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Project Bike: '05 ZX6-RR 200mph Standing Mile Build

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Fort Worth, Tx
#1
Like the title says. Im building my 2005 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6-RR to run at the Houston Mile(the one mile) and hope to be the first under 1000cc bike to break 200mph in the standing mile.

Its going to take ALOT of work(and HP) to get my bike there and with the help of a few guys who have run there, and made the 200mph club, ive been gaining lots of usefull tips and insight as the build goes along. Here are the specs of what im building

Bike: 2005 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6-RR. This is the race version with close ratio 6 speed, race tuned suspension, Higher lift cams + bigger valves than 636, shorter stroke(599cc) than 636 but 1000rpm higher rev limit, and slipper clutch.
Mods:
-Carillo H-Beam Connecting Rods
-JE Forged Pistons that bump it from 599cc to 636cc
-DynoTune Systems Progressive Dry Nitrous Kit (80HP)
-CNC Port + Polish on cylinder head
-Crankshaft Knife-edged, lightened, and balanced
-Sharkskinz Full Racing Bodywork
-Airtech-Streamlining Land Speed front fender
-Modified exhaust to go from undertail to GP style

Pulling the engine out right now to get the headwork and crank work done and to order the pistons and rods. My goal when its complete is 200-210hp on the spray and 200mph in the standing mile.... The Fairings and front fender should be here this week, ive already modified the exhaust, and got alot of smaller parts on order like the required lanyard kill switch, metal chain guard, etc.
 
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#2
Good luck with the effort hope to hear all about it after the run. I think you picked a good bike Kawas have always been quick from the get go. Are you going to do a picture build and post? Drew
 
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#3
Good luck with the effort hope to hear all about it after the run. I think you picked a good bike Kawas have always been quick from the get go. Are you going to do a picture build and post? Drew
Thanks. There are a few guys on this board that are helping me including Jason, so im learning as i go. This will be my first nitrous build so i have a learning curve ahead of me as well. The ZX6RR is the best platform for a 600cc i could have chosen as it has all the stuff factory that i mentioned above and with intake and exhaust mods and fuel management ive seen them put down HP in the 120's so i dont think ill have any trouble making 200HP with all my mods.

Ill post pics as i go. Ill snap some in a min.
 
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#6
I was originally planning on running there but alot of the fast guys said go to Houston Mile ,which they hold around the same time, since the track is better and it doesnt have the nasty spot at the end during shut down. Still waiting on details for the next houston mile since ive heard that some big names bought the event and are planning on going big this year.
 
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#8
Where is the Houston Mile held?
houston... LOL

Its at Ellington Airport in Houston. From my understanding it is an active airport. Never been there myself but i will be hauling the bike down in October.

http://www.houstonmile.com/

They dont have any info up for the oct event and from what i understand since some bigwigs are taking over it will most likely be called something else for the next event.
 
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#9
Cool, that's the Air Force base over on the south east side of town. It's not far from my MIL's house. When we visit, we often see jets coming and going.
 
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#10
Cool, that's the Air Force base over on the south east side of town. It's not far from my MIL's house. When we visit, we often see jets coming and going.
Its supposed to be alot better than Texas Mile in Beeville. Ive heard you can get ALOT more runs in as well. Hopefully they post some info up by next month as i want to get registered. If not then ill be running the Texas Mile instead...
 
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#14
Got my new race fairings in today and im to impatient to wait so i test fitted the race tail. Looks darn good!! Sharkskinz fairings rule. They are all fiberglass construction with holes predrilled. For some reason i thought they were going to come white though as i was planning on leaving them be and throwing a couple stickers on but im not so sure now... We are a dealer for sharkskinz btw.

 
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#15
Here is a couple pics of what i did the other day. I didnt want the undertail exhaust anymore(or the catalytic converter for that matter) and a common thing for 05-06 ZX6R riders to do is swap over the 03-04 header. Well i bought a used one on ebay for about $30 to my door but upon examining it, there were a few differences i didnt like. First is the 03-04 has a primary OD of 34.5mm and 05-06 of 35mm so the primary tubes are bigger on my bike, second is the fact that the routing of the primaries are a little different and comes to close to certain areas as well as having to make a new radiator bracket. I was told to "dent" the pipe a little so it clears but im not into that type of mod so i cut off the collectors off the two and swapped them so i have the best of both worlds and no CAT anymore either...





 
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#19
Lookin' good so far. How do you like your craftsman box? Just recently got the same and am enjoying it. Drew
The red one is good. I got the black one with big drawers and wood top and the bottom drawer track just broke yesterday... Time for warranty

EDIT: you can actually see the bottom drawer hanging open a bit in the pic. Thats the broken one... LOL
 
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E.Marquez

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#20
Watching this one for sure,, great project. Wish you the best of luck.

What is your final wet target weight?
Are you going to get a final post tuning Dyno run done for a known HP?

With GSXR1300 at 195 hp or so and 473 lb just barely making it into the 200 MPH range.. You have your work cut out for you... but I really like what you have laid out.. nice program.. if the weight is down enough, suspension working well to hook through 4th gear, rider doing his (or her) job plus some favorable winds and temps you have a good chance I think of reaching your goal.

Who is the rider? Experience? Standing Miles before?
 
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#21
Watching this one for sure,, great project. Wish you the best of luck.

What is your final wet target weight?
Are you going to get a final post tuning Dyno run done for a known HP?

With GSXR1300 at 195 hp or so and 473 lb just barely making it into the 200 MPH range.. You have your work cut out for you... but I really like what you have laid out.. nice program.. if the weight is down enough, suspension working well to hook through 4th gear, rider doing his (or her) job plus some favorable winds and temps you have a good chance I think of reaching your goal.

Who is the rider? Experience? Standing Miles before?
To answer a few questions

I havent been to concerned with weight. I believe wet weight is 423.8lbs and im eliminating anything that i dont need including, but not limited to, the exhaust valve servo, the undertail exhaust which im going with a tucked in side mount GP style w/M4 GP muffler, passenger footrests/pegs, and anything else i can take off.

The stock undertail muffler i took off weighed at least 15lbs, and the CAT probly 5lbs so thats all weight that wont be going back on there. So a conservative estimate would probly be 400lbs wet weight when its done. and im on a diet so that should help... LOL. I weigh 187lbs as we speak.

The bike will DEFINATELY get dyno tuned before i go and im shooting for 200-210 HP at the wheel.

I will be the driver. No experience at the mile, only street riding. I do plan to practice hard launches at the dragstrip once its together but before i go.

Im basically banking on the fact that my bike will put down comparable HP to a busa that can break 200mph (200hp), but its lighter(almost 75lbs by the numbers shown above), and it is more aerodynamic and has less cross sectional area so less drag.

I just want to be the first person that can break 200mph in the standing mile on a bike under 1000cc. Ive checked all the stats from Loring to Texas Mile, to Houston Mile and i cant find anyone who has done it. Its reletively easy, in comparison, to do that on a busa(especially turbo) so i want to stand out and prove i can do it the HARD way... Ill also be enjoying the looks of the sea of busa riders when i take a bike half the engine size and do what they have been doing... :dude:
 
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E.Marquez

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#22
Im basically banking on the fact that my bike will put down comparable HP to a busa that can break 200mph (200hp), but its lighter(almost 75lbs by the numbers shown above), and it is more aerodynamic and has less cross sectional area so less drag.
Fantastic... watching for sure.
Anything you can do to reduce Coefficient of friction (aero drag) is good, so anything snagging wind, body parts, mirrors, feet not tucked in will help as well.

Plan on lowering the suspension some?
 
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#23
Fantastic... watching for sure.
Anything you can do to reduce Coefficient of friction (aero drag) is good, so anything snagging wind, body parts, mirrors, feet not tucked in will help as well.

Plan on lowering the suspension some?
Yeah, mirrors and bar ends are gone already. Forgot to mention those.

I have a land speed front fender on order as well.
 
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#24
I was looking into lowering compression but talking with some engine builders who have/or have built high CR nitrous bikes and im going to take their advice and stay with my 13.5:1 CR and run VP race fuel. Already checked and Texas and Houston Mile have vendors with race fuel on hand and they recommend i special order it ahead of time so that i am sure to have the exact fuel i need during the event. So 13.5:1 CR, 636cc(with JE big bore forged pistons), carrillo rods, CNC port work, 80HP shot of nitrous, and VP 110 race fuel should make for a potent combo and i dont see any reason i shouldnt be able to safely make 200+ RWHP. If i can keep the front wheel down and keep traction i should be able to make 200mph as well....
 
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#25
The red one is good. I got the black one with big drawers and wood top and the bottom drawer track just broke yesterday... Time for warranty

EDIT: you can actually see the bottom drawer hanging open a bit in the pic. Thats the broken one... LOL
Ya I have the red one also,just combined three boxes into that one. I think I still need more room. Have a MAC side box but cannot find the keys for it. Hate to get rid of any tools that would be a sin. Will look forward to updates on the baby Kawa. 200 mph better hang on tight. :rider: Drew
 
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#26
Just wondering as I haven't done the googly thing in rules... Are there rules against going turbo on the bike?

Sent by my NSA monitored Verizon Galaxy Nexus.
 
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#27
Just wondering as I haven't done the googly thing in rules... Are there rules against going turbo on the bike?

Sent by my NSA monitored Verizon Galaxy Nexus.
No. There are different classes but all power adders are in the unlimited class. Im doing nitrous because its cheaper and easier than doing a turbo as there are no ready made turbo kits for my bike, and even if there were, it would cost 5-6 times as much to do a turbo setup.
 
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#28
Got some swingarm extensions on order, Carrillo Rods will be on order when they call me back this morning, got my M4 GP muffler on the way, and as soon as i get the JE pistons here ill be sending the cylinder out to get the overbore and replating. Still have to get a steering damper per rules, got my metal chain guard and lanyard switch here already per rules. Its starting to come together.
 
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#30
Are you going to paint her lime Kawasaki racing green? It would look good Z1-R blue also! Drew
Not before october... I dont have unlimited money(or unlimited credit cards) so it will most likely stay the color the bodywork came in, primer-ish grey. I have been wanting to try out that plasti-dip though so if i get some extra money before oct i may spray it a solid color...
 
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#31
Info just released on the next Houston Mile.

Bill Warner, aka "Mr. 300" has acquired the rights to the Houston Mile. Event is scheduled for October 19th-20th.

Ordered my Carrillo Rods yesterday and waiting for a call back from my rep to get the JE Pistons ordered today. Also talked to my rep at Tucker Rocky and they are going to give me some sponsorship so the rest of the parts i need will be on the way soon. Things are coming together quickly
 
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#33
Dont know what ive updated so here goes:

-Parts that are on order and will be here this week-
CP Carrillo Rods
1 Piece Race Suite
Bazzaz Z-FI
Swingarm Extensions
Streamlined front fender
JE Forged Big Bore Pistons

Already have my metal chain guard, MPS lanyard switch, Sharkskinz fairings.
Still need to order my Scotts Steering damper which is on back order at the moment, SS brake lines, new tires, nitrous kit.

When i get rods and pistons in im going to tear down the engine and send the crank off, and i have to send the cylinder and new pistons to get overbored and replated.
 
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Houston
#38
To answer a few questions

I havent been to concerned with weight. I believe wet weight is 423.8lbs and im eliminating anything that i dont need including, but not limited to, the exhaust valve servo, the undertail exhaust which im going with a tucked in side mount GP style w/M4 GP muffler, passenger footrests/pegs, and anything else i can take off.

The stock undertail muffler i took off weighed at least 15lbs, and the CAT probly 5lbs so thats all weight that wont be going back on there. So a conservative estimate would probly be 400lbs wet weight when its done. and im on a diet so that should help... LOL. I weigh 187lbs as we speak.

The bike will DEFINATELY get dyno tuned before i go and im shooting for 200-210 HP at the wheel.

I will be the driver. No experience at the mile, only street riding. I do plan to practice hard launches at the dragstrip once its together but before i go.

Im basically banking on the fact that my bike will put down comparable HP to a busa that can break 200mph (200hp), but its lighter(almost 75lbs by the numbers shown above), and it is more aerodynamic and has less cross sectional area so less drag.

I just want to be the first person that can break 200mph in the standing mile on a bike under 1000cc. Ive checked all the stats from Loring to Texas Mile, to Houston Mile and i cant find anyone who has done it. Its reletively easy, in comparison, to do that on a busa(especially turbo) so i want to stand out and prove i can do it the HARD way... Ill also be enjoying the looks of the sea of busa riders when i take a bike half the engine size and do what they have been doing... :dude:
Granted the ZX-6R has a smaller frontal area than the Hayabusa, but that doesn't automatically translate into it creating less drag. The Hayabusa was designed around a wind tunnel with higher speeds in mind. That's why that bike looks as goofy as it does. Stock the ZX-6R tops out at about 155. The bodywork wasn't designed with top speed in mind. At any rate, good luck.
 
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#39
Granted the ZX-6R has a smaller frontal area than the Hayabusa, but that doesn't automatically translate into it creating less drag. The Hayabusa was designed around a wind tunnel with higher speeds in mind. That's why that bike looks as goofy as it does. Stock the ZX-6R tops out at about 155. The bodywork wasn't designed with top speed in mind. At any rate, good luck.
Makes sense now that i think about it. Im still hoping that comparable HP, and lighter weight help me get there. I did some research and it appears that claims from a previous post were incorrect and the wet weight of the busa appears to be 551-563lbs depending on year. So being as my bike is going to be close to 400lbs wet weight that should help me quite a bit since my lb/per hp should be closer to the busa(if not exceeding it) with the added HP im going to be putting out.

Hp is still up in the air till i actually get some test and tune in but i already have lots of naysayers who claim i wont get over 150RWHP even with all the mods so we will see.
 
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#40
Makes sense now that i think about it. Im still hoping that comparable HP, and lighter weight help me get there. I did some research and it appears that claims from a previous post were incorrect and the wet weight of the busa appears to be 551-563lbs depending on year. So being as my bike is going to be close to 400lbs wet weight that should help me quite a bit since my lb/per hp should be closer to the busa(if not exceeding it) with the added HP im going to be putting out.

Hp is still up in the air till i actually get some test and tune in but i already have lots of naysayers who claim i wont get over 150RWHP even with all the mods so we will see.
Your using a non-factory fairing etc so that might help also. Do not know if the ones you have a shaped different but weight does make a big difference and gearing. Good luck were in your corner. Drew
 

E.Marquez

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#41
I did some research and it appears that claims from a previous post were incorrect and the wet weight of the busa appears to be 551-563lbs depending on year. .

What I cited was statement that said "GSXR1300 at 195 hp or so and 473 lb just barely making it into the 200 MPH range." and that weight was the certified weight of the bike at the time trial.. so.. not really a claim,,, but a certified weight of that bike that day.. The HP is a educated guess, as the owner was not letting on what he really had...

Not incorrect at all, just not what your reading about in other reports, magazine articles... ect.

I don't own or campaign one of these bikes so I don't have a frame of reference if that was a "common" weight or just what that bike was reduced to. :giveup:

Your project is very nice, and stands on it's own merit. wish you the best of luck... and if possible, i'll ride up when you try for your goal and will happily cheer you on :clap:
 
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#42
What I cited was statement that said "GSXR1300 at 195 hp or so and 473 lb just barely making it into the 200 MPH range." and that weight was the certified weight of the bike at the time trial.. so.. not really a claim,,, but a certified weight of that bike that day.. The HP is a educated guess, as the owner was not letting on what he really had...

Not incorrect at all, just not what your reading about in other reports, magazine articles... ect.

I don't own or campaign one of these bikes so I don't have a frame of reference if that was a "common" weight or just what that bike was reduced to. :giveup:

Your project is very nice, and stands on it's own merit. wish you the best of luck... and if possible, i'll ride up when you try for your goal and will happily cheer you on :clap:
Just everything i read said the stock wet weight was what i quoted, and dry weight was around 475lbs. I guess i got my work cut out for me if its really closer to 475 wet. Ill be curious to know what my bike weighs when im done with everything.

That would be great to have some extra support out there. Ive got my wife and kid coming obviously, my brother, and JR from Rednek coming out.
 
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#43
I talked to my rep at JE Pistons and with the Big Bore JE Pistons (599cc to 636cc) the pistons are STILL lighter. He said stock came in at 135 grams and the JE's came in at 130 grams. Lighter weight on the rotating assembly is ALWAYS a good thing. While im waiting on those im going to send the crank to the local machine shop to get worked over.
 
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#44
I wish you luck! Sounds like a fun project, regardless.

Overall, the aerodynamics are going to be your biggest hurdles. Lighter weight helps with acceleration, but top speed depends on aero and horsepower. For a given amount of horsepower, frontal area and coefficient of drag (Cd), you can calculate the top speed and weight is mostly irrelevant.

For example, most sportbikes have a Cd of ~.50 with a rider in place. That's slightly better than a small barn! :)

This is a good excerpt from an article I have on hand from when I was building one of my track toys. The bold area shows how you need to really focus on the aerodynamics if you want to play with the big boys. You'll need boatloads of HP to overcome the drag. Overall weight is only a small concern.

The horsepower required to overcome drag is not linear (see graph below). Take a car with a Cd (Coefficient of drag) of .40, frontal area of 20sq. ft, 150 DRIVE wheel horsepower, and correct gearing, it's top speed is approx. 135mph. Double your power to 300hp, and you end up with 173mph - 100% more power, 28% more top speed. Above 140mph or so, you may get as much return on aerodynamic improvements as horsepower gains. Take the 150hp engine, stick it into a slicker car (Cd .30, same frontal area) and you get 149mph with the same drivetrain. That's an additional 15 mph from zero extra horsepower! Put another way, if your car has a Cd of .40 (and many older cars are worse than this, a stock 240Z is about .465). to add 10MPH top speed from 140 to 150MPH, you need a 35 horsepower gain, AT THE DRIVE WHEELS, just to overcome the aerodynamic drag. Driveline losses are typically 15-20%, so that makes over 40 crankshaft horsepower for a 10 MPH gain. Then throw in frictional losses, (and friction increases with speed, all those bearings spinning faster and faster), and you can see that where 120mph is easy, 150 is much harder.

Here's a graph showing the curve for aerodynamics to give you a better idea of the curve involved :


MPH is in 5mph increments

For a given amount of horsepower, frontal area, and coefficient of drag (.Cd), and correct gearing, you will have a calculable top speed, almost regardless of weight (increased rolling friction from heavier weights comes into play in comparatively small amounts). An example would be : 150hp and Cd of .40 = top speed 135. Weight? It's not nearly as critical, as long as you're geared to make your 150hp at 135mph, and have enough gears in between to get you there. The amount of TIME required to get to 135 will vary due to weight, but absolute top speed will very only a small amount.
 
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#45
Ive tried searching but couldnt find any hard numbers for my bikes coefficient of drag. The best i could come up with is when it came out it had the "lowest ever coefficent of drag of any ninja". Thats probly not saying much though...

I do know that the claimed top speed is pretty close to reality. Ive had it to an indicated 160-ish and even figuring in speedo error and gearing correction i was doing no less than 145 and not at redline yet. I think claimed top speed is around 155mph

I do see that from the article weight doesnt play a very big role in top speed but DOES play a big role in how fast you reach that top speed. I would have figured it would play a bigger role in top speed but i seem to remember something about mass in motion wants to stay in motion... Who knows...

All i can really do without a windtunnel is just do the mods i KNOW will help like removing anything that sticks out, ie mirrors, bar ends, my big fat head, etc... I also heard that a double bubble windshield would help as well to divert the air over the helmet and cause less turbulence.
 
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#46
I didn't see anything regarding this... Will you run a constant loss charge system or a battery less set up?

Sent by my NSA monitored Verizon Galaxy Nexus.
 
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#48
I hadnt planned on it. How much is there to gain by eliminating the charging system/starting system?? Will it be noticeable?
Starting system - not much. You're mostly talking sprung weight there.

Charging system - toss the stator, lighten the flywheel, and possibly redo your pickups (depending on what kind is on the bike) and you can gain a bit. But the key is it is dynamic drag. 1hp = 750 watts of power. Most modern bikes are at 400-500 watt stators. Factor in the inefficiency of the 1800's era charging system on the bike, count on a waste factor of 15-20% watts ≈ 100 watts for sake of math, and now your at a loss of almost 1hp dynamic. That's not factoring in rotational weight of a heavy flywheel and magnets. Plus newer lithium batteries hold quite a bit of juice for their weight, embarrassing their lead counter parts.

Will it be butt dyno noticeable? Prob not because you have to see gains of 10-15% for that. Will it show in numbers of equally pinned bikes and riders, yes. There is more theory that goes into this, but can get a lil complicated when doing the math.

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#49
Starting system - not much. You're mostly talking sprung weight there.

Charging system - toss the stator, lighten the flywheel, and possibly redo your pickups (depending on what kind is on the bike) and you can gain a bit. But the key is it is dynamic drag. 1hp = 750 watts of power. Most modern bikes are at 400-500 watt stators. Factor in the inefficiency of the 1800's era charging system on the bike, count on a waste factor of 15-20% watts ≈ 100 watts for sake of math, and now your at a loss of almost 1hp dynamic. That's not factoring in rotational weight of a heavy flywheel and magnets. Plus newer lithium batteries hold quite a bit of juice for their weight, embarrassing their lead counter parts.

Sent by my NSA monitored Verizon Galaxy Nexus.
Im already applying that theory to the crankshaft. Im having it lightened, knife-edged, and balanced. Im wondering if all the work to eliminate the charging system is worth the 1hp gain though... Especially since push starting will have to be done from then forward.

I am familiar with how much power a small lithium battery holds as ive been using them in the last couple bike builds ive done. Amazing they are.
 
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#50
The 1hp number is just the loss to make the electrical current, which is dynamic and will rise with rpm because of how electrical systems work. Not including the rotational weight loss. You will still be able to start it because you keep the starter. Between the stator, battery, flywheel and R/R, you could stand to loose about 15-20 lbs sprung weight.

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