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Kawasaki KLE500

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What did you guys do when it was time to tighten the spokes/true the wheel?
 
Interesting sxs photo.
 

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I have checked both bikes out. Price wise, the CF offers more, but I seem to lean toward the KLE. Someone may convince me otherwise. I think the KLE would be better highway wise from the you tube videos. Offroad, I'm not sure.
 
not to hijack this thread but I'm looking at a bike which only comes with tubes
which I do not like for the similar reasons stated in a previous post
(I can't change a tube when I'm riding solo)

I did try and convert my AT to tubeless but the tire kept falling off the rim at low pressure,
so I gave up.

I thought tubed rims and tubeless rims have a different profile and you can't mix and match.
However there are many people who have carried out the conversion with no adverse effect
so I guess I'm wrong.

Thoughts?
 
FitzPA said:
not to hijack this thread but I'm looking at a bike which only comes with tubes
which I do not like for the similar reasons stated in a previous post
(I can't change a tube when I'm riding solo)

I did try and convert my AT to tubeless but the tire kept falling off the rim at low pressure,
so I gave up.

I thought tubed rims and tubeless rims have a different profile and you can't mix and match.
However there are many people who have carried out the conversion with no adverse effect
so I guess I'm wrong.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I know you don't want to hear this, but I would learn how to change a tube solo, especially if you are one to ride out and about by yourself. Tires can get cut, or have a puncture that is too large to plug and putting a tube in might be your only way to continue even on tubeless wheels.

Second thing for the pressure, I have to ask. What kind of low pressure are you running to where your tire comes off of the rim? An Africa Twin is a BIG bike, so I wouldn't run anything lower than 20-25psi, and I don't see a tire coming off at those pressures unless you are doing something far rougher than an Africa Twin was ever meant to do.
 
DFW_Warrior said:
I know you don't want to hear this, but I would learn how to change a tube solo, especially if you are one to ride out and about by yourself. Tires can get cut, or have a puncture that is too large to plug and putting a tube in might be your only way to continue even on tubeless wheels.

Second thing for the pressure, I have to ask. What kind of low pressure are you running to where your tire comes off of the rim? An Africa Twin is a BIG bike, so I wouldn't run anything lower than 20-25psi, and I don't see a tire coming off at those pressures unless you are doing something far rougher than an Africa Twin was ever meant to do.
Click to expand...


I DO know how to change a tire - been doing it for MANY years on many bikes; But doing it solo
on a trail is too much for me these days (its called "getting on in years" !!).

I had a 2 front flats on my Husky 350 (lightweight bike) and it took me the ages to replace the tube.
Rear tire would have been a bigger challenge.

There is no way I have the strength to work on a flat on my ex-AT - I sold it because it became too
heavy for me.

I've never (touch wood) had a flat on a tubeless tire; I currently have a Ibex 450 (tubeless) and
there is no way I could insert a tube on the trail.

Regarding pressure on my big bikes ; 25 in front and 30 rear (35 when 2 up)

The tire on the AT came off the rim when it had a small leak and the tire rolled of the rim - there was no way I could seat the bead with my small compressor

BTW - I carry a InReach IF things ever go south

However this does not address my original question.
 
FitzPA said:
I thought tubed rims and tubeless rims have a different profile
Click to expand...
FitzPA said:
However this does not address my original question.
Click to expand...
I'm far from an expert but believe you are correct. The shoulders of the rain are different. For that reason a lot of folks don't convert the front rim. My 2 cents.
 
From AI, lol:

Gemini said​

Yes, there are significant mechanical and functional differences between rims designed for inner tubes and those designed for tubeless setups. While they may look similar from the outside, the internal geometry and sealing capabilities are distinct.




1. Air-Tight Construction​

  • Tubed Rims: Most traditional spoked (laced) wheels are not airtight. The spokes pass through holes in the center of the rim, and air would leak out through these nipple holes. These require a rubber "rim strip" to protect the inner tube from the spoke nipples and a separate tube to hold the air.

    +2

  • Tubeless Rims: These are designed to be a sealed pressure vessel. Most are cast or forged alloy wheels with no holes. However, some modern high-end adventure or cruiser bikes use "cross-spoke" or "side-laced" rims where the spokes attach to the outer edge of the rim, leaving the center airtight.

    +1

2. The "Safety Bead" (Humps)​

The most critical safety difference is the rim profile:

  • Tubeless Rims (MT H2 Type): These feature a "safety hump" or a raised ridge just inside the rim flange. This hump locks the tire's bead in place. If you get a puncture at high speed, this ridge prevents the tire from falling into the "drop center" of the rim, which helps you maintain control as the bike slows down.



  • Tubed Rims (WM Type): These generally lack that safety hump because the inner tube provides the internal pressure to keep the tire seated. Without a tube, a tire on this rim could suddenly "de-bead" if pressure is lost, leading to an immediate and dangerous loss of control.

3. Valve Stem Fitment​

  • Tubed: The hole in the rim is just a pass-through for the tube’s valve stem.
  • Tubeless: The rim has a specifically machined, airtight seat for a bolt-in or pull-through rubber valve stem that seals directly against the metal.

#2 is what I was referencing.
 
If it makes y'all feel any better, I've had two tubeless tires on tubeless rims come off of the bead when flat and trying to get to a spot to deal with it. Tubeless wheels are not a promise to never have a bead come off the rim. If you want something that is 100% guaranteed to never need to come off of the rim, ever, even with no air in the thing at all; then lace a narrower wheel onto whatever bike it is, and run the Nutech Prolock 360.

FitzPA said:
However this does not address my original question.
Click to expand...
To be fair, your original 'question' was...
FitzPA said:
not to hijack this thread but I'm looking at a bike which only comes with tubes
Click to expand...
Which is a strange bike to look for when shortly after you were talking about not being able to change tubed tires. Then there were a couple statements thrown in there, and finally a "Thoughts?" with a question mark. I gave my thoughts, but it sounds like it wasn't the thoughts you were looking for.

Sorry for misinterpreting, but in all honesty, that post was a little all over the place. Anywho, good luck!
 
Any more thoughts on the KLE500 ? I am still thinking on it. Been twice more to the shop with the scooter issue and I keep going back and looking at the bike. Just a plain bike that reminds me of the old days in a way. Functional without all the extras. I will say that I probably have what I need already. The AT for long trips and the Rally for doing off pavement stuff and it does good on pavement for me actually. We always seem to want something new and different and I already have the right machines.
 
Well, it's actually quite simple. Do you have space in your garage for more bikes? If yes, then you need more bikes. If no, then you need a bigger garage. Glad I could help, (but please don't let your wife see this).
 
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Well, the dealer text me back. The bike is around $7,500 and they had given me an OTD at $10,450. They said I could negotiate, which they did on my last two bikes. They took what I offered. I rode the AT about 80 miles today. Stopped to visit a friend and I parked in good flat area of the bar ditch. We were talking and the bike turned over. We picked it up and I didn't feel any issues from my hernia surgery. But, I started reflecting about weight of the bike. Decisions decisions.
 
Texasrider58 said:
Well, the dealer text me back. The bike is around $7,500 and they had given me an OTD at $10,450. They said I could negotiate, which they did on my last two bikes. They took what I offered. I rode the AT about 80 miles today. Stopped to visit a friend and I parked in good flat area of the bar ditch. We were talking and the bike turned over. We picked it up and I didn't feel any issues from my hernia surgery. But, I started reflecting about weight of the bike. Decisions decisions.
Click to expand...
Rydah mention space. Lol. I don't room for what I have. Told them I would think about the price of the bike. Seems too much for me.
 
Texasrider58 said:
Any more thoughts on the KLE500 ?
Click to expand...

I sat on one for the first time this week.

Seems really tall and heavy for a 450 cc bike.

Perhaps the "Sweet Spot" area between a KLR650 and a KLX300 is more popular than I'm aware of.

It's 30 pounds lighter than a KLR.

It's 126 pounds heavier than the KLX. Wow.

Kawasaki Heavy Industries employs Ph.D Market Researchers far smarter than me.
 
Texasrider58 said:
Well, the dealer text me back. The bike is around $7,500 and they had given me an OTD at $10,450. They said I could negotiate, which they did on my last two bikes. They took what I offered. I rode the AT about 80 miles today. Stopped to visit a friend and I parked in good flat area of the bar ditch. We were talking and the bike turned over. We picked it up and I didn't feel any issues from my hernia surgery. But, I started reflecting about weight of the bike. Decisions decisions.
Click to expand...
That OTD price is crazy.
 
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