• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

Hail’s KTM 790 Farkle Thread

Hail,
I notice the picture you showed doesn't appear to be a camel clutch arm. I think I would get the Camel as I've heard of problems with the non brand name ones because they tend to slip which keeps the clutch from engaging. This is bad juju because you can quickly burn up your clutch. Camel even had issues with some of the first generation clutch arms slipping. If I installed another one, I think I would put some blue loctite between the clutch arm and the clutch shaft (or whatever the technical name is). You have to make sure there is clearance between the tank and arm because the arm will rest against the fuel tank and rub. This part is a little tricky trying to get the proper adjustment with good engagement.

You made me paranoid enough that I went ahead and ordered the Camel one.
 
I have had some difficulties after all my upgrades. After de-cat and Rottweiller canister removal I need to have a dongle connected where the O2 sensor was. I keep getting a check engine light after 20-30 minutes of riding with the Rotweiler dongle then it stops working and throws a check engine light. Put in a new dongle and it works for a while then again I get the check engine light and the dongle will never work again.

Now the only real problem with this is that my cruise control wont work while the check engine light is on. I really need cruise control due to shoulder, elbow and wrist pain occasionally. Especially for long trips.

Anyone else experience this after canister removal using the Rottweiler dongle?
 
Last edited:
I’ve done decat but not canister removal. Was this necessary with their intake or just a personal choice? No check engine lights our other issues with mine since the decat.
 
I have had some difficulties after all my upgrades. After de-cat and Rottweiller canister removal I need to have a dongle connected where the O2 sensor was. I keep getting a check engine light after 20-30 minutes of riding with the Rotweiler dongle then it stops working and throws a check engine light. Put in a new dongle and it works for a while then again I get the check engone light and the dongle will never work again.

Now the only real problem with this is that my cruise control wont work while the check engine light is on. I really need cruise control due to shoulder, elbow and wrist pain occasionally. Especially for long trips.

Anyone else experience this after canister removal using the Rotweiler dongle?
Exactly why I never did a decat!
 
Leave the evap can on and you don't have this issue.

A little too late. I am confident they will get it worked out. I am not the first to have had all this done. Rotweiler sent a new dongle so I am going to drop it off tomorrow morning to let them finsih it up.
 
Both of the dongles used previously had resistances way lower than they should have been. With Rottweiler’s help we can test resistance before install of the third.
 
I like the Missions for adventure touring. I wanted something more aggressive for what it do closer to home. I really need a second set of rims

My first ever set of Shinko 804/805

4C305A0C-66B0-4F1C-BA7C-921A5C1D4A76.jpeg


0AF05339-58C6-46FE-842E-35EA535A7496.jpeg
 
I've used an 805 on the back of my DR before. Great drive, but a little lacking on lateral traction. I'll be interested to hear how long it lasts.

Never tried the 804. I bought one once and was disappointed with how shallow the tread was compared to the IRC TR8 I usually ran on the DR. Sent it back and got another TR8 instead.
 
They are an old standby for many ADV riders but are a little dated in technology. Let us know how you like them.
 
I am still on my tire quest.
They are an old standby for many ADV riders but are a little dated in technology. Let us know how you like them.
The pattern looks similar to the Pirelli RAlly I used to put on the 1290. I liked those but they are so expensive. The 804/805 should have a little less wear too.

We will see. I remain on my never ending quest to try almost everything.
 
I've used an 805 on the back of my DR before. Great drive, but a little lacking on lateral traction. I'll be interested to hear how long it lasts.

Never tried the 804. I bought one once and was disappointed with how shallow the tread was compared to the IRC TR8 I usually ran on the DR. Sent it back and got another TR8 instead.
I have ran TKC80 on my DRZ for 10 years with no desire to change. I hope I find something unlike just as much on the 790. I still think I just need a second set of runs because this will also be my touring/commuter bike when the 1290 sells.
 
I have ran TKC80 on my DRZ for 10 years with no desire to change. I hope I find something unlike just as much on the 790. I still think I just need a second set of runs because this will also be my touring/commuter bike when the 1290 sells.

That dual purpose bit is why I'm running the Moto GPS set on my Twin. Good enough off pavement, good on pavement, and long life. I can see the desire for two sets of wheels, but it's more effort than I'm interested in changing them regularly.
 
Last edited:
I could justify two wheel sets, one narrower for true BDR Offroad only trips and the factory wheel set with a 50/50 tire for local rides and that’s likely what I’ll end up with if not another bike altogether lol.
 
That dual purpose bit is why I'm running the Moto GPS set on my Twin. Good enough off pavement, good on pavement, and long life. I can see the desire for two sets of wheels, but it's more effort than I'm interested in changing them regularly.
Are you running the GPS on front and rear or just rear?
 
My 805 went flat after 318 miles last Saturday. About 12 miles from home. The last 200 miles of my day was all smooth pavement.
  • Checked the entire tire inch by inch and could not find any holes, punctures or anything obvious penetrating the tire.
  • Used my motopumpz to air it up to about 36psi and waited a few minutes. It was losing pressure fast. After 15 it was completely flat again.
  • I had no water left to pour ofer the tire to try and find the leak. I had a plug kit with me if I could just fine the leak!
  • Called my wife to bring the trailer. Thank goodness I was close. She does not like to be inconvienienced! ;)
  • I throw the bike in the garage as we got home after dark and I was already frustrated.
  • The next morning I went out and aired the tire up. Again to about 35/36 PSI.
  • I poured soapy water over the tire. No bubbles anywhere. The tire was flat again in 15 minutes. What the heck?
  • I went over the tire again inch by inch marking any small damaged spots with a sharpie. Aired it up again and sprayed windex on each spot. No bubble,
  • Still frustrated I air it up to about 60 PSI and again pour soapy water over it. No bubbles.
  • BUT this time it held!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I let air out down to ~34psi and it has held ever since. Anyone ever experience this? It seems like maybe it just wasnt seated well.
 
I’d check your wheel, it’s possible it’s damaged. Lots of reports of the factory wheels getting bent/damaged over time.
 
I have had that happen before, tire seated on the rim and I Had air trapped between tube and tire toke a while to get out and thought I had a flat are your valve core may have not seated correctly and the over pressure may have seated it just watch it, I assume that's on the shinko 804
 
I have had that happen before, tire seated on the rim and I Had air trapped between tube and tire toke a while to get out and thought I had a flat are your valve core may have not seated correctly and the over pressure may have seated it just watch it, I assume that's on the shinko 804

Punctuation, please!
 
Back
Top