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New RR for the WR250R

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Monica

Monica

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This morning I installed a new regulator rectifier to the WR250R. I'm doing it because I think it may be the culprit behind my no charge issue.

****** UPDATE 11/16 *******
Took bike to the HC500 last weekend where it ran no problems for 2 days of riding and 2 cold nights/mornings waking up. The running voltage remained at 14.4-14.5v.

I think my trouble may have been the RR afterall.

**************


The battery tested good, the stator tested and looked good and the RR tested good, but I suspect acts up once it gets hot. I did my research with some help from JT and the past threads on similar issues. It was suggested by JT to try an upgraded RR unit from roadstercycle.com. After some study that's what I did.

I ordered the FH020AA SuperKit

The FH020AA is close to same size, and same mounting holes as the stock unit
244562


Wired in the red and blk wires direct to bsttery and figured routing
244563


Used the crimp on butt connectors and heat shrinked it
244564


That's the main pieces. I haven't buttoned it up yet, I'm running an extended SAE connector from the BT pigtails up to the bars so the tank is loose. Will be an easy plce to use a voltage meter display as well as use usb or charge if necessary.

Probably a great result of the bike being down is i actually finally cleaned and lubed the chain.
244565
 
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Nice job and nice shop you have. What’s the black thing next to the vacuum with the red jack?
 
Great work. I really hope this gets you going. I keep looking for a ride repot that’s all smiles with the WR.
 
Was wondering where you got the short kickstand on the WR. Waiting on my rebuilt suspension from GORACE and i'm going to need one.
 
IvanFZ1 said:
Was wondering where you got the short kickstand on the WR. Waiting on my rebuilt suspension from GORACE and i'm going to need one.
Click to expand...
I modified a stock stand, found here post 32

www.twtex.com

Which motorcycle jack?

Hey dudes, I need a motorcycle jack for the WR. My lever lift one I use on the TTR won't work. After reading alot I've narrowed it to to two local choices: https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lbs-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-63397.html?_br_psugg_q=motorcycle+lift I really liked it. It was well...
www.twtex.com www.twtex.com
 
Monica, nice work. If I may make two suggestions.

Ditch the but connections for stator wires.. make an all new cable that goes from RR to the stator plug (bypassing OEM wiring harness all together)
And use a new cable for RR to battery, again bypassing the OEM wiring harness.

Something like this,

You will commonly get better charge voltage then reusing the OEM wiring harness, and the new cables make for a cleaner install with fewer failure points.

244621
 
E.Marquez said:
Monica, nice work. If I may make two suggestions.

Ditch the but connections for stator wires.. make an all new cable that goes from RR to the stator plug (bypassing OEM wiring harness all together)
And use a new cable for RR to battery, again bypassing the OEM wiring harness.

Something like this,

You will commonly get better charge voltage then reusing the OEM wiring harness, and the new cables make for a cleaner install with fewer failure points.

View attachment 244621
Click to expand...

Already done on the Red/Blk, it goes direct to the battery. RR to stator I cut the plug out and splice in the new pigtail. I'll stay that way unless it comes up with an issue. Originally I was going to solder the connection but working in that position I felt the quality of the job I could do with the kit supplied connectors would be better quality than my solder job. I'll monitor this modification, if I need to I can buy a new male/female connector and cut out the butts. The WRs original RR connection had all 5 connectors in one plug. The new RR had the stator wire and red/blk wires on two separate receptacles so a new connection was not avoidable.
 
Monica said:
Already done on the Red/Blk, it goes direct to the battery. RR to stator I cut the plug out and splice in the new pigtail. I'll stay that way unless it comes up with an issue. Originally I was going to solder the connection but working in that position I felt the quality of the job I could do with the kit supplied connectors would be better quality than my solder job. I'll monitor this modification, if I need to I can buy a new male/female connector and cut out the butts. The WRs original RR connection had all 5 connectors in one plug. The new RR had the stator wire and red/blk wires on two separate receptacles so a new connection was not avoidable.
Click to expand...

I think your misunderstanding what I’m suggesting

It sounds like you cut off the 5 wire RR connector and joined the three yellow stator wires to the new RR plug with butt connectors ...yes?

If so
I’m suggestion you do not do that.
If you go the side cover with the stator you will find a cable with theee yellow stator wires using a 3 place connector
That is the direct connection I suggest you use to the new RR bypassing the bike OEM wiring harness
 
E.Marquez said:
I think your misunderstanding what I’m suggesting

It sounds like you cut off the 5 wire RR connector and joined the three yellow stator wires to the new RR plug with butt connectors ...yes?

If so
I’m suggestion you do not do that.
If you go the side cover with the stator you will find a cable with theee yellow stator wires using a 3 place connector
That is the direct connection I suggest you use to the new RR bypassing the bike OEM wiring harness
Click to expand...

I guess I'm confused, the three wires are coming out of the stator cover. Are you saying to make the connection at the junction inside at the stator? (Circle in yellow)
244634
 
E.Marquez said:
So that cable coming out of
The cover went straight to the old RR 5 wire connector ?
Click to expand...

Yes, the wires out of the stator cover went straight to the RR 5pin connector in the original setup. The white wires are direct to stator. The new harness came with the yellow wires which is the reason for the different colors.
244635
 
Monica said:
Yes, the wires out of the stator cover went straight to the RR 5pin connector in the original setup. The white wires are direct to stator. The new harness came with the yellow wires which is the reason for the different colors.View attachment 244635
Click to expand...
Well good, but strange...... never seen a stator go straight to the RR connector which has additional wires in it.. How would you replaced just the stator?

But if your RR is wired directly to the stator and battery than its a decent set up you have. Id not use butt connectors personally, but if done well with good connectors and made water proof as you did, with perhaps a bit of dielectric silicone on the wire ends them selves you should be good to go..Well done.

EDIT..wonder if that bike has already been modified???.... From what Im seeing online, the 2009 WR250 had a two plug RR and a stator with two plugs as well..

1570457166387.png





EDIT #2, Ahhhh, got it..the 2010 WR250 used a single connector 5 wire RR
1570458511503.png

DId I mis read the model year of your WR250?

I apologize for the confusion I added
 
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You read it correctly, it's a 2009. Unfortunately I don't know the whole history on the bike, I'm not the first ower. I do know the stator recall was done on it per the recall. The model of RR on there was a SH678-11. The 5pin connector Y-d off, the blk/red went into a separate 2pin connector to the bike harness, the 3whites continued direct to the stator.

No worries on the confusion, we're sorted :-D
 
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Well no matter it looks like it did have the updated RR from the 2010 and on but now it’s got an even better solution so you’re good to go keep an eye on those three but connector joints if they start to get funky you start losing charge voltage that’s probably going to be your issue

If you have problems you know where to find me I’ll get you fixed up
 
I appreciate it. At this time I'm not worried about it, just the opposite actually feeling pretty good since completing this, the WR has left me stranded twice. I'm feeling positive that I've moved in the direction of a solution.
 
Hit a ride tonight to shake out the bike. The new RR held the voltage at 14.4-14.5v the entire ride. Only ran it 65mi and didn't do any turning it off/on. I guess time will tell. I will ride with the voltage display for a while to keep me informed of the charging status. Should keep me out of trouble.

Also replaced the front tubliss system with a traditional tube. Holy cow that tire changing life is so much easier! Tire run fine, it helped the handshake issue I was getting at 65+. I comfortably ran at 68-70 where as before I didn't. So thumbs up there.

245862
 
Glad you got it sorted out.
 
Monica said:
Hit a ride tonight to shake out the bike. The new RR held the voltage at 14.4-14.5v the entire ride. Only ran it 65mi and didn't do any turning it off/on. I guess time will tell. I will ride with the voltage display for a while to keep me informed of the charging status. Should keep me out of trouble.

Also replaced the front tubliss system with a traditional tube. Holy cow that tire changing life is so much easier! Tire run fine, it helped the handshake issue I was getting at 65+. I comfortably ran at 68-70 where as before I didn't. So thumbs up there.

View attachment 245862
Click to expand...
If you want a simple lower profile way to keep an eye on voltage, consider a LED voltage monitor https://www.roadstercycle.com/Motorcycle voltage monitor.htm
 
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