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My WR switches

Monica

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Finally getting to my switches on the WR. Moving the blinkers and hi/low to the right
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Using a HDB dual switch perch and mini toggle switches
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Soldered the wires. Used a heat sink to prevent melting the plastic. Not pretty but functional
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Both waiting on heat shrink - on/off/on and on/on - next step is tapping in to the stock harness
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Mounting the switches into the perch will involve this and a technique suggested by Gary
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More to come...
 
Those look like the little 3 way switches I got off of Amazon for another project. I found the quality on them to be rather disappointing.


I was messing around with my RC controller and thought, man these are NICE switches. I looked and you can order replacement switches for the transmitter. I ordered one up but haven't had a chance to play with it, still, quite a bit more expensive, but if you are only ordering two of them, it could be worth it for the higher quality. The switch is a little bigger which might work better for gloved hands and the action feels better.


Should be able to desolder the lower board or it could be handy for a more flush mounted solution.

2019-09-03%2009.27.31-L.jpg


Thought I'd toss this out there before you get too involved.
 
Nice! I can’t wait to see the final product. I am going to do the same thing with my kdx and I am liking the moldable glue idea. You seem to be on a great path. I will probably be maybe, sorta kinda stealing your idea once it’s done..[emoji41]
Are you done yet, are you done yet?? [emoji2957]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Those look like the little 3 way switches I got off of Amazon for another project. I found the quality on them to be rather disappointing.


I was messing around with my RC controller and thought, man these are NICE switches. I looked and you can order replacement switches for the transmitter. I ordered one up but haven't had a chance to play with it, still, quite a bit more expensive, but if you are only ordering two of them, it could be worth it for the higher quality. The switch is a little bigger which might work better for gloved hands and the action feels better.


Should be able to desolder the lower board or it could be handy for a more flush mounted solution.

View attachment 242464

Thought I'd toss this out there before you get too involved.
Aww, now someone tells me! :doh:
But nah, not Amazon. lol Electronic supply house. Hopefully they last. Those ones you linked look interesting with the wires coming out at 90*. Thank you for the link. I may order a couple. Swapping in would be easy, add a bullet connector inline to the wires I'd already have soldered in place. I don't mind soldering on switches, now desoldering - that's the devil's work.



Nice! I can’t wait to see the final product. I am going to do the same thing with my kdx and I am liking the moldable glue idea. You seem to be on a great path. I will probably be maybe, sorta kinda stealing your idea once it’s done..[emoji41]
Are you done yet, are you done yet?? [emoji2957]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
lol not yet - had to sleep
This will be the third bike doing this mod. Ideally moving switches is a matter of swapping over the blinker switch mount to the right like I was able to on the TTR, but street bikes with the full right side switch mount w the kill switch/start are already on the right. It takes a different approach. The TTR the only thing I needed to add was the Kill/Start and used the same HBD mount plus their push buttons (both momentary) so it was a matter of swapping them in place of the stock switches.
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I don't mind soldering on switches, now desoldering - that's the devil's work.
I fixed my computer monitor by desoldering the capacitors and soldering in new ones. I used a wick for that project and it worked beautifully. For some reason that's the last time I've managed to get the wick to work. Maybe it was the wick that came with the kit was better, I dunno. I didn't have ANY faith in the solder sucker, but that thing works very well. My latest project has had me screwing up some so the solder sucker has come in handy. Regardless, no problem, they are nice quality switches, definitely worth it.
 
I fixed my computer monitor by desoldering the capacitors and soldering in new ones. I used a wick for that project and it worked beautifully. For some reason that's the last time I've managed to get the wick to work. Maybe it was the wick that came with the kit was better, I dunno. I didn't have ANY faith in the solder sucker, but that thing works very well. My latest project has had me screwing up some so the solder sucker has come in handy. Regardless, no problem, they are nice quality switches, definitely worth it.
I've had decent luck with the wick. Never tried the solder sucker though.
Last last winter I redid the wiring on the TTRs dual sport kit. The wick sucked up a lot of bubble gum the PO did lol


Did a little more this morning but ima be honest, I'm procrastinating.

Shrink wrapped the individual connections then one big one
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I'm installing like this. Not certain it's the best solution but it'll hold for now
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Installed with a little loctite blue
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The rubber caps is for a little weather resistance, it isn't proofed.
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I don't like the arrangement but as i said, itll hold for now
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There's the gap in the back I need to fill
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And there's the moldable stuff packed in. Letting it cure now.
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Next up is putting it back on the bike and tapping in the wires....ie, what I'm procrastinating
 
Oh wow, that moldable stuff looks good. I'd have used hot glue but that looks much better.
 
Never seen that stuff, it does finish it nice. By the way, I am digging the Leather in the vice jaws. Mine have old beat up aluminum in them.
 
Oh wow, that moldable stuff looks good. I'd have used hot glue but that looks much better.
Thanks. Initially I was going to use hot glue, but I was looking for something I could relatively easy remove if I changed switches. I should be able to do that with this stuff.

Never seen that stuff, it does finish it nice. By the way, I am digging the Leather in the vice jaws. Mine have old beat up aluminum in them.
I found that moldable glue stuff googling around after I decided on this project. It was kind of a fluke, ended up looking at a random '10 best products around the house' article, it was listed there. Light bulb went off to try it here.

I love the leather in the vise, it's easy on my work pieces. Just grab some scrap veg tan 8-9oz should do. Wet mold it so it stays right angle and you're good.
 
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Thanks guys! Just wrapped up the wiring. Best news, everything works 😁

Connected wires using a standard T-splice
20190908_192652.jpg


Followed up with a quick touch of solder (far from good solder job)
20190908_203433.jpg


No pics of the wrap up, but there you see the loom that crosses over
20190908_212150.jpg
 
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Looking good. Now I’ll have to remember about that glue. I’m bound to need some...
 
Aww, now someone tells me! :doh:
But nah, not Amazon. lol Electronic supply house. Hopefully they last. Those ones you linked look interesting with the wires coming out at 90*. Thank you for the link. I may order a couple. Swapping in would be easy, add a bullet connector inline to the wires I'd already have soldered in place. I don't mind soldering on switches, now desoldering - that's the devil's work.




lol not yet - had to sleep
This will be the third bike doing this mod. Ideally moving switches is a matter of swapping over the blinker switch mount to the right like I was able to on the TTR, but street bikes with the full right side switch mount w the kill switch/start are already on the right. It takes a different approach. The TTR the only thing I needed to add was the Kill/Start and used the same HBD mount plus their push buttons (both momentary) so it was a matter of swapping them in place of the stock switches.View attachment 242530

That’s is slick!! I like it a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Looking good. Now I’ll have to remember about that glue. I’m bound to need some...
This stuff is pretty neat, it works very easy, a little softer than say JBweld putty. Probably the downside is it is a littls expensive. The little three pack I got was like $6-7. I used one piece above, just split it in half and there was plenty. I'm curious what the long term longevity will be, especially exposed to the elements. But it is such a small area and the glue is not being used as a weight bearing connection, I figure it should do fine for as long as I need it to. I'm expecting t'll absorb some vibration and ideally extend the lift of the switches on the perch.

I'm googling it now to see where else people have used it. But so far I can see having it in the house for some random projects.
 
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