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HELP! Electronic Cruise Control

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Jan 21, 2009
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I ordered a Audiovox Electronic Cruise Control CCS100 for my 08 Bandit 1250. Should be here Fri. Possible week end project. Any of you got any helpful tips.
 
Sounds like quiet a project
Does it plug into the factory harness?
Can you get your money back?
Works from what i read like a car/Vacuum
Do you have to use their vac. can?



Universal "Vacuum" control
 
They have other models that work off speed sensor they cost more $ but on 4 cylinders you still need vac. can. Did a lot of research on different models but this is the one they recommend for MC.
ebay store Audio Video 4 Me has a large selection and info.
anyway it will be fun and if it don't work it wont be the first $100 I spent foolishly :scratch:
 
Pete.
I put an audiovox on my ST 1300, I did not need a vaccum can, I just installed a long vaccum line,, Works great, Just take your time...
See if someone else has already done it on a 1250 and have them walk you through it,,
Mike
 
Write up and pictures to follow along with installation we hope ? I had put a simular one on an '86 Ford Ranger with a 4 cyl engine back then from JC Whitney. Was easy and worked really good.
 
One of these is on my wish list , I found an excellent how-to on another forum , I will relocate it and post a link. Vacuum canister was nothing complicated at all, a piece of pvc pipe with a butt cap glued on one end and a cap with a pipe fitting on the other. cheap and easy
 

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Cruise control is on tested and works great :eek2: :rider: :rider: :rider:
I took a lot of pics. I will post a write up with pics. soon.
 
Dang Pete,
That sucks. All I can say is SAVE WORK OFTEN. Don't even ask me how I finally learned this. :lol2: :lol2: :lol2:

Pete
The below was done in MSword then copying and pasting here to see if it would work. That way you can build and save an entry then copy and paste it.

870Suzyand521XTYamaha.jpg


this is a test on building the thread entry in MS Word in the Internet format. Then copying and pasting into a reply on a forum.
 
OK
I wanted Electronic Cruise Control on my Bandit 1250. I saw where other people put them on other bikes so I started shopping. I found a Audiovox CCS100 on EBAY seller audiovideo4me for $94.70. I figure for that price it wouldn't be the first $100 I threw away if it didn't work, so I bought it.
The kit came in about 2 days, it had all kinds of parts to hook up on different vehicles. So this is what I did.
UNDERSTAND THIS IS WHAT I DID TO MY MOTORCYCLE THIS POST IS BY NOMEANS ENTENDED TO BE USED AS INSTRUCTIONS TO PUT CRUISE CONTROL ON YOUR MOTORCYCLE! This Cruise Control is designed for automobiles.
So here I go.
I opened the CC kit took out the instructions and read them, Not much to them. then I took the servo assembly and on the back is a cover, took the cover off to expose the wiring harness connection and programming dip switches. To the left of the switches is a little black tab "jumper" I removed it, this configures the unit to manual transmission. Then I set the dip switches according to the instructions for light vehicle with high horse power.
Switch #1-on, #2-off, #3-off, #4-on, #5-off, #6-off, #7-off
Then I plugged the wiring harness in, and put the cover back on. then I took the long vacuum hose from kit and stuck it on the servo vac port.
Then I had to figure out where I was going to mount this beast. So I took the seat & gas tank off the MC and started looking, I thought I would half to mount it in the left side of the front faring when I noticed the shelf under the Battery box. I thought that looks like it might just work, so I took the battery out removed the cover off the air box removed the air filter and loosened the battery box. Then I removed the mounting bracket from the CC servo assembly, and stuffed the servo assembly. down on to the shelf with the cable coming up over the left side of the air filter box and the wiring and vac line on the right. Then I routed the servo throttle cable over the frame on left side around the front and back along the right side of the MC throttle cable.
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Then I looked down at were I needed to hook this thing up and said to myself boy its tight down their. So I took the fuel injector rail out, took the fuel injectors out and put a peace of elect. Tape over the injector holes to keep trash out. Then I turned the throttle wide open and drilled a small hole 5/16 in the throttle stop tab. After that I took the small throttle wire loop from the CC kit.

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I pushed the loop end threw the hole I drilled in the throttle stop tab fished it around the tab put the ball end threw the loop and pulled it tight .
Then I cut a three bead length off the bead chain and hooked a bead chain coupling to each end , then I cut a peace of ¼“ heat shrink tube just a little bit longer than the chain assembly, then hooked the chain assembly to the bead end of the throttle wire loop, slid the shrink tube over this and hooked the other end to the servo cable squeeze the couplings so they don’t come loose. Then slide the shrink tube back up over the chain assembly and heat each end just enough to keep it from sliding up and down.

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Then I took the parallel throttle cable clamp and clamped the servo cable to the throttle cable right at the bend .

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After that I took the small vacuum T connector from the kit and installed it in the small vacuum line running to the Map Sensor , then I hooked the long vacuum line from servo to the T connector I left this line long so I would not need a vacuum can. Then I put the fuel injectors and injection rail back in.
Ok now I needed to mount the CC control switch I wanted it to be on the handle bars where I could reach it so I needed a bracket. To make the bracket I took the servo bracket I removed, and cut it to fit the back of the switch.

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Then I painted it black.
The control switch needed to be waterproofed so I took the switch apart ,ran a little bit of silicone around the inside front of switch cover then put the rubber switch pad in, then the circuit board, then I put silicone around the edge and put the back back on. on the back of the switch is double back mounting tape I cut a channel wide enough to lay the wires in and stuck it to my mounting plate, then I put silicone around the assembly to sill it.

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Then I mounted the switch.

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Now I needed to wire this thing up so I routed the switch wires to the right side of triple tree. I routed the brown, green, and yellow wire from the servo to the switch wires, then I took the fused wire supplied with the kit and loaded it and the brown green & yellow wires from the servo into the supplied plug. I loaded the red, brown, green and yellow wire from the switch into the other side of the plug. Then I connected the gray wire from the switch to the orange fused wire. I connected the orange fused wire to the red wire from the CC servo.

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I grounded the black wire from the switch to the frame. I connected the red wire from the servo to the black with white tracer at the tail light, hot when ignition is on. I hooked the purple wire from the servo to the white with black tracer wire at the brake light, hot when brake is applied. I hooked the blue wire from servo to the #13 yellow with blue tracer wire on the MC ECM plug that goes to the tach. Ground the black wire from servo to frame. The black & gray combined wire from the servo is not used.

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Then I put the air filter and cover back on, coiled up the exes vacuum line on top of air box, and put tank and seat back on.

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Then I went for test ride.
I turned the CC on got up to 37 mph and pushed the set button it worked.
I pulled the clutch in it disengaged.
I reset the CC then I pressed the front brake it disengaged.
I reset the CC pressed the rear brake it disengaged.
I tested all the controls at different speeds every thing worked so I cruised.
 
Last edited:
Pete,
Where are your photos stored. You will need something like Photobucket or the like where you can post the storage location for your pics to show.

It would look something like this

[IMG...]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m25/achesley1943/DSC00012.jpg[/IMG...]

But without the dots after IMG. I put them so it would not show the picture.
 
my pictures are in the photo gallery on this site but it says their to large
VallenJpegger is a free download and a quick and easy way to downsize your photos. You can do one at a time or the whole bunch together. Also is a good viewer with a slide show. It will change the filename to include the file size ( 600 X 800 ) You can even save your time/date stamp when downsizing. It leaves your original intact.

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Pete,
Just for grins I went into the galley and copied your image data and posted it here to see if it would work. It did.
 
OK
I wanted Electronic Cruise Control on my Bandit 1250. I saw where other people put them on other bikes so I started shopping. I found a Audiovox CCS100 on EBAY seller audiovideo4me for $94.70. I figure for that price it wouldn't be the first $100 I threw away if it didn't work, so I bought it.
The kit came in about 2 days, it had all kinds of parts to hook up on different vehicles. So this is what I did.
UNDERSTAND THIS IS WHAT I DID TO MY MOTORCYCLE THIS POST IS BY NOMEANS ENTENDED TO BE USED AS INSTRUCTIONS TO PUT CRUISE CONTROL ON YOUR MOTORCYCLE! This Cruise Control is designed for automobiles.
So here I go.
I opened the CC kit took out the instructions and read them, Not much to them. then I took the servo assembly and on the back is a cover, took the cover off to expose the wiring harness connection and programming dip switches. To the left of the switches is a little black tab "jumper" I removed it, this configures the unit to manual transmission. Then I set the dip switches according to the instructions for light vehicle with high horse power.
Switch #1-on, #2-off, #3-off, #4-on, #5-off, #6-off, #7-off
Then I plugged the wiring harness in, and put the cover back on. then I took the long vacuum hose from kit and stuck it on the servo vac port.
Then I had to figure out where I was going to mount this beast. So I took the seat & gas tank off the MC and started looking, I thought I would half to mount it in the left side of the front faring when I noticed the shelf under the Battery box. I thought that looks like it might just work, so I took the battery out removed the cover off the air box removed the air filter and loosened the battery box. Then I removed the mounting bracket from the CC servo assembly, and stuffed the servo assembly. down on to the shelf with the cable coming up over the left side of the air filter box and the wiring and vac line on the right. Then I routed the servo throttle cable over the frame on left side around the front and back along the right side of the MC throttle cable.





[img.]http://www.twtex.com/photopost/data/500/medium/008.JPG[/img]

008.JPG


I see your photo sizes are not that big at all Pete. Are you setting them up as such?
 
Soon came slow :mrgreen: I guess I am not to computer savy :lol2: But if you check out post #13 it's finished :clap:
The wire connections are temp. I am going to solder them in.
 
Thanks for all the work you did in getting this picture report to us. Will make it a lot easier for anyone wanting to take on this project in the future.
 
Just to continue this thread a little longer. I have the ABS model of the Bandit and that lovely space under the battery was unfortunately filled with the ABS system. Having followed Pete's excellent pictures and write up to the letter, I only discovoured this when I was now finally ready to mount the hardware onto/into the bike. (I have done the switch sealing and made the bracket.)

Luckily I did not throw away the curved part of the bracket that goes on the module. So I am reattaching it and using one of the many brackets in the kit, will attach the bracket to the inside of the RHS of the fairing. Then I will loop the cable around the front and attach it as per Pete's notes.

I bought the kit from Murphs and it came with the vaccum canister so I will probably now just attach it as well, just to make sure that I have enough vaccum.

Hope this helps those with ABS models.
 
Thank you for sharing your project. Nice modification. Money well spent. I will soon tackle this job on my R1200GS. Now go and enjoy "the fruits of your labor." Hardy
 
Now a little help. Got up this morning keen to complete the fitment. Problem.
I tried to remove the injector rail. It is held in with a number of phillips head screws, but trying to get any purchase or down force on the srew driver is impossible due to the bike frame cross member etc. I removed the air box thinking this would help but no luck. Even the outside two screws which hold a cover plate are impossible to shift (must be held in with locktight) Is there a special tool I should be using?
 
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