Longhorn 2000,
Yours is an old post and you may be onto something different now. But if you are still experimenting with engine coolant-heated wearable-gear the following is my experience with heated and cooled clothing:
I’ve made heated and cooled gear. For cooling I‘ve used ram-air. A funnel attached to the top of my helmet and bifurcated-tubes run down my back into my jacket. Sucked up bugs and trash. Obviously it didn't work standing still which is when cooling is needed most. I then sewed 32’ of 3/8” tubing into coveralls and fed ice water from a one-gallon cooler using a 12vdc potable water pump. I used plastic QD’s to isolate the water when disconnected. Worked well but the ice didn’t last very long; about 40-minutes on a 90° F day. I then changed the passive cooler for a powered, 12vdc cooler. This extended the the cooling for about 30 additional minutes. I switched to an off the shelf CoolShirt. It comes with plastic QDs. CoolShirt sells entire cooling systems.
The powered coolers are also heaters. Direction of current-flow determines cooling or heating function. This might be an option over using the bikes liquid cooling system for heat. The possibility of a get off causing rider-scalding and or coolant loss is serious. I use electrically heated clothing so I haven’t attempted water-heat.
With my liquid-cooled overalls, should a get off occur I expected the hoses to pull out of the cooler. If you do proceed with engine coolant heat for your suit hydraulic fuses might be a good idea. My only experience with them is in the aviation-field. I have no idea if there are DIY fuses for sale. Might be an interesting challenge to design and make fuses for your application.
Heated seats work remarkably well. I’ve made them out of old heating pads and heating blankets. I see no reason why a cooling-system, heated seat would not be possible. This would eliminate the getting-separated-from-the-bike issue. A simple petcock valve could be used for control.
Working with fluid for heat is messy. Electrical heat is simple compared to liquid-heat. I started making heated visors long before they became commercially available. I was commuting in sub-zero (F) conditions. My heated jacket, gloves, pants and socks made this possible but FogCity and Pinlock visors couldn’t overcome ice buildup. I tried snorkels made of flexible straws but they froze up after a few miles. I first thought I would heat them but then decided that if I were going to route 12vdc to my helmet for this heating purpose, why not just heat the visor.
I did this with heating pad wires scotch-taped to my helmet’s visor. Worked a treat. Now snowmobile helmets come with conductive poly-visors; no wires to obstruct the view. Many replacement heated visors can be modified to fit standard visors.
More than enough heating wire is available in a queen sized heated blanket. The wire can be hand-tacked into shirt, pants and socks (sewing the wire into gloves is tedious but can be done).
Once hand-tacked onto a garment, machine zigzagging will better secure the wire element. This is not necessary if one is patient enough to hand sew the wires.
I’ve learned independent control of each piece of heated-gear is desirable. This adds complications but it’s worth it. Many dual, remote controllers are available. Their application requires a battery powered potentiometer-like controller. The control-batteries don’t last long, maybe two to three hours. They can be wired into the bike’s 12-vdc system with voltage reducers.
General aviation aircraft use heat muff heat exchangers wrapped around the exhaust system, not too different from VW’s air cooled engine cabin heat-system. Some tubing and a 12vdc fan to force the air into the clothing would be required.
Water/glycol-filled flexible copper tubing could be wrapped around the header and exhaust pipes. Flexible tubing could be attached to the copper tubing and then routed into the suit. Convection would supple the motive force required to circulate the heated fluid. A conventional automotive thermostat could be placed in line to guarantee the engine would reach operating temperature. Off the shelf metal QD’s should be able to handle the heat. O rings might need to be replaced to meet elevated thermal needs.
I applaud your pluck. Some of the obstacles which need to be overcome are daunting but as Clarence Darrow said; “Lost causes are the only ones worth fighting for”.
You are in good company. People like us are capable of bringing a turd to a high patina. Sure it’s reinventing wheel; anything in the way of powered clothing you may make has already been done. And it’s been done cheaper; Chinese slaves cannot be beaten for price-point.
But it gives you something to do with your hands…
Steve