• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

Messed up magneto cover (DR650)

WhiskeySmith

Uff Da
Forum Supporter
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
707
Location
29°34'10.9"N 97°57'50.7"W
First Name
Carl
Now that I've managed to destroy the intended method of removing the magneto cover on my '99 Suzuki DR650, what are my options for removing the little cover?

magneto-cover.jpg
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2011
Messages
2,872
Location
McKinney, Texas
First Name
Gary
Last Name
Waugh
obviously you need to order a new one immediately. If you are anywhere near McKinney (north Dallas) come to my house (with the new one so we can fit it afterwards) and I will take it out for you!!
Otherwise I would be drilling 2 small holes in the plug and then putting screws in those holes, put a bar between the 2 screws and try rotating (unscrewing) the cover!!

Gary
 

dannyboy

Forum Supporter
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
390
Location
NW HOUSTON
I had the same problem one time and used a cold chisel with a sharp flat blade on it and put it on the outside area and whacked it several times.
 

WoodButcher

Admin
Joined
May 20, 2004
Messages
12,142
Location
Austin, TX
First Name
Rusty
Last Name
Myers
Carl, I had that same problem when it was mine. Or maybe I helped some else remove theirs and I was careful with mine. But yes, order a new one first because that one will be useless after you get it off.

What I did is look at where the threads were on the new one and drilled two holes in the cover far enough in to not hit the threads of the case. Then I put in two pins and used a bar between them to turn the cover. A couple of screws for pins would work fine and a long screwdriver. And looking at that cover and how shiny it is, I'm betting it was that bike I fixed.
 

JQ1.0

Forum Supporter
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
405
Location
Graham, Texas
Take some pictures of the cure to share with others afflicted with the same problem. Turning the rear wheel and trying to align the timing mark is a pitb. I'll be using anti seize if I ever decide to replace mine.
 

WhiskeySmith

Uff Da
Forum Supporter
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
707
Location
29°34'10.9"N 97°57'50.7"W
First Name
Carl
obviously you need to order a new one immediately. If you are anywhere near McKinney (north Dallas) come to my house (with the new one so we can fit it afterwards) and I will take it out for you!!
Otherwise I would be drilling 2 small holes in the plug and then putting screws in those holes, put a bar between the 2 screws and try rotating (unscrewing) the cover!!

Gary
Thank you for the kind offer to help me work on this. I'm down by San Antonio so the logistics might not work out for me. Will keep your offer in mind though. Ordered the part on ebay. Hopefully the correct part.

I had the same problem one time and used a cold chisel with a sharp flat blade on it and put it on the outside area and whacked it several times.
May have to try this before drilling. Thanks!

Carl, I had that same problem when it was mine. Or maybe I helped some else remove theirs and I was careful with mine. But yes, order a new one first because that one will be useless after you get it off.

What I did is look at where the threads were on the new one and drilled two holes in the cover far enough in to not hit the threads of the case. Then I put in two pins and used a bar between them to turn the cover. A couple of screws for pins would work fine and a long screwdriver. And looking at that cover and how shiny it is, I'm betting it was that bike I fixed.
Wise suggestion to wait for the new part before breaking out the drill. Will try this if the cold chisel approach isn't fruitful. Thought today was going to be a simple valve adjustment and oil/filter change, then ride. BTW, that Shorai battery you gave me to charge and try on my GSA (back in early 2014), faithfully started my bike for three years. Then it was used to power a water pump in a canoe that ran the Texas Water Safari. They ran the pump non-stop all the way across San Antonio Bay.

Fastest way to fix your problem is to replace the '99 DR with an '18 KTM 500

:lol:
:rofl: Don't think a new bike didn't cross my mind. But at some point I've got to learn more than just oil changes and how to spoon on a tire.
 

WhiskeySmith

Uff Da
Forum Supporter
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
707
Location
29°34'10.9"N 97°57'50.7"W
First Name
Carl
Take some pictures of the cure to share with others afflicted with the same problem. Turning the rear wheel and trying to align the timing mark is a pitb. I'll be using anti seize if I ever decide to replace mine.
I'll do my best to document. Knowing me, it's gonna be messy.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
193
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Heat helps a lot. You can either ride it around to get it hot or you can judiciously apply heat to the outer cover with a propane torch and a low flame setting, heat gun, hair dryer, etc. The propane torch method works well, but you must excercise due caution with both the open flame and the amount of heat you can introduce with it. If you use an application of heat, don't heat it until it smokes, just heat it enough that it is just slightly hotter than you can hold a hand to it for a few seconds. I prefer just riding it around the block until it is good and hot.

As for getting a grip on it, the methods in previous posts will all work. You may be able to drive a slightly larger torx bit into the hex socket and loosen it after you get it hot.
 

E.Marquez

Forum Supporter
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
3,746
Location
Kempner, TX
First Name
Erik
Now that I've managed to destroy the intended method of removing the magneto cover on my '99 Suzuki DR650, what are my options for removing the little cover?

magneto-cover.jpg
Drill a divot in the outer edge, about 5mm in say 3mm deep. Then use a punch that fits the divot to "unscrew" the cap. Works every time,,,,,,,though I dont do it that way...:-D
Same concept but I use a 1/2" wide Sharp chisel, set sharp end against the cap at about 30deg angle. and give chisel a good whack. It also works for ME every time, BUT, it you let it slip by too little angle, dull chisel, ect, it may slip off and ding the cover :giveup: So I suggest the two step drill and punch method.

I remove a few dozen stuck access plugs on all different brands a year this way...please dont over think it....its very simple and quick to remove doing either method outlined
 
Last edited:

E.Marquez

Forum Supporter
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
3,746
Location
Kempner, TX
First Name
Erik
All excellent and proven extraction methods. Thank you. Is there any use in applying a bit of Liquid Wrench before attempting any of the extraction methods?
Not in my opinion.... they stick due to physical issues not corrosion.

And while heat and other stuff might effect the removal in a positive way, the chisel or punch does not require it.. I can get a stuck cover plug out faster then it took me to type this response no heat or chemicals involved :giveup:

It looks like your cover plug is either flush or sub surface to the cover..if so, use the drill and punch method, if the chisel slips on a plug like yours you will ding the case most likely. When you hit the punch, be bold ..little love taps likely will not work an you dont want to loose the nice clean edge of the hole you drilled, it helps keep the punch tip in place.
 
Last edited:

E.Marquez

Forum Supporter
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
3,746
Location
Kempner, TX
First Name
Erik
:rofl:I feel ya. Since I have a drill and punch set, and no chisel set, looks like that might be the method to try first.
Go easy on the drilling, its soft material, and if the drill bit is sharp, it might snag and dig in deep...

So light pressure and remember the cap is only 4~5-mm thick at the outer edge.. Ideally your trying to drill the divot as far to the outside of the OD so more TQ is available to loosen, but also ideally you would drill the divot right on top of the cast threaded section
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2011
Messages
2,872
Location
McKinney, Texas
First Name
Gary
Last Name
Waugh
Don't forget there is an O-ring on that cover, so be careful applying heat, or also order a new O-ring to go with the new plug!! If using the chisel/punch method, be careful it doesn't slip and mark the outer casing and as stated earlier, don't try anything until you have the new bolt, otherwise you will get the old one out and then not be able to drive due to not having a new cover to put in the hole..

Gary
 

WhiskeySmith

Uff Da
Forum Supporter
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
707
Location
29°34'10.9"N 97°57'50.7"W
First Name
Carl
I appreciate everyone sharing their experience and knowledge. I tried using a slightly larger torx bit and drove it in a bit. But in the end, all I managed to do was create a larger diameter circle where a smaller hexagon should be. I will wait until the replacement cover arrives, get familiar with the measurements and then assess which options seem most doable given my tools and (lacking) mechanical skills.
 

WhiskeySmith

Uff Da
Forum Supporter
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
707
Location
29°34'10.9"N 97°57'50.7"W
First Name
Carl
If close to SW Ft. Worth, I have a set of these ...

http://sockitout.com/

easy peazy
I used to have an extractor set like the Craftsman 5pc mentioned above, but cannot find it. Right now I'm hoping Gary and Rusty's suggestion of drilling two holes and using screws for leverage will be the cure.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
193
Location
Fort Worth, TX
It will absolutely work...as will drill bits or punches that fit the holes tightly. In the aviation world there are lots of lock rings that incorporate that method for removel...of course theres also a special tool made to fit so no damage occurs to the ring
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2017
Messages
298
Location
DFW
I had a similar issue on my Yamaha SR185. I drilled 2 holes before I had the replacement part in to measure and got really lucky I didn't hit the threads in the casing itself. You said it yourself, do some measurements before you try much of anything.

I actually used a circle clip tool to hit the holes I drilled and ended up bending the prongs on the tool a little. Good thing it was from Harbor Freight and didn't cost me much. I wish I had thought of 2 screws or a punch set and screw driver instead. Might have been easier.

I will say that in my experience, the break free stuff I sprayed didn't seem to do much if anything. I'm guessing it didn't seep into any of the threads to loosen them up. Good luck.
 

E.Marquez

Forum Supporter
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
3,746
Location
Kempner, TX
First Name
Erik
I'm guessing it didn't seep into any of the threads to loosen them up. Good luck.
My experience is it not thread binding, it is the cap edge seating against the case, and perhaps some binding in threads as well...I Just know , no amount of penetration fluid has ever helped...and once the center hex is damaged, it takes literally longer to walk over and chuck op a drill bit then it does to drill a small divot and loosen it with a single strike of the punch and hammer.. Less time if you use a chisel but you have to get the angle right and be confident to hit the chisel hard. Words apparently are not conveying how easy this is....
To each his own, do what works for you :giveup:
 

WhiskeySmith

Uff Da
Forum Supporter
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
707
Location
29°34'10.9"N 97°57'50.7"W
First Name
Carl
Attempted four types of removal today, but wasn't able to break the cover loose.

Attempt #1 was with a torx bit. All I managed to do was round out the hole some more. The metal seems very soft.
torx_.jpg


Attempt #2 was with a borrowed extractor. Same result as the torx bit. Just a larger hole.
extractor_.jpg


Attempt #3 was drilling two holes and using a borrowed spanner wrench. The wrench fit well but slipped out as soon as a decent amount of pressure was applied. Maybe screws would hold better and then using a screwdriver might work.
spanner1_.jpg


spanner2_.jpg


Attempt #4 was to angle a punch, strike it to get the cover to loosen. You can see the angled hole in the picture above.

Will try to find suitable screws and try that method. Else I will remove the crank case cover and take it to the guys in the machine shop at work.
 

E.Marquez

Forum Supporter
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
3,746
Location
Kempner, TX
First Name
Erik
Attempted four types of removal today, but wasn't able to break the cover loose.

Attempt #1 was with a torx bit. All I managed to do was round out the hole some more. The metal seems very soft.
torx_.jpg


Attempt #2 was with a borrowed extractor. Same result as the torx bit. Just a larger hole.
extractor_.jpg


Attempt #3 was drilling two holes and using a borrowed spanner wrench. The wrench fit well but slipped out as soon as a decent amount of pressure was applied. Maybe screws would hold better and then using a screwdriver might work.
spanner1_.jpg


spanner2_.jpg


Attempt #4 was to angle a punch, strike it to get the cover to loosen. You can see the angled hole in the picture above.

Will try to find suitable screws and try that method. Else I will remove the crank case cover and take it to the guys in the machine shop at work.
Where are you at?
Your welcome to bring it over, I'll remove the cap while you get your vehicle turned around. It will be ready by the time your ready to load up and go back home.
>
Not kidding :giveup:
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
193
Location
Fort Worth, TX
I could be wrong but....my recollection is the stock plugs were never polished/shiny. Whoever replaced it may have put red threadlocker on it.
 

E.Marquez

Forum Supporter
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
3,746
Location
Kempner, TX
First Name
Erik
I could be wrong but....my recollection is the stock plugs were never polished/shiny. Whoever replaced it may have put red threadlocker on it.
You have a point, anything is possible... Hit it with a heat gun, get it to 200-250c that will loosen any anaerobic thread lock likely to have been used.
 

WhiskeySmith

Uff Da
Forum Supporter
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
707
Location
29°34'10.9"N 97°57'50.7"W
First Name
Carl
Where are you at?
Your welcome to bring it over, I'll remove the cap while you get your vehicle turned around. It will be ready by the time your ready to load up and go back home.
>
Not kidding :giveup:
Thank you for the gracious offer. I would love to have a professional work on this. However, given that this shouldn't be that big of a deal and I'm 2.5 hours south of you without an easy method to get the bike to you, I'll keep trying to get this done here at home.

I could be wrong but....my recollection is the stock plugs were never polished/shiny. Whoever replaced it may have put red threadlocker on it.
I brought in someone with actual mechanic skills (my BIL) and his words were "Dang (language cleaned up) this thing is tight! It didn't even budge." We are wondering if the rubber o-ring is missing or has deteriorated and allowed the cover to tighten. Here is a picture of the new cover. It was advertised as a Suzuki branded part. You can see that the finish is nothing like the cover currently on the bike.

new-cover_.jpg
 

WoodButcher

Admin
Joined
May 20, 2004
Messages
12,142
Location
Austin, TX
First Name
Rusty
Last Name
Myers
Guaranteed there is no thread lock on it by me. This is my old bike and I had problems with the previous cover so I was very careful putting the new one on. Part came as a Suzuki part number from Bike Bandit.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
193
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Thank you for the gracious offer. I would love to have a professional work on this. However, given that this shouldn't be that big of a deal and I'm 2.5 hours south of you without an easy method to get the bike to you, I'll keep trying to get this done here at home.



I brought in someone with actual mechanic skills (my BIL) and his words were "Dang (language cleaned up) this thing is tight! It didn't even budge." We are wondering if the rubber o-ring is missing or has deteriorated and allowed the cover to tighten. Here is a picture of the new cover. It was advertised as a Suzuki branded part. You can see that the finish is nothing like the cover currently on the bike.

new-cover_.jpg
This photo is the OEM DR650 cover...

The one you're trying to remove was likely for the Boulevard S40. It had a polished stator cover. Another possibility is dissimilar metal corrosion. In any case, heat is still your friend.
 

WhiskeySmith

Uff Da
Forum Supporter
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
707
Location
29°34'10.9"N 97°57'50.7"W
First Name
Carl
...In any case, heat is still your friend.
I don't have the equipment to heat it up so will reach out to the machine shop at work and some other local mechanics that might be in a position to help.

This cover is now like the boulder in the mining camp's stream that Hull Barret was trying to break in the movie Pale Rider. "...it's like this rock and me have kind of an agreement. I'm going to do it in, or it's going to do me in."
 
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
4,181
Location
New Braunfels Texas
First Name
Buddy
Last Name
Slover
Joined
Feb 1, 2014
Messages
910
Location
Republic of Texas
Like Marquez stated :

My experience is it not thread binding, it is the cap edge seating against the case, and perhaps some binding in threads as well...I Just know , no amount of penetration fluid has ever helped...and once the center hex is damaged, it takes literally longer to walk over and chuck op a drill bit then it does to drill a small divot and loosen it with a single strike of the punch and hammer.. Less time if you use a chisel but you have to get the angle right and be confident to hit the chisel hard. Words apparently are not conveying how easy this is....
To each his own, do what works for you :giveup:
It is easy to get out. Same thing happened to me.
I drilled a hole in it, not all the way through, and used punch to break it loose.

When you go back in with new one, put some zinc based antiseize on that rubber gasket, just a bit along the outside of it where that flange is.

You do not use lock-tight on it, you have to take it off maintenance.
Which for me every 3 months or so.

Does not need to be tight, just snug.
What happens is you compress the o-ring and the flange of the plug binds against the cover.
 
Joined
Jul 6, 2004
Messages
3,798
Location
Santa Fe, TX
First Name
Tom
Last Name
Lowry
Try this: Take a drift punch and hammer and with medium force, tap around the parameter of the plug several passes. Find the next size SAE Allen wrench and drive it into the hole and see if you can spin it out.
 
Last edited:
Top