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Project Bike: '05 ZX6-RR 200mph Standing Mile Build

Just wondering as I haven't done the googly thing in rules... Are there rules against going turbo on the bike?

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Just wondering as I haven't done the googly thing in rules... Are there rules against going turbo on the bike?

Sent by my NSA monitored Verizon Galaxy Nexus.

No. There are different classes but all power adders are in the unlimited class. Im doing nitrous because its cheaper and easier than doing a turbo as there are no ready made turbo kits for my bike, and even if there were, it would cost 5-6 times as much to do a turbo setup.
 
Got some swingarm extensions on order, Carrillo Rods will be on order when they call me back this morning, got my M4 GP muffler on the way, and as soon as i get the JE pistons here ill be sending the cylinder out to get the overbore and replating. Still have to get a steering damper per rules, got my metal chain guard and lanyard switch here already per rules. Its starting to come together.
 
Are you going to paint her lime Kawasaki racing green? It would look good Z1-R blue also! Drew
 
Are you going to paint her lime Kawasaki racing green? It would look good Z1-R blue also! Drew

Not before october... I dont have unlimited money(or unlimited credit cards) so it will most likely stay the color the bodywork came in, primer-ish grey. I have been wanting to try out that plasti-dip though so if i get some extra money before oct i may spray it a solid color...
 
Info just released on the next Houston Mile.

Bill Warner, aka "Mr. 300" has acquired the rights to the Houston Mile. Event is scheduled for October 19th-20th.

Ordered my Carrillo Rods yesterday and waiting for a call back from my rep to get the JE Pistons ordered today. Also talked to my rep at Tucker Rocky and they are going to give me some sponsorship so the rest of the parts i need will be on the way soon. Things are coming together quickly
 
Info just released on the next Houston Mile.

Bill Warner, aka "Mr. 300" has acquired the rights to the Houston Mile. Event is scheduled for October 19th-20th.

I sure hope he brings the mile record back to Texas!

he bought a couple of mile/land speed racing domain names from me earlier this year.
 
Dont know what ive updated so here goes:

-Parts that are on order and will be here this week-
CP Carrillo Rods
1 Piece Race Suite
Bazzaz Z-FI
Swingarm Extensions
Streamlined front fender
JE Forged Big Bore Pistons

Already have my metal chain guard, MPS lanyard switch, Sharkskinz fairings.
Still need to order my Scotts Steering damper which is on back order at the moment, SS brake lines, new tires, nitrous kit.

When i get rods and pistons in im going to tear down the engine and send the crank off, and i have to send the cylinder and new pistons to get overbored and replated.
 
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Got my new one piece race suit and Bazzaz fuel controller today.
racesuit_zpsc52ec9a7.jpg


bazzaz_zpsecb669cf.jpg
 
Subscribed!
(and eagerly awaiting build photos. Please shoot & post more than you think you'll need)
 
Subscribed!
(and eagerly awaiting build photos. Please shoot & post more than you think you'll need)

Im going to tear the engine down on saturday. Maybe ill do a tutorial with photos on how to rebuild the engine if anyone is interested.
 
To answer a few questions

I havent been to concerned with weight. I believe wet weight is 423.8lbs and im eliminating anything that i dont need including, but not limited to, the exhaust valve servo, the undertail exhaust which im going with a tucked in side mount GP style w/M4 GP muffler, passenger footrests/pegs, and anything else i can take off.

The stock undertail muffler i took off weighed at least 15lbs, and the CAT probly 5lbs so thats all weight that wont be going back on there. So a conservative estimate would probly be 400lbs wet weight when its done. and im on a diet so that should help... LOL. I weigh 187lbs as we speak.

The bike will DEFINATELY get dyno tuned before i go and im shooting for 200-210 HP at the wheel.

I will be the driver. No experience at the mile, only street riding. I do plan to practice hard launches at the dragstrip once its together but before i go.

Im basically banking on the fact that my bike will put down comparable HP to a busa that can break 200mph (200hp), but its lighter(almost 75lbs by the numbers shown above), and it is more aerodynamic and has less cross sectional area so less drag.

I just want to be the first person that can break 200mph in the standing mile on a bike under 1000cc. Ive checked all the stats from Loring to Texas Mile, to Houston Mile and i cant find anyone who has done it. Its reletively easy, in comparison, to do that on a busa(especially turbo) so i want to stand out and prove i can do it the HARD way... Ill also be enjoying the looks of the sea of busa riders when i take a bike half the engine size and do what they have been doing... :dude:
Granted the ZX-6R has a smaller frontal area than the Hayabusa, but that doesn't automatically translate into it creating less drag. The Hayabusa was designed around a wind tunnel with higher speeds in mind. That's why that bike looks as goofy as it does. Stock the ZX-6R tops out at about 155. The bodywork wasn't designed with top speed in mind. At any rate, good luck.
 
Granted the ZX-6R has a smaller frontal area than the Hayabusa, but that doesn't automatically translate into it creating less drag. The Hayabusa was designed around a wind tunnel with higher speeds in mind. That's why that bike looks as goofy as it does. Stock the ZX-6R tops out at about 155. The bodywork wasn't designed with top speed in mind. At any rate, good luck.

Makes sense now that i think about it. Im still hoping that comparable HP, and lighter weight help me get there. I did some research and it appears that claims from a previous post were incorrect and the wet weight of the busa appears to be 551-563lbs depending on year. So being as my bike is going to be close to 400lbs wet weight that should help me quite a bit since my lb/per hp should be closer to the busa(if not exceeding it) with the added HP im going to be putting out.

Hp is still up in the air till i actually get some test and tune in but i already have lots of naysayers who claim i wont get over 150RWHP even with all the mods so we will see.
 
Makes sense now that i think about it. Im still hoping that comparable HP, and lighter weight help me get there. I did some research and it appears that claims from a previous post were incorrect and the wet weight of the busa appears to be 551-563lbs depending on year. So being as my bike is going to be close to 400lbs wet weight that should help me quite a bit since my lb/per hp should be closer to the busa(if not exceeding it) with the added HP im going to be putting out.

Hp is still up in the air till i actually get some test and tune in but i already have lots of naysayers who claim i wont get over 150RWHP even with all the mods so we will see.

Your using a non-factory fairing etc so that might help also. Do not know if the ones you have a shaped different but weight does make a big difference and gearing. Good luck were in your corner. Drew
 
I did some research and it appears that claims from a previous post were incorrect and the wet weight of the busa appears to be 551-563lbs depending on year. .


What I cited was statement that said "GSXR1300 at 195 hp or so and 473 lb just barely making it into the 200 MPH range." and that weight was the certified weight of the bike at the time trial.. so.. not really a claim,,, but a certified weight of that bike that day.. The HP is a educated guess, as the owner was not letting on what he really had...

Not incorrect at all, just not what your reading about in other reports, magazine articles... ect.

I don't own or campaign one of these bikes so I don't have a frame of reference if that was a "common" weight or just what that bike was reduced to. :giveup:

Your project is very nice, and stands on it's own merit. wish you the best of luck... and if possible, i'll ride up when you try for your goal and will happily cheer you on :clap:
 
What I cited was statement that said "GSXR1300 at 195 hp or so and 473 lb just barely making it into the 200 MPH range." and that weight was the certified weight of the bike at the time trial.. so.. not really a claim,,, but a certified weight of that bike that day.. The HP is a educated guess, as the owner was not letting on what he really had...

Not incorrect at all, just not what your reading about in other reports, magazine articles... ect.

I don't own or campaign one of these bikes so I don't have a frame of reference if that was a "common" weight or just what that bike was reduced to. :giveup:

Your project is very nice, and stands on it's own merit. wish you the best of luck... and if possible, i'll ride up when you try for your goal and will happily cheer you on :clap:

Just everything i read said the stock wet weight was what i quoted, and dry weight was around 475lbs. I guess i got my work cut out for me if its really closer to 475 wet. Ill be curious to know what my bike weighs when im done with everything.

That would be great to have some extra support out there. Ive got my wife and kid coming obviously, my brother, and JR from Rednek coming out.
 
I talked to my rep at JE Pistons and with the Big Bore JE Pistons (599cc to 636cc) the pistons are STILL lighter. He said stock came in at 135 grams and the JE's came in at 130 grams. Lighter weight on the rotating assembly is ALWAYS a good thing. While im waiting on those im going to send the crank to the local machine shop to get worked over.
 
I wish you luck! Sounds like a fun project, regardless.

Overall, the aerodynamics are going to be your biggest hurdles. Lighter weight helps with acceleration, but top speed depends on aero and horsepower. For a given amount of horsepower, frontal area and coefficient of drag (Cd), you can calculate the top speed and weight is mostly irrelevant.

For example, most sportbikes have a Cd of ~.50 with a rider in place. That's slightly better than a small barn! :)

This is a good excerpt from an article I have on hand from when I was building one of my track toys. The bold area shows how you need to really focus on the aerodynamics if you want to play with the big boys. You'll need boatloads of HP to overcome the drag. Overall weight is only a small concern.

The horsepower required to overcome drag is not linear (see graph below). Take a car with a Cd (Coefficient of drag) of .40, frontal area of 20sq. ft, 150 DRIVE wheel horsepower, and correct gearing, it's top speed is approx. 135mph. Double your power to 300hp, and you end up with 173mph - 100% more power, 28% more top speed. Above 140mph or so, you may get as much return on aerodynamic improvements as horsepower gains. Take the 150hp engine, stick it into a slicker car (Cd .30, same frontal area) and you get 149mph with the same drivetrain. That's an additional 15 mph from zero extra horsepower! Put another way, if your car has a Cd of .40 (and many older cars are worse than this, a stock 240Z is about .465). to add 10MPH top speed from 140 to 150MPH, you need a 35 horsepower gain, AT THE DRIVE WHEELS, just to overcome the aerodynamic drag. Driveline losses are typically 15-20%, so that makes over 40 crankshaft horsepower for a 10 MPH gain. Then throw in frictional losses, (and friction increases with speed, all those bearings spinning faster and faster), and you can see that where 120mph is easy, 150 is much harder.

Here's a graph showing the curve for aerodynamics to give you a better idea of the curve involved :

aerographbmp.gif

MPH is in 5mph increments

For a given amount of horsepower, frontal area, and coefficient of drag (.Cd), and correct gearing, you will have a calculable top speed, almost regardless of weight (increased rolling friction from heavier weights comes into play in comparatively small amounts). An example would be : 150hp and Cd of .40 = top speed 135. Weight? It's not nearly as critical, as long as you're geared to make your 150hp at 135mph, and have enough gears in between to get you there. The amount of TIME required to get to 135 will vary due to weight, but absolute top speed will very only a small amount.
 
Ive tried searching but couldnt find any hard numbers for my bikes coefficient of drag. The best i could come up with is when it came out it had the "lowest ever coefficent of drag of any ninja". Thats probly not saying much though...

I do know that the claimed top speed is pretty close to reality. Ive had it to an indicated 160-ish and even figuring in speedo error and gearing correction i was doing no less than 145 and not at redline yet. I think claimed top speed is around 155mph

I do see that from the article weight doesnt play a very big role in top speed but DOES play a big role in how fast you reach that top speed. I would have figured it would play a bigger role in top speed but i seem to remember something about mass in motion wants to stay in motion... Who knows...

All i can really do without a windtunnel is just do the mods i KNOW will help like removing anything that sticks out, ie mirrors, bar ends, my big fat head, etc... I also heard that a double bubble windshield would help as well to divert the air over the helmet and cause less turbulence.
 
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I didn't see anything regarding this... Will you run a constant loss charge system or a battery less set up?

Sent by my NSA monitored Verizon Galaxy Nexus.
 
I didn't see anything regarding this... Will you run a constant loss charge system or a battery less set up?

Sent by my NSA monitored Verizon Galaxy Nexus.

I hadnt planned on it. How much is there to gain by eliminating the charging system/starting system?? Will it be noticeable?
 
I hadnt planned on it. How much is there to gain by eliminating the charging system/starting system?? Will it be noticeable?

Starting system - not much. You're mostly talking sprung weight there.

Charging system - toss the stator, lighten the flywheel, and possibly redo your pickups (depending on what kind is on the bike) and you can gain a bit. But the key is it is dynamic drag. 1hp = 750 watts of power. Most modern bikes are at 400-500 watt stators. Factor in the inefficiency of the 1800's era charging system on the bike, count on a waste factor of 15-20% watts ≈ 100 watts for sake of math, and now your at a loss of almost 1hp dynamic. That's not factoring in rotational weight of a heavy flywheel and magnets. Plus newer lithium batteries hold quite a bit of juice for their weight, embarrassing their lead counter parts.

Will it be butt dyno noticeable? Prob not because you have to see gains of 10-15% for that. Will it show in numbers of equally pinned bikes and riders, yes. There is more theory that goes into this, but can get a lil complicated when doing the math.

Sent by my NSA monitored Verizon Galaxy Nexus.
 
Starting system - not much. You're mostly talking sprung weight there.

Charging system - toss the stator, lighten the flywheel, and possibly redo your pickups (depending on what kind is on the bike) and you can gain a bit. But the key is it is dynamic drag. 1hp = 750 watts of power. Most modern bikes are at 400-500 watt stators. Factor in the inefficiency of the 1800's era charging system on the bike, count on a waste factor of 15-20% watts ≈ 100 watts for sake of math, and now your at a loss of almost 1hp dynamic. That's not factoring in rotational weight of a heavy flywheel and magnets. Plus newer lithium batteries hold quite a bit of juice for their weight, embarrassing their lead counter parts.

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Im already applying that theory to the crankshaft. Im having it lightened, knife-edged, and balanced. Im wondering if all the work to eliminate the charging system is worth the 1hp gain though... Especially since push starting will have to be done from then forward.

I am familiar with how much power a small lithium battery holds as ive been using them in the last couple bike builds ive done. Amazing they are.
 
The 1hp number is just the loss to make the electrical current, which is dynamic and will rise with rpm because of how electrical systems work. Not including the rotational weight loss. You will still be able to start it because you keep the starter. Between the stator, battery, flywheel and R/R, you could stand to loose about 15-20 lbs sprung weight.

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