Rode the Rio and then some.......

[Tourmeister]

Now... where was I...?

Ah yes... cold... much grunting... an abundance of snoring... squeaking mattresses... more snoring... voices in my head... "SCOTT YOU UP IN THERE!?"...

Friday

I was thrilled to hear last night that the rider's "meeting" at Kathy's would be at 9:00am. I've always made it a policy on trips I've organized that we never start riding before 9:00am. I know there are those of you that think if you are not on the road before sun up that you are wasting time. Good for you Personally, I like to feel like I am on vacation and not still at work (never mind that I usually get up around 9:45am on regular workdays... ). Still, if I am riding much before 8:00am, the odds of me doing something stupid and potentially painful rise exponentially...

I roll out of my tent to be greeted by the glaring morning sun and cold air!

The moon hasn't even had a chance to go down before the sun intrudes...

Flashstrom and Lurker (Darren or Darien? )

Proof that Scott can rise before the sun...

After a little office work...

... I set to getting myself ready to ride. Most of the other tent city derelicts have already skipped out and headed to Kathy's. I check the time and see that I still have fifteen minutes to make the meeting. All but Dave... seems there is something amiss with his KTM

He mumbles something about no oil pressure... not gonna ride... taking a nap... He assures us that he will be fine for the day and not to worry about him.

Carl and Squeaky ready for action...

A last look at tent city before heading to the meeting

Others have made crazed plans to knock out marathon miles today. Fine. I'm not here to kill myself, just to have some fun. Besides, I need to leave something to explore for the next tip out here No matter, I roll into Kathy's a little before 9:00 to find quite a few people still hanging out, talking, eating, and trying to decide what they are going to do for the rest of the day. I NEED a coke...

A few of the crazies leaving the parking lot... DFW-Warrior and Calgary-Yogi

Some had already left, but more showed up after this pic...

It's like being at a beauty contest

A groovy Yammy V4 with sidecar... Venture Star?

More beauties...

Hungry riders consume breakfast sitting around the fire

It is a little unnerving to see a group of people congregating around your bike for unknown reasons... but it seems the serious business of figuring out where we are going riding is starting to take place

The bike was fine

For those of us that were not previously decided on what we are going to do, Richard conducts an informal ride meeting and Uncle passes out some maps.

The map looks like lots of squiggly roads, what the heck, I just decided what I'm doing for the day

It might look like Richard is preaching... I promise he wasn't

Richard is momentarily distracted from his pontifications by the sight of my beautiful KLR

The meeting concludes and bikes start to filter out of the parking lot in different directions. I plan to ride with Uncle and a few others. Uncle has a bit of business to attend and tells us to meet him at 10:00am at his place. Cool, I get time to mingle...

Richard and Connie enjoying breakfast

Voni and her husband. There is a reason I remember her...

It is getting a bit toasty now that the sun has crested the Chisos Mountains. I am layered up wayyy too much. Something will have to give. So I start shedding a few layers. With my arms up in the air and half naked, this woman clad in all red comes towards me with outstretched arms... uh.... Next thing I know I am getting a great hug I did not hear any cameras going off so what Beth hasn't seen won't hurt her I get my clothes situated and make the proper introduction, hehe. I still have more on than I'd like, so I decide to take my extra time and head back to camp to ditch the extra layers and then scoot over to Uncle's trailer to hook up with the others.

Across the street from Kathy's, a tribute to Burl Hughes, a driving force in past DS events out here, lost to cancer recently...

Back and camp, I shed my layers and find Dave still tinkering with the big nine-fiddy

Then I am off to Uncle's place... and this road continues to taunt me...

Uncle shows up moments later. Gary and John have joined us. We plan to head North and check out some of the Terlingua property that might be for sale We cross the highway, cut up through the old Terlingua Ghost town and then head out...

Into this... I think that is Uncle in the center of the shot.

Lots of ups and downs on this road

I pause for a moment to take it in. There is something about the start of a ride like this that needs to be savored. All the questions flood into my head. "Will I make it out of here?" "Will the bike make it out of here... in one piece?" "What will we see and what will the roads be like?" "What kind of adventure awaits us...?" "Can I catch up to them...?!"

Soon I am riding in the dust cloud from John and Gary. They let me pass and I set off after Uncle. Before long I am rounding the crest of the big hill in the pics above, a fairly rocky climb. I am reminded of my last big adventure in terrain like this... Lots of longggg climbs, sharp pointy things to fall on, and big rocks... The KLR faithfully chugs away. I pass Uncle. He's waiting for the rest of us. I just keep going until I reach the top and then stop to wait for the others.

John finishing the climb on his KLR with Gary bringing up the rear on his new XT 225

The view from the top

Uncle on his DR 650

Uncle resumes the lead and we wander over more hills and through numerous ravines. At each intersection, Uncle stops to point out where we are on his map. Thus far, all the roads on his map are showing on my GPS map. Soon we stop for a little off the bike break, at the local "Hilton".

Can you imagine living here...?

Only recently vacated, R.I.P. David

The view from inside... a bit drafty?

There is an outhouse a short distance away. I decide against using the facilities. After a nice break, we are back underway, winding down through a narrow ravine through some gravel and sand. Uncle has been setting a real nice pace. Keeping up is a non issue and I am not going so fast that I can't take a moment or two to glance about and absorb the scenery. There is just something about being out here that feels good. It is hard to explain. It is just a sense of contentedness. Perhaps it is the lack of all the daily distractions and demands on my time and attention that results in this feeling. More than that though, being here makes me put those things out of my mind so that they don't intrude here. On we ride...

John

Gary

Uncle is already a spec off in the blurry distance...

Time to play catch up again

Lots of ravines or arroyos like this out here. Bone dry now... but come a good rain...

Looks solid enough right...? Think again! LOTS of loose river gravel there

The road goes way down before coming back up!

Uncle leads the way...

Followed by John...

And then Gary.

Only now that all three have been gone a bit do we see Uncle climbing out the other side

[I shot some video here. However, my camera saves it as MOV files that are HUGE. I've not been able to figure out how to convert them to something smaller. Any suggestions? I am using Win2k, not XP or VISTA]

Gary checks out a BIG ditch...

John works on eroding a new big ditch

"yup...", "Uh huh... it's big alright...", "yup"...

Realizing it might take a few million years to reach his goal, John gives up...

Once again we set to rambling down the bumpy road. At each crest, the view opens up to BIG SKY, where the eye takes in as much of the horizon as it can. It is funny how so much blue sky can make huge mountains appear small in contrast The various ridges, hills, and mountains all seem to look alike. It would be VERY easy to get lost out here. Yet it seems every time that we stop, Uncle is busy pointing out the names of the various peaks, showing which direction this or that is in, and basically rubbing it in that he gets to ride out here a lot It is this that he claims has driven him to drink...

It's always steeper than it looks... really...

Here you can see in the upper left where the road crests the ridge

Once again Uncle leads the way...

Looking where we've come from...

And where we're going... Yeah... Uncle names most of the bumps on the horizon...

Happy riders

Happy bikes

After our break, we start a long descent, finally dropping down into a long creek bed. The ground is getting a bit softer here and there. I really have to watch for changes in the soil/surface. It does not take much, a small rock to deflect the tire, some sand to start the bike to squirming, me gawking at the scenery... Riding loose and relaxed seems to really help the bike just do its thing. The happy thumping of the KLR sends good vibes way down into my soul.

John heading down into the creek bed...

Followed by Gary

One can never have too many pictures of one's bike(s)

When we get down into the creek bed, we stop for another break.

Creek beds are about the only place to find shade during the midday sun. I take the opportunity to munch a few granola bars and some other chewy kind of nutty bar thingy. Just enough to keep the hunger away, give a little energy, and not make me sleepy and lethargic.

Uncle shares his local knowledge, no doubt learned from ancient rock carvings...

After picking all the crunchy nutty things out of my teeth and chugging some water, I remount the KLR and make ready to roll. Uncle mentions something about more loose stuff... eh... whatever I like the stuff. However, we soon leave that behind and are once again climbing up to the heights on another ridge. Somewhere along the road several large horned critters shoot across our path and up the steep hillside across the road. Mountain goats? Bighorn Sheep? I dunno, I am just glad Uncle did not hit them when they shot out of the weeds beside the road. They are soon wayyyy up the side of the hill and blend in with the surrounding scrub. About this time, another group of riders comes up behind us. They stop to visit with Unlce, but I go ahead and take off so I can get a little time riding out front, without the dust...

The view from atop the ridge... I think that is Hen Egg Mtn on the left... Hmmm... Okay...

After a fun descent we reach a dry creek bad... Terlingua Creek?

We stop for a break at the creek and the others catch up again

Gary having fun...

Once past the creek, the road runs across a flat open plan... well... mostly flat and mostly open... The road still wanders around small hills and through shallow washes. I am just sticking to Roger and I go where he goes... even off the road?! Now, I have always been told, stay on the roads when riding in the desert unless you want flat tires! Well... I figure Roger obviously knows something I don't so I place my faith in him and follow... A few yards from the road he cuts back to the right and loops around, then drops back out on the road. Hmmm.... I must have missed something... Shortly afterwards, we stop again and we are missing a few folks... uh oh...

If this were the full sized image, you'd see a downed bike back there were we went off the road

I'm still not getting the whole "Hen Egg" thing for this mountain... maybe Bat Dropping Mound or Cow Pie Peak...?

We wait a few minutes before another rider shows up to report. It seems there are some REAL nasty ruts on the section of road we bypassed. Albie "Hood Ornament" was on my tail during that stretch and he dutifully followed as well. John was apparently lingering behind and did not see us take the detour. He got into the ruts, got crossed up, and down he went. Some of you might remember from the ride reports on the big Mexican Recon ride last October that John had a nasty ankle break on that trip. Well... it is mostly better for this trip. He fell on that same side The ankle seems fine though and he is able to get the bike righted and to continue.

Lots of silt on this road... I love it... except for the dust part

The rest of the run back out to Hwy 118 is smooth and fun. The road is wider and apparently graded fairly regularly. We pick up the pace a bit and enjoy the cruise.

Hey STrider, you are the rock guru, what is up with these colors!?

Craggy peaks and towering bluffs (behind me )

When we reach pavement, John decides he is going to call it a day. It seems that he has also wrenched his back a bit when he fell. Rather than risk his luck and further injury, he takes the wise course. Gary offers to head back with him. Uncle, Albie, myself and Albie's friend (whose name totally eludes me ) decide we are going to head to Moon Valley.

Cruising South on 118

After a few miles of pavement, we turn off at one of the Terlingua gates and head East. The road starts out nice and rocky...

It soon turns to this

My last experience on this kind of stuff was on the KLR while HEAVILY loaded down with camping gear. Suffice to say... it was NOT fun. Oh sure, I can laugh about it now... At the time I was thinking heat stroke and heart attack!! Chalk that up to experience... Now though, the KLR happily glides along so long as I stay on the gas and keep my weight rearward. Of course, it helps if the guys in front of you don't stop unexpectedly!! I plow to a stop behind Albie and his bud, managing to keep the bike upright without pulling any muscles. As they pull away, I let them get a good lead on me this time.

The loose stuff eventually gives way to more of this...

A few more miles and we are once again in the deep loose pea gravel. And again, I let the others get a good lead on me so I can run a comfy pace. I come around a bend and spot the lead helmets over the tall brush, moving perpendicular to my path. Sure enough, what looks like a pretty sharp turn is ahead. I start gently easy off the throttle, careful not to let the front end plow and letting the engine braking slow the bike. As I enter the corner there is a bike and rider down in front of me taking up the whole road! I start telling myself out loud, "DON'T LOOK AT HIM!!" I often find that yelling at myself works wonders when trying not to do something stupid on the bikes It works this time and I manage to steer a course around the downed rider and come to a stop.

He's fine and so fast I can barely get the camera out in time!

It is not long before the landscape starts to take on a distinctively different look and feel. The scrub becomes more sparse, giving way to sporadic appearances of smooth grey sections, looking like ash from REALLY big fires.

The rock in the upper section of this formation looks like it was once magma...

And then the greys begin to dominate the landscape... we enter into Moon Valley

[And now I must take a caffeine break ]

 

[TexasShadow]

How did you like Moon Valley, Scott? Isn't it something else?
One of your earlier photos was taken right next to my favorite place down there.

Waiting for more!.......

 

[norm sorensen]

Re: Uncle's Ride the Rio - Feb 21 - 24, 2008

HOME!!

Paid toll coming back from MX to Presidio, TX at 11:26am yesterday and I'm in Kansas City as of 5:25 today. Left Terlingua at 3:45 and rode to Sweetwater and grabbed a hotel and hit the road at about 6:30 this morning. White stuff on the ground all the way through Kansas... quite a chilly ride.

Good meeting you folks. Had a great time and hope to see you down the road.

I'll post a link to my smugmug account later this week.

Gordon,
Had a great time riding with you and Mike. Sounds like you made it home in record time. Sunday I went to El Paso rode around there seen some nice Vistas on the top of the hills there. worked my way home to McKinney Tx the rest of the week. Richard hasn't taken the scooter in yet to see what went wrong I'll keep you posted.

Stormin` Norman

 

[Voni]

Wow! You all took some amazing pictures. Though I live here, I really haven't done much riding off the paved roads so it's been fun to see what it's like.

After Alaska this summer, looks like Paul and I will be selling the F650's and getting some smaller more dirt worthy steeds. You all inspire me.

Sorry to make you blush, Scott. But it was great to meet you and so many other TWT riders at KKKK.

Come back any time ; )

Voni
sMiling

 

[Tourmeister]

And I thought I'd never get to visit the Moon in my lifetime...

The road undergoes a subtle change, from crushed sandy gravel to a soft silty grey. The sounds of crunching soil under my tires gives way to the myriad rattles, pings, and sputter of the KLR... music to my ears The fact that I am taking in the view from within a visored full face helmet only adds to the feeling of an extraterrestrial ride.

Stopping to absorb the view sans helmet

We resume our riding, at a very nice relaxed pace. This is good because I am looking all over the place. We climb a long hill and then drop down the back side into another little valley. Whilst not paying attention to the road... until the last freaking second... I hit a pretty severe washout rut that crosses the road. I hear the front fender blipping off the tire knobs, "whack whack whack..." Hmmm... That can't be good for that to happen to many times I start paying closer attention to the road. A short while later we reach the end of the road. The other side of the fence is apparently part of the Big Bend State Park. I can see the geography change dramatically within a few hundred yards of the fence. Had we been able to go further, we'd have fallen off the edge of the Moon

Albie looks back into the valley contemplating the otherworldly terrain

After a few moments of just silently taking in the experience, we mount up and head back the way we came. I always enjoy back tracking a good DS road. It's a totally different ride. Although, I do keep an eye out for that nasty rut

In the middle of all the shades of grey, this really stood out in start contrast

I'm sure it is probably called something like "Chicken Lip Mtn" Personally, I'd just call it Rust Hill

We climb up out of the little valley and over another big ridge. The ride down the back side is pretty straight and smooth. Uncle pulls over at the bottom and wants me to take some shots of him coming down the hill with Rust Hill in the background. "Sure!" As I hop off the bike, he and Albie take off up the hill.

Albie taking off after Uncle

"They'll be comin' round the mountain when they come... when they come... They'll be..."

And off we go again...

Another of those washed out ruts to be wary of...

It seems like the ride out is a bit faster than the ride in. We soon reach an area where the terrain flattens out and the pace picks up a bit. Before long we pop back out into civilization, right at the campground at the Hwy 118/170 intersection.

We stop in at the gas station/restaurant for a late lunch...

After a nice break, we head our separate ways for the evening. Wasabi has a new rear tire he brought down with him in case mine needs replacing. Initially, I start looking for him but give up. I gas up the KLR and head back to tent city to see what is happening, then head over to Uncle's place. When I arrive there, folks are starting to congregate. My tire looks like it will make another day so I just park in front of Uncle's trailer. However, after some of the climbs we did today, I think I want to swap out the 15 tooth front sprocket with the 14 that I brought. Soon there are shade tree mechanics all around the KLR offering advice... The only really sound bit I get is, "How about a cold beer while you do that...?" Uncle is a wise man...

While working on the bike, I notice a good bit of food being laid out on the picnic table in front of Uncle's trailer. Soon several of the ladies are hounding everyone to come and eat Well... okay... It is a full meal featuring some really good ham as the main course. In short order, the talking becomes more subdued as everyone sits around cleaning their plates. I finish the sprocket change and then settle in for an evening of tire kicking and story telling.

Already, the sun is starting to drop from the sky

The evening view looking East from Uncle's porch...

Rumor has it that Uncle will be having a fireside gathering here later...

And there is that road again... someday...

Folks begin to gather to get info on the plans for the evening

While other folks seem to have their plans pretty well settled

A desert dweller heralds the onset of the local nightlife

A nicely outfitted 08 KLR 650, no clue who it belongs to

The "nightlife" in these parts apparently has several stages. The first part entails gathering at the Front Porch, an old trader store turned tourist trap. It is also where the Starlight Theater is located. This is where people gather to watch the sun's fading rays light up the Chisos Mountains to the East. The sun actually goes down behind the store and folks don't generally watch the actual sunset according to Uncle. We arrive a little late for the light show, but a few cold beers and lots of people to visit with soon make us forget about it. The store has a "beer room" off the back of the main shopping area that has several large coolers containing a nice selection of beers. What is nice is that you can grab one, take it up front, pay for a six pack, and the clerk marks down that you drank one. This way you can leave the others in the cooler until you are ready for them. Each time you grab another, she just marks it off until you are "out". This is a great system because if you are feeling lazy, you can send your buddy in to grab you another beer by telling him to grab one for himself as well and to have the clerk mark it off The porch is a nice wide and long stone covered porch. Folks sit along benches and along the edge of the porch. It is a very relaxing and enjoyable atmosphere.

While hanging out, the local Sheriff drives up and parks right where we are hanging out. After a few moments he walks up and asks if I am Scott... Uh... "Yes...?" "I'm OldDude on your site, glad to meet you." "whew..." It is always an odd kind of feeling when people walk up to me and already know who I am when I have no clue who they are He's been riding for years and we are soon talking bikes and sharing stories. After an hour or so, folks start drifting back over to Uncle's for the fireside gathering. Others just head to bed...

With no moon up yet, it is pretty dark...

My pathetic flash sheds a little light on the night dwellers

Friends, cold beer, a solid stump to sit on, and a blazing fire on a cool night... Does it get any better?

See that star...? My home planet is just to the right of it... Really...

The moon has yet to show its face on this incredibly clear night. As a result, it is VERY dark out here. The stars are brilliant. I could kick back and stare at them for hours. As a kid, I used to wonder why ancient people would bother with constellations. Given their lack of man made night time light, and time on their hands while tending flocks in the fields, I think I now have a better feel for the why... However, there is one thing they were lacking...

Elzi and Ed set to whipping up a batch of homemade cobbler!

Elzi has this "thing" about making odd faces when a camera is pointed at her...

And now the dough...

Then we wait for it to cook...

I spent my time waiting for the cobbler to cook by visiting with Antonio Zerrweck, from Monclova, Mexico. I think his brother has a Bandit 1250S and found TWT because of that MONSTER Bandit thread started by GregH. That thread has been pulling in riders from all over the world. Anyway... His brother turned him on to TWT. He saw the thread about this trip and decided to ride up for a visit on his purdy BMW R1200 GS. He arrived just this evening after close to a 500 mile day in the saddle, just in time for cobbler My Spanish is nonexistent. Fortunately, he speaks pretty good English.

While we wait, we are treated to a spectacular moon rise. Even before we can see the actual disc of the moon, the glow is coming up over the top of the mountains, dispelling the stars. When it finally breaks into view, it seems like only a few minutes before it has completely cleared the ridge and streaks into the night sky. Soon, even the familiar bright starts are getting hard to see. However, I can now easily walk about without a flash light, just in time to go find a cactus to water...

And the cobbler is served, ice cream included!

It only looks like Uncle got to the head of the line in the prior shot... He was actually being a good host and helping to serve, handing out bowls to folks standing around

I am one of those people that does NOT like to mix my ice cream with other deserts, be it pie, cobbler, or cake. In this case though, I opt for the cobbler over the ice cream just so I can sample Elzi and Ed's handiwork. Mmmm.... Good stuff. SWEET... I give it a hearty Although my heart might actually disagree...

The realization that tomorrow morning will be coming bright and early sends many people wandering off into the outer darkness to find their way to their tents. Soon, I am heading back over to tent city. Trailace finally showed up with a wild tale about a BMW leaving him stranded on the side of the road and trying to find Uncle's place in the dark. We all sit around for a bit chatting, but before long we all head to out tents and call it a night. LET'S GET READY TO RUMBLE....!!

 

[TexasShadow]

And there is that road again... someday...

Tell you what; next time we are in BB/Terlingua, I'll give you a tour up that road on the Reed Plateau. It has all kinds of secrets.
(yeah, that road has claimed me, too)

 

[ramblinrog (aka) Uncle]

I'd like to thank everyone that made it to RTR, and to confirm everyones suspicions, there will be a sequel same place, same time next year. So everyone is invited to come on out and lets do it again.

 

[TexasShadow]

We all want to extend a huge "THANK YOU!"to you, Roger, for your generosity and hospitality.

Closest color to the desert as I could find....

 

[ed29]

One of my first pan/stitch efforts. Just got the software loaded and started playing with it. The good tripod will go next time too.

Thanks Roger, see you then if not sooner.

 

[WoodButcher]

Well, I was out in the shop over the weekend and noticed a problem with the Transalp. So I started digging through my pictures and discovered when the problem happened. Anyone else see it?

Before the Ride the Rio:

After River Road:

 

[The Bruce]

Lost your inspection plate, eh? Those rocks get kicked up pretty high.

 

[Tourmeister]

Been there done that Although my entire plate assembly went with it

 

[WoodButcher]

Yep, it was on the mud flap that Hardy put on. I figured that was a great place for the sticker. I noticed it when I went out to the shop to get one of those precut metal plates to hold the sticker under the license. I had a couple extras around (long story) and was going to give one to a friend. As I walked past the TA I got to trying to remember how I put the sticker on it and so I looked and couldn't find it. Had to dig through some pictures to even figure it out. Dang old age. Anyway, I now have my last metal plate on the TA and need to go get re-inspected.

Kind of Squeakyesque, but a lot less hassle than loosing a plate.

 

[Squeaky]

Kind of Squeakyesque, but a lot less hassle than loosing a plate.

I lost my inspection sticker plate on the East Texas mudfest. When I replaced it for BB, I just stuck it on the swingarm.

 

[leadwolf]

Saw this salute and.....

.

...it reminded of this salute by the one-and-only tourmeister, circa 2003 somewhere in MO.

 

[Tourmeister]

Saw this salute and.....



...it reminded of this salute by the one-and-only tourmeister, circa 2003 somewhere in MO.

Of all the pictures you could dredge up...

I think it was in Eureka Springs on that trip where it was all VFR's and Garrell came down from Ava to ride with us. We had been walking around in the Historic district and there were some stairs that climbed up onto of that cliff. Or not... Might have been by that big waterfall we were all climbing over. You know, the one where we stopped and those people griped at you about that pass...

How the kiddos treating you? We have a girl on the way, due mid August. Will make three for us

 

[Tourmeister]

Saturday morning already...?

I always have a hard time sleeping well when camping. All those years in college sitting slumped over a desk permanently goofed up my back So I toss and turn a lot during the night trying to relieve pressure points and kinks. The result is a cumulative wearing down for every night spent in a tent or on a bad mattress. So every morning, getting up gets harder and harder... By the time I finally roll out of the tent, most folks have already left for Kathy's. A quick check of the clock shows I still have plenty of time to get there before 9:00am.

I finally get moving and get myself geared up, load the bike, and head down the road. When I arrive, there are still LOTS of people hanging around. That's kind of strange because I know there are quite a few of those crack freaks here, as in the crack of dawn. You know them, those people that think they need to have 100 miles under their tires before the Sun peeks over the horizon I pull in and head over to the largest group to find out what is going on. It seems a rider never came home last night so search plans are being made. People are splitting up into groups and deciding which routes to cover. The local Sheriff is there to help coordinate. After some time getting people organized we are about to hit the road when the rider comes cruising into the parking lot... He's fine, drama's over, time to ride

Let's see, we can go this way and that way and come out over here...

Woodbutcher's nice Transalp

I think the KLR's have been breeding

As usual, I really have no plan. DFW_Warrior and Calgary-Yogi have a plan. Great, I hook up with them and we head East into the National Park. The plan is to ride part of Glenn Springs Rd, Black Gap Road, and the River Road back to the Rio Grande Village for lunch/gas. Afterwards, we'll hit Ore Rd... and I kind of quit listening at that point. I'll just follow the dust cloud. Ed and Elzi decide to join us for part of the route, opting to forgoe Black Gap Rd. We have to make a stop at the park entrance so I can get my pass, everyone else having gotten theirs previously. Moments later, we are screaming down the road and a blistering 40 mph... It's cool. It is a beautiful day and I wanna soak in the vistas.

Looking East towards the Chisos Mountains (the three dots on the road between the corners are the other riders!)

It seems to take forever, but we finally pass Panther Junction, and eventually reach the start of Glenn Springs Rd., the start of the gravel.

Bill takes the lead and vanishes in a cloud of dust with Rusty in hot pursuit. Graeme follows and I tag along behind him. Ed and Elzi bring up the rear. As soon as we get rolling on the gravel, I settle into my mental groove, scanning, relaxing, steady on the gas, and thinking about nothing in particular. I really need to find a doctor that will prescribe one long weekend an month out here and insurance that will cover it with me only having to make a $30 copay Just being out here does wonders for reducing stress levels. I can't really explain why There is just something about the starkness of the landscape and the complete lack... of... well... anything everything. I love it.

We stop at a small crest to take in the view and to wait for Ed and Elzi

I barely have time to climb up on some rocks before Ed and Elzi come rolling into view

He's hard to miss with that shirt on

She's happily plodding along doing her thing

Bill and Ed do a quick confirmation of the plans before we split the group

Elzi is a lot like me, not too concerned about the plan, just happy to be here instead doing more responsible things

Ed checking to see if Elzi is really all that concerned with their plans

We get moving again and shortly reach the turn off for Black Gap Rd. Ed and Elzi continue on their way on Glenn Spring Rd. We make a short climb, round a corner, and the view opens up to a longggg descent. It starts out rather steep. I got a lot of practice with long steep rocky descents during my adventures in Arizona last summer with Gotdurt and TxRider. So now I am much more relaxed. I just gear down and let the bike roll, bouncing under me, and generally going the direction I intend. There are some good ledges and some narrow spots that cause some mild puckering, but all in all, it is fun!

I actually find a spot level enough for me to stop. Yes... it is steeper than it looks

I think Bill is already down there somewhere just to the right of the hand guard!

We finally reach the bottom and the road starts wandering off into the distance. We dodge all manner of prickly plants that hang out into the road trying to grab our gear. Soon we find ourselves in a narrow mini canyon facing what looks like a 2-3 foot ledge. Rocks have been piled up around the base of it, obviously in an attempt to make it more passable. Bill and Rusty are not in sight, so they have cleared it....

Graeme ponders the best route and then goes for it...

My turn to look for the best route, which looks like up the right side, a quick shot to the left to dodge the big rock, then a hard cut back to the right to miss the small rock slide, on the gas.... Sure... that should do it...

Well... you know what they say about the best laid plans I head up the right side, dodge the big rocks by cutting left, then start to cut right, forget the gas part and lose momentum. I get a foot down and keep the bike upright, but I am sliding backwards despite having the brakes locked! I glance up long enough to notice Bill and Rusty waiting with cameras pointed It only motivates me more and I get on the gas to get moving. The ground is concrete with big rocks set up on end. It is like some kind of horrific cobblestone road. The front tires keeps bouncing off the protruding rocks, making it hard to get my momentum up again. I stay at it though and soon reach the top to find a nice long stretch of deep loose sand. Sand I can deal with

Looking back into the little canyon/wash. It drops off just beyond that big rock on the left

I walk back for a look at the cobblestone section, rougher at the far end where I was rolling backwards

The view from the end of the sandy section

From here on the road mostly levels out. There are washes to watch for. Hitting one of those at any speed could be scary. Most have loose sand with scattered large rocks in them. Also, they are not real smooth in terms of the transition down and back up, instead being quite abrupt. The desert scrub crowds the road, standing just high enough that all I can see of the rider ahead of me is dust and a helmet. We pass two riders heading the opposite direction. As they get closer I realize it is Albie and his bud. We wave and continue on. The road meanders across the desert floor until we finally reach River Rd.

The end of Black Gap Rd (or start if you prefer )

Graeme and Rusty stirring up the dust

River Road is fun. there is sand, gravel, big rocks, and sharp pointy things. Once again Bill takes off in a cloud of dust. I take second and give chase (at a much slower pace). While riding in one particularly deep gravely section with big rocks scattered in the tire ruts, I hear a loud POP!! I feel my left footpeg shift... This can't be good This is the same footpeg that got sliced off during my trip to Arizona. I had hit a BIG rock with the centerstand, which bolts on using the footpeg bolts, and it had sliced right through the bolts. I had to ride down out of the mountains standing on one leg. I glance down and the peg is still there. I try sitting and just keeping my foot on it so it can't go anywhere. The bolts are in place but I'm guessing the threads just stripped out. Sitting doesn't work. It is just to hard to keep control of the bike. So I spend the next few miles standing on one leg again When I finally reach a nice smooth level spot, I pull over and size up the situation. Everyone else takes pictures

I resnug the bolts, but I can feel that the threads are gone. Hopefully, I can just nurse it back to camp once we hit the paved road. Rusty offers some JB Weld, which I ponder momentarily. In a fit of laziness I decline... We are soon moving again. The road is now relatively smooth and sandy. I can sit down without too much problem. Before long we reach Glenn Spring Rd., and find Ed and Elzi waiting with cameras in hand. We join them and take a break.

Graeme enjoying some shade

[Mmmm.... lunch just came walking in the office door Back later...]

 

[TexasShadow]

Thanks for the Black Gap photos/narration!!
I can't wait to try it out next year.

 

[leadwolf]

Of all the pictures you could dredge up...

Or not... Might have been by that big waterfall we were all climbing over. You know, the one where we stopped and those people griped at you about that pass...

It was the Ava, MO trip when we stayed at Garrell's house and it was the waterfalls. I don't recall any passing that may have scared the locals.

How the kiddos treating you? We have a girl on the way, due mid August. Will make three for us

WHAT???? Three??? Don't you know what causes that? Mine are driving me wild, but they are starting to turn into boys all the way. I just took them to the Spring National Motocross in Lake Whitney last weekend. They had a blast. Garrett, the oldest, will be 4 on the 25th. Him and mom went to order a cake and he picked out a motocross cake. Drove her mad. Now to get him on a bike and get him hooked for life. Hopefully, i'll get me some more saddle time which has been all but none existent since they came along.

Good chatting with you again. I'm trying to figure out how to convince my wife to let me get an Xr650R and dual sport it. I'd love to take this trip with you guys next year.

Later,

 

[Tourmeister]

[Flashback alert! - Scott has a brain fart... He is so whacked from the heat and straining of standing on one leg that he totally forgot all the road construction on River Road before we hooked up with Ed and Elzi ]

So there we were, zipping along the River Rd., when we come to some construction. I have to say this is the first time I have stopped for road construction and the guy standing there is carrying an M16 Did we cross the border somewhere?! Bill does some talking while the rest of us just hang out for a moment or two. Then we are off and running again. The road is recently graded and the sands is LOOSE and DEEP. I am too tired to stand, so I just point and shoot the KLR in the general direction I want to be going. It flops around and squirms like a stuck pig, but a little gas and she's good to go! We pass some more heavy equipment and finally come to what I really don't want to see... The water truck is coming the other way and shuts off the valves as we approach... Oh joy... Fortunately, the sand is just to deep for the water to penetrate very far. The back tire spins free a bit, but no problems. We soon clear the construction and are back to cruising speed. No pictures, I was too busy to stop...

[We now return you to our normal programming...]

Let's see... hot, thirsty, hungry, leg hurts... Are we there yet!?

After our break, we still have a ways to go to get back to pavement. I'm geared up and ready to roll. The others not so much. I know the way back to pavement and decide to get a head start on the group. Off I go... the road is nice, wide, and relatively smooth. There are times where I just cannot get into a groove and other times where it seems I slip into the groove almost effortlessly, and I am not talking about ruts on the side of the road that usually catch my interest Without really even realizing it, I have slipped into the moment. The dust swirls behind me, the road comes into clear focus, my left foot seems happy without a foot peg... It's game on...

Most of us have experienced one of "those" rides. Everything fades away from your mind except the mere act of riding, and even that is not really something you are thinking about, you just do it. For some riders, this state is very elusive, for others a regular occurrence. Everything melts away. It's just me, the gravel, the knobbies and the throttle... Time has no meaning...

AGGHHHHHH!!!!

It is never a nice thing to have a serene experience rudely interrupted. In this case, interrupted by a corner that makes a sharp 90 degree left and is piled deep in loose sand! A little braking, a pinch of pucker, and an exhale of relief and all is well. Moments later I round a corner and the pavement comes into site. I pull over near the stop sign and hop off the bike. While putting down the kickstand I happen to notice there is no footpeg where there once was a short while ago Bill shows up a few minutes later, "Man... that corner back there surprised me!" Tell me about it A fellow in a truck pulls up next to us and motions us over. It seems he lost a license plate off his bike somewhere out there and wants to know if we happened to notice a NY state plate laying on the road anywhere... Uh... no, not really He too rides a KLR. I can sympathize with him though as I have lost a plate as well

The rest of the crew rolls up and we head for Rio Grande Village for lunch. It is a nice ride out to the campground area. We arrive and make ourselves comfortable outside the camp store. Packaged sandwiches never tasted so good. Some Gatorade and an ice cream and I am good to go!

You just never know what kind of "wildlife" you will encounter at Big Bend

As this van pulled into the parking spot, a movement in the passenger window caught my eye. It was the passenger pulling her top back up to cover herself! Later, when they were leaving, they had not even cleared the parking spot and off it came! Of course, it never fails that the people doing this kind of stuff are the LAST people you really want to see doing it

As we were heading here, we passed Soozy and Echo Boom, they had fallen in behind us and joined us for lunch. Also, two other riders that are part of our larger weekend group show up as well. We enjoy the cool dry breeze in the shade and relax. Everyone fills up with gas and then we decide to make the run out to the Boquillas Canyon overlook. I've never been out there and am just curious. Given my lack of a foot peg, Ore Road just does not sound that appealing. Several of the others are tired and not really up for it either. A ride back on pavement sounds more appealing to everyone. So Soozy and Echo Boom stay with out group. I get stuck leading!?

[Ggrrr... work is interfering with my funtime ]

 

[TexasShadow]

 

[Tumper]

Wow that looks like an incredible time!!! I can't wait to get the KLR out there and test it's (and my) metal in the desert....LOL

 

[Tourmeister]

The run to Boquillas Canyon...

Just a few miles back up the road from the Rio Grande Village is turnoff to the Northeast. This little road winds its way back over towards the Boquillas Canyon. Not really being up for hiking at the moment, we have instead opted just to run out to the overlook. The road is posted at an annoyingly low 25 mph Seriously, in daylight hours this is absurd. I can see night time where visibility is limited and critters are out and about. The KLR just loves to grunt out of tight corners, of which there are plenty on this road. I lose sight of the riders behind me until I reach the overlook a few minutes later. I stop. I look. I read the plaque. Thrilling... As I ride off, the others come riding in to the overlook. I wait for them back at the main road. Once we are all regrouped, I head back towards Rio Grande Village Drive. Along the way I pull over to catch shots of everyone going by me.

Sorry for the redundancy, but I figure everyone will want to see the picture of themselves.

Woodbutcher

Echo Boom

Soozy and DFW_Warrior

Calgary-Yogi

I love the natural beauty found in the area

More redundancy... Woodbutcher headed West towards the Chisos Mountains

Echo Boom

Soozy

DFW_Warrior

Calgary-Yogi in cruise mode

We decided earlier that because it was still early in the day that we'd head to the Basin for ice cream and cobbler before heading back to Terlingua. I have always liked the ride up into the Basin. My first experience was in a school bus at about 6:00am. I was there with my high school ecology club (which I joined just so I could go to Big Bend ) for spring break in 1982. The entire face of the mountain was covered in ice, including portions of the road. When the bus started sliding backwards and the driver was grinding gears, there was a lot of screaming going on... He saved it and we made it into the Basin, but that was an experience I care not to repeat We spent the rest of the week exploring, hiking, riding horses to the South Rim, and generally freezing to death in our tents each night. After that trip, I did not return to Big Bend for over twenty years, but the feel of the place never left me. The Basin in particular left a lingering impression because it is like its own little world right smack in the middle of the desert.

When we reach the Basin road, I run on ahead to set up for pictures again.

This is on the inside of the basin, looking back up to the rim

Looking downhill through the rest of the curve

Woodbutcher

Echo Boom

Soozy

DFW_Warrior and some interloper...

Calgary-Yogi and someone that does not know how to hold their line...

Elzi and Ed had gone way ahead of us because they did not make the run out to the overlook earlier. While looking around, I spot them further down on a different switchback setup to take their own shots of everyone.

Several corners further down the road and maybe 150 feet lower...

The full view of the Basin

Another hairpin shot

Waiting for Ed and Elzi to catch up to us

Dayglo Ed

Elzi

We eventually wind up at the lodge area and find our way to the Tourist shop and restaurant. When I walk in, I notice that the restaurant is roped off like it is closed. Then I notice the sign with the hours posted, it is closed! The guy working the register in the gift shop notices the dejected look o my face and asks if I need anything, to which I reply, "ice cream". He calls to a young lady back near the restaurant area and she takes care of me I head out on the back deck to grab a picnic table and settle in. The others join me in a few minutes and the waitress says she can hook everyone up with their cobblers!

The view looking towards the "Window"

A close up...

Cobbler time

Cobbler makes life better...

It also makes some people goofy...

And happy...

The break on the deck is nice. The air is cool and dry. I am a little tired and the urge to nap is STRONG. If only I had a hammock and a place to sling it... Cobbler's gobbled, we head back to the bikes and get ready to run back to Ternlingua.

Echo Boom putting her clothes back on... don't ask...

The run back out of the Basin is fun. On the downslope DFW_Warrior decides to see if he can make it all the way down in neutral. He got close, but one little hill got him We get back to the main road and head West into the lowering sun. I set the GPS on 45mph and steadily pull away from the rest of the group. I think they are going by their speedo's which are reading about 5-6mph under. I enjoy the solitude. Realizing this is the waning hour or so of the riding for the weekend, I become reflective and just sort of get lost in the experience of soaking it all in... open... barren... BIG... old... lonely... unforgiving... subtle... deceiving... dull at first glance... brilliant upon closer inspection... inexplicably attached to something deep down inside of me. I get close to the park exit and spot the entrance sign. Having forgotten to stop for a picture earlier, I decide to grab one now and wait for the others to catch up with me.

Ed and Elzi just buzz on by when I try to wave them down... Everyone else turns around and comes back to see what's up?

Dang... Soozy's scooter is HUGE! It is hiding two bikes!

After getting our sign shots, we run the rest of the way to Terlingua. Echo Boom and Soozy run the rest of the way on pavement. Woodbutcher, DFW_Warrior, Calgary-Yogi and I take the road less traveled... Fulcher Road, which happens to cross Terlingua Creek... and has water in it We arrive at the creek to find Ed and Elzi waiting, camera in hand. I can't stand so I just lean back and toss the legs out to clear the spray as I charge across. Elzi tells me it looks like I was giving birth to a KLR THAT would hurt... After the crossing, I take the lead. The road is smooth and wide. I open up the KLR and have some fun for the last few miles before we pop out on Hwy 170 near Kathy's Kafe. I head back to camp to find a few of the others loafing around.

Rick "Trailace" and David "Cagiva549" relaxing.

We eventually wander over to Uncle's place again. Dinner tonight is BBQ!! After dinner we head up to the Front Porch for a few drinks and to visit with everyone else from the other riding groups. Later, we head back to camp. Uncle graciously donated a good bit of firewood so we had a nice fire for most of the evening in Tent City. Realizing that we were going to have to be up early to get on the road, we did not stay up too late. However... we had some new neighbors and they were obviously NOT worried about getting up early. The singing, laughing, yelling and other cavorting carried on well into the wee hours...

Sunday morning...

Up before the sun once again...

This is how my eyes feel this early in the morning

As we are getting the bikes loaded up and are breaking camp, Darren checks to make sure the obnoxious horn on his KTM 950 is still working... a few good long and loud blasts confirm everything is in order We get loaded up, shake lots of hands, and make our goodbyes. Soon we are back on the road, another great trip in the books. We reach Gary's house in West Houston just before dark. I get the KLR unloaded from the trailer, load it up with my gear, and hit the road. I decide to run the backroads home since I still have the 14 tooth sprocket mounted and don't feel like trying to keep up with freeway traffic. I finally roll into Huntsville around 10:00pm... tired and glad to be home...

Now about that foot peg...

 

[TexasShadow]

Don't ya just wish you were back there right now................



Great photos and report, Scott.
Saturday was my favorite day. I really enjoyed riding with y'all.

 

[DFW_Warrior]

Is it time to go back yet?