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Life at 200MPH

A small turbo to put down around 230 or so horse should do it and it would remain remarkably friendly with the boost dialed down and would be less affected by elevation changes when touring through places like Colorado, etc.:trust:
 
would laughing gas be the most reversible mod? (taking into consideration it doesn't grenade the engine):shrug:

I've no idea if that's even allowed at the Tx Mile.
 
would laughing gas be the most reversible mod? (taking into consideration it doesn't grenade the engine):shrug:

I've no idea if that's even allowed at the Tx Mile.

That'd be a long pass on spray.
 
Geez....and I thought jets were fast.

Got my KLR650 up to 90 mph once, but that was down hill with a tail wind. :yawn:

kennyd
Houston
 
Not really as you don't need to hit the button until nearly topped out without it.:rider:

I don't think it's going to be that simple. You're going to need that juice earlier than you think if you are going to make a 200mph pass at the Texas mile with easy bolt ons.
 
It's a heavy bike anyways, what's a 15lb bottle strapped to the pillion pad? :-P
 
Aerodynamics are key at that speed. The bottle would have to be inside the body work or it would disrupt air flow. The gas hits hard, and on a top speed run would have to be on solid for a minute or more. I would worry about the stability of the flow for that long of a run. On a 9 second or less drag run it is in its element.

It will take a certain amount of power to make the speed work. There are many different ways to do that. Cam and compression alteration along with flow mods to the head is the old school way. Drawbacks to get the performance level may include reduced daily rider friendliness.

A turbo allows milder cam profiles to keep the daily usage happy, yet at high RPMs and full throttle the speed is there.

By the way, when you do the run I bet some of us will want to be there to cheer y'all on
 
Well trying to be realistic here I think there is a point where although more HP= more speed at some point the Bus is going to start getting hard to handle and when it reaches that point I think if it gets intimidating( trying to wheelie and spin up) she is porbably going to be intimidated so I really want to keep the power delivery as smooth and manageable as possible. Nitrous is not a bad idea in the Mid gears as I think it would get you up to speed in a shorter distance but in the first 2 or three it would most likely just try to stand up and then in top gear wheelspin becomes a major issue.
SRAD
Heavy Bus Racing
 
Good luck with your venture. You realize that that last 10 or 15mph won't come easily. Please keep us posted.
 
Carl, call me if you guys test at the Nine Miles this weekend. I'd like to be there. I'll let you use my GPS and I'll bring a good video camera.
 
My first time at Bonneville was in the P-PP 1000, M-PG 1650 and A-PG 1650 classes. Did that for 2 seasons unfaired. Hanging on, while the wind you are creating is trying to rip you off, caused a lot of instability at speed. I set records at 143.1, 176.6 and 167.4 mph respectively. No clue what the HP was...just went for it.

MPS-PG 1350 class. I had 170 RWHP at the time. The best I could get (both passes averaged) was 177 mph. A little more tweaking before the meet a month later netted me 183 mph.

The next year, I played with nitrous (MPS-PF 1350) and did quite well. I was fairly conservative so as not to leave parts and fluid all over the salt. The dyno before the meet was almost 200 RWHP. The bike was lowered to 1" off the ground and the suspension travel mechanically limited. The best I could get was 196 mph.

Season 5, I got a little more radical (1650) and had gotten up to 240 RWHP. With some body work mods done by a friend in CA with some serious CF experience, I was able to slice through a little better. The new shapes were based on "feel" of how the bike was reacting at speed. You can tell where the pressure is and where the turbulence is. Not scientific analysis by any means but you can really tell when the bike flows better. The 2 bottles of juice were now in a custom cage underneath the tail section this time. I netted passes at 3 meets between 205 and 217 mph. The average of my sequential passes came out to 213.989 mph.

Regardless of having a 2 mile run up to the 3 timed miles and better aerodynamics, about 30% of my power is lost to wheel slippage, but it is up there with the big boys in motoGP. With their 240 RWHP, 990 cc machines, 219 mph was the best they could do on the longest of straights during qualifying.

Now, regarding the lady going to ride the Busa, when you are already at 140+ mph, hitting the juice will not pick up the front end nor will the bike get squirrely because of more HP. If the bike is going to be squirrely, it's because the suspension wasn't properly setup to begin with. The nitrous can be managed by any number of systems available on the market to keep delivery smooth and predictable. At speed, hitting the juice won't exactly pin her to the rear of the seat. The battle between HP and dynamic pressure will keep acceleration pretty uneventful.

Modern bikes are awesome right of the showroom floor. A lot of disillusioned people change the gearing, lower the bike and throw in race gas thinking they can break 200. They don't understand it isn't that easy.

Areos, gearing and a buttload of HP will get you over 200. Getting the right mix is the trick.
 
You mean we can't just show up take off the mirrors and go 200MPH?
We are really planning on a lot of testing between now and then, hopefully with some positive results. Marie hasn't learned to"feel the air" yet and when she does I'm not sure how comfortable she is going to be trying to move around and get slippery, those things just come with seat time, and good coaching;-)
There are alot of +'s about the Texas Mile chief among them is that it is PAVED. I think the combination of salt low traction and speed would be alot to deal with so Pavement is just one more positive.
So the Plan is to do some GPS runs on Sunday anyone have any educated guesses? What about just plain guesses?
at this point the bike is bone stock except for the addition of a set of Yoshimuira slip-ons and a K&N airfilter. Gearing is to my knowledge stock. Gel seat has been added which unfortunately is about 1/2 inch taller than stock(seat of pants measurement).
So what do say? Post up your guesses for ACTUAL GPS'ed speed.
I'll start with 180MPH
SRAD
Heavy Bus Racing
 
So what do say? Post up your guesses for ACTUAL GPS'ed speed. I'll start with 180MPH

Sounds about right. We're at 3,000 feet elevation here, and the oxygen density will be a little lower than usual if the humidity stays where it's been over past few days.

My guess: 182
 
I'm guessing 171.

Nah, we tested faster than that on a bone-stock GSXR1000:

matt_gps_small.jpg
 
182.

Are you using the Busa's stock tires? They are, even after all these years, the only street tire certified safe for sustained speeds over 200 mph. Even race tires are deemed for intermittent bursts. Pump them up to 40 psi. A dozen Busa land speed racers can't be wrong. They taught me some LSR lessons my first couple seasons.
 
Hey now Chuck... was that "Max speed" figure related to vertical velocity (dropping) in a water crossing???? :nana:

186 is my guess.
 
Hey now Chuck... was that "Max speed" figure related to vertical velocity (dropping) in a water crossing???? :nana:

No water crossings (except by bridge) that trip. :shrug: how it got that number

-------

I'm going with 183
 
Regarding feeling the air...

The trick in LSR is to get the butt far back into the seat bump. No humping the tank like in road racing. As the speed increases, arching your back into a hunchback shape will help the airstrean to merge together and reattach itself at the rear of the bike. You'll know it's working when you can feel the air travel down the length of your spine and across your butt. If you can feel like your back is being "sucked" upwards, your doing too much hump. You're creating drag at that point.

The biggest problems bikes have is being so short, they can not get the airflow to reattach itself behind the bike. You get a partail vaccuum back there and when the airflow does merge, it's in the form of turbulence, which actually tries to pull you back. Small holes or slots at the lowest part of the windscreen allow some air between the rider and windscreen. This wil help prevent buffetting and will make it easier to keep the helmet where it belongs and not slow you down. It also keep the airstream from trying to get inside the space between you and the windcreen, where there would normally be a partial vaccuum, and ripping you off the bike.

Decrease the width of the bars. Steering dampers are a must and most sanctioning bodies require them. Some classes require 2.
 
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