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Goldwing problem

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Tabasco

Tabasco

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Joined
Dec 3, 2006
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Location
Houston (Heights)
First Name
Larry
Last Name
Burleson
Keep my 2016 F6B with 12k near Lake Livingston. Went to bring it back today and it would not start. Keep it on a Battery Tender so battery was fine but she turned over and over without a hint of firing. Last time I rode was into Coldsprings to get it inspected about 3 weeks ago, about a 15 mile round trip. Pulled out the manual, it said check main fuses and they were ok. 3/4 tank of gas. I’m old and forgetful and have had over 30 motorcycles and kept staring at it thinking what am I doing wrong. Tried starting it throughout the day but nothing. Any ideas what could go wrong just sitting in the garage after my last ride?
 
Check kill switch and kickstand switch but if they were bad it probably wouldn't turn over.
Good luck. You will get it solved. Can you hear fuel pump pumping up when you turn key on?
 
When the kill switch is on it will not even turn over. Did also mess with the kickstand, unplugged the electrical plug going to the stand, I was thinking I disabled it. Not sure on the fuel pump, I’m back in Houston now, the wife had to come up and get me. Thanks
 
Tabasco said:
When the kill switch is on it will not even turn over. Did also mess with the kickstand, unplugged the electrical plug going to the stand, I was thinking I disabled it. Not sure on the fuel pump, I’m back in Houston now, the wife had to come up and get me. Thanks
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Got to be something simple on a bike that new and quality.
 
Hoping so. I’m on the F6B forum also and digging thru some of their threads findings all kind of weird things like crankshaft position sensors going bad.
 
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Just reaching here, but is it possible the battery tender did not float charge properly and after sitting for 3 weeks the battery does not have enough juice to start the bike?
 
Are you getting an engine light flash code? One long and 9 short? Our F6B suddenly wouldn’t start one day after sitting for just 2 days. Our pulse generator / crankshaft position sensor had gone bad. Towed the bike to Honda and unloaded it. **** thing fired right up. I had them replace the pulse generator anyway.

If that’s what it is AND your bike has ABS, then it will require a chunk of shop time. Our 2013 does not have ABS, so I supposedly could have fixed it by removing the upper and lower cowlings and the engine cover to get to the sensor. I was not in the mood for “exploratory surgery”, so I hit the bullet and forked over the cash to have Honda do it.
 
Anything over 5 years old the vacume operated gas valve has probably failed , all the vacume hoses rotted out on my Honda at around 5 years . I disabled the valve by taking it apart and removing the spring . It still functioned manually and was trouble free the rest of the time I owned it .
 
I doubt there's a gas valve on an F6B since it's injected.
 
TX_F2 said:
Just reaching here, but is it possible the battery tender did not float charge properly and after sitting for 3 weeks the battery does not have enough juice to start the bike?
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Funny you mention that. When I first disconnected the tender I didn’t notice anything but after cranking awhile I plugged it back in for a short time and when I unplugged it again to try it again I noticed the plug felt warm. I’ve been using tenders for years but that’s the first time I ever noticed a warm plug. I left it unplugged when the wife came to pick me up.
 
Head Case said:
Are you getting an engine light flash code? One long and 9 short? Our F6B suddenly wouldn’t start one day after sitting for just 2 days. Our pulse generator / crankshaft position sensor had gone bad. Towed the bike to Honda and unloaded it. **** thing fired right up. I had them replace the pulse generator anyway.

If that’s what it is AND your bike has ABS, then it will require a chunk of shop time. Our 2013 does not have ABS, so I supposedly could have fixed it by removing the upper and lower cowlings and the engine cover to get to the sensor. I was not in the mood for “exploratory surgery”, so I hit the bullet and forked over the cash to have Honda do it.
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I don’t have abs but I’m about to head back up there to dig a little further. Just curious what dealer you used to have it done. I’ve hardly ever used a dealer but might have to on this one. Looking on the internet found a guy on one of the Wing forums that said if when cranking the battery drops to 10.1 volts are less it will never crank.
 
It's odd that the motor turned over fine but didn't fire. If it hadn't cranked, is say bad battery, but dude it is cranking it makes me wonder if it's the fuel pump, especially if it can't be heard before cranking. You could also pull a spark plug and hold it near the head to see if it sparks while cranking. That at least confirms spark.
 
Tabasco said:
I don’t have abs but I’m about to head back up there to dig a little further. Just curious what dealer you used to have it done. I’ve hardly ever used a dealer but might have to on this one. Looking on the internet found a guy on one of the Wing forums that said if when cranking the battery drops to 10.1 volts are less it will never crank.
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I use Honda of Houston at 290/Huffmeister. In my limited experience they do good work, but they are not cheap.

For my problem, the lights and gauges and fuel pump and everything would work, but it would not crank over. Definitely worth trying to charge the battery or jump start the bike, because if that doesn’t work it just gets more expensive from there. Glad to help if you get an engine light code.
 
If the battery is over a few years old, get a new one. They can still be bad and have over 12 volts. Some places can do a load test on them. Good luck to you , keep us posted.
 
Well, drove back up here to do some testing, it’s been driving me crazy. Grabbed my voltmeter and put it on the battery, it had about 13.1 volts, turned the key on and headlights and the rest of the electrical dropped it to 12.5 then hit the starter. It dropped to 8.7 then started right up. 😳 Thought it wasn’t supposed to crank below 10.1 volts. This is going to make me a head case Head Case. Never had a battery problem where it would turn over so strongly without cranking like it was doing yesterday. They usually just crap out not even turn over. This was a new 2016 left over that I bought in September of 2017 in Tucson Arizona when the wife and I drove out to U of H football game right after Hurricane Harvey. Rode it home from there. Battery is 5 years old at least so I’m going to start there and cross my fingers. Got a feeling the crankshaft position sensor may rear its ugly head while out on the rode some day. 🤬
 
Tabasco said:
Well, drove back up here to do some testing, it’s been driving me crazy. Grabbed my voltmeter and put it on the battery, it had about 13.1 volts, turned the key on and headlights and the rest of the electrical dropped it to 12.5 then hit the starter. It dropped to 8.7 then started right up. 😳 Thought it wasn’t supposed to crank below 10.1 volts. This is going to make me a head case Head Case. Never had a battery problem where it would turn over so strongly without cranking like it was doing yesterday. They usually just crap out not even turn over. This was a new 2016 left over that I bought in September of 2017 in Tucson Arizona when the wife and I drove out to U of H football game right after Hurricane Harvey. Rode it home from there. Battery is 5 years old at least so I’m going to start there and cross my fingers. Got a feeling the crankshaft position sensor may rear its ugly head while out on the rode some day. 🤬
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Glad it cranked over!!!! Yes get a new battery just in case, and take her for a celebration ride.
 
Hondas (most of them anyway) require a higher voltage to fire the ignition than to turn over the engine. Frequently the first sign of a bad battery is that it won't start while cranking but will start when the button is released. That release allows enough extra voltage to fire the ignition. EASY to test by simply jumping it from a car battery.
 
Valker said:
Hondas (most of them anyway) require a higher voltage to fire the ignition than to turn over the engine. Frequently the first sign of a bad battery is that it won't start while cranking but will start when the button is released. That release allows enough extra voltage to fire the ignition. EASY to test by simply jumping it from a car battery.
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Thanks, that was actually the first thing I was going to do after the volt test, had a boat battery within reach but when she cranked I was literally in shock.
 
Left running lights on overnight they were still on in am. Bike would not crank. New battery and off it went.
 
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