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Kz1000 questions

Joined
May 31, 2020
Messages
36
Location
Austin County
Looking at a non-running KZ1000 tomorrow. Supposedly has old fuel problems. I have no experience with the Japanese I-4 architecture but have built everything form twin-can Harleys to 1000hp na Ford big-blocks, with some old school diesel tractors thrown in.

other than what one would normally look at when checking out non-running *** - any real “gotchas” I should look for?

1rst step - smell gas and make sure tank is not rusty
2nd step - assume stuck float could fill crankcase with gas. Check oil level and smell
3rd
4th
Etc?????
 

budzrex

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Been sitting do your self a favor and pull the carbs and give them a good cleaning, pilot jets will be plugged, manual petcock more than likely depending on year but if its a vacuum petcock the oring in it has probably dried out and filled the crankcase with gas common Kawasaki issue with vacuum petcocks
 

pacman

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Jan 3, 2006
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Burleson
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Once you get fuel, carbs, and ignition sorted you'll have a great engine. It's a really stout design. Kawasaki made the KZ1000 engine for almost 30 years, and recently announced they starting up production of the cylinder heads again.

 

NX2000

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My KZ1000 experience is all with the KZ1000P. I've had three of them. Can't speak for the others. It IS going to weep oil from the cylinder head top down on the cooling flutes. A actual leak isn't normal but it's gonna weep enough to make you think it's leaking and freak out. Don't worry thats normal. I just kept it wiped off and clean.

If the motor has more than 50K the cam chain needs to be inspected. I can't remember the term but its the kind of engine that the piston smacks a valve when the cam chain breaks. This is quite annoying.

Like Pacman said, it's a great engine. It will take a lot of abuse and keep running. If its a P it is like a tank.
 
Joined
May 31, 2020
Messages
36
Location
Austin County
It is a police bike - 2000 KZ1000P

Question for NX2000 - which way do I turn my clutch adjustment screw
1) CCW until stops 1/4 CW: (per internet regarding police bikes Supposedly for later police models)
OR
2) CW until stops 1/4 CCW (per my KZ1000 download manual circa 1980's)

I did buy the bike and it's at the house with a crankcase full of smelly gas. I'm waiting on a manual petcock and oil filter so I can see if it runs. Meanwhile, I'm working on some wiring issues and the out-of-adjustment clutch.
 

jfink

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Conroe, Tx
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What fun. I seriously mean that. Lot's of maintenance. Carbs, gas tank rust, fork seals, clutch cable, valves. There is a little tool for adjusting the valves which eliminates the need to remove the camshafts. I have one somewhere, but in looking it up for the photo, I was REALLY surprised how much people are asking for these.
57001-113_02.jpg


It is an interference engine, as are most motorcycles. Be careful when changing shims to make sure you get the proper diameter and get it properly seated in the cup. I believe they are 29mm diameter but you may want to look it up or measure. I had a dealer give me a slightly larger diameter shim, among all the shims I bought, which caused a bent valve. We shared responsibility, so they gave me the replacement valve for free and I did the install.

Also, it is an aluminum engine and the torque specs are for dry conditions. For tightening most bolts saturated with oil, reduce the torque valves by about 30%. I stripped several valve cap bolts trying to torque them to book specs. Helicoil worked wonderfully.

I assume it also has the mechanical ignition system? If so, may be time for an upgrade.

Good luck, hey post some pictures. I loved my Z1's and wish I had kept them.
 

NX2000

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My KZ1000 experience is all with the KZ1000P. I've had three of them. Can't speak for the others. It IS going to weep oil from the cylinder head top down on the cooling flutes. A actual leak isn't normal but it's gonna weep enough to make you think it's leaking and freak out. Don't worry thats normal. I just kept it wiped off and clean.

If the motor has more than 50K the cam chain needs to be inspected. I can't remember the term but its the kind of engine that the piston smacks a valve when the cam chain breaks. This is quite annoying.

Like Pacman said, it's a great engine. It will take a lot of abuse and keep running. If its a P it is like a tank.
My 93 and 95 I had to adjust the clutch a couple times each. I just trial and errored it until it felt right. My 04 was the only new one I had, I never had to fool with the clutch on it.
 

Texas T

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Sun Lakes & Show Low, Arizona
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You're going to enjoy it once its up and running. I had a ZG1000 (Concours) for several years and I really regret selling it. Great motor.
 
Joined
May 31, 2020
Messages
36
Location
Austin County
Can someone school me on chains. Bike uses 630 O-ring chain.
Questions
- Bike has "clip" style master link - I could not find consensus whether they are adequate or not
- If no, which chain breaker / riveting tool do ya'll recommend (motion pro 08-0135 and 08-0142)
- If chain/sprockets fail inspection, should I go with 530 chain, sprockets and breaker tools? (cheaper, better selection)
- Is "X" ring that much better than o-ring



Update
Got the electrical working (headlight, markers etc). Headlight was a puzzler, someone had a harness connector off, bent one of the female pins, and when the connector was put back together the male pin was pushed out of connector.

Brake fluid is exceptionally clean - so I'm hoping the rest of bike was maintained as well

Got clutch adjusted (hopefully). The all knowing internet indicated the newer police bike adjust the opposite than the early civilian bikes

Got the oil changed / filter changed - drained out out about 2 gal of oil cut gas

Changed out the fuel line w/carbs on bike - definitely not easy. Esp tightening the worm-drive clamp. Now I have German cloth covered fuel line on a Japanese bike - All I need now is some Italian bits for the full Axis

Hooked up a sauce squeeze bottle of gas and - IT RUNS - and actually sounds pretty good. Starts on like 1/2 revolution when warm w/o choke. Little bit of smoke when you rev it - not sure if that is normal for a carbed bike or not. Could not see color in shop - does not smell like burnt oil

Waiting on Ebay parts (inline filter, manual petcock) to reinstall tank

Next steps
- Inspect chain and sprockets - at least clean and adjust, probably ~2" play in chain
- Put on petcock, tank , inline filter (where I can get to it)
- Inspect tires for age/condition
- ride it to assess motor condition
- If runs good - check valves and cam chain (per suggestions)
- remove LEO stuff - probably sell it to fund other bike parts

270676
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 8, 2004
Messages
933
Location
Frydek, Texas
My 1978 Z1R had a master link holding the chain together . Had one fail and from then on went to a peened over link. I had a RK chain peening tool.
 
Joined
Jul 23, 2006
Messages
647
Location
College Station
Without starting the great debate on clip vs rivet master links, I’ll say this.....I ran a clip on my 1224 ZRX that put down 155ish hp and never had an issue. I also ran one when I ran the Texas Mile on the ZRX. Their only stipulation was that the clip had to be secured with wire or silicone. Just make sure the open end of the clip faces rearward.
 
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