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Fuel pump fix.

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Bike feals like it running out of fuel .(it is ).Mine would not accellerate past
80 kph .Next day fine .Next day no good .After cleaning the internal mesh
( tea bag filter has NOT been changed )it has been fine .(15,ooo since 1st mesh clean )
I now clean it every big service and swill out tank .
 
Stretch30 said:
Okay, so I ended up replacing the whole assembly, $385.00:eek2: The good news is that when I put the new assembly in it started up right away. I never good find a matching fuel pump that would have fit.
Click to expand...

Mileage!? Did you have a piece of tree in your tank too!? :trust:
 
Well I only had about 3K miles on the bike, but unfortunately it had not been run for about 7 months when I found it was not working. I had used Sta-Bil in the tank before going and had run it for a bit after adding it too the tank. My symptoms were, the engine would turn over with the starter, but not start, it would start when spraying starting fluid in the airbox.

I would have to take a fuel pump into a shop and compare them in the actual mount to make sure the connections line up.
 
Just an FYI.......

A friend of mine was working on another friend's Ducati Monster. After sitting for a few years and not being used (OMG what a shame) they tried running it. After that failed they discovered that the fuel pump was totally clogged and everything in the tank was crap.

Upon calling Ducati, it was a few months of lead time and $260. He found the Bosch part number on the pump and started searching. He found a "used on" list for that pump and noticed Jeep Cherokee (go figure). He called AutoZone and found it for $60. A $200 Markup for Ducati. Unbelievable!!!!

So, now his Italian baby has a Jeep fuel pump and is running like new again.

Meaning, "sometimes" with a little creative searching we can find exact parts for tons less. Of course now his Ducati Monster can go off road and climb rocks and stuff.........
 
I just pulled my fuel pump out again and inspected the fine mesh screen in the bottom section that contains the pressure regulator, and if you look in the big hole on the bottom of that section, where the internal steel tubing and o-ring fits into, you can see a good portion of that screen.

Mine still looks perfectly clean, but I rinsed the screen out first with some fuel injector cleaner. then I blew it out through the bottom hole, which is opposite the direction of the gas flow with my air gun.

I cleaned the fuel strainer the last time I had it out, but now with close to 41k on it, and it not looking all that clean, I ordered up a new one today, and should have it by Friday. I also installed new plugs. :rider:
 
My bike was in storage over the winter months, had it out for its second ride last weekend, and it definitely felt like it was running out of fuel during the ride, however the fuel gauge was showing one bar, 'w the fuel indicator blinking. When I pulled up to a gas station and opened up the tank, I could see fuel inside..... its got me worried a bit.

The bike had a strange vibration for a bit, then when opening up the throttle it felt like it was bogging and running on 2 cylinders (I was sure I was running out of fuel and would have to push, luckily there was a station about a block away)

Once I topped it off, it ran 100% again, full power no issues.

The fuel that was in there was about 6 months old, with lots of stabil etc in it... I thought maybe it was "bad gas" and its ok now?....

Maybe its worth it to pull the fuel pump?
Is the job difficult to do?
Are there any parts/gaskets etc that must be changed out every time the pump is pulled?
Any issues with leaks afterward? (Last Fi bike I pulled the fuel pump out of, my old TLS, you had to change the fuel tank gasket every time you disassembled the unit, or it would leak)

EF
 
Easy job, no springs or ball bearing .:eek2:
No new parts needed except new tea bag filter if you like .
 
Ok,
I'll pull that fuel pump assembly this weekend and see whats going on in there.
Thx for the info & pics!

EF
 
I tried to find the part number used on something else, but never could find a Mitsubishi UC-T35 C8908. That is what was stenciled on the bottom of the fuel pump. If you put in the numbers there are plenty of google hits, but hard to find the right part in that sea of information.

Pulling the whole assembly apart is really easy, the most difficult part is pulling the tank and that isn't hard. No seals required for re-assembly.
 
I've always run some sort of good quality fuel injector cleaner every 3000 miles through both my bikes and vehicles, which helps to keep your injectors cleaned out, as well as your fuel pump. That reminds me that I need to pick up a can of Sea Foam today.
 
whitesands said:
That seems like a good idea...No potential issues running the stuff ?
Click to expand...

No issues at all with running any type of good fuel system/injector cleaner through your fuel system, as its no differant than the fuel injection system on a car, and I have been adding fuel injector cleaner to a tank of gas every 3000 miles on all my vehicles.
 
Today my bike did the on throttle hesitation thing again (yesterday it ran just fine!) for a brief minute today it seemed like it was almost running out of fuel then it ran fine, it has at least 1/2 a tank of fresh fuel, with injector cleaner in there... it can't be bad fuel, or running out...

I pulled the fuel pump out, very straight forward process, and I'm almost done (just hopped inside to double check the diagram on how it goes back together! doh!)

From the looks of it, there is a fairly big strainer inside the plastic housing, and it appears to be clean. I blew through it with an air compressor, ran some brake clean through it, blew it out again. No gunk or other stuff in there....

I also cleaned up the bottom strainer (it looks quite dirty, wish I had a replacement unit, but for now a cleaning will have to do)

This has be worried a bit, if this strange, intermittent hesitation does not go away, maybe I need a fuel pump? :argh:

EF
 
EF,

Does this mainly occur at low RPM? even after a pump replacement I still have what appears to be fuel starvation at low RPM (typically only in 4th gear). I am not sure what causes this, but am wondering if the evap cannister and plumbing have anything to do with it.
 
Ok, bike is back together, it seems to be running just fine, did a short ride on it, and it appeared to have full power at all times. Will ride it later this week (longer rides, and going to run fuel low again) will report then.

Stretch30,
I did not notice what gear I was in when it did it earlier today, but during a previous ride, it did it in 6th gear, I was cruising.
All of my emissions systems have been removed, the bike never had a evap canister, its PAIR system is gone, as well as the o2 sensor and the catalytic converter both removed. I also have a TRE installed, so the bikes ECU thinks its in 5th gear all the time (except in neutral, it then is set to and indicates neutral)

The bottom strainer in my bike did not look very healthy, and I will replace it fairly soon.

EF
 
If I recall correctly the strainer looks dirty even when its not as it gets discolored from the fuel. How many miles on the bike? If over 20k I'd get a new strainer! ;)
 
Hello all! I just bought a 2007 Bandit 1250s with 1750 miles on it. It was in storage for 3 years and i'm having the same problem as Tasi. Idles fine. Cleaned tank & pump, but still collecting mung in the strainer/tea bag filter. Tank is still pretty rusty. How do you determine if the tank is TOO rusty?
 
The Fuel tank should have absolutely NO RUST at all.
Zero rust tolerance.

Any rust will have extreme detrimental effects on the fuel pump, filters, strainers, carbs, injectors etc.. The small rust particles are the worst, they will get past filters and strainers and collect in all the hard to get to areas. I have had to overhaul more than one carburetor because of rust in the fuel tank.

I would strongly suggest taking the tank off, cleaning it, then installing a liner.
Kreem is an excellent product for this.

I suggest doing the whole procedure, buy the Kreem kit, use the rust remover, then the tank dryer/degreaser/cleaner, then the liner.

EF
 
I should also mention, that once the liner is installed, that tank will never have rust problems again, that stuff is quite good.

EF
 
Thanks for the info. I'm assuming that the fuel level sending unit in the tank needs to be removed before the Kreem is applied?
 
Yes, the fuel tank must be empty for this procedure.
The rust remover stuff is quite strong (may damage electronics and sensors etc), plus the liner would coat everything left inside rendering it inoperative.

It helps to be quite thorough during each step of the procedure. Take your time, follow the instructions and you will have a nice healthy rust free tank.

EF
 
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