Building A XR650l Engine
EDIT: July 2017. Photobucket changed their policy about third party posting and I lost all of the pictures in this thread. I ended up signing up with...
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This is Steve
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www.advrider.com
This is Steve
Oops same thing sorry
Yep, that's him.
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Not sure where to post this but thought I would through it out there.
Motorcycle Parts Seller BikeBandit Has Stolen $646,000 of Customers' Money and Disappeared, Says Bankruptcy Trustee
jalopnik.com
Motorcycle Parts Seller BikeBandit Has Stolen $646,000 of Customers' Money and Disappeared, Says Bankruptcy Trustee
Motorcycle Parts Seller BikeBandit Has Stolen $646,000 of Customers' Money and Disappeared, Says Bankruptcy Trustee
The online parts seller declared bankruptcy in February, but the website stayed up, leading thousands of customers to pay for orders they would never receive.
jalopnik.com
Jeff S
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OK friends, I need mechanical diagnostics help. Again...
I had the left crankcase over off the bike, which requires taking off the starter gear cover, and have also done a valve check. I'm certain that somewhere in this process, I manually cranked the engine backwards - clockwise. The service manual says "don't rotate clockwise" - but oops. I did. I think this somehow affects the auto-decompression?
The problem I'm facing is that, now fully re-assembled, when I push the starter button - it just goes "click" - as if the battery is dead and doesn't have the juice to make the compression stroke.
I can turn the engine over by hand with what seems like normal compression resistance. Battery is fully charged and starter spins like I'd expect if I remove one of the starter gears.
So: does it seem plausible that rotating the engine backwards at some point got this into a state that has defeated the auto-decompression valve? If auto-decompression IS broken - would the engine just not turn over with the starter motor at all? I thought some folks remove this auto-decompression stuff entirely?
What's my next diagnostic step?
I had the left crankcase over off the bike, which requires taking off the starter gear cover, and have also done a valve check. I'm certain that somewhere in this process, I manually cranked the engine backwards - clockwise. The service manual says "don't rotate clockwise" - but oops. I did. I think this somehow affects the auto-decompression?
The problem I'm facing is that, now fully re-assembled, when I push the starter button - it just goes "click" - as if the battery is dead and doesn't have the juice to make the compression stroke.
I can turn the engine over by hand with what seems like normal compression resistance. Battery is fully charged and starter spins like I'd expect if I remove one of the starter gears.
So: does it seem plausible that rotating the engine backwards at some point got this into a state that has defeated the auto-decompression valve? If auto-decompression IS broken - would the engine just not turn over with the starter motor at all? I thought some folks remove this auto-decompression stuff entirely?
What's my next diagnostic step?
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You may have set the valves a bit off, but the click you experience seems like a dead battery. You dont need to pull side covers off to set valves if i remember. Just observe the timing mark per the literature. I think you have a dead/weak battery. If you want to backtrack, do a quick valve check, rotating the engine with the rear wheel it top gear and spark plug out. If valves check out, id get a new battery. I suppose you can check voltage on it but it seems fine unless under load. I dont know that moving the engine backwards can screw up the auto decomp, but perhaps others are more knowledgeable.
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Wow...that issue is way over my head.
I got another issue, in that I removed the carb and cleaned it, but then I had the parts scattered for awhile. I've put it together some and it starts, it idles great but bogs down when throttle is given gas quickly, if tends to not bog down as much if gas is given slowly. So I got extra rubber lines and not sure where they go, anybody have a diagram or picture of both sides or an overview of how it should be normally put together?
I got another issue, in that I removed the carb and cleaned it, but then I had the parts scattered for awhile. I've put it together some and it starts, it idles great but bogs down when throttle is given gas quickly, if tends to not bog down as much if gas is given slowly. So I got extra rubber lines and not sure where they go, anybody have a diagram or picture of both sides or an overview of how it should be normally put together?
What happens if you warm it uo then leave choke on ? Will it rev quick. ^^^^
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It does do better after warmed up, and usually leave it in choke for the 10-15 min warm-up. But ultimately can't quick rev without choke...
I would order new jets fro I use Rocky Mountain ATV and clean carburetor. Change out gas and new sparkplug and make sure all vacuum lines are sealed. I use a stock air cleaner. I had a foam one come apart, . Mine runs a lot better after installing the de-smog kit. You can just clean your jets but they are cheap.
Let us know what you find.
The nature of these bikes is until warm thar sputter and all have a dead spot unless thet have a pumper carb. It's easy to live with. I love my 650L
Let us know what you find.
The nature of these bikes is until warm thar sputter and all have a dead spot unless thet have a pumper carb. It's easy to live with. I love my 650L
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See if you can find a place that sells welding supplies and pick up a torch tip cleaner. A lot of auto supply stores may have them as well as hardware stores or you can order one from Amazon. They are typically less than $10 and are the best thing to clean jets with. It does sound like the carb still needs cleaning some more, even though you did it already. I run a pumper carb and not sure where all of he vacuum lines attach the the stock carb.
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