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KLR650 Thread

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I imagine this has probably been discussed here, but I am wondering what the rear shock options are for gen 1 Klr’s that don’t cost an arm and a leg. I’m curious if it’s worth it to hunt down a stock gen 2 shock maybe when some one upgraded and is getting rid of the stocker. My klr is a 96.. the rear shock isn’t necessarily blown, it seems to do ok until you really start working it. I notice it fade away and basically completely quit working on wash board roads to the point to where I cannot even speed up due to wheel hop. I did order oil and a seal kit for it to freshen it up I’m just not sure it’s worth it, or if it will really even help. Does any one know of any other stock pull off shocks that can be fit to the bike that I may be able to find as an improvement, or am I just going to be stuck with the $800 options?
 

_RG_

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Here's one I just stumbled on today...
Bleeding the brakes/replacing fluid in rear system of an 07. Pushing fluid up from the wheel worked as usual...except I had no brakes afterwards. Sucking fluid from the wheel restored the brake better than ever. All I can figure is either pushing up put air somewhere it doesn't belong or a mc piston seal gets flipped the wrong direction. Don't know but brakes are hard as an east Texas brick now.
 
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Pushing fluid up from the wheel worked as usual...except I had no brakes afterwards.
I have always flushed brakes at the wheel by sucking at the bleeder valve and keeping the master cylinder from getting empty (bringing in air). Do I understand correctly that you are pushing fluid in at the bleeder valve and removing the older fluid at the master cylinder?

The reason I ask is after flushing the front tore brake fluid on my V-Strom 650 ABS (two front discs), I have mushy brakes at the lever. I assume air has been caught somewhere in the ABS system and am looking at way to remove it.
 

_RG_

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I assume air has been caught somewhere in the ABS system and am looking at way to remove it.
Correct...
Do I understand correctly that you are pushing fluid in at the bleeder valve and removing the older fluid at the master cylinder?
Correct. That's how I've done it on several different motorcycles with good results...including the front brake here. The theory being pushing air bubbles up rather than trying to suck them down. I posted this up about the rear cause it didn't play by the rules. Something different here that others might use.
 
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