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New way for dealers to sell a motorcycle

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philipbarrett said:
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In other words, the money gets moved around the 4 squares & the dealer makes their margin somewhere. If you eliminate squares (as blupupher did), you don't get the car for any less and in fact, sometimes you end up paying more.
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If you don't know what you are doing, yes. But if you know, then you can get a better deal.
 
blupupher said:
If you don't know what you are doing, yes. But if you know, then you can get a better deal.
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How do you know? If the dealer gets a rebate from financing a vehicle he may well be inclined to let some money off the purchase price for example.
 
philipbarrett said:
They do. ...
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Interesting.
Well, I doubt they could match my 0.9% interest from my credit union.
Regardless, I feel like I got a good deal, I know they made money off me, which I am ok with, that is part of business. I know I got a good deal. Could I have maybe gotten a better one, who knows.
... Silliest lie ever from a dealer when I was trading in a vehicle; "we always have trouble shifting these." It was a 4 year Chevy Suburban...in Texas!
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LOL. Yeah, those just sit on lots for months.
 
I'm sure you did, like Dukey33 said, the best way is to buy direct from the owner but that's not always an option. A mismatched dealer & make/model can also be a good deal, I paid way under value for a BMW wagon at a small Mitsubishi dealer once.

You also have to assign value to your time spent in the purchase process.
 
blupupher said:
Well, I doubt they could match my 0.9% interest from my credit union.
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If you run the math, the cash back (for the typical dealer 0% financing or $X cash back offer) always works out to be more $ in your pocket than you'd save on interest payments too.
 
philipbarrett said:
If you run the math, the cash back (for the typical dealer 0% financing or $X cash back offer) always works out to be more $ in your pocket than you'd save on interest payments too.
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Again, a used vehicle, so no cash back offer.
New vehicles are a whole different ballgame.
 
Back to the original topic. The loan says "add $400 for cash purchase." It doesn't stipulate anything else. So the way to beat this is to walk in with a preapproved loan from your preferred bank or credit union, but don't tell the salesman or closing booth guy - which is always a great strategy in any case. Make the deal, decline to take their loan package, and buy the bike. If they try to jack the price because you don't take THEIR package, walk. And call the BBB and report them.

By the way, I've occasionally taken dealer financing because it was better than what I walked in with. A handful of questions will insure that it's a legit loan with no strings such as payoff penalties. If it's a major credit corp such as GMAC, there should be no issue. And frankly, the dealer doesn't give a hang if you pay off the loan the minute you walk out the door. As long as you take their financing, they get a finder's fee, and they're gonna get their fee regardless of if you pay it off in 36 months or 1 month.
 
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