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Mummy Riders Mextrek #9 Ride Report

Sunday, Santiago N.L to El Naranjo S.L.P., 320 miles:

Day 2 we headed out of Santiago at a slower than normal pace. On the road at around 10:30 or 11:00 after the worlds slowest breakfast service, we headed south on the ever so lively Mex 85, a 6 lane highway most akin to the video game Frogger, south through Montemorelos (home of Fonda Miguel...Hi Mike), Linares (Charles' grandmother's birthplace) and south towards the reportedly dangerous city of Ciudad Victoria. My little group maintained a 70 or so average and we were split up over and over again. Nearing Ciudad Victoria we regrouped for a roadside soda and all input Mex 101 on the GPS towards Tula. Well all except for a couple who missed this gem and took the newer bypass around Victoria. Definitely a planning error on my part. Not knowing each day if we would be in the promised deluge and taking a direct route or having the lucky unpromised sunny day where we could see and explore more, we had to do trip planning day by day, hour by hour.

I am taking a stab in the dark, but the new bypass south of hwy 101 seems to have severely limited the use of 101, as well as its upkeep. We had a train of 10 bikes and the "crash truck" coming over the multiple, amazing, scenic passes. Tim B and I were running a sorta spirited pace up front, regularly regrouping every 10 or 15 miles to be sure the group didn't scatter, keep the group pace reasonable, and head count. As we came over the last high pass the road turned really poopy. Lots of loose gravel on the outer 2 to 3 feet of roadway. I found a good stop to regroup about 1 mile past the pass and we waited. And waited. Our last 2 riders had not caught up. Second to last came around the bend, without his riding buddy, saying his buddy had stopped to take pictures. I headed back up the pass to find said rider took a lowside spill in a downhill decreasing radius turn,..one with a eye catching previously bent guardrail and lots of gravel on the outer 3rd. Bad luck, gravel, and a target fixating scary drop and bent rail all conspired to ruin a Mextrek. Bike was fine. Rider, clearly, had a shoulder injury. Nothing glaring, just the type of painful look in his eyes and the knowledge he had already had multiple shouklder repairs in the past that said he probably wasn't riding any further. This was our first pass of the trip, one of tens or hundreds to come, and I wanted to cry for my buddy. Luckily he had full extraction insurance, they cabbed him to SLP, flew him out, had a personal assistant to help him. His bike was ridden back to Santiago by our gracious moto riding hotel manager George of El Paraiso de Rio in El Naranjo, then Abisha Brakefield (aka A.B.) who could not make the trip, went to Santiago on business and brought it stateside with a cancelled TVIP. Last I heard AB dropped it off a few days ago in Houston. Charles and the truck got our rider and bike to the hospital, then to El Naranjo, safely. Job well done guys. Much appreciated.

So with a late start, a crash, and miles to go we regrouped in Tula. Restaurante Casino on the square was our hotspot on the Run Down in 2016 and it served up a nice late lunch. From Tula to El Naranjo we navigated some nice, cool mountain passes on Mex 66, then south where we eventually landed in some fields straight out of any Vietnam war movie. I was looking for Charlie everywhere. (turns out Charlie is always at Bar Fly, silly me, see bird pic above) Massively wide and flat fields of cane and corn surrounded by picturesque small mountains and hills. A northern intro to the Huasteca Region. Just enough clouds to keep temps at a reasonable level. A few miles out of town our group split. I went ahead to check in at the hotel, El Pariaso del Rio. The other half headed to El Meco falls and Bar Sundial. El Meco is a 25 meter fall with boat rides to the bottom, cliff diving, swimming, beers and palapa seafood. Very tranquil. not heavily tourested on a Sunday at 6pm. The water was absolutely perfect, green, inviting. We took a 25 peso boat ride, where we paddled, and went up to the falls. Steve even climbed under the falls in a cave. Most of us did a bit of cliff diving. Others chose to hold down the bar scene with cold Dos Equis.


After 3 years of waterparks, rivers, rainstorms, toilet drops, and other times of hour and hours of water resistance my silly old phone decided El Meco was a great place to die. Here is its final moments of life with a SIM card, thrusting me into a wonderful position of leading a ride with only wifi capability. Luckily my backup phone was in perfectly good working order, in my backpack, in a tub, in Paul's warehouse in Houston. Nice....too much packing and repacking last minute...


We were all satisfied, our thirst for adventure momentarily quenched, and we rode to the hotel in El Naranjo around 8:30 for a waiting meal at the huge amazing palapa restaurant on the river. In Mexico, when a restaurant closes at 8, no problem. We promise 18 hungry humans, who will also run up a bar tab, They agree to stay open late, 9 or 10. We dine on amazing Paradillas of seafood, beef, and chicken. Sip tequilla and some homemade local specialty mood enhancing mescal until after midnight, tip very well, then retire to our quaint cabins on the river bank.

Day two had been long, at times very hot, stressful, and over 320 miles. but in the same light, Day 2 rewarded with great roads, amazing food, a waterfall, a cold swim, and scenery not found often back home. And very clearly the bonds of lifelong friendship began to form. The kind that will last way beyond the crashing of the servers holding this ride report, when the pictures are distant memories, and Mexico is no longer the relatively unmolested rapidly developing country that we have the pleasure of experiencing now. 4 of me and my newest and oldest amigos shared a cabin. Snoring in harmony for about 4 hours of sleep.
 
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A few El Meco and Tula pics:

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Here's some pics I took of Day 2

Leaving Santiago
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Late Lunch
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Here, we're about 10 miles from our village,
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so this is where
Thomas breaks off to take those who wants to go check in 1st ...

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SOme of the rooms have this view :
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Dinner served here:

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House specialty plate for 2:
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Group Therapy in session:
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Monday: El Naranjo SLP to Xilitla: ~150 miles.

After stuffing ourselves till midnight with food and drink we made a plan to have breakfast served at 8 AM at a local restaurant on the main street of El Naranjo. This was my 3rd visit to El Naranjo and funny to say I still only know this town by the river and its very very ugly main street with one unnecessary, and unnecessarily slow, street light. Crisscrossing the small town 6 or 8 times to get cash from the ATM, arrange taxi for our injured rider, find breakfast, take others to breakfast, etc... I really began to have that one red light and it's light timer, clearly on Mexican time.

Breakfast was amazing, and thanks to George a whopping 100 pesos for all you could eat and drink, no limits. $5.50 is probably a higher price in that small town, but our hosts were freindly and inviting, the food scrumtious, and our view of the one dusty red light in town, amazing! Medivac services a green light we agreed that George would ride the KTM to Santiago. Mr. Yussapov is the ultimate host. He runs the water portion of the hotel services which have staff at El Meco. Boating, swimming, tubing, cliff diving, etc.. With 3 waterfalls withing 15 minutes of the hotel there is tons to do with George. He also handles online hotel bookings, restaurant arrangements, and brews a mean homemade concoction we sampled after dinner. He speaks a bit of english, and he is a rider and bend over backwards for strangers nice guy. And he is also a practicing lawyer in El Naranjo! If you are headed to El Naranjo contact me for his Whatsapp before you start your planning.

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After the bike got to Santiago, AB broughtwill bring it home. With the plan in action I prepared to depart at something like our now usual 11:00 AM.
30 seconds before putting on the my helmet the call came in: Rider down....
 
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My friend Dave from Albuquerque is new to Mexico. He is also new to riding. We bought him a pretty ragged out adv bike with the hopes of it surviving ONE trip to Mexico. And as I always preach, ride something, anything, first. Then borrow some friend's bikes. Make a more informed choice. Then actually buy YOUR first motorcycle. That first bike is just a reconnaissance flip job. Kinda like your first real crush. You don't have to take pictures, bring her home to meet mom and dad, and if you forget flowers or 1 week anniversaries you are still an okay guy. Dave's junior high prom date is a 2004 Vstrom 1000 with fueling issues. The good news is that Dave picked up riding very quickly. He did a stellar job on Day 1 negotiating 500 hairpin turns. On Day 2 he likewise did a stellar job negotiating the first turn out of El Naranjo. It was the sharper, slightly tighter, second turn out of town that got him!!! I rode the 1 mile to meet him. Dave did a stellar job when he crashed. He ran slightly wide and rather than panic, he rode down a 4 foot embankment, avoided the largest of the Children of the Corn, and was 90% thru saving it when out of the blue there were 2 huge rocks in the ditch. A badly twisted ankle and a not so happy Chicken Under the Sea Dance date were the worst of it. The bike was in pretty horrible shape. Everything forward of the bars destroyed. Crash guards bent like light poles in a tornado. So we field stripped ( I use this term cause we were squarely in the middle of Apocalypse Now territory) in the cornfield ditch. Got the bars to being able to turn 10 degrees in either direction. Bypassed the destroyed clutch start switch. Rode it back up the embankment. And fearing enemy ambush in the open we retreated to the shade of a tienda, with shade trees, on the outskirts of town.

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Mexico is a land of resources. In 3 minutes we had a 6 foot pry bar from the back of a toyota truck. All forward panels yanked we hit infrastructure hard. 10 minutes in we had lights located, wiring restored, full bar movement. 30 minutes in we were back in kinda one piece with everything functioning. Then the horror...the hydraulic clutch lever was gonna survive maybe 5 more shifts. A quick test...it sheared. So I grabbed another Toyota truck passing by. Happened to have a Katy TX sticker on it. Owner had lived about 5 blocks from Everett off Mason road for 10 years. 2 stops in town, 4 passes of the dang red light district, and we found a Kenworth repair shop. 45 minutes later we had a one piece non adjustable horribly fabricated clutch lever. I was 50 pesos lighter. By 2PM Dave was ready to roll. Woo Hoo!
 
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The activities of much of the rest of the group were a blur to me. Everett had a brake issue, so he joined us at the same tienda and wrenched on the DRNKY for a couple of hours. Two pit crews battling for resources and talent.

The others headed to Tamul falls. Dave, Steve, Everett, and Zara, and Farnham and I headed south at around 3PM. Luckily it was only 125 miles of riding to Xilitla. but the day's plan of Tamul then Las Pozas was shot. We settled on Tamul. Las Pozas could wait for the morning. Dave and I took a breather and told the rest we'd meet at the falls. Dave and I went to the bottom, where you boat ride up. Everyone else on the trip went to the top, to a gps location Steve had mapped. They won. The pools and views at the top are amazing. A few others pics from Monday's activities.


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Dawn at a roadside stand in the Huasteca (Canyon) region, closer to Xilitla:

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Dao on the top of Tamul:

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Looking down the 150 foot drop:

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Tamul is an odd waterfall. one river drops from the top into another river passing by. A T intersection of water unlike any I've seen before.

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Our little 2 room cabin on the river in El Naranjo:

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Charles' pic from an early morning trip to Minas Viejas waterfall, about 8 miles south of El Naranjo. Hard to tell, but this is like 40 meters tall.

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My trusty CBR500 RR/XX at Sundial bar at El Meco falls, El Naranjo. 45 MPG at 80 MPH with chunky knobbies, full bags, and chubby me. And tucked in that big pipe is a quiet muffler with catalytic converter. Green and adventurous, just not too adventurous.

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Bamboo at TBD, LOL

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After swimming at the base of Cascada de Tamul, Dave and I shot straight zigzag through some pretty darn amazing scenery through the vilage of Tanchanaco the amazingly pristine and well kept Puebla Magica of Aquismon. Eventually, with sunset looking, we rejoined Mex 85, now a 2 lane buttery smooth highway thought the small mountains and canyons. Tons of roadside tourist stands meant we were close to Xilitla. We turned onto Mex 120 and started the ascent towards Xilitla and Las Pozas. At the 13km mark the rains started. At 5 km outside Xilitla the rouds turned to ice. We were sideways many times trying to maintain a 25 mph pace. Just as we got to Xilitla the rain was enough to wash the slippery layer off and we ascended the crazy steep network of roads, found the main square, and parked under a balcony at the hotel.

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5 minutes later the rain came full strength. Didn't stop for hours and hours. And we realized Steve, Zara, Everett, and Farhan were still out in it. OMG. Brutal downpour. Power glitching out every 3 or 5 minutes. Beers on the balcony watching the insanity. We made out way under balconies to a decent family style restaurant. The remaining 4 checked in about and hour later. Drenched, but in good spirits. Tequila, mariachis, and food. This was a short riding day, but a long experience day. We all went to bed early.

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Tomorrow, 8 am, Las Pozas:

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The view from the top and view from the bottom are both spectacular. A reason to go back! This youtube video shows both views of Tamul: Fast forward to 30 seconds if you are time limited:

 
If you have never visited Las Pozas, here is a primer video. Now is the time to visit. Before too long Mexico will achieve, and succeed, and the ropes will go up, the safety standards called into play, the monuments restricted.


If you're intrigued, watch the documentary of Sir Edwards James and you'll discover just how nutty it all was. He had Salvador Dali living in his guest bedroom. The dream and magic are still alive. But Las Posaz is crumbling.

 
Tuesday: Xilitla to San Miguel De Allende: 196 miles. 20,000 turns.

Hey Mummy Riders, Who made it to Las Pozas? What pictures can you add? I stayed in town to drink coffee, shop, and be lazy. I knew the impending ride was gonna be a long one.
 
Las Posas was everything I expected and then more. I have seen pictures from friend’s trips but you have to experience it yourself to really experience it.
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Our group arrived at Las Posas at 5:30 and it took os a couple of minutes to change to more comfortable gear. We approached the ticket counter and were informed that the place had just closed for the day. We promptly decided to come back the next day. We were there by 9:00 am and gone by 10:00am. We had to ride to SMA.
 
Living Xilitlia to SMA. 120+ miles of twisties, some of them very, very tight. This is just the beginning since I don't have a video editor installed.

 
Nice Videeeeeooos, Edwin, esp the Gopro of that dirt road to Cola de Caballo. I could taste that sweet dirt through my monitor!
 
Coming up from Santiago to El Naranjo our group took a little detour to check out Balcon de Montezuma, The road down to the site was a nice type 2 road.

 
Tuesday: Xilitla, S.L.P to San Miguel De Allende, Guanajuato, 210 miles. Day 4:

Day 4 was a big riding day. Highway 120 from Xilitla to very near Penamiller. Rain or shine we had to make tracks towards San Miguel. Our group scattered for breakfast, some going to Las Pozas, others just hanging around town, others doing a bit of wrenching. Some were just taking a minute to dry gear.

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Farhan had a minor get off in the torrential rains and mud last night, needed a lever bracket. Everett woke up to a flat tire. Both were in the late night crew....yuk

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The trip to Las Pozas was quick, couple of hours. Rain was still a very real possibility and the clouds were menacing.

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A single shot of Las Pozas. There is so much to say...not in this post.

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Cafe inside Las Posaz. Yes, you can eat good food there.

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So in 4 or 5 small groups we tentaively headed West on 120. It was slick wet roads one minute, then dry warm roads the next, then hilly damp woods, then hot open stretches of curve. Up and down, in and out of clouds. Pretty darn nice riding. I never actually felt any wetness thru my mesh jacket. A surreal ride. Too many turns to count. 10,000 or so.

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Using the knowledge of previous explorers we knew that taking the exit off 120 just shy of Penamiller putus on the shortest and most scenic route to San Miguel. Well, most of knew this. Others like not reading and riding highways and toll roads. SteveM, ThomasM, and TimB made good time, riding safe. No drama, no checkpoints, no gas stops. At Penamiller we decided to have an beer, and early afternoon snack, and take a few minutes to regroup. Solo DavidM found his way to Penamiller, the road construction that shut down the main square, and doubled back to the cut off where he found another group intent on riding the interstates, lol. We lounged in a small pool hall, then behind the local church to chew on the best chicken street tacos ever. Plus some fresh peaches and Mexico Cokes. And another beer. Leaving Penamiller we headed west out of town on the lower road. About 10 miles in I knew we had mad a wrong turn. I had taken this route once before. TimB knew we had made a wrong turn as well. Thomas and Steve playing follow the leader just followed along. Apparantly no one was checking GPS.

What felt like many hours later we regrouped with the route we were supposed to take. In 1 or 1.5 hours we had ridden maybe 40 miles of southwest then northwest highway. In 40 miles we had seen about 8 people, 2 cars, a truck. We were on a road long forgotten. Small trees in the cracks, littered rocks, no roadsigns. If you ever want to get a feel for Life After Humans and Post Apocalyptic Mexico, this is the place. A break down or out of gas situation could leave you stranded for a long while. We breezed through at 7/10th pace, totally enjoying the people-less countryside and car less road. For a VERY LONG TIME. It was unexpected and new. A great little side trip. Highly recomended.


After regaining our intended route towards San Miguel we settled in to a straight road kinda pace. Then ahead of us lights, flashers. Were we getting pulled over? Nope, a downed bike. Rider taken by ambulance to the hospital. Bike totalled. Driver elderly, turned in front of 6 bikes with 50 headlights blazing into his face. The crowd of onlookers was very interested in details. Turns out 100% of the 30 people lived in the nearby village. 100% were related to the old man. It was a hard hit. We expected the rider to no survive. A cross 20 feet closer to the intersection honored a previous rider taken out in similar fashion at the same exact spot. Our man had flown an extra 20 feet further. But he had full gear. The best you can buy. And he hit the only soft ground at a 45 degree slope, turning the roadway side into a miraculous landing ramp. Edwin (mudmissle) Dawn and Charles were with the rider in a nearby town. Rider was talking. Amazing.

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I like Soccer. Crus Azul is a good team. Cruz Roja is a more practical profession. Thanks Cruz Roja!

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Continuing on the San Miguel, only 30 miles away, we checked in at Posada de las Monjas (house of the nuns). Private parking lot, great rooms, and 3 blocks to the main square. News trickled in...concussion, but no major internal injuries or broken bones. Sweet Jesus this man can take a hit.

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Note, we didn't got o dinner at Los Milagros. We will next time. TimmyB had a special request from his wife to eat at Tio Lucas, and I have a soft spot for the ceasar salad and garlic beef. So we changed plans on the fly.

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After some hectic moments checking everyone in we decided on Tio Lucas for dinner. A block away. I've been twice. Both times a solid meal, expensive, and kiss your booty service.

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Party of 18...no problem on a Tuesday night. Only half full.

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And an added bonus, my younger brother Matthew and his friend Michelle arrived via bus from De Effe, aka D.F. aka Distrito (SP) Federal, aka Federal District, aka Mehico City, aka as Mexico City when in Texas. They joined us for after dinner drinks. A welcome sight. I hardly ever see Matthew. I live in Phoenix, he's in San Antonio. 1006 mile drive door to door. The last time I saw him before San Miguel was in Crystal Beach, Bolivar Peninsula, aka Galveston. It had been, oh, 7 or 8...

....days. Hey again Brother!!

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Matthew lived in Guanajuato in 2000 - 2003 era and we go every summer. He is fluent. He knows the language, like a native. He knows the culture, better than the Mexicans. He knows the history. He knows the people in town who make things happen. Matthew and I hope to buy a house in GTO very soon and throw down some summertime roots for the next 30 or 40 years. This is my bucket list. Pretty much 99.9% of my bucket list. Then there is riding Baja, Italy and Greece, Vietnam, China, Korea, Columbia...but 99% of my intentions are GTO directed. Matthew is a professor, I am funemployed. Summers in Guanajuato beat summers in Texas and Arizona. More on that later. Just know summers in Phoenix beat summers in Texas. Clearly, its a DRY HEAT!!! Enough on that for now....it wasn't sweater weather, but it was close in San Miguel.

Well, after dinner we went on a short walk around the well lit, beautiful, touristy, historical plazas. Then visited a sorta crazy bar. Ate more street food at 1 AM cause it smelled good and we like punishing ourselves. The past 4 long days took were taking their toll. Guys dropped like flies. We were only 4 or 5 strong before even midnight. I don't remember walking home or going to bed. Exhausting. I wasn't drinking but maybe 2 or 3 cervezas. Just dog tired. Late night pic of San Miguel. A must do thing in the area. Prettiest square you can imagine. No reason to worry about tomorrow with only 60 miles to zip over to GTO.

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Tomorrow, Las Grutas and arrival in Guanajuato.

Anyone else want to pitch in on Route 120, Las Pozas, Xilitla, Penamiller, or San Miguel?
 

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Amazing that the rider of the crashed bike was not hurt worse :shock: Very glad he was wearing good gear! It is no guarantee, but it sure stacks the odds in your favor!
 
I hope to make the next one. Missed too many.
 
Day 5: Wednesday, San Miguel de Allende GTO to Guanajuato GTO 60 miles.

Waking up, whenever, felt great. We sorta congregated at the square, a sidewalk cafe with shade. A quick trip into the msin church when it opened. It is pretty nice.

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Lots of Gringos around.

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An english language newspaper even.

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And the end of culture....

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We had a light schedule:. Do whatever you want, but be sure to be at the hot springs, La Gruta, at 5pm. I loaded up around 12 or so and said goodbye to Johnny at Las Monhas.

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Charles and Dawn catching an Uber to the springs. Uber in mexico is 1/3 price, and nice.

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la Gruta is great.
Green grass, warm pools, the ultra hot cave / giant igloo, drinks and food on the lawn. At 530 we suited up and headed to Guanajuato. A beautiful ride through Delires Hidalgo and the forest ending on 25 miles of two lane twisties dropping in from the Vslencia mine side of town.


With 1000 wrong turns possible and a wrong turn meaning a 15 minute loop, Steve led the traon and we rode the mase of tunnrls and streets straight to our hostel. No wrong turns, no issues. We grabbed gear, stashed in in our hostel, and took our bikes to secure parking about a 1/4 mile quick walk away. Riding in to gto is a big tight pack of 12 bikes was actually super cool. Various bike noises bouncing off tunnel walls.

Here is us walking in a tunnel to give you sn idea


And ken block drifyong in a tunnel:. Start at 8:15 mark...


It took a while to find and get access to our 2 airbnb"s. Since google maps is likely to send you to a tunnel 50 feet under, these are how an air bnb host gets you to the casa...

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So cleaned up, enjoying the airbnb view...

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We met on the steps of the theater at 8.

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Then the night got fuzzy. Drinks, bar to bar.

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Then touched "the face" a tradition in my brother trips. More later...

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Zara making us laugh


And Dave on his busted up ankle


Then drank Mescal at rooftop bars. Got really silly. Danced. Shots. Mescal. Wandering. Maybe tacos. Maybe more mescal. Not sure....



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We all kinda felt like this pic of Everett and Zara around 3 am.

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A great day. I skipped a ton of stuff. But ya'll get the idea.
 
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