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Muffler packing...

Well it says not to use Home Depot fiberglass - that is what I did. :giveup:
 
The FMF needs packing? I've only been running it for 30,000miles.....how soon will it need packing? :lol2:

When it blows out the back and into the rider behind you making him think you are plucking a chicken while riding. haha Decibel level goes quickly from mild to wild and resonates like John Entwistle playing Eminence Front in concert.

RG here's the ceramic packing material I mentioned to you.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-silencer-exhaust-muffler-packing-1-thick-x-12-X-24-4-stroke-kit-/121336030235?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c4030e41b&vxp=mtr#ht_2364wt_808

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Thanks SB. That looks like some interesting stuff. May be just what I need and it might have a much better flavor for the rider behind me next time. :mrgreen:
 
Thanks SB. That looks like some interesting stuff. May be just what I need and it might have a much better flavor for the rider behind me next time. :mrgreen:

I know where, well the general area alongside the road, in Mexico where one could find some used muffler packing material.:eek2:
 
Thanks for posting the muffler info RG. Good stuff to know.
Enjoyed riding with you this past weekend. :rider:
 
It says 4-strokes are too hot to use Home Depot stuff. But it didn't say anything about 2-strokes. So I assume it's okay for 2-strokes.

Real muffler packing is completely different than Home Depot insulation. It is a much denser mat/weave, and is very cheap so no reason not to use the right stuff.

As far as heat and two strokes, I have seen hard-ridden two stokes with oily packing material in the muffler get hot enough to smoke for 20 minutes after the bike was shut off. Two stoke expansion chambers don't get as hot as a four stroke header, but the mufflers can get plenty hot when ridden hard.

The other important thing, I did not read the article--may have mentioned it, is to make sure all the tiny holes in the perforated metal tube are completely clear. These are usually plugged up in a two stroke, not as often in a four stroke. Easiest way is to get the tube red hot with a torch. The oily carbon will burn right off and you are ready to repack with fresh packing.
 
Nice post, I recently installed an FMF and read it should be repacked. Instructions were vague though. Good to know.
 
Real muffler packing is completely different than Home Depot insulation. It is a much denser mat/weave, and is very cheap so no reason not to use the right stuff.

That is why I only have ever used the real stuff as well. For the money there is no reason not to.
 
Old thread I know. Anyone with first hand experience with both FMF 4-stroke fiberglass packing material as compared to ceramic muffler packing such as Thermal Zero or the equivalent.

Ceramic Muffler Packing

FMF 4-Stroke Muffler Packing

Many of the less expensive aftermarket "straight thru" exhausts such as Delkevic have a perforated stainless steel tube that is wrapped in stainless steel screen. The tube runs directly from can inlet to outlet. Then the packing material is wrapped tightly around the tube.

In my last muffler repack, I sleeved a secondary tube of expanded metal around the OEM tube that provides an air gap around the circumference of the OEM tube. My thinking is that perhaps with the additional 30mm of air gap between the OEM tube and the exhaust packing then the packing may material will run cooler and last a few more hours. The sound seems about the same either way (so far). I dunno but worth a try. FWIW, FMF told me it would make no difference. Any thoughts?
 
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