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KLR650 Thread

I imagine this has probably been discussed here, but I am wondering what the rear shock options are for gen 1 Klr’s that don’t cost an arm and a leg. I’m curious if it’s worth it to hunt down a stock gen 2 shock maybe when some one upgraded and is getting rid of the stocker. My klr is a 96.. the rear shock isn’t necessarily blown, it seems to do ok until you really start working it. I notice it fade away and basically completely quit working on wash board roads to the point to where I cannot even speed up due to wheel hop. I did order oil and a seal kit for it to freshen it up I’m just not sure it’s worth it, or if it will really even help. Does any one know of any other stock pull off shocks that can be fit to the bike that I may be able to find as an improvement, or am I just going to be stuck with the $800 options?
 
Here's one I just stumbled on today...
Bleeding the brakes/replacing fluid in rear system of an 07. Pushing fluid up from the wheel worked as usual...except I had no brakes afterwards. Sucking fluid from the wheel restored the brake better than ever. All I can figure is either pushing up put air somewhere it doesn't belong or a mc piston seal gets flipped the wrong direction. Don't know but brakes are hard as an east Texas brick now.
 
Pushing fluid up from the wheel worked as usual...except I had no brakes afterwards.
I have always flushed brakes at the wheel by sucking at the bleeder valve and keeping the master cylinder from getting empty (bringing in air). Do I understand correctly that you are pushing fluid in at the bleeder valve and removing the older fluid at the master cylinder?

The reason I ask is after flushing the front tore brake fluid on my V-Strom 650 ABS (two front discs), I have mushy brakes at the lever. I assume air has been caught somewhere in the ABS system and am looking at way to remove it.
 
I assume air has been caught somewhere in the ABS system and am looking at way to remove it.
Correct...
Do I understand correctly that you are pushing fluid in at the bleeder valve and removing the older fluid at the master cylinder?
Correct. That's how I've done it on several different motorcycles with good results...including the front brake here. The theory being pushing air bubbles up rather than trying to suck them down. I posted this up about the rear cause it didn't play by the rules. Something different here that others might use.
 
Found this on the website below. Just wanted to add it for reference sake.

2001 KLR650 torque specs

Engine Sprocket Nut - 98 N-m
Wheel Sprocket Nuts - 32 N-m
Rear Axle Nut - 93 N-m
Front Axle Nut - 78 N-m
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts - 25 N-m
Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts - 25 N-m
Disc Mounting Bolts - 23 N-m
Brake Bleeder - 7.8 N-m
Swingarm Main Mounting Bolt Nut - 98 N-m
Upper Shock Mounting Bolt - 59 N-m
Fork Clamp Bolt Nuts - 25 N-m
Rear Frame Mounting Bolts - 25 N-m
Tie-Rod Bolt Nuts - 98 N-m
Water Pump Cover Drain Bolt - 7.8 N-m
Fan Switch - 7.4 N-m
Thermostat Housing Bolts - 5.9 N-m
Water Temperature Sender - 15 N-m
Valve Cover Bolts - 7.8 N-m
Camshaft Cap Bolts - 12 N-m
Cam Chain Tensioner Mounting Bolts - 9.8 N-m

 
New front sneaker….😎
1468E5A9-4E65-44CD-A9A2-43FCF2480B8A.jpeg
 
What are you running?
A Kenda K270, coincidentally the first aftermarket tire I ever mounted on this bike, 13 years ago. I’m expecting relatively dry weather for the next three months, and probably 70% commuting/asphalt. This cost effective tire will get it done. It’s a 300-21.
This replaces a Dunlop 606 that saw good use over the winter, and through wetter and snowier riding. But toward the end of its life, very cupped and misshapen probably due to me not checking the pressure enough, and forgetting to re-inflate it after off road…😊
 
Nice, just put a pair of shinko 705s on mine last weekend.
For the money, not a better 50/50 tire out there. BUT, I vacationed in MO a few years back, summertime with a 705 on the rear, nearly new and was piddling around in the Mark Twain Forest and got down a dead end forest trail that was wet and muddy at the bottom of that holler……and I very nearly didn’t get out. Lesson learned, anywhere in the Ozarks, gotta have a knobbly on the back or risk getting stuck. I have switched to a Kenda big block now that I’m in Rogers. 👍🏻💯
 
Nice, just put a pair of shinko 705s on mine last weekend.
I run 705s on mine and have really enjoyed them. I am especially pleased with their handling in rain. That being said my off road commute is only about 1 miles of well maintained dirt road to the house. Everything else is paved all the way to work. So far for mileage, I have gotten about 5-6k on the rears and about 10k on the front.

I do have a second set of wheels I am wanting to freshen up and throw some nobbies on for off-road riding.
 
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A Kenda K270, coincidentally the first aftermarket tire I ever mounted on this bike, 13 years ago. I’m expecting relatively dry weather for the next three months, and probably 70% commuting/asphalt. This cost effective tire will get it done. It’s a 300-21.
This replaces a Dunlop 606 that saw good use over the winter, and through wetter and snowier riding. But toward the end of its life, very cupped and misshapen probably due to me not checking the pressure enough, and forgetting to re-inflate it after off road…😊
The Kenda’s are all I run on my KLR and have been all over Big Bend and the Mountains of Colorado 2-up no less, and they have been flawless. And you can’t beat the price!
 
So I’m thankful that someone posted up the kickstand length thread, was washing the bike this morning and looking over the old kickstand welds, etc….and found this!
I stand on the rear pegs a bunch, and this one needs rewelded to be safe!
50E63AE6-6AE7-40CC-85FE-5B541E7D0463.jpeg
 
So I’m thankful that someone posted up the kickstand length thread, was washing the bike this morning and looking over the old kickstand welds, etc….and found this!
I stand on the rear pegs a bunch, and this one needs rewelded to be safe! View attachment 325771
Thanks for the tip. I do the same and will check mine.
 
I have run 804/805’s on various bikes for a couple years now. I usually get about 4500 miles out of the rear on F800/850GSA’s and have achieved 43 degrees of lean angle. Great value at $200 a set.
 
I have run 804/805’s on various bikes for a couple years now. I usually get about 4500 miles out of the rear on F800/850GSA’s and have achieved 43 degrees of lean angle. Great value at $200 a set.
How much of your riding is on road vs off road? I have always run 705s cause sadly I am mostly commuting and they are perfect for that but have really wanted to give the 804/805s a try. I have just been worried my on road performance would suffer with the different tread pattern considering they call them 40% on road and 60% off road.
 
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What’s y’all’s take on leaving directly from the dealership and going on a 3000+ mile trip? I could arrange to get the oil changed at 500-600 mile mark with another dealer and try to take it somewhat easy/variable the first 100 miles or so, but it would be a solid 6-7 high mileage days right from the showroom floor. Bad plan or should it be fine? Planning to buy in Seattle and ride the sucker home.
 
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