenau K60 Scout tires survived well. I had 5000 miles on them at this point. The next day I encountered mud for hours. I was so happy to have new tires with new, sharp tread. I made it home on these tires, another 5000 miles, with slightly less wear than this it seems. I love it when a plan comes together.

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Pumped tires up with mountain bike hand pump that I carried. It is partially obscured by a paper towel in this pic just above and to the right of the tire.

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Note tube of KY Jelly (orange tube). It makes an excellent tire mounting lube and comes in a handy, small, container that dispenses it easily and travels well. Excess eventually evaporates.

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Ready to go with new rubber.
 
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June 16, 2018 Saturday 09:32 pm
Fort McPherson, NT X0E 0J0, Canada | 46°F

Big day today. 359 miles of gravel dirt and mud. Hit the Dempster this morning in a light rain. By mid-morning it cleared and I made good time. I got 167 miles on my tank before refilling from my can. I crossed the Arctic Circle 66 degrees, 33 minutes North. I entered Northwest Territories. Not much wildlife today.

The NT border is at the top of Wright Pass. I entered into a heavy fog. As I went over the pass and began my descent the road turned to serious mud. The fog persisted for 10 miles or so. Steady rain began. I had to slow to 10-20 mph. The mud went on, seemingly, forever. Slowly the road improved but only slightly.

When I reached the Peel River ferry there was a mud slicked hill leading down to the ferry and the same leading up on the other bank. I thanked God for the new tires. Even with them I felt almost out of control most of the time. I imagined crashing right there at the ferry. I survived by the Grace of God.

I end up just south of Fort McPherson in the Nitainlaii Territorial Park. Would have been really nice except for the mud everywhere. Had a nice shower house run by a diesel engine. It ran on a timer for a few hours in the morning and evening. You shower when the engine runs.

Kept passing the two brothers in the old Ford van. They were originally from Galveston now living in Anchorage. They are camping in the same place I am a second time now. They were occasionally stopping to fish. There were lakes and rivers everywhere. They told me stories of catching abundant pike and one arctic grayling that they were especially proud of. If I come back here I will allot more time and bring collapsible fishing gear.

At Eagle Plains I met a young couple with a two-week old baby. His name was Peter. They were from Minneapolis. They were taking advantage of maternity leave to take vacation.

Met Shawn from Anchorage. He is on a 1090 KTM. There is a group of about five. They have a truck and trailer following them with all their gear. Seems like cheating but I would love to do that.

The cold seems to be wearing on me. I guess I am just getting old. It goes below 40 and I just can't get comfortable. I am okay at night. I have my zero degree sleeping bag which is good down to about 20. I am having to use the heated gear on high and continuously.

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Started out in the rain.

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Felt a degree of self satisfaction having reached this mile stone in my journey. This is the farthest North I had ever been. Two young ladies in a Jeep Cherokee took this picture for me. They said they were born and raised in Inuvik. They had never been here before. They said everything they owned was in the Jeep and they were moving to Yellowknife. Note headlight. I had to clear it every time I stopped.

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Dense fog, steady rain and subsequent mud caused me to slow to a crawl for four to five hours. Slick mud and dense fog caused intense pucker factor. Who was it earlier commenting on how clean the bike was? It was spotless when I started this morning. This muck covered everything.

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Peel River Ferry. Mud leading on to and off of it was really dicey. I did manage to stay upright.

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Nitainlaii Territorial Park. Headlight cleared now.
 
Regarding your issues with getting pics, look into a pro shot camera mount. I have been using one for awhile and it makes it easier to get those quick shots. I tried the Bluetooth remote and like you said it was eating up batteries. I just take pics or video manually.
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About the cameras: First I am not an expert. I just like taking photos of my adventure because I am old and forget what I've experienced. I am almost always disappointed in what my cell phone gives me so I carried some camera stuff. I often take dozens of shots to, hopefully, by dumb luck, get a reasonably good shot. All of the still pictures I took with a trusty old Canon EOS Rebel XT. I used the 18-55mm kit lens for most shots. I did also carry an inexpensive 75-300mm zoom lens for close ups of animals and such. I kept all this in the tank bag. I discovered near the end of my trip that some of the troubles I have been whining about with this camera were cause by a failing auto focus "motor" in the 18-55mm lens. It is very old and has been thoroughly abused in many of these such adventures. I have since replaced the faulty lens. I also had a wireless remote for this camera that I used occasionally. If you look carefully in the shot above of me in front of the Dempster Highway sign you will see it in my left hand.

I also had a new, purchased for this trip, Sony FDRX3000 action cam video camera. Most of my issues with it were just learning curve problems. It took some amazing video despite my amateur failings. I had it mounted on my helmet. There are issues even with that but it mostly worked great. The issues were thinking about turning it on and off, wind noise, bugs, mud, batteries and host of other things that I just needed to pay attention to. I took it off in the foulest rain and snow. It is supposed to be waterproof. This camera has a very wide angle lens. It will shoot in 4k although I shot everything in HD. The quality was still great and not many devices can take advantage of the 4k playback yet.
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I did not actually take a photo of the video camera mount but I did accidentally capture it in a couple photos. I cropped these out the larger images to be able to show where and somewhat how it was mounted. It was on a quick release and there was a safety lanyard as well. I could operate the record button with my gloves on. A small red record light could be seen if I looked in my mirror. The setup worked better than the operator. (Note pic above shows gift Rotopax lashed to my other fuel can)

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June 17, 2018 Sunday 11:59 pm
Inuvik, NT X0E, Canada | 57°F

321 miles of gravel and mud today. Big day. No gas in Ft McPherson, not open. Crossed the Mackenzie River ferry early today. The mud was rutted, deep and scary. I made it across. Saw an Arctic fox but not much else in wildlife.

Reached Inuvik and the weather was perfect. I decided to make the day a long one and make the ride up to Tuktoyaktuk and back. It was harder than I thought. Road was loose and soft. I made it by late afternoon. The Arctic Ocean was still in ice. I sat on the shore and sent messages till my fingers were frozen useless. (The Inreach (no cell here) message key board requires you to navigate to each letter with a rocker button and then push enter. It is slow) No gas in Tuktoyaktuk, closed. Too late on Sunday. Sent this to a few folks and Facebook: "Today God gave me Tuktoyaktuk. I am delighted in Him. I feel His good pleasure as well. To God be the Glory. I type this from the frozen Arctic Ocean beach front."

Made it back to Inuvik by the time I normally go to bed. Campground in town was full. All the restaurants were closed. I got gas and went to Jak Territorial Park. I just set up camp, cooked dinner and went and took a hot shower. I typed this and it is 11:57 pm. Of course it's still full daylight. 24-hour light here now.

Have to go back to town tomorrow to get more Canadian cash. That is all the campgrounds will take. I need to pick up a couple other items as well.

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View from Mackenzie River Ferry early morning.

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Mud on a smooth metal ferry deck. I had trouble walking on this. The approach and exit were downright scary. Headlight mucked again.

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Thousands of small frozen lakes dotted every mile of the route from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk. Nothing grows here more than a few inches high. The tundra compressed slightly under your feet as you walked. It was like walking on a sponge. Deep, loose gravel road bed was typical the entire way.

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New sign built for travelers arriving from the south by road for the first time this year.

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Frozen Arctic Ocean from down town.

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Arctic Ocean water front real estate. This is a harsh place to live. There is not an official camp ground here yet, although there was point at the end of the road where a few RVs were parked, albeit illegitimately I suppose. There was no hotel or restaurant in town yet either. There are almost no businesses.

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Parked on the shore of the frozen Arctic Ocean. I sat on the bench (obscured from view behind the bike) and sent messages until my fingers would not work anymore. Headlight mucked up again.

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This photo was taken at Jak Territorial Park sometime around midnight after I got a shower. Cleared that head light again.
 
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A small piece of scotch tape over the mic on the camera can help with wind noise but still allows most other sounds you want to get recorded.
 
A small piece of scotch tape over the mic on the camera can help with wind noise but still allows most other sounds you want to get recorded.
Was think the same thing but with blue painters tape for off and on use. :thumb:
 
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I just like saying tuck toya atuck. Midnight sun for sure. Amazing pics. You didnt want to camp there? Was it too windy/cold? or were you concerned someone would run you off. (Thats probably what I would think). I guess i Didnt think about polar bears.
 
I just like saying tuck toya atuck. Midnight sun for sure. Amazing pics. You didnt want to camp there? Was it too windy/cold? or were you concerned someone would run you off. (Thats probably what I would think). I guess i Didnt think about polar bears.
I am not too sure about my phonetic ability but I will try. I went into this using the pronunciation that you describe. It seemed intuitive. I was corrected a couple times. So the locals say: 'tuck tee yuk tuck" with emphasis on the yuk. You will hear it on the video. I agree, I just like saying the word.

There was not really a campground or even a place to park in Tuktoyaktuk except for a small barren area on the point at the end of the road. There were a few RVs there and they all were running generators continuously. The road up from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk does not have any place to pull off. The road way is all hauled in build up and several feet thick (they said 12ft average buildup) almost everywhere. The tundra was too soft to support the bike without deep ruts and possibly getting stuck. Reentry to the roadway would have been up very steep loose gravel. I would have had to park on the edge of the road and camp on the tundra.
 
June 18, 2018 Monday 06:48 pm

234 miles today. Slept in this morning a bit. Had to go back to Inuvik to get some more Canadian currency.

Decided to stop at a decent time so I got a campsite at Eagle Plains. Not my favorite place. Shower might have been the worst I ever encountered. Shower pan drain was clogged. No curtain or door. Then they wanted to charge me $5 for the Wi-Fi password. There was weirdness in the restaurant/bar. Waited a really long time for someone to bring me a menu. Waited even longer for them to take my order. Only had burgers and fries or salad. After I finished my meal I discovered there was another menu with real food on it. Ordered a glass of wine. They drew it from a box. (okay, I have been drinking wine from those little boxes that travel well on the bike. It is okay. I just did not expect that in a restaurant. It is a very remote restaurant.) The worst of all, the attendant at the gas pumps told me they have pie...they had none.

The good news is, the weather was mostly clear and warm all day. First time I have been warm in a few days. I say that as I listen to gentile rain begin to fall on the tent. The mud road from a couple days ago was hard packed and fast today.

Stopping early today all fit my reformulated plan for tomorrow. I have decided to go back to Dawson City and try to change the oil in the bike. I think I will have a better chance finding closer to correct oil in Dawson City plus I can use the car wash again there as well. There was no sense pushing on today when I could break it up into more equal days.

Met a large group of riders today at the McKenzie Ferry. They were from Prince George. We leap-frogged all day and they all stopped here at Eagle Plains for the night also.

Shared a table at dinner with Barry and Diane, a couple from Edmonton. He had recently retired from the phone company. Saw the young couple with the baby again at Jak Campground again this morning.

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These are the mud roads from a couple days early that provided such a challenged to me. Now hard packed and mostly smooth, I was able to pass at speed.

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June 19, 2018 Tuesday 09:51 pm
716 Klondike Hwy, Dawson, YT Y0B 1G0, Canada | 75°F

252 easy miles today. Got a nice early start and rode into Dawson City and camped at the same campground where I did the tires. Perfect, warm weather today. The mud section that had given me so much trouble on the way up was now hard packed and could be ridden fast.

I took a bunch of videos. I do hope most of them are good. At one point I noticed the lens was covered with bugs.

Stopped along the way to fill my tank from the can I carried. Two guys stopped and we talked for a long while. Jack, from Alabama, has a son in Dallas. He had just retired from NASA. The guy with him, Steve, had retired from Northrup Grumman. They were very inquisitive about my adventure.

Today was laundry day. Yay, I have all clean clothes... for today anyway.

Today was also bike maintenance day. I spent nine loonies at the car wash. I even washed the front of my pants at the car wash. The crud built up from the Dempster was unbelievable.

I went to the NAPA auto parts store and picked up oil and a roll of blue shop towels. The closest I could find was Shell motorcycle, 4t, full synthetic, 15w-50. I also got an empty, plastic, diesel DEF jug from the trash can there. I cut the side out of it to catch my oil. I asked the guy what the local rules were about waste oil and if they would take it. He said "oh yes, bring it back, the guys in the shop burn it in their heaters." Recycling on a grass roots level. For my records later the odometer reads 7437. The trip odometer is at 6201.

After these chores I took a shower and went down town. I picked up a few food items at the general store.

I went to Klondike Kate's for a celebration meal. It was pricey but very good. I had barbecued ribs, rice, veggies and grilled cornbread. Had a nice glass of Malbec and finished off with apple pie and ice cream.

It was sunny and warm. I hung out and talked with some of the other riders camped near me. Saw the young couple with the baby again. Interesting social dynamic formed with the Tuktoyaktuk travelers. I now recognize and speak with a couple dozen folks I didn't know a week ago. Our paths continue to cross. Everyone ends up in the same place because there are not many places.

I got to talk with Sharon on the phone tonight also.

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June 20, 2018 Wednesday 08:36 pm
Ross River, YT Y0B 1S0, Canada | 82°F

370 miles today. Started down the Campbell Highway. Beautifully glorious day with warm temps and sunny skies.

Saw an arctic fox near Carmacks. I think I got it on video. Also video of a black bear and two cubs. The cubs were really cute. I could hear Sharon proclaiming "Oh honey, I want one."

Today was all about these reddish purple flowers that I assume are some kind of Fireweed. They lined the highway all day today, much like the bluebonnets in Texas in the spring. They were spectacular.

I liked the Campbell Highway best of the northern remote roads. I nearly had it all to myself. Almost no trucks and very few cars or campers. The road wound around the Yukon and Pelly River bluffs often providing breathtaking views.

I did have to go 10km off the highway into Faro to get gas. When I got there I was greeted by a sign on the card lock stating they would be back at 3:00pm. I had to wait about 15 minutes. I had no option. It was okay. I met a local young man with really bad teeth. Said his name was Nigel. He was quite enamored with the Husqvarna. He asked questions nonstop till the attendant returned.

I am at the best camp spot of the trip so far. Lapie Canyon on the Lapie River. My tent is 30 feet from the roaring rapids created as the river funnels into the rock fissures of the narrow canyon walls. It is violent and calming at the same time. I would not want to be in the water here. I dipped my toes. It was really cold. Just as well. It was all too turbulent to even consider getting in.

I started this day in the scriptures, as is my habit, and words from the Psalms took me back to conversation from last night. I spoke with a man from Ontario who had a GSA 1200 loaded to the max. He spoke broken French English. He did, however, seem to be fluent in the use of the "f" word and peppered his conversation with it repeatedly. I suspect he was an okay sort of fellow, just a little crude.

We chatted about the benefits of his motorcycle versus the benefits of a lighter one like mine. He then began to relate stories from his trip up the Dempster. He was apparently right behind me and encountered the same mud that I did. He told about entering the mud at too high of speed, sending him and the big bike into an out of control right to left weave that increased with each oscillation. He said he counted six right to lefts and was certain he was losing it.

Then he said, "I don't know if the bike just pulled out of it but if you ask me I was lifted up." He did not mention God but he implied it clearly. He said he cried. I suspect this man was not a regular regarder of God and I doubt he knew Him intimately. On that day, in the face of catastrophe, he acknowledged God. I told him that none of us had arrived at this place without the favor of God. He agreed and moved on to the next story.

All of this came flooding back when I read Psalm 108:13 "With God we will perform valiantly." How true indeed. As I read on I came to 109: 26-28 'Help me, Lord my God; save me according to Your faithful love so they may know that this is Your hand and that you, Lord, have done it. Though they curse, you will bless. When they rise up, they will be put the same, but Your servant will rejoice."

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I camped 30 feet from this roaring river rapids.

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This little guy really put up a fuss at me. He chirped and barked at me the whole time I set up my camp.

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Just like being on a trip, the sad part is that the report will end before long... :zen:
 
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