Moos Easy-Pull Clutch System

[_RG_]

Few years ago the clutch on my ole KLR (2007) started slipping. I replaced the plates and just to make sure it got the message decided to put in heavier springs. Good news is when the clutch engaged with those heavier springs it did so in a most manly fashion. Not so good news is my left arm wasn't quite up to the manly level of those new springs. Working the clutch became a handful. But, we adapt.

Recent acquisition of the easy pull clutch thingy sounded promising. So... let's see how it stacks up in real life. Looks like the going price right now is about $55. Don't know if that includes shipping.

Let's dig right in. The entrails of it look like this...

Notice the three holes lined up at the bottom. Each of these is a pivot point for the lever. The little pin can be moved around for changing it's pull qualities.

So how do we know if it actually does anything to help us pull a clutch easier? And if it really does something remotely beneficial, how do we know what's good, better or best when it comes to each setting? Relying on RG's leftarmometer and unbiased appraisal would be pretty much akin to getting out the ouija board or rubbing our magic 8 ball.

Pay no attention to the refrigerator. I don't remember it's contents influencing the development of our highly scientific clutch pull measuring device shown here.

Let's see what we're starting out with for clutch pull before tearing up anything.

Feeling my pain now are ya? 18 flipping pounds just to pull in the bloomin clutch. Think of a joyful day of riding with that going on.

OK...installing the gadget goes: Take the clutch cable out of the hand lever and stuff it into the lower position of the gadget lever. Then stuff the gadget cable into the clutch hand lever. Hunt up the triple antibiotic ointment and apply liberally to multiple minor lacerations.

Here is the movement of the lever... that's all it does.

So let's tinker a bit. Here we start with the pivot pin in it's lowest position.

Alrighty... 11 pounds seems better than 18. Let's keep going. Moving the pin to another position is easy...just pull it out and poke it back in. Let's try the middle position.

Cool! We've cut another pound off the pull. Now for the top position.

Looks like we dropped another pound. Nothing dramatic but it's progress.

Here's the gadget all buttoned up and ready to ride.

Challenges: (1) Had to reroute the clutch cable to bring it into alignment with the clutch handle (no big deal). (2) hooking up the cables is fiddly...not difficult but tedious as you have several additional inches and another clutch cable now. (3) I'm thinking this thing is made in Spain. The instructions are in English and Sho Nuf Spanish. Whatever, they could stand some improvement.

How does it feel? Way smoother pull and dramatically reduced pulling force. Pulling the clutch is no longer a handful...it's a two finger deal now.
How good? This gadget does not make a ratty ole KLR clutch feel like a KTM 1190's... but it's a huge improvement over where we started.

Is it worth the price? It is for me but then you know the story of how my clutch (and left hand) were in critically unusual need of help. YMMV.

 

[Johnf3]

Nuthin is free though. The mechanical advantage gained results in a longer throw or period of engagement if you will. That may work out where you like it better too. You just have to ride it and see.

On my old KX 500 back in the day, I cut the arm where the cable attached at the case and lengthened it and rewelded it back together. Made the clutch easier to pull but messed up the engagement point.

Last time I saw your old KLR, we were looking for the muffler in the weeds on a random road in old Mexico. Man time flies, but that sure was a fun day. Never did find the muffler.

 

[Rydah]

As usual, excellent work, RG. Nice use of what is obviously a well calibrated piece of scientific equipment, and a very controlled environment. None of that silly, Euro "nannymeter" measures either; good ol' pounds! That I can understand!

 

[Thrasherg]

Just remember that whilst it reduces the amount of force that your hand has to exert on the clutch lever, it also reduces the amount of movement at the clutch end, so you may find that when you pull the clutch lever in fully, that the clutch is still dragging (due to insufficient movement at the clutch to completely disengage the clutch plates). This could make finding neutral (when stationary) much harder, just something to check and keep in mind.

 

[_RG_]

Just remember that whilst it reduces the amount of force that your hand has to exert on the clutch lever, it also reduces the amount of movement at the clutch end, so you may find that when you pull the clutch lever in fully, that the clutch is still dragging (due to insufficient movement at the clutch to completely disengage the clutch plates). This could make finding neutral (when stationary) much harder, just something to check and keep in mind.

That right there was my biggest concern. As Johnf3 said...nuthin is free. Levers giveth and they taketh away. In this case it works properly. Thankfully. First thing I did was slowly rode up a steep hill while occasionally engaging and releasing the clutch... waiting for the slightest indication of slip. On the other end I did the same clutch sensing while standing still at idle and feeling for the slightest indication of partial engagement. All is good...so far.

 

[kubotamiketx]

I am curious what that braided metal cable has to do with a motorcycle clutch in the first place? Don't all controls use hydraulics?

Yea, just kidding . . .