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When I'm done it's going to be a nice ride.
 
There is a Dilworth in Gonzales County .
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Oh and it's a LOT closer than 17 minutes if I'm on my XR. LOL.
 
Well, all i can say is...que siempre han existido y siempre existirán.

But i am posting from Zimapan, MX
 
RollingJ said:
Oh my.

Wrist pin bearing slap. It's clattering in huge way. Not good. Need to replace the con rod.

At this point I'm invested. I'm splitting the cases. At least I get to buy a few new tools.

Worst case is a new crank, piston and cylinder. Worst worst case is I find something(s) else.
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Make sure you idle is at least 1500rpm-1600rpm or you auto decomp will still be engaged and will sound like a bag of rocks.

I would also recheck timing marks after motor has been turned over.
 
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Decomp was smooth on the cam, I doubt that's it. It rattles all through the rev range, and pulls strong on the road. This is my first rfs build but not my first motor, I'd lay good money that the timing is right, but I've lost a bet or two in my day.

I'm absolutely certain the main problem is my wrist pin bearing. I should not have closed it up when I did, but now I have the go ahead for a full rebuild.

This will be my only bike until the wife finishes her master's, and that might take a minute.
 
RollingJ said:
Decomp was smooth on the cam, I doubt that's it. It rattles all through the rev range, and pulls strong on the road. This is my first rfs build but not my first motor, I'd lay good money that the timing is right, but I've lost a bet or two in my day.

I'm absolutely certain the main problem is my wrist pin bearing. I should not have closed it up when I did, but now I have the go ahead for a full rebuild.

This will be my only bike until the wife finishes her master's, and that might take a minute.
Click to expand...

I have no doubt that you are on the right track, just throwing the easy stuff out. I know I have overlooked simple things in the past.

Let us know what you find.
 
I hear you, Gary. I'm certainly going to turn the idle it up to see if that helps. It's not like I want to replace/rebuild the crank, but I'm thinking it will be in my future.
 
Pulled the engine tonight.

Intake valve locknuts were missing from the adjustment shafts. I'm sure they rattled off. Found one in the head, the other on the pickup coil. This thing sounded horrid. I'm lucky nothing went boom.

Either I don't know what I'm doing, which is a possibility, or timing of the cam gear was 180 off. The cam lobes were up, acctuating the valves, and the mark on the cam gear was even with the right side of the case, which should be tdc like the book says and the lobes should be down, but this is how it was was when I first pulled it apart. For now, the lobes are down on the cam and the mark was even with the left side of the case. I'm guessing that this bike has a history, and I'll end up spinning the cam gear. We'll see what happens tomorrow. lol.
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RollingJ said:
Pulled the engine tonight.

Intake valve locknuts were missing from the adjustment shafts. I'm sure they rattled off. Found one in the head, the other on the pickup coil. This thing sounded horrid. I'm lucky nothing went boom...
Click to expand...

I've known of that happening, not sure how common though. Wrench turner I trust almost as much as you Joel did a valve adjustment and shortly after starting the bike some locknuts went AWOL. Caused some damage, he replaced/repaired all, bike ran fine again and he sold it. 2007 450 EXC
 
Frankly, I'm amazed it ran. I'm going to double check everything before I put the engine back in the frame. If I don't have to split the cases I will call this one a victory.
 
RollingJ said:
Frankly, I'm amazed it ran. I'm going to double check everything before I put the engine back in the frame. If I don't have to split the cases I will call this one a victory.
Click to expand...

Hopefully for the war not just another battle.
 
RollingJ said:
Pulled the engine tonight.

Intake valve locknuts were missing from the adjustment shafts. I'm sure they rattled off. Found one in the head, the other on the pickup coil. This thing sounded horrid. I'm lucky nothing went boom.

Either I don't know what I'm doing, which is a possibility, or timing of the cam gear was 180 off. The cam lobes were up, acctuating the valves, and the mark on the cam gear was even with the right side of the case, which should be tdc like the book says and the lobes should be down, but this is how it was was when I first pulled it apart. For now, the lobes are down on the cam and the mark was even with the left side of the case. I'm guessing that this bike has a history, and I'll end up spinning the cam gear. We'll see what happens tomorrow. lol.
a50f66f80c692ec00b7274f91c415174.jpg
Click to expand...

Wow, now that you mention it back around the 100 hr or so mark I had the same thing happen to me with one nut. I was riding in a creek bed and a friends bike had issues. We were on our way back to camp to get a tow rope. My bike's sound changed after jumping into the creek where the trail had exited it and returned. It was making a **** of a racket and expensive sounding noises. :eek2: I shut it off and restarted once with the guy I was riding with listening. We decided since the creek bed was wide enough of for a truck we would just load both bikes up.

I dropped it off at the local dealer. $150 dollars later the lead tech told me to come in. He said to use loctite on the nuts and handed me one that was a bit scraped up and told me to buy a loto ticket because I was super lucky. It was flung off and found its way down the timing chain slot and was stuck to the magnets mag into. I search around KTMtalk and had not heard of this happening to anyone else. Just counted it odd and my error not getting it tight enough that it backed up. I also counted myself lucky that it didn't get caught in the cam chain or anything else and that magnet caught it before it got ugly. The mechanic replaced it with a new bolt with loctite. I made sure to put a dab on them from then on. No more issues. You live and you learn. Sometimes I do learn the hard way.

Also, if you have not seen it there is a video out there that shows you a super quick way to adjust the valves even if your not at TDC.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWS9RuEQzc8"]KTM RFS Valve Adjustment - YouTube[/ame]

I have adjusted my old DR350 180 out and my gosh did it make some serious noise. I shut it off and rechecked it. :giveup:
 
Been offline for a few days. I am glad you found it.
 
Took a ride 15 min ride. Pulled hard on the throttle but mid range missed. Decel pop. Sounded horrid at the end. Put it in the shed for a week so I didn't freak out.

Stripped it back down today. I'm much faster at it at this point.

I was planning on going all the way through the carb, but that can wait.

Intake rocker threads are toast on the right side valve adjuster. Valve adjuster is all jacked up. Nut totally stripped and sitting in the valley. It was stripped as well.

Intake valve rocker is on order.
 
RollingJ said:
Took a ride 15 min ride. Pulled hard on the throttle but mid range missed. Decel pop. Sounded horrid at the end. Put it in the shed for a week so I didn't freak out.

Stripped it back down today. I'm much faster at it at this point.

I was planning on going all the way through the carb, but that can wait.

Intake rocker threads are toast on the right side valve adjuster. Valve adjuster is all jacked up. Nut totally stripped and sitting in the valley. It was stripped as well.

Intake valve rocker is on order.
Click to expand...
I'll clean the carb while waiting on parts...
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A little JB Weld and it'll be good as new. :D
 
RollingJ
Is everything fixed and ready to roll.
You have a month until a possible ET750 two day ride.
 
Its a KTM just get use to something breaking. It will be something else the next time you crank it. It KEEPS TAKING MONEY.:lol2:
 
I'm getting closer. The intake rocker and a few other parts cam in today. I might get it back together this weekend.
 
It's all together, save for blinkers. New grips and switchgear, cut valve seats, new rocker arm, all new ss valves adjusted and locktite applied, no leaks of oil, water, or air. Clarke tank had a leak at an upper shroud mount so I went back to the stock tank. Still needs a better battery so I don't have to kick it as much...

I insured it this morning before I transferred the title and got the plate. I rode it to work!
 
Glad you are back on two wheels Joel. As we discussed, you always have a place you can ride to.
 
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